All Activity
- Past hour
-
Two in one day! I've had that happen once but without a navigator I've got to keep my eye peeled on "other" things while driving. Bill
-
If you do talk to sales, please ask them if Rich Solar is their new brand of choice. I believe this is the first time we've seen internals of a 2027 Oliver. If not, ask if yours was some kind of experiment? (To answer the worry you expressed above.) Clean installation, 60A SC and 3K inverter/charger are good capacity. If Rich Solar has a decent Bluetooth app, this setup may be better than hulls built with a mix of brands; Xantrex inverter, Zamp or Victron SC and Lithionics batteries. Rich Solar brand batteries too, or Lithionics? How many Ah? What make/model A/C? Did they wire your A/C so it can run unplugged, on batteries only? I imagine you also have the induction cooktop which should be wired to run on inverter when shore power is not available. Yeah, every Oliver is a Jem! 😂
-
New F-250 XLT Options Specific to Oliver Towing
Mike and Carol replied to GregCA's topic in Towing an Oliver
Welcome, Greg. As you get ready for you trailer, keep tapping in to the expertise here on the forum. We had a May pick up also, just in 2016. It’s a good time of year weatherwise. I agree with John on the 4X4. Depending on how you like to camp, it can come in handy. We’ve used ours. Your future truck sounds pretty good to me. There are some Ford drivers with the 7.3 gas engine towing their Elite II’s and they all seem to be happy. Mike -
New F-250 XLT Options Specific to Oliver Towing
GregCA replied to GregCA's topic in Towing an Oliver
Thanks for the welcome. Yes 4x4 is a must have even here in Florida. Seen plenty of full size 4x2s slip sliding at the boat ramp so figured I would need it with the Oliver even though I won't be using a boat ramp. - Today
-
New F-250 XLT Options Specific to Oliver Towing
BigTexas replied to GregCA's topic in Towing an Oliver
Welcome, I remember the excitement when I put down my deposit knowing they were building MY Oliver. Visit the forum often. It will make owning your Oliver much more enjoyable. I'm not a Ford guy so I can't comment on specifics but your list looks impressive. One comment regarding 4X4. My last truck didn't have it and I didn't think I needed it due to more maintenance and something else to go wrong. I bought my new (2024) truck off the lot so it was a compromise. I've been surprised how often 4 wheel drive has been the difference between leaving a muddy camp spot and having to spend another day waiting for the ground to dry. I'd recommend keeping that on your list. -
Hey all, new to forum. Just placed deposit for a Legacy Elite II Platnum for a May delivery so now have to upgrade my Tacoma to something more capable. Looking at custom ordering 7.3L 4x4 F-250 crewcab to build something specific to Oliver application. Currently here what I'm looking at: XLT Premium Package (adds 12" screen and 360 camara) FX4 Off-Road Package 3.73 Electronic Locking Axle Ratio 350 AMP Dual Alternator & Batteries Anything else you seasoned towers would add? I know an F-250 may be overkill especialy here in Florida, but plan on hitting the Smokies and going out west. Thanks Greg
-
This will be a good rainy day project! After 10+ years and 100K+ miles I have a few pictures….😳
- 1 reply
-
- 1
-
-
GregCA joined the community
-
Perhaps your salesperson could advise you?
-
-
I am aware that changes occur for various reasons, and that is probably more often than not a good thing. But, what I find somewhat concerning is that it seems that they may have already stop installing Rich Solar inverter/charges in the 2027 models. It would be great to know if that is indeed the case and if it is, why.
-
Two more Oliver sightings on Sunday, both on M28 while we were travelling West to Porcupine Mountain Wilderness SP. Both Olivers were traveling East, one East of Munsing, MI, and the second between Munsing, MI and Marquette, MI So far 3 on this trip.
-
I want your epic Oliver pictures. It could be beautiful landscapes, the trailer in an incredible campsite, or breath taking views. We we want to highlight all the awesome places our trailers travel! Send me an email with the photos and some information about it: Media@olivertraveltrailers.com
- 1 reply
-
- 3
-
-
A foot note about driving 3/4 ton's stiff suspension. When the truck is loaded and/or towing, the truck gives a great ride. The stiff suspension " beats you up" only when driving unloaded. As stated before, a 3/4 is lousy daily driver for two reasons. the suspension can be teeth jarring when unloaded and the turning radius 20% +/- wider. You will either compromise with a 1/2 when towing or a 3/4 ton when not loaded / not towing.
- Yesterday
-
@Chuck and Beth Oliver changes brands of components every few years, for various internal reasons I suppose. Everything from batteries, solar panels, refrigerators, controllers, furnaces, wheels, axles, AC, etc, For example, I’ve got Zamp 340W solar panels and controller, no inverter, all 12V electrical, and a small pantry instead of a microwave. Our trailers all look alike, but the components, wiring, and plumbing vary by model every few years. That’s why it’s beneficial to list your model year in your signature, easier for others to help identify and troubleshoot.
-
Thanks for the reply - Good to hear!
-
Never heard of the brand. Never seen this brand in an Oliver, though we don’t get much input from owners with brand new hulls. It’s odd that during delivery OTT made no mention of your electrical hardware. Please share pics!
-
I have 2 RichSolar mppt controllers in my barn which is off grid. They have been charging my lithium batteries for 6 years now and have operated flawlessly.
-
No, I am referring to Oliver TTs, and specifically the one we picked up on the 8th of September (hull 1735). I do not think Oliver has used RichSolar in the past, but all of the controllers are RichSolar in our build. I am wondering about the relative quality, why the switch from the past, and why RichSolar is apparently not be installed in all recent builds.
-
Glue! I knew this would happen! In my 48 years of auto repair, I only used glue once to replace the cloth on a convertible. The "rag-top" must be glued to the frame. OTT had our 2KW inverter screwed into a glued-on board. They glued a board on for the water pump and valves. My inverter, new motorized water valves and everything else I've installed is bolted into place using metal brackets. I'm not fond of Wago connectors either, less is better. Our MP2 is not quite "removable." It just has enough slack in the wires to slide it about 10" back and forth and pull it halfway out as pictured above, but it's certainly hard-wired. Removeable would be difficult as I used the MP2 dual DC buses for many connections, then AC connections in and out, plus 2 Ethernet connections (pic1). I wired most of the MP2 while it was sitting on the streetside bed platform, then fed the wires through to the EMS and AC panel, the DC ground bus and new DC +bus all under the rear dinette seat where the new charge controllers are also installed (pic2). Our Bigfoot was their Class-C model that they no longer produce. I did as much work on the Bigfoot, as I have on our Oliver and tow vehicle combined (yeah engine stuff, like change fluids, hoses and belts, suspension and steering rebuild, besides RV stuff and major electrical). I installed everything on the roof (pic3, except the skylight). I also don't like mounting hardware into fiberglass with metal or wood screws. Everything on this rooftop was mounted with 3M 4950 VHB tape, no holes drilled except for four 1/4" holes hidden under the left side panel for the solar +/- and dish cables adding just a dab of Dicor on each 1/4" hole. The "Professional Installer" would have added some big junction box, drilled some 30 screw holes and emptied the whole tube of Dicor all over everything! 🤣 Times sure have changed. Six years ago I installed a new Dish. Last year I removed the Dish from our Oliver! Six years ago, I purchased 3 new AGM batteries, now we have 3 new LiFePO4 batteries. You can also see I have experience installing Furrion A/C units twice, but they didn't have the amazing Chill Cube back then! I love that the Oliver doesn't need oil changes and other work that RVs need and trailers do not. Trailer maintenance is easy-peasy! 😎
-
Our LE2 came equipped with a xantrex inverter, and Victron solar charge controller. No DC-DC. Maybe I am not understanding the question , maybe you are referring to SOB trailers and not prior Oliver model years. I haven’t heard of Rich components, but I also haven’t been in the market for a trailer for the last several years.
-
I too made the migration from a 1/2 ton truck to 3/4 ton for the reasons of more power and payload. What's the saying, "Buy the right tool once, buy the wrong tool twice". The Oliver is very obedient behind anything (within reason) you tow with. You just might be finding that you want more. However, I may be the contrarian when it comes to hating on the Anderson hitch. It made hooking up easier. I would place the ball about two inches behind the bulldog coupler, attach the whale tale (with chains attached) then lower the coupler onto the ball. Pull forward and the chains would pull the ball and coupler into alignment and the ball would drop in with a reassuring clunk. These days without the Anderson, I seem to spend much more time maneuvering the ball under the coupler to get it to drop in. And I have a camera looking right down on it! 🫤
-
I too just upgraded from a 2020 RAM 1500 Limited with RAM airbags to a 2024 Ford F-250 FX4 Lariat with stock springs. I'm not in love with the comfort level for the F-250, that's for sure, compared to having RAM Air, but I needed the payload. We really can't have both TOTAL comfort and payload. For those who have never driven a RAM 1500 Limited with RAM Airbags, it really is comfort. I also no longer run with the Andersen Weight Distribution Hitch (WDH) and I don't miss it at all. I switched over to the Shocker Hitch with the riser ball mount option to ensure trailer is completely level while towing. It does make a huge difference on both truck and trailer when hitting bumps, having the Shocker hitch. I also like doing really tight U-turns when needed, can't quite do that safely with the Andersen WDT nor with a storage box on the front of the trailer. I'll never have one of those either. I will also be adding a cap to the truck soon adding even more weight to my truck since I also have a DECKED drawer system full of tools and goodies. With the cap I will be carrying more common parts I seem to need on the road to help folks.
-
Just curious, does anyone know if any trailers other than our 2027 Elite II Platinum, Hull# 1735 was built with all Rich Solar controllers (Inverter/Charger, Solar Charger, and Dc-Dc Charger). It seems Xantrex Inverters were installed in the past and may also be what is installed now in most builds. I am not sure about the other components.
- Last week
-
Thanks for sharing your Bigfoot camper information. We owned a 2006 Bigfoot 21RB for 18 years and sold it a few months ago. I installed solar panels, an inverter, and a battery upgrade back in 2008 after buying it used—photo of me working on that install is below. We purchased this Oliver used in June of this year, so RV solar isn’t new territory for me. Right now, the biggest challenge is simply the physical layout and mounting of all the components. Fortunately, I’ve been a woodworking hobbyist since I was a kid, and HDPE Boat Board machines just like wood, so all my shop tools are perfect for this project. After learning from nearly every mounting‑related post on this forum, I will definitely be installing the inverter on a pedestal. Below is a photo of the original Xantrex mounting board, which looks similar to what others have posted. Oliver’s glue works when the board is pressed firmly into the fiberglass, but like many have experienced, mine wasn’t—and it had broken loose by the time I bought the trailer. Initially, I wasn’t planning to upgrade my Xantrex 3000‑watt inverter, but since it needed a complete remount, it made sense to upgrade to the MP2 now. I’ll make the inverter removable (very good suggestion) so the gray‑tank waste valve can still be replaced if needed. I also purchased Wago pluggable connectors for the two AC lines, which will make disconnecting the inverter much easier. I’ll be installing components under the dinette seat as well. Oliver glued a panel there to hold the surge‑protection hardware. That board is solid and can’t realistically be removed, so I had to come up with a clever way to integrate it into a larger mounting panel. Much more to come in a new thread once the project is complete.
-
Shower pan drain line coupling disconnected p-trap
topgun2 replied to Gorby's topic in Welcome to the Oliver Forums
Gorby - Are you asking a question? or making a statement? or something else? Bill
