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Sorry about that - I should have checked before I opened my mouth 😵‍💫. Or, I should read better in that you were referring to the Missouri River - NOT the State. In any case - While I too live in a fairly "rural" area it is not quite as "out there" as you are. If it helps (I really doubt this) I too have had "issues" with deliveries. Just this past week a new pair of hiking boots that were supposed to be delivered in 3 to 5 days actually took almost three weeks! Of course I agree with you in that the rural lifestyle does have its advantages - the bear walking through the yard this morning and the bobcat last week. Heck, I was stopped at a traffic light the other day as the 4th vehicle back and complained that we now have "traffic jams"! Bill

Bill, if we lived in "Missoura", we might have the part in a day or two... However, we are in West Central North Dakota,,, when I track orders, usually it is "UPS", it may say "out for delivery" for a couple of days until it arrives. Not to say the rural lifestyle does not have its advantages. Our nearest (one i have had the best luck with) RV service center is about 360+mi & 6hrs R/T. However, a google search now shows an RV service center in Williston ND. Tomorrow when they open, and if they have the part... i will head north 90 miles r/t to buy it, and while there evaluate their Service Center. B~Out

Thanks @topgun2, didn’t think of a service request but I’m not sure there’s much so solve other than a different solution, it’s just a design decision It’s entirely possible this is just me and others are happy with the speakers; I put the post up to see if that’s the case. Please chime in if you like it. I had heard they originally went with this from owner feedback so its probably just me. On the technical issues … On the LED’s they can be disabled via a button according to the manual, which is for a somewhat different model. This model doesn’t have that button. On the lip sync lag you can set a bluetooth delay in the TV to a negative value. However the sync is fine for the built in apps, it’s just external HDMI. So I’d need to switch it back and forth.

Grok gave these Here’s a list of mobile RV techs and repair services in Florida. These provide on-site repairs, maintenance, and service at your location (home, campground, etc.). Coverage varies by region, so contact them to confirm availability in your area. dandlmobilervrepair.com Central Florida (Orlando, Lakeland, Tampa, etc.) Florida Mobile RV — Central Florida focus, 30+ years experience, insurance/warranty work, full repairs. floridamobilerv.com Interstate Mobile RV Service, LLC — Orlando area (including Clermont, Kissimmee), certified techs, maintenance, holding tank cleaning, AC, plumbing, electrical. Phone: 407-861-6380. imrvs.net Matt's Mobile RV Repair — Based in Lakeland, serves Central Florida (Tampa to Orlando to Zephyrhills). Veteran-owned, NRVTA certified. mattsmobilervrepairfl.com D & L Mobile RV Repair — West Central Florida (Bradenton, Brandon, Clearwater, Lakeland, Largo, etc.). Phone: 813-340-4391. dandlmobilervrepair.com Speedy Mobile RV Repair — Tampa Bay metro and surrounding areas, full range of repairs and maintenance. speedymobilervrepair.com Happy Camper RV Repair / Mobile RV Tech — Zephyrhills area, licensed for LP gas, etc. Phone: 813-485-4103. happycampermobilervtech.com North/Central North Florida (Gainesville, Ocala, etc.) Honest RV Mobile Repair — Gainesville, Alachua, High Springs, Newberry, Ocala, and north central Florida. RVTI/RVTA certified, licensed, insured. honestrvrepair.com MobilePro RV Service & Repair — Gainesville area, 20+ years experience, works with RV parks. mobileprorvrepair.com Southwest Florida First Responder Mobile RV Repair — Southwest Florida, veteran-owned. firstrespondermobilervrepair.com Action Mobile RV Repair — Southwest Florida, on-site maintenance. actionmobilervrepair.com Other Areas Shaffer's Certified Mobile RV Service, LLC — Sarasota, Bradenton, Venice, St. Petersburg, Clearwater, and surrounding counties. RVTI certified, LP Master Qualifier. scmobilerv.com JCRVs Mobile RV — Minneola, Winter Garden, Clermont area. Repairs, renovations. Phone: 352-207-6056. thejcrv.com Open Road RV Repair (Camper-Repair.com) — Central and Southern Florida (Jacksonville, Orlando, Miami, Fort Lauderdale, West Palm Beach, etc.). Certified, insured. Phone: 1-800-708-1976. camper-repair.com A1 RV Repair — Statewide mobile techs across every county in Florida. Phone: 866-623-1340. a1rvrepair.com Additional Resources RVHelp.com — Directory with vetted mobile techs in specific Florida cities (e.g., Old Town, Florida City). rvhelp.com Check Yelp for local reviews in cities like Orlando or Spring Hill. yelp.com Tips: Verify licensing (especially for LP gas work in Florida), insurance, and certifications (e.g., RVIA, NRVTA, RVTI). Ask about service radius, common repairs (AC, roofs, slides, plumbing are frequent in FL), and availability. Many are independent or small teams—reviews and references help. If you specify your city or region in Florida (e.g., Miami, Panhandle, Tampa), I can refine this list further!

Gemini gave me this.. Florida has a wide network of mobile RV technicians covering everything from the Panhandle to South Florida. These services are particularly useful for on-site repairs at campgrounds or homes, avoiding the need for towing. Central Florida Reliable RV Inspections & Mobile Repair 4.9 📍 Car repair and maintenance service Closed· Opens 8:00 AM Mon Reliable RV Inspections & Mobile Repair Click to open side panel for more information serves the Leesburg and larger Central Florida area. Known for high-quality inspections and mobile repairs, particularly for A/C units and electrical issues. Reviewers frequently mention their professional diagnostics and prompt communication. They offer a range of services from regular maintenance to emergency breakdown assistance. Northern Florida & Gainesville Area Honest RV Mobile Repair 4.9 📍 Car repair and maintenance service Honest RV Mobile Repair Click to open side panel for more information provides service throughout Gainesville, Alachua, and High Springs. This family and veteran-owned business specializes in complex diagnostics, including slide-out repairs and solar installations. Customers highlight their transparency regarding pricing and the technician's ability to explain mechanical issues clearly. They are fully certified and insured for on-site residential and campsite work. Florida Panhandle A&D Repairs LLC 4.3 🔧 Car repair and maintenance service Closed· Opens 8:00 AM Mon A&D Repairs LLC Click to open side panel for more information is located in Panama City and handles heavy-duty vehicle and RV repairs. They are a strong choice for mechanical and chassis issues, including diesel engine and transmission work. Their mobile service includes roadside assistance for jumpstarts, fuel delivery, and tire repairs. They utilize industry-grade diagnostic equipment on-site to assess repair needs quickly. Gulf Coast & Southwest Florida Alpha Side RV Services 5.0 📍 Car repair and maintenance service Closed· Opens 12:00 AM Mon Alpha Side RV Services Click to open side panel for more information operates out of the Sarasota area with a focus on comprehensive mobile care. They are available for a wide variety of repairs, including plumbing, electrical systems, and general maintenance. Reviewers appreciate their 24-hour availability for most of the week, making them a reliable option for urgent needs. The service is fully mobile, traveling directly to your parked location. South Central Florida Taylor’s Mobile RV Repair LLC 5.0 📍 Car repair and maintenance service Closed· Opens 8:00 AM Mon Taylor’s Mobile RV Repair LLC Click to open side panel for more information serves the Bartow and Lakeland regions. They specialize in full-service mobile repair, including appliance fixes and system troubleshooting. Customers often note their punctuality and efficiency in completing repairs on-site. They maintain a high rating for customer satisfaction across various types of RV rigs. Are you looking for a technician in a specific city, or do you need help with a particular type of repair like solar or A/C?

So noted. Thank you for that.

I guess that it does "pay" to read those manuals? What? Y'all ain't got no Pony Express over there in Missoura? 😇 Bill

Have you submitted a Service Ticket? If not, how is Oliver supposed to know of your problems with it? Perhaps they can help and even if they can't help, they have valuable input. I also dislike the number of LED's in my Ollie. However, other than a playing card a much more elegant solution for those of us who are a bit light sensitive is to use something like THIS. Again - see my first point above. Its hard to believe that there isn't a fairly simple way to change this function. Again - a Service Ticket is your highway to (possible) solution. Finally - Perhaps you have not read THIS POST on the Forum. Please note the 8th post down from the top of page three in this thread where Oliver has sent an "Open Letter" to owners-members of the Forum. Of special note is the 7th (last) paragraph of the letter. Bill

CG Detailing the ‘27, closeup of some external details. The solar awnings wiring just goes through a cut in panel in the roof valley https://youtube.com/piIq8nEy4eY

White like the original cream colored ones. But they started to get pin holes in them so Jason sent me a whole new set of white ones. Love those blinds!!!!! They really do black out!

I hate this thing, it’s the one thing in this trailer I don’t like. Problems with it … Oliver has the wrong manual in the University Lots of dumb LED’s. First is the power light right over the curbside head of the bed, I stuck a playing card over it It does a bunch of dumb color changing out of the speakers while it plays (I can’t see anything in the manual on how to turn it off, if the manual is similar enough) DVD input has a terrible lib sync lag - it’s awful, unusable It has to be manually turned on and off When it comes on it makes this stupid “bwooowaaaooom” sound I see they have it for 2027, from a ‘26 owner, don’t, just don’t. The idea I heard is you can connect to this from your phone or whatever and bring it outside. Why? If somebody really wants that they can get their own speaker. On my project list is to upgrade this. I’m thinking a simple two speaker system - right behind TV. Hardwired - no lag.

I was able to remove the valve assembly and examined it. This is before i found the following in a Dometic Manual i had "IMPORTANT: Toilet warranty does not cover freeze-damaged water valve The Dometic 310 and 320 series toilet warranty expressly excludes coverage for any damages to the toilet or vehicle that may occur as a result of improper winterization of the toilet. An indicator of improper winterization is freeze damage to the water valve which results in leaks. Dometic 310 and 320 series toilet water valves exceed maximum water pressure as defined by North American plumbing code agencies. However, if trapped water freezes in piping that supplies water to the toilet, it expands and creates extremely high pressure that can damage the valve (see photo). To avoid this, winterize the toilet as described in this manual. If freeze-damage occurs as a result of improper winterization, replace the water valve with a 300/310/320 toilet water valve kit, part number 385311641. IF WATER VALVE IS RETURNED FOR WARRANTY CLAIM, DOMETIC RESERVES THE RIGHT TO DENY CLAIM IF PROBLEM IS CAUSED BY FREEZE DAMAGE. " Unquote... Fig. 6 A – Freeze Damage Indicator Window: white stress marks indicate freeze damage B – Water valve damage due to severe exposure to below-freezing temperature" a 1/4" Nut-driver works just as good as a 1/4" socket on removing the screw from the back (refer to video). this looks like it may be the issue, just not as bad, before i reinserted the flush valve. so i believe we have freeze damage to our flush valve. I'll try to source locally before ordering off AMZN, as it will travel by steamship up the Missouri, then by train, stagecoach, and finally by "Dray" Delivery. There is no AMZN Next or One or Two-day up here. but they are more than willing to charge you for it.

Just completed my 3k lube. A couple of the farthest out zerks wouldn’t take grease but I got the helpful tip to jack the trailer up. Did so and they took grease no problem. Couple extra tips Zerk covers can be useful to remind you which have been greased. For example I went over the trailer, and replaced the covers on the finished ones. Then later when I got a chance to jack the trailer the uncovered ones were the ones that needed doing, and they got covered when finished. Here’s a super handy collapsable stool to work on these, so small you can take it with you Several ways to attack the fittings. For me the stock straight zerks plus a right angle grease fitting worked perfect, no need for angled nipples or lock on port Have plenty of shop towels on hand Question: any thoughts if the grease only seems to come out to the gap nearest the nipple, can we trust that it’s making it through the rest of the bolt?

It appears as though I have some issues with my winterizing skills. That said we are chasing leaks, currently, this one out of the back of a Dometic (310/311, does the model number make a difference) for the "Water Valve Kit". The leak is coming out of the back of the "Water Valve Kit", just a slight dribble, but enough to be worrisome whilst spilling onto the shower floor. I watched the video provided by Craig and "I can do that!!!" I would like to remove the valve and examine it, to see if something on it is cracked or worse yet further up in the toilet. I am going to see if it can be found locally, if not the AMZN...

At your local Walmart for $10, I've been using Super Clean for years. Use it full strength on greasy parts. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Clean-Tough-Task-Cleaner-Degreaser-1-Gallon-128-Fluid-Ounces/23752162/ But if you really want to clean greasy/grimy parts, you would not believe how a Go-Jo style mechanics hand soap cleans parts! Rub on patiently with a soft brush (toothbrush and/or larger brushes), then hose off and blow with compressed air! I've used this in many restoration projects. Can't beat the price on this item too and check how clean these parts came out! 😎 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Purple-Power-Heavy-Duty-Creme-Hand-Cleaner-14-oz/345407987/

I have revised the original post to add a full brake inspection (see step #8 above).

That's for sure, Chris! All Dometic units (except a 230V/50 Hz Inverter model in non-US markets) and Truma, the Atmos/Tosot and all others made through the years, the compressor goes ON & Off and you hear it with a bang and a thump! Add a Soft-Start and then they take 3-5 minutes ferbling around to finally start cooling!

The NOCO went up quite a bit! Mine was $86 two years ago. The new GENPRO model is now $123. The link I posted above was not working. I edited the post above and copied it here again: https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENPRO10X1-Waterproof-Maintainer-Desulfator/dp/B08G3M697M/ I also got a couple of these for the tow vehicle (and my Goldwing) to connect the charger without "popping the hood" or on the motorcycle, without removing side covers. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LWWNLC?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1 On a budget, the one Bill showed should do the trick. On Bill's suggestion, I would go that way, $45 for a 20A charger is much more reasonable.

To keep it looking new I’d just add doing a deep clean to the wheel and suspension. Wash, use the Duragloss aluminum cleaner and I recommend Griots SiO2 tire sealer. Looking for a good cleaner for the grease and dirt. Just using elbow grease for now

When I purchased my two LiTime lithium batteries I also read about charging to 100% prior to installation. It just so happened that I "needed" an additional battery charger at the time, so, I purchased one of THESE from Amazon. As JD mentions above, I needed to charge the batteries overnight in order to get to the 100% and the charger worked perfectly. For general battery charging (i.e. regular battery maintenance on the vehicles that are not driven enough) I prefer NOCO battery chargers. But, they are generally more expensive and charge at lower amps. Bill

Here’s the recent settings chart. My low voltage cutoff was set incorrectly from the factory at 11.3. When I set it to 12.3 I got less simultaneous use but presumably it’s stressing the batteries less Inverter_Charger Settings.pdf

I don't see any reason as to why most companies continue to manufacture standard single speed compressor AC units when inverter tech is so freely available. The prices are comparable and the power requirements are 50% or less. Makes no sense to me...

Thank you, Bob! LOL, you and I both, have "done many vehicles over my years!" I've done 3 brake jobs this year alone and I want to quit having to do brake jobs around here, OMG! 🤣 Removing the drum is very easy on the Nev-R Lube axles, and no red grease mess! It's just not something to do when less than one year old with 3600 miles, as in my case. I will likely do so at 3rd inspection. Your question is a good one though, a GREAT addition to this post and soon I'll add this step to the above procedure. 😎 Remove the bearing cap, the small outer circlip and spindle nut is all it takes (more info in post linked below). One trick is retorquing the spindle nut afterwards. I got confirmation from Dexter (via Lew at Alcan), that these spindle nuts can be reused (should replace after 2-3 uses). To retorque, I would mount the wheel, lower the tire touching the ground and torque to 155 ft-lb (remove wheel again if you mount center caps). Then replace the circlip and dust cap and that's all there is to it.

Looks pretty good to me, Combines both the greasing wet bolts and physical inspection of operations and rough cleaning without remove the drums. I have never removed a drum with sealed bearings, I have done many vehicles over my years that have the old style tappered bearing. How easy is it to pull the drums of the Never-lube bearings (sealed bearings)? Even if everything looks good physically at some point the drum needs to be removed to check wear of drum and brake shoes. The nice thing with normal vehicles that have sealed bearing they have brake calipers, pads and rotors, being able to check everything with external inspections.

Bob, IMHO this is unnecessary. I assume your Oliver converter (charger) is setup or will be reprogrammed for LiFePO4 batteries with Epoch charging specs. Just install them (they come at 50% SOC), plug in and charge overnight to 100%. Want a portable charger for all battery types? I got this one 2 years ago and have used it on all our vehicles when needed. Keep in mind, this is only a 10A charger. But more amps means much more money! 🤣 https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENPRO10X1-Waterproof-Maintainer-Desulfator/dp/B08G3M697M/ Our Victron Inverter/Charger can charge up to 120A. It can add 20% SOC to a 600 Ah battery bank in one hour! The 10A portable charger will take 12 hours to add the same 20%.