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I assumed when Lamar wrote this in his original post that there was a separate breaker for the induction cooktop. There truly should be, but not according to the manual that @Steve and MA found. In our hull, OTT wired the microwave to the breaker marked “Outlets.” They wired two separate hots to the breaker (outlets GFCI and microwave on separate 12/2 Romex runs). Maybe they did something similar here. I corrected our situation by connecting the microwave to a free breaker when I disabled the OEM converter for the Victron inverter/charger. The fix I suggested above just got more complicated! I would still rewire the main panel so that induction cooking is possible off-grid! @Lamar last logged in 9 hours ago. Hard to say, but the first thing he should do when connected to shore power is to run the cooktop and trip each breaker to know where in the world OTT wired their True Induction cooktop!

I take it into Hohenwald and get the entire service/maintenance package done. I did take the allen screw out and removed the lever to see if calcification had occurred or if something else was blocking the lever from being pulled forward. Couldn’t really find anything. Just have to do without the kitchen sink this trip. I also did submit a service ticket. Thank you for your reply!

Thank you for your reply. I was able to screw the female adapter onto the T connection on the water heater and had enough pex on the other side to connect it. So far it is working. Luckily Ace Hardware had everything I needed. I still can’t figure out the faucet in the kitchen area. It is weird both things going wrong on this trip especially since I had it serviced like two months ago. But I know things happen.

Just looked at the 2026 LE1 sales info. The only factory inverter option is the 2000 Watt Pro series. Also looking at the 2026 LE1 owner's manual, it shows the following for inverter equipped units: CIR #3 AIR CONDITIONER 15 AMP CIR #2 WATER HEATER 20 AMP CIR #1 INVERTER 25 AMP MAIN — 30 AMP SUB-MAIN INVERTER SUB-PANEL 25 AMP CIR #4 RECEPTACLES 15 AMP CIR #5 MICROWAVE RECEPTACLE 15 AMP Circuits #4 and #5 are on the inverter sub-panel side of the breaker box. This is just a guess, but could it be that the Cir #4 receptacles and Cir #3 air conditioner are reversed? It would be easy to test. Does the air conditioner have power when the inverter is your 120 vac source? If you try this, make sure no other circuits are in use.

I’m unhappy with the outdoor shower. The knobs are hard to get to, the line is short and the control handle is clumsy with the ‘stay on’ option. I want something that I can attach hoses to wash the bugs off the truck and camper. I’ve looked into something more extensive - there are ones that include quick hose disconnects, but I won’t do anything that drastic this year or maybe never. And anyhow I’m not happy with any of them. OK, can I adapt the existing solution? 304 Stainless steel garden hose Adapter Bathroom shower tube to garden hose adapter, 3/4" GHT male to 1/2" G (1/2"IPS) male, lead-free, shower to garden hose adapter This just test fitting, I recommend using teflon tape. Shown is the adapter and my favorite Blutech quick adapter … so that I can attach a Real Man’s spray head 😅 But what about more length? Now that it’s hooked into my quick adapter system easy peasy Shown with a short hose, I can hook any of my hoses into this. This is a concept test but it works and I love it. To be decided is how to prevent the hose from disappearing in the hole. Most likely I’ll put a proper reverse fitting and quick connect on the existing sprayer so that’s the default setup. But it then can be quickly removed and reconfigured for whatever I’m trying to do. TBD …

The macerator isn’t relevant, I chose this one because it’s made for this purpose and has a sewer line adapter built in. Cost isn’t a consideration for me but obviously you can do it any way you wish These are all 12V except for the floor lights which are 24, they can be converted to 12V easily and I’m considering it. I prefer Hue and IMO they’re entirely suitable for mobile. The lamps are the perfect size on this trailer for example, but again it’s a free country 🙂

The pump setup seems a little overkill. Why do you need a macerator for pumping grey water? A simple 12 volt water pump can be had for under $50. As far a lighting goes I would look at GOVEE. They have 12 volt solutions and are much less expensive. Don’t get me wrong, I love HUE lights. I have them throughout my home but they aren’t really made for a mobile solution in my opinion. My .02 John

For the composters out there … what about that black tank, can we move grey to black? Experiment … Shopping list Flojet Macerator Pump 18555-000A - 12V DC Waste Pump for Camper/RV RESTMO Water Flow Meter with Brass Inlet Twinkle Star Hose Filter Attachment Line Water Hose Filter Water hose quick connects Garden hose Goal: Transfer from grey to black utilizing the black flush out inlet port. I’d rather not make more drastic changes to the trailer so let’s see if this works Attempt #1 The pump comes with a quick switch which is handy, its sitting near the Jackery. I got a 12V cig line and used the included pump battery alligator clips to attach to that. Results: Unsuccessful, the Jackery 12V kept turning off so I kept hitting the 12V switch. The flow meter showed no transfer, but water did flow. The pump was running and the orange hose did fill up with water, but it seemed there was little transfer occurring. First I tested the flow meter to see if it was working on a fresh water outlet, it’s fine so there’s just not much flow happening. OK, so I got a 120VAC-12VDC adapter I had handy and used the 120V on the Jackery (you can see the adapter there) but that was even less successful. Conclusion: Probably not enough power. Now how can I get more power into this pump? I looked at the truck, nah too much trouble and maybe not enough line. Do I have a spare battery around? How much does the 12V outlet on the truck supply? I’ve got 7kW out the back (electric truck), maybe a higher power inverter? Or how much can the Oliver 12V cig sockets output? I looked up musing on this problem, looked at the side of the trailer, and wondered “how many engineers does it take to change a lightbulb?” The answer was right there in front of me, embarrassing, the pump even comes with battery alligators …. 🤯😅 Attempt #2 Success! The flow rate seemed a little low compared to the rated GPM. I took a video and will calculate, maybe the resistance through the cleanout jets reduces it. In theory this will stress the pump, but it’s not something being used all the time and I kept an eye on how warm the pump got. Seemed fine … So I’ll take this as a viable solution. Far less space than hauling along a today. There was no solids being caught by the filter. I try to keep solids out of the grey but anyhow not an issue. Good enough for today, I closed up shop Future direction: the only problem is having a neat solution. The lines are filled with residual water you don’t want around the campsite. A bucket (I have a collapsable with lid that’ll work great), or no leak quick connects (if such a think exists) maybe too. KISS, I think I like the bucket solution better. Overall it’s a small tidy package. The whole thing can be stored in the bumper if you take the pump out of its case. But it’s a really nice case with real latches, so I keep that in the back storage and the rest of it in the bumper.

We do not know yet... - What inverter/battery setup is installed in this LEI? - Will it still work on Shore Power? (if so, then not a CGFI issue) - Error codes? If so, then the usual Xantrex settings issue, but @Lamar made no mention of a failed startup, just no power. - Is the induction cooktop wired to the inverter circuit? To be or not to be!

Sorry, missed that. This is an odd problem, to be sure. Could the cooktop be tripping overcurrent protection on the inverter? Do any error codes appear on the Xantrex display? Does the cooktop have varying power levels? Will it work on a low setting?

Your first picture is very dark, so it's hard to see how it broke and what's left there. If you have can physically connect this Sharkbite female adapter, have enough PEX on both sides that would be great. You need the PEX on both sides to be cut square with minimum 3/4" length to attach Sharkbite fittings. If there is not enough PEX on the water heater side, the broken PEX must be removed (get Sharkbite PEX removal tool to push in the collar) and a new short piece of new PEX must be added. This kind of failure is odd and at the same time your kitchen faucet is stuck!

Hey I just got it and already did a Tennessee trip this year! 😅 Anyhow still working, close to retirement so one big trip is all that can be managed

Lamar, the GFCI under the dinette should power ALL your AC outlets in line. Plug something into the outdoor outlet (or the one above the kitchen sink) and trip the GCFI under the dinette. The other AC outlets should then ALL be OFF. @topgun2 Bill suggested this in his comment. However this is NOT your main issue re your induction cooktop. If the induction cooktop is on a GFCI circuit it should be wired to an independent GCFI (not that outlet under the dinette). And if your induction cooktop works on Shore Power, then GFCI is not your issue either. I see you have a Legacy I. What inverter and battery setup do you have? I hate to think that what @Steve and MA wrote is correct in that OTT did not wire your induction cooktop to your inverter circuit. If you have the Xantrex 3000, all 120VAC circuits should be wired to it, but not so with a lesser 2K inverter. Wow, if this is the case, OTT should have installed an LP cooktop instead! You wrote that your microwave works on inverter. Given all this is true, you need to get this corrected for the long-term. (OTT wired several things in very strange ways in our hull, so I have rewired everything!) Not the right time while boondocking, but I have a short-term on-the-road fix for you! 😎 First be OFF shore power and turn your inverter OFF. This ensures there is no 120VAC in your hull, so you can safely rewire the AC power panel. You can do a quick fix in your breaker box! Do the following at you own risk (I would do it)! Remove the breaker box cover and remove the breaker labeled for your inverter. Loosen the front screw and pull the black wire free (the hot). Do the same for the microwave breaker. Replace the hot for the induction cooktop into the breaker for your microwave. Now you have induction cooking on inverter but your microwave will not be powered. You could wire both hots to the microwave breaker, if you want to use both on inverter. However if you do so, it would not be wired "to code" and you'll only want to use only ONE appliance at a time. However, if you turned both ON at the same time, the breaker would merely trip, no big deal. If it was me and I found it to be TRUE that OTT did NOT wire the induction cooktop to the inverter circuit 😒, I would get this done in 10 minutes just in time for breakfast! 🤣

What service was done?

I am Boondocking. When I turned the pump on for water, the red pex outlet pipe broke away from the connection to the hot water heater. I have attached a picture of that and attached what I bought to fix it. Was hoping someone could let me know if I am on the right track.

I do not have your type of faucet in my trailer or home. However, these faucets virtually all have a cartridge inside and it appears to me that there is something stuck inside that. I'd look at your manuals to see what cartridge it uses and how to disassemble the top of the faucet in order to get to it. Good luck! Bill

The lever on my kitchen faucet will move from side to side, but I cannot pull the lever towards the sink to allow water flow. I don’t want to force it. It worked when I winterized IMG_2389.mov the camper two months ago and I just had the camper serviced. But the kitchen faucet lever seems to be locked and will not come forward.

This suggests the inverter doesn't supply power to the induction cooktop. If that's the case, I have no idea why Oliver would wire wire it that way. I know that in older models, the Xantrex 2000 watt inverter did not power the air conditioner, but not powering an induction cooktop by design doesn't make much sense. Steve

Did you have your inverter turned on? If you're on batteries with no shore power you need the inverter on to create 120VAC electricity for the cooktop.

While the outlet itself may not be GFCI, it almost certainly is on a circuit that is GCFI controlled (i.e. is a slave off a GCFI). I'd suggest that you keep checking for another "tripped" GCFI. Bill

Ok, I started my generator and now my True Induction Stove Top works. Am I missing something?

Generally speaking -- posts like this amaze me. We have a great base of knowledge and know-how here on the forum. Thank you to @Snackchaser and all of our great forum members present and past.

Snack Chaser, thanks for the response. I found the buttons on the USB outlets. Didn’t know they were there and they all work. Good to know. All of the outlets that I can find work. There is one GFCI that I found near the floor in the forward dinette that was tripped. But after resetting it the induction stove still is not working. The one outlet outside is not GFCI. I’m going to hook into shore power again to see if by doing that the stove will turn on. I have both a generator and a 30 amp connector nearby for this morning yet. Lamar

I remember. Our little community is festooned with flags lining the streets. Let us never forget.

I see where many have viewed this thread and thus, wondering if anyone else, other than a few others, have tried using a Cielo with their unit and what the results were. It would be good to know of any success with other unit brands, especially Truma, Houghton and Dometic; or even the newer inverter style units.