ScubaRx

Very nice, very clever... I've thought about using that space for an air tank that I can store compressed air in. I had planned to make it out of some 8 inch schedule 40 PVC that I scarfed off a construction site about 30 years ago. (Packrat) You're right there is no sense in wasting space. Steve

Tali and I bought a First-Up from Wal-Mart last summer. We got the screen sides (extra) to go with it. We also bought a set of rope lights to go around the inside top. We only paid $82.00 for it. They seem to have gone up since them. Best price I've seen since is $93.00. It has worked out well for us.... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product. ... gMethod=rr

Over on the Casita Club forum a member named ronsmith100 posted some pics on 01-26 at: http://www.pbase.com/troron/oliver He took these at Quartzsite, maybe these will give you a better idea of what the 22 footer looks like.... Steve

Here's a little item I found. I really don't worry too much about someone actually hitching up the and taking her off, but if they did, having one of these on board would make finding and retreiving it a little easier.... http://www.opengpstracker.org/index.html

The 22 foot Oliver is officially in production. The first example has been completed and is at Quartzsite in AZ even as we speak... I posted a bunch of pics in the 22 foot Oliver photos thread of the first one during its final production stage.

More pics... and that's all I've got to say about that....

More pics....

More pics....

I visited the factory on 01-02-2009 to see the new 22 footer and the 17 foot sport model before they left for Quartzsite. I took a few photos.... I'll post a few at at time.

Merry Christmas to all... Steve and Tali

Yeaaaaaaaaa... Since November 10, the ability to register new members has been down due to some softwate issues. This has now been resolved, and we welcome anyone that wants to join. It's nice and friendly in here so "come on in." Steve

Very impressive, now you two are stars..... congrats and Merry Christmas... Steve and Tali

What about putting a letter, A, B, C... in front of the Hull Number to indicate the year of mfg. I.E. A=2008, B=2009, and so on....everyone's so far would be A00XX. Steve and Tali Landrum scubarx and dietgal4u 1319 Ruffwood Road Tupelo, MS 38801 662-255-0181 scubarx@comcast.net Hull Number: A0026

What about putting a letter, A, B, C... in front of the Hull Number to indicate the year of mfg. I.E. A=2008, B=2009, and so on.... So everyone's so far would be A00XX. Steve

DougI It appears that only my schedule is fixed. As I stated in the original post, I'm off April 09 thru April 15. I would not be able to attend at any other time. These dates were chosen because Larry had suggested to me that since everyone else's time is flexable that I pick the dates. Obviously, if this is not suitable with everyone else then it should suit the majority. However, Larry further says that the date has to be after the full moon due to the spawn of the bait fish that need to be caught. The moon is full April 09, so it could not be scheduled any earlier. Steve

Who's the ole crate on the front of the boat? Sounds as if we may have quite a crowd at the "Greeson Gathering", we only need one more to break the old "Owner's Rally" record set in Van Buren. Come on Paul and Sherry, you know you want to..... Steve

Hey, Larry.... That does sound like fun. Tali and I would love to be able to join you and yours for a few days. It would, of course depend on my work schedule. I will be off April 09 thru April 15. This hopefully will work out during the time that you plan to be at the lake. Let us know when you decide on the exact dates for your trip. We'd love to join you. Steve

Good photos, Larry... Just a quick addendum to the installation, add a few turns of Teflon tape to the inner threads. Make sure it does not extend past the end of the threads, it could tear off and get into the pipe-works, pump etc. This tape will keep the like-metal of the threads and the heater body from adhering to one another. Steve

I agree with you, a manual with all the tips and ideas would be great. Use what info you need and disregard the rest. I guess we could create another forum named maybe Oliver manuals. Under that we could add topics "A" thru "Z". Under each topic we could add our info. It wouldn't be in strict alpha order rather as how they were entered under each letter, but it would make searching easier. What about that, Larry? \ Steve

When is your Oliver due? I'm sure you're excited as we all were. How far do you have to drive? If you're coming near our area, feel free to let us know. Sorry, a little off topic... Steve

Tali and I decided to design our own mural for the front of the . I used a graphics program and a little computer trickery to get this image and emailed it to the fellow that does the murals for Oliver. He did the rest. He laminated the image and mailed it to us. He also did the tire cover graphic. All I had to do was to apply them to the trailer. Steve

Larry, It looks eaten up to me. That thin attachment right behind the plug is actually the core wire in the anode. Yours appears to have been eaten away right below the plug. But, on the other hand, that might not make any difference in the overall performance of it. I'd ask someone smarter than me. Steve

To add to the previous post: Blue Rhino is not only installing OPD valves, they are installing their OWN proprietary OPD valves, called Tri-Safe II valves. You can identify a TSII valve by the little triangular indentation on the side of the valve. In order to get flow IN to a TS2 valve, a magnetic key must be inserted into the indentation to hold a steel ball out of the way. A guy named Mark Sharp received a letter from Blue Rhino confirming this information. Here's the text of the letter he received: "Blue Rhino is the leader in the industry for providing the safest tanks on the market. Some, but not all of our tanks have a special safety device that prevents the refill by anyone other than a Blue Rhino specialist. They are called TS2 cylinders. The reason we designed them is simple. It's for the safety of our consumers!! We stand behind our product. We know how our cylinders are filled and that the highest level of accuracy and safety checks are performed. When our consumers take our cylinders and have them filled elsewhere, we cannot be liable or guarantee the safety of that cylinder. If your tank is not properly filled, damage to your valve can result, which can prevent it from performing properly. Our business is propane cylinder exchange. We recommend that our customers only exchange because of the safety/liability issues associated with someone else filling our tanks. However, you, as a consumer, are free to fill your cylinder if you wish. Not all of our tanks offer the special safety feature. The way to identify the special TS2 valve tanks that cannot be filled is easy. If your tank valve has a small triangular indention on the side, then it is "tamper" protected. If you prefer to have a tank that can be filled by anyone, take that tank back to any Blue Rhino retailer and exchange it for one that does not have the triangular indention. For liability reasons, if you choose to refill your tank, please remember to remove the plastic sleeve before having it refilled. I hope this information helps." Don't confuse the new OPD valves with the triangular handle with the Blue Rhino-only TS2 OPD valves, also with the triangular handle, but also the little triangular indentation on the SIDE of the valve. All Blue Rhino tanks now have OPDs and the new three-sided valve handles. (Overfill Protection Device, a float-based device inside the tank) *NOT* all Blue Rhino tanks have (yet) been retrofitted with TS2 valves. So there is a chance that you can find (or end up with by chance) a tank from Blue Rhino that is OPD and is refillable at your local propane dealer. But you need to look for the telltale TS2 indention to be sure.

Subject: brass monkey In the heyday of sailing ships, all war ships and many freighters carried iron cannons. Those cannon fired round iron cannon balls. It was necessary to keep a good supply near the cannon. But how to prevent them from rolling about the deck? The best storage method devised was a square based pyramid with one ball on top, resting on four resting on nine which rested on sixteen. Thus, a supply of thirty cannon balls could be stacked in a small area right next to the cannon. There was only one problem -- how to prevent the bottom layer from sliding/rolling from under the others. The solution was a metal plate called a "Monkey" with sixteen round indentations. But, if this plate was made of iron, the iron balls would quickly rust to it. The solution to the rusting problem was to make "Brass Monkeys." Few landlubbers realize that brass contracts much more and much faster than iron when chilled. Consequently, when the temperature dropped too far, the brass indentations would shrink so much that the iron cannon balls would come right off the monkey. Thus, it was quite literally, "Cold enough to freeze the balls off a brass monkey!" Actually this tale is probably not true, but it makes an interesting story.

Good idea, Tom. I'm at work right now and can't get into it as well as I'd like. I need to talk to some other people I know to form some definite thoughts. I will take your advice and begin a new thread. Give me a day or so and I'll have some concrete ideas we can throw around. Thanks, Steve