ScubaRx

I'll take my piece hot with a large scoop of vanilla ice cream on top.

Based on the age of your trailer I suspect that you actually have an inverter/charger (I/C) rather than just an inverter. If so, that switch kills the power going back and forth between the batteries and the I/C. In one direction the current is supplying battery power to the I/C to be changed into 120VAC for the coach. In the other direction the current is supplying 12VDC to charge the batteries. You would want to turn this switch off while doing any maintenance such as unbolting cables or changing fuses. Also if you want to stop the batteries from being charged, you would turn this switch off.

I'm starting to feel sorry for that horse. Yes, I do know he's allegedly already dead.

There has been some unintentional misinformation posted in this thread about the 5-leaf Alcan Spring that is being sold to Oliver owners for retrofittiing. That being the weight rating of the spring packs. I've seen ratings posted varying from 2000 to 2400 pounds. During multiple conversations with Alcan Spring in Colorado, the owner Lew Weldon, has stated that the correct weight rating is 2750 pounds per spring for a total of 11,000 pounds. They supply exactly the same spring for both the 3500 pound and the 5200 pound axles, the only difference being the U-Bolts provided which is based on the diameter of the axle itself. The GVWR of both the Oliver Elite's is calculated using the weight ratings of the axles and the spring packs. The final rating is based on the weaker of the two. For those owners that have the 3500 pound axles, the installation of these heavier springs will not affect your GVWR of 7000 pounds. For those owners that either already have or have switched to the 5200 pound Nev-R-Lube axles you would now effectively have a GVWR of 10,400 pounds upon the installation of these heavier springs.

Teaser Alert, I’ve got some new info about the Alcan Springs.

And BTW, There are three Oliver dealers in Georgia. All of them are closer to you than Hohenwald so you should be really happy you don’t have to make a long trip.

John, apparently you’ve not been on the forum or FB in the past month or better. Oliver made the announcement about service in Hohenwald being phased out several several weeks ago. By now it’s pretty old news. Perhaps you should come to the Rally and lead the charge.

@John Dorrer posted this on FB this past Friday and I responded to it soon afterward. My advice to everyone...buy yourself four real chocks. After parking, put one behind each rear tire and one in front of each front tire OR on both sides of the single axle tires. Kick them hard into place, up snugly against the tires. DO NOT ever place them only on one side. Raise the hitch off the ball BEFORE unhooking the safety chains. Unless you've accidentally parked on a sixty degree slope, the trailer should not move at all. Finish unhooking trailer and move the tow vehicle. Level front to rear with the 3000 pound capacity front jack. After placing at least six inches of blocking under each, level side to side with either of the 3000 pound capacity rear jacks. Your trailer will not move with these chocks. Yeah, I know they're from HF and they spell like a tire factory, but they're inexpensive, they work and I challenge you to be able to make that trailer move with these chocks properly set. Don't believe me? Try driving off after forgetting to remove them. I do not care for the Andersen Levelers. They're too expensive for what they do, they're useless (and never intended to be used) as chocks and they will skid around on concrete.

They will install them in Grand Junction. Shop rate = $125/hr. About two hours.

You're overdue for your followup exam. See you at the Rally..

As early as April, 2015 they were molding wire chases into the upper inside hull to run the wiring down between the hulls to the rear attic space. I shot these photos on 04-29-2015. The above shot shows the rear of the hull. The upper attic door will be cut here. This photo shows where the wires would go through the outer hull and into the wiring chase toward the front of the trailer This photo shows where the wire chase starts. This photo is looking from the front towards the rear of the trailer. I don't know if these will help. At one time there were some little dimples in the top of the outer hull to show where that wire chase terminated. X marked the spot on the inner hull in photos #2 and #3.

Considering that they created their website in 2021, haven't updated it since and weren't even planning to make this product available until Q3, 2024, I'd say not too good, if at all.

Aluminum tubing is not measured like steel tubing. Two inches ID or OD is EXACTLY two inches. They WILL NOT slide into each other. You will need to mill 1/32" off each face of the male tube to make it fit. Even then, if the receivers are not perfectly parallel, the cross member will still not go in very easily. I solved that problem by over sizing the four bolt holes for the receivers and used nylock nuts left very slightly loose. There's just enough play to make them go in, a little spray lub won't hurt.

I agree that that is a much better Hitch Receiver but he would still have to have the crossbar to mount it on.

It's not standard and free, you would have had to specified wanting it in the original order. I'm sure you can still buy it, but you will have to drill four vertical, perfectly spaced holes down through the back end of the frame rails to mount the two receivers.

I'd just sandwich the cross member with a larger secondary backing plate in between and below with proper hole spacing for the hitch and throuth bolt the whole thing. It would be stronger than the above arraignment and solve the problem of the mis-aligned holes.

My door will close with either valve open.

What pattern do you detect?

Here is a thread I posted back in 2017 about some mods I had done to the Outlaw Oliver. One of them concerns a rear basket I made to carry chairs and lighter, bulky stuff.

There’s nothing inherently wrong with using the rear jacks as levelers. In the early days, that was one of the of their main selling points. Then the lawyers got involved. The rear jacks are exactly the same as the front jack. Do you use the front jack to lift the trailer?

That solution has been over four years in the making but will be on the market in the next month or so. Keep watching.

Who knows why there are 700 foot sand dunes in South Central Colorado?

The panels on the earlier models were more narrow than the ones they currently use. The newer panels have more watts than the older ones. I’ve not had the opportunity to examine the new mounting brackets, but judging from what I can see in your photos there is no way for those panels to tilt.

This thread is locked per OP request.

Unfortunately, there isn't and never was any schematic drawings of electrical and plumbing systems for the years 2007-2009. Likewise for the twenty-one 2014 models and the thirty-seven 2015's. Somewhere during the 2015-2016 period they had a company come in and design a wiring harness for the Elite II's. They bought them from that company at first and then started making their own. I remember meeting one of their interns during this period and he was working on both a wiring and plumbing schematic. I saw them on a computer screen in the supervisor's office out on the factory floor. So at least at some point there was that. At one point they provided them when when you bought a trailer. And then they didn't. I've never been able to get a straight answer from anybody at the factory as to why they no longer share them. I do know that one member has copies of whatever is (or has been) out there. I don't know what year trailer his copies reference. I suspect that they would be of little help to the folks that have a trailer less than 3-4 years old. I won't out him but I do know that he as shared freely in the past with other owners. If he sees this he'll probably reach out.