ScubaRx

Yes, 16 inch wheels will fit onto our Olivers. After our sojourn to California last fall, I was really disappointed with the performance of the tires that Oliver had supplied at the 5200 pound axle upgrade. In only 6000 miles, the curb side tire had worn considerably on the outside. I called the factory with these concerns stating that I felt as if the tires were not heavy duty enough to handle our (very) heavy Oliver. I wanted to get away from the ST tires and get a heavier duty light truck tire but was unable to find one in a 15 inch size. They agreed with the use of the LT's and suggested I go to a 16 inch wheel which would open up a whole new field of possibilities. Since I had hated the wheels that they used with the upgrade from the first day, this gave me an opportunity to also get back the wheels that I wanted. We have a local tire store here in Tupelo that has been in business since 1956. These guys know more about tires than any of us ever will. One of the employees is an old friend and has worked there about 30 years so I asked his advice. He took me back into the warehouse and showed me several different tires explaining the load characteristics of each. I chose the Savero HT Plus, LT 225/75 R16 in blackwall. Each tire is rated for 2680 pounds at 80 psi. It is a 10 ply load range E with a tread-wear rating of 460. We've only put abut 2000 miles on them so far so the jury is still out on their wear profile. I know that at 2000 miles on the previous tires I was concerned that I was seeing the beginnings of problems. They added about an inch to the overall height of the trailer bringing our needed clearance to over nine and a half feet.

We've not noticed any leakage around our windows, but thanks for bringing this to everyone's attention. I went out and looked at the way the windows are actually mounted. The outside frame is virtually flush with the outside shell. It is neatly caulked all the way around. As you mentioned, there are four weep holes at the bottom of each of the smaller windows (there may be more on the larger window, I didn't look). Due to the slope of the upper body of the Oliver, the windows extend further out at the bottom than at the top. Even in a gentle rain this would easily allow water to accumulate in the channel at the bottom of the window. In a hard, blowing storm the amount of water that could end up in the channel would undoubtedly be considerable. Because of this slope, any water in the channel at the bottom of the window would actually flow toward the inside of the coach. Did you see exactly where the water was running from (and down the inside?) From your description, I gather the channel was overflowing (to the inside) from simply too much water and as such overwhelming the (upstream) weep holes. If that be the case, the only solution I can see is to stay out of the rain. Just kidding... although I did find this link to the Hehr service manuals, maybe there's something in there that will help

We're currently at home and at work. We'll be leaving for the Smokies in about a week. Then, in October, over to North Carolina to the Woolly Worm Festival with a group of Oliver friends. Hope to see you soon.

At least right now, Tali and I are planning a trip to the Outer Banks around the middle of September. We don't have a really firm itinerary at this time. We will be leaving here sometime on the 17th. We’ve planned this trip before and always decided at the last minute to go somewhere else. I believe we’ll follow thru this time. If anyone will be in that area during that time it would be nice to be able to get together. If interested let us know....

Are you using an external HD? Also how is the monitor mounted to the back wall? Did you do the mounting or was there a back plate installed at the factory during assembly? This is a very nice looking install.

We never turn the fridge off, ever. Done it like that for years and it runs fine. We've done the same thing for the past two years we've owned the . We were advised to do that by a service tech that did a seminar at one of the rally's we went to in the first few months of our ownership. Likewise, we've not had any problems.

Probably what I would use (if I understand what you want to do) is aluminum flashing. A quick Google brought up plenty of examples. Such as: http://www.amazon.com/Amerimax-68320-20 ... B000H5OEB4 You can usually find this material at a local level and I wouldn't think you'd need to order it. It is easily cut with a pair of heavy scissors and readily bends to the shape you want. I have a roll I keep to make all kinds of things with. I wish I'd thought about lining the tops of our cabinet areas with it I installed the lights in there. Maybe this will give you some ideas toward what you need...

A few quick thoughts: To get from the tongue to the bench storage, you have to get around the bathroom and its associated plumbing. My recommendation would be to see if this is even possible before you go ahead with your plans as it may not be. I'm not sure that I think that moving the batteries is a grand idea, but gaining access to this area is relatively easy to do. First you have to remove the insert below the sink in the bathroom. Just cut around it with a utility knife and it will pull out. Be careful of the wires going to the switch that is mounted in the insert. Then you will have to use some sort of caulk to put it back. Once out, you can get to where all the wiring enters the shell. Now admittedly I've only done it with 12 gauge wire and not the monster cables that would be required to re-route the batteries but you snake the cables under the the toilet area (i.e. nightmare ) I can see many potential difficulties and much expense here. I'd consider a small generator. Steve

Do NOT confuse the Oregon Gathering with the NOG. The NOG, is the Northern Oregon Gathering and is held in the spring and fall. The OREGON GATHERING is in Bandon, along the SOUTHERN Oregon coast in JULY. I knew you knew this, just wanted to clear the air for the less initiated. Thank you 12ladyblue for helping us uninitiated folks. I'd been trying to figure out what the hey a NOG was for the past week. Really wish there was some way Tali and I could be there, we came to California this past October, gone about 3 weeks. That's a loooong way from Mississippi. Have fun and post some pics for all us that are stuck at home.

Chris, My guess is that there is a backing plate on the other side of the fiberglass. Both the old rivets have to be knocked out of their holes. If you did both of them at the same time, I would expect that the backing plate would fall (maybe not, it could be glued in place.) In order to not take that chance, I would replace the rivets one at a time. They will have to be drilled out. I would use the smallest drill that will still do the job so as to try to not make the old holes any bigger. Then re-rivet the hook back into those holes. Where are you guys currently?

Chris, Fixing the water inlet problem should be easy after finding the right parts/tools. As far as the hex wrench problem goes, if you can't find a half inch allen wrench, just use a hex-head bolt that fits into the opening and a pair of vice grips to turn it with. Crude, but it will work. I googled and found several things that might work if you can't get an original from the factory. http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/in ... 2110&frm=g (probably a good match) http://www.outerbanksoutfitters.com/pro ... 818549.htm (looks the same--more money) Hope this helps, Steve

Thanks for the kind words Angler. I'm currently at work so I won't be able to look at the panel until later. I know the wire you're talking about. I've spliced into it in the past to get a ground for some mods that I installed in that area. That said, I would have to assume mine is grounded somewhere, else my mods would not have worked. If I recall, my thought at the time was that the yellow wire was the ground for the panel itself.

Does your bathroom exhaust fan run? The same switch beside the entrance door feeds power to both fans (Ours is labeled Accessory.)

Sherry, I've never seen that one. You were probably wise not to go there. Steve

Tali and I had a great time at the 2010 Jugfest. It's kinda sad too. Now with Larry and Betty's Oliver gone as well as Chuck and Jeri's, it may be that there will never be 5 Olivers in one place at the same time again. Maybe we can do it again this October in North Carolina. I hope so.

It's unlikely many people will have to do this mod. From the day we picked up our trailer the right to left opening closet door was one feature that really bothered me. I wondered what great thinker had decided that was the proper way to install it. It was only after I met several other Oliver owners that I realized theirs was not installed like mine. I reversed mine a year or so ago although I didn't find it as easy as yours apparently was. I had to modify a couple of the frame pieces to fit into the reversed position. I agree that it was a most helpful modification. When I was at the factory looking at the first of the 22 foot models rolling down the line, I noticed that the closet door in it was opening left to right and I questioned them as to why mine had been installed "backwards." They laughed and said that it was a little experiment to see if that configuration would be better since people could reach in from the outside of the trailer and get something from the closet. I've never tried to do that and can't think of a time when it would be useful. Anyway, the guys at the factory stated that they went back to the original arrangement when there had been complaints. They didn't know how many had been turned around. You and I may have had the only ones done this way.

Brakes Fixed! The problem was simply that the brakes were not getting a ground when not hooked to the tow vehicle (I've yet to make sure the brakes work during tow, but I don't have any reason to think otherwise--but I will check.) Both drums are grounded with the same wire (goes across to the other side thru the axle) so when one worked they both did. Sherry, you and Paul suggested it first. Thanks for everyone's help Steve

The other day I decided to see if my brakes needed adjusting and to test the emergency break-away switch on our trailer. I didn't have any reason to think it would not operate properly, but I figured knowing it would work would be better than finding out the hard way that it didn't. The trailer was not connected to the tow vehicle. It was plugged in to external power. I lowered the jacks on both sides until each tire could spin freely and pulled the switch pin. I then tried each tire and, to my surprise, they both still spun freely. No clicking, humming, no sound at all. My first thought was that, for some reason, it needed to be unplugged from the external power. No change. Next, I figured the switch or the wiring of said switch was somehow bad. I replaced the switch pin and checked the wires coming out of the switch. One wire showed 12 volts (this one apparently coming from the batteries) the other one was "dead" until the switch pin was pulled and then it too showed 12 volts. That proved that the switch itself was functional. I then found the blue wire inside the trailer that exits to the outside to attach to the brake drum on the street side. This wire tested hot when the switch pin was pulled, so I knew the wiring was good to that point. I then checked it outside the trailer at the drum and that tested hot also. Meanwhile, the wheels still spun. So, what am I overlooking? Am I incorrect in my expectations? Could it be that the brakes only need adjusting? To the best of my knowledge the brakes have always worked properly thru the tow vehicle. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks...

Them sure are purdy purple flyers. When are you two planning to arrive at the Jugfest? Tali and I will get there on the 29th.

Tali says we got those particular suction hooks at Bed, Bath and Beyond. Are you coming to the Jugfest? I may have a extra or I can get some before we come if anyone would like to try it for yourself.

Hey Aubrey, Tali and I look forward to meeting you at the Jugfest. We sure would appreciate one of those fancy plugs you make. I've lusted after one of those ever since Larry told me about his. See you in April,

Hey Larry, I do like the idea of being able to stay longer and spend less money. It's my understanding that the fees at Kirby have increased to $18.00 per night. Well, that's $126.00 for a weeks worth of camping. Not insurmountable, but still a good bit of money that could be spent toward something else. My opinion is that this whole thing is about friends getting together and having a good time, eating some good food and creating some memories to last the rest of our lives. The obvious downside is the lack of electricity and water, but most of you guys have spent some time "off the grid." This would give some of us that haven't done as much a to try it with friends nearby to bail us out if we find we're not doing it right. I think this is a good option. But, that being said, it's just that--an option. If everyone had rather camp near the juice, then the will of the Jugfesters should rule. You may count Tali and myself in either way. As an aside, we have a couple sets of friends that would like to come, but being somewhat financially challenged, there is some reluctance. This might be an added enticement for them to come along.

We spend a decent amount of time in California as well.. so there are more like 4.25 Olivers in CA Well, if visiting CA counts toward boosting the Oliver population there, include us in the tally. We were there this past October.

Despite being titled "Casita leaving..." Whose Oliver is this?

Tell me again when and where it is. Thanks