ScubaRx

I bought a 12 V water pump from Northern tools, then I just placed the "in" suction side of the hose into a 5 gallon clear used Ozarka 5 gallon bottle, then put the out pressure hose into the water fill connection on the Oliver and attach the 12 volt clamps to the pos and neg sides of the battery posts respectively and pump the potable water into the tank. Empty 5 gallon potable water jugs can be purchased from Walmart or you can use an old Ozarka drinking water bottle. During the delivery process did you not get shown the process of adding to the fresh water tank using the inlet behind the rear bumper and the on-board water pump?

Robert is out in Quartzsite, Arizona at the RV/Gem Show. I'm sure he'll get back to you soon. As Stan stated, weight distribution gets to be an issue whenever weight is added at either end of the trailer. If excessive weight is added to the front, the tongue weight goes up subtracting from the tow vehicles weight carry capacity and possibly overloading the rear axle. If excessive weight is added to the rear, the tongue weight goes down which can lead to towing instability in the form of the trailer wanting to "fishtail". These issues would be true of any trailer, not just the Oliver. That said, your ability to carry something hanging off the rear end is dependant on the weight of that something. Do you know what your mobility scooter would weigh?

You're not the ONLY one having login problems. I am too on, EVERY computer that I use (several at work, two at home, wireless ipad and iphone) has the same problem. I've done all the things others suggest (many times). There's something wrong in the software, it all happened to everyone at the same time and has cleared up for some but obviously not for everyone. It is VERY irritating.

We found that for extended trips (greater than a few days) the fridge didn't have enough room for food AND water/soft drinks. We generally carry one of our coolers also just for the water and soft/drinks. Plus you're not having to open the fridge as much.

Under the circumstnces you describe, with possibly just a small amount of help, you could easily move your Oliver with one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/600-lb-Hea ... 69898.html Your tongue weight won't be anywhere near 600 pounds.

Hello Hardrock and welcome to the most exclusive molded fiberglass trailer club in the world. These trailers would be HEAVY to attempt to move by hand. That said, on a flat surface it could be done. I'd be leery of an incline, it might get away from you and run you down. I would probably try to use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/BAL-29041B-1000-W ... T80YZWYBDQ Have you considered a front receiver on your vehicle? I use one to push the trailer into tight places.

We had wanted to visit but had not considered traveling thru Canada due to their restrictive laws concerning firearms. About 6 months ago while reading about traveling on the , I discovered that Canada has apparently relaxed their stance on bringing handguns into the country. What you need is the Instructions for: Non-Resident Firearm Declaration. It comes from the RCMP.. I would have uploaded the interactive pdf file but the forum does not allow uploads of pdf's. What's up with that? We have since re-evaluated our view of our Northern neighbors and will be planning a trip to Alaska soon.

Yea, the search box is not black any longer...

I've not had any problems with the fridge not cooling in hot weather. I run it usually on 4, sometimes I'll move it to 5 if I (subjectively) think it needs it. The Oliver sign is not a high brake light. It was on the original 17 footers, but one of the inspection agencies told they could not get some certification or other with it functioning that way. Sorry, I don't remember all the particulars. It basically functions as a lighted advertisement. You can, however, get them to put whatever you want on it. Our original said "Outlaw".

Good morning Jim and welcome aboard. I spec'd a pair of 5200 pounders for our Outlaw Oliver build (gotta be able to carry all my stuff ). I took the info from the stickers stuck to the axles and called the manufacturer to get all the particulars. I "think" I remember they are just standard hubs. Now you've got me curious, I'll have to check my notebook of information to see.

There has been a lot of discussion on various thread about how the new Oliver performs in the cold. Since this has been the coldest weather any one of them has experienced so far, I decided to do a little testing. First some parameters and disclosures: I am in Tupelo, MS usually not one of the coldest spots in North America especially in mid November. However, as I am writing this, it is 28̊ outside with tonight’s predicted low of 18̊. As a comparison, on this day last year we had a high of 72̊ with a low of 64̊. Our trailer is inside a metal building. The building is unheated and completely open on one end. It does stay about 3̊ or 4̊ warmer than the ambient temperature inside probably due to the heated trailer sitting there. Although I do “winterize” our trailer, (I drain the water and blow out the lines, no antifreeze) I keep it heated with a small heater I got at Wal-Mart. It sits on the floor about half way down the center aisle pointing toward the rear. I like to keep the interior around 60̊. Sometimes I like to go out there and take a nap or read and I want it to be comfy. We have two digital thermometers inside mounted more or less at either end of the trailer. One is simply the remote for the http://www.amazon.com/Maxxair-0007000K- ... ds=maxxfan which has an onboard digital readout, the other is a http://www.walmart.com/ip/La-Crosse-Tec ... k/17378668 that you can easily deduce from whence it came. There was one remote transmitter supplied that we mounted under the propane cover outside and it sends the information on the exterior temps. We added another remote transmitter that is mounted inside the refrigerator to monitor the temps there. cpaharley2008 had tweaked my curiosity about the possibility of being cold sleeping right next to my windows. Since I had purposely designed our beds to top out right at the level of the windows, I wondered if maybe I’d not thought that through. We have double pane windows throughout the trailer. I used a http://www.harborfreight.com/non-contac ... 60725.html to measure the interior and exterior temps. This was all done within about a 20 minute period so there was little to no temperature fluctuation. Measurements: The two digital thermometers both read 61̊ for the interior temperature. All interior walls were within 1̊ of the above interior temperature. All exterior walls were at 31̊ (just barely warmer that the ambient outside temperature). All interior window panes were about 59̊ All exterior window panes were about 37̊ The interior of the door was 54̊ The exterior of the door was 31̊ The interior of the door glass pane was 54̊ The exterior of the door glass pane was 44̊ The floor was about 56̊ The ceiling was about 66̊ In the basement and between the shells (where all the plumbing and tanks are) the temps varied from 45̊ to 50̊ as measured on the foil surface of the reflectix insulation glued to the inside of the exterior shell. Deductions: There was a 30̊ difference in the temperature of the inside and outside shells. There was a 22̊ difference in the temperature of the inside and outside window panes. There was about a 2̊ difference between the interior wall and the interior window pane. The door is purchased as a standard RV model with a dual pane window and is not manufactured by Oliver. It is obviously not as well insulated as the rest of the coach, but it is at least as good as the coach windows. There was a 23̊ difference in the temperature of the inside and outside of the door. There was a 10̊ difference in the temperature of the inside and outside door glass panes. There was a 10̊ difference in the temperature of the floor and ceiling (heat rises). The reflectix insulation affords about a 15̊ temperature difference on either side of a single shell. Since each shell has its own layer of reflectix, this accounts for the 30̊ difference in the temperature of the inside and outside shells. Does all this qualify the new Oliver Elite II as having 4 season capabilities? I couldn’t tell you. But I do know that it’s below freezing out there right now and not even using the furnace I could easily get the temperature up to about 80̊inside with nothing more than that little cube heater. That’s way hotter than I want to sleep.

Some may be wondering the proper way to wire a solar system. I have a pdf of the diagram but don't seem to be smart enough to figure out how to make it attach. You can find it here: http://www.amsolar.com/shop/images/5-sr ... .v1.14.pdf

Very good.

Next, your going to tell us how cool the wine cellar is in the summer . . . Pete, funny you should mention that, I was thinking just the other day how long it had been since I'd been down there. I must remember to ask one of the staff to let me know what the temperature is and remind them to keep it at about 55 degrees.

We spec'd the Dometic Penguin II at 13,500 BTU's. It is a little under 10 inches high.

Sasquatch, Welcome aboard. Since ALL of the 23 footers have hit the road since about March of this year, there's not going to be much hard data about cold weather operation with them yet. I can give you some information about how they fare in warm weather. Our unit would consistently stay some 10 degrees cooler inside than outside without any outside influence (A/C, fans, etc) Crank up the A/C and you'll be turning it down soon. Cool evenings make for good sleeping and the Maxxfan did a good job of keeping it comfortable. We camped for a week in Arkansas earlier this month. It was cold and it rained every day. There were mornings that it was downright chilly. We would turn the basement furnace on for a few minutes while showering and getting dressed and I can attest to just how quiet the furnace is and to how warm it got. That vent in the bathroom sure is nice. I know that's not like it might be if the temps had been in the teens instead of the forties and fifties but I have no doubt that the Oliver's heating system could have handled it. On a side note we had little to no condensation on the walls, there was some on the windows but not enough to run off, puddle and cause a problem. We have the solar panels and, although they didn't get to strut their stuff during the rain, two weeks before we had been up in Northern Tennessee and they easily kept all our batteries topped off. Camping during the monsoon in Arkansas did prove to be enlightening however. It took four days to get our batteries down to 60%. I decided to not be conservative and see how long we could go. (As you probably know, you should never get below 50%.) We ran the lights, water pump, furnace, Maxxfan, and two CPAP machines every night. We averaged about 40 amp hours of drain per day. We could have gone another day to just reach 50%. With conservation, I think we could go a week. And I'll tell you, if you're in one place for 7 straight days and there's absolutely no sun, it's probably time to move on anyway. Never having owned any other brand TT than Oliver (this is our second) I'm afraid I'm not able to do much side by side comparing of efficiencies. I’ve seen most of the other brands and you’ll not find one appointed as nicely or built any better than the Oliver. I truly believe it is the finest molded fiberglass trailer in the world. That may sound like a lot of bravado, but as Will Rogers once said “If you done it, it ain’t bragging.” Keep asking questions, you’ll find this is a knowledgeable, laid back group.

Steve, that's really helpful info. And, very precise, as we'd expect from you. What equipment is on your roof? AC, of course. King Dome? Antenna? Thanks. Sherry It's pretty full, we have A/C, Maxxfan, Solar Panels, King Dome. The King Dome and the A/C are about the same height. I can't recall which was the highest.

If you have 10 feet of clearance, you will make it. The 9 foot 7 inch spec is what Robert and I measured on mine at the factory one day. We pulled it beneath a roll-up door and lowered the door until it just touched the highest point on the trailer. I then measured the distance from the floor to the bottom of the door with a laser.

I don't use the built-in extension, BUT I had the factory extend my tongue receiver 26 inches to accomodate the genny basket. So, in essence, I guess I effectively do. That's got a lot to do with why my tongue weight was less than I had feared. I forgot to mention that I have the thirty pound propane tanks also, so there's an extra 45 or so pounds also on the tongue. I know you guys are excited and Thanksgiving will be here in no time. Maybe we could get together sometime and have a little rally.

Sorry, I think I actually edited your original post instead of quoting it and responding. I knew it didn' t look just right. Anyway, I hope that answered your questions.

I have a Yamaha 3000 on the tongue in the box that came off our former Oliver. After delivery I started thinking (that's sometimes not a good thing) and I "estimated" our tongue weight at somewhere over 900 pounds. I based that on the fact that the genny and box weighed in at about 200 pounds, the trailer weighs North of 6000 pounds, and a few other guesstimated pounds thrown in for good measure. When I actually weighed it at the factory it was only 535 pounds. So, there you go. I was pleasantly surprized, then at once concerned that it was not even 10% of the weight of the trailer. BUT, after pulling the trailer several thousand miles so far, I can honestly say I find NO need for anything to be added to my standard hitch setup. It pulls straight and true, I'm happy with it like it is.

We plan to pack up the Outlaw Oliver II in a few days and head out to ... somewhere. Not being cryptic, just don't know yet where we'll go. I'm "thinking" about maybe over into Arkansas. We need to stay within one day's drive from home to be able to maximize our time. The tree's should be turning some and there are plenty of little eclectic towns scattered about to explore. We might wander up to the Buffalo NR. Or we may go toward Gatlinburg and parts around there. Not having a lot of time limits my creative planning of a trip. Anybody else going to be out and about? Today is the first day of my last year to work. I plan to retire next year at 65. Then we’ll have time to do some decent extended trips. I plan to make the first one to Alaska, maybe take 6-8 months. If anybody has any thoughts about that, feel free to share them with me. Nothing is set in stone yet.

Francey, How far are you willing to drive. We may be somewhere in that neighborhood next week (at least within a hundred miles or so), it's still kinda up in the air but I could let you know if you're interested in seeing ours. Steve

Has anyone been to Fall Creek Falls SP (Tennessee). We’re planning a quick trip maybe up that way soon. A lot of the folks we work with that camp have recommended it. Don’t know much about it but thought we would give it a look see. We may stop by the Jack Daniels Distillery in Lynchburg either going or coming as time allows. Been there many times but it’s always interesting. Or we may get distracted and head in another direction all together. After that we have one more trip for the season and don’t have any idea where we’ll end up for that time period (7 days) which is not enough to do anything too exciting (like driving to the Grand Canyon or Alaska) so we’ll probably stay within 8 hours of home. Who knows a good place somewhere in the Southeast? MS, TN, AL, FL, GA? Just looking for some suggestions!

I will try to answer any questions you have about solar and battery's . Call me if you care to Steve 662-255-0181