ScubaRx

Congrats, Kevin. Welcome to the club. You will NOT be disappointed in your choice.

You will not need anything to supplement the lifting/leveling capability of the electric jacks. Either of the two rear jacks will lift that side of the trailer completely off the ground. In addition, you won't need a jack if you ever have to change a tire. Leveling your new Oliver will actually be fun!!!

I transferred our tool kit from our previous Oliver Elite to our current Elite II. Rather than try to tell you what you need I'll tell you what I carry and you can make your own decision as to whether you might want to also. Misc. screwdrivers (flat and phillips) Misc. pliers, wire cutters/strippers/crimping tools, vice grips, hemostats Hammer, rubber and regular Multi-Meter A full set of metric and SAE wrenches A full set of metric and SAE sockets Two DeWalt 18V cordless tools (drill/driver and Impact) A full set of 64 drill bits The 18V batteries also fit a DeWalt Vacuum and flashlight An 18 inch long 1/2 inch drive breaker bar with a 5 inch extension bar An 18 inch long 1/2 inch drive torque wrench A dedicated 6pt socket that fits the lug nuts on the Oliver and Truck A dedicated 6pt socket that fits the anode in the water heater (mostly in case someone else needs it) A 12 volt air compressor Tire plug kit, Pressure gauge, Non-Contact Infrared Digital Thermometer (for hubs and tires) A collection or stainless steel screws, bolts, nuts and washers Extra fuses Flashlights, butane lighters Misc. crimp type wire connectors and terminals, roll of electrical tape Duct Tape, WD-40, Silicone Spray, several rolls of that green Velcro that's used to tie up plants etc. (just cut off what you need to secure cords or what-ever), scotch tape Tube of White Caulk Misc. hose fittings such as Y's and cut-off valves, extra rubber washers Two complete sets of wheel bearings, races and grease seals as well as grease in a NEW, CLEAN grease gun Jumper Cables (these will come in really handy if your converter/charger ever fails - guess how I know) 30 amp to 50 amp converter, 30 amp to 15 amp converter, 120V extension cord Clear Elbow for hooking up the sewer hose when full hookups are available or at a dump station Water purifier Misc. wooden blocks to put under our jacks Misc. bungee cords, para-cord 120V extension cord This is the bulk of what we take, it sounds like a lot of stuff now that I've written it down, but with the exception of the wheel bearings and tire plug kit, we've needed each of these at one time or another.

I have a measured 0.4 aH phantom draw on my batteries. Each of these devices draw approximately 0.1 aH each: CO detector, USB charging ports, Radio/TV and GPS tracker. That will amount to about 9.6 amps daily or 2.4% of my available 400 amps.

Well now dag-nabbit, who's done went and moved Cherokee off over there into North Carolina? No wonder I can never find it....

It appears there are at least five Oliver's signed up for the rally in Cherokee, TN this fall. Who wants to make it six or more? There are plenty of sites left so let's see if we can make a real showing.

Where are you, David? I've tried to call you every night for the past three.

What color red do you suggest? That shade you wear on your toenails is NOT very fetching....

As owners of the finest trailer being built in the world today you are hereby welcomed into the most exclusive club in the world, The Oliver Owners. Everything about the Oliver is first class, as you have seen. You all can look forward to a most extraordinary traveling experience. Let the good times begin...

I would not hesitate one second starting out to California from Tennessee. Your new Oliver will pull like a dream. There is a group of us that are going that way via the Southern route although we are scheduled to leave somewhere around the middle of January. Just stick around Hohenwald for a few days after pickup to see if there are any kinks to work out before you leave. You'll have a great trip.

There always has to be a "slight" amount of relief in a mold or it would not release. However, this "out of perfectly square difference" is most likely insignificant in this case.

Have they changed the size of the battery box on the new Elite's? We had two Optima Yellow top AGM's in our original . They were over 9 inches tall and had plenty of room above them.

Mike and Carol Hello and How y'all doin' from Mississippi. Boerne, TX, you guys are not too far from Camp Wood. I helped a cousin move there several years back. His house was right beside the Nueces River. He's since moved up to Weatherford, but I remember how beautiful that area of Texas is. Welcome to the forum. The Oliver is the finest molded fiberglass travel trailer being built today. Nothing but the best materials and equipment are being used. Nothing else compares. I do hope you folks decide to pull the trigger. You will not be sorry and you will have purchased something that will be here for you to pass on to your grand-kids and beyond. Let me know if I can be of any assistance.

There have been multiple threads on the FGRV forum concerning trailer security. Everyone has their own opinion and method and I agree that, depending on your personal beliefs, they could include simple diligence, locks, fences, chains, whips, guard dogs, guns, cameras, claymore mines, trunk monkeys and a moat. Those folks that are un-inclined to subscribe to any of the aforementioned tactics seem to just rely on good insurance. I employ some of these methods myself but if my trailer suddenly sprouts legs and walks off, I want to be able to find it and perhaps use some of the other methods on those folks that helped it along. I started investigating electronic counter measure devices to do just that. I looked at the SPOT Satellite Messenger. I didn’t find the initial cost of about $150.00 too bad. It uses your GPS location and sends it and preselected message to communication satellites which route your location and message to the appropriate network to get you help. It is obviously designed for and intended to be used by a person while traveling in remote regions and it does have good coverage. The best service plan will cost about $200.00 per year. For those folks that may only travel a few weeks of the year, that might be beyond what they are comfortable spending. I continued to look. There are several out there but none seemed to do what I wanted or cost more than I wanted to pay. I finally found what I thought would do everything I wanted at a reasonable price and I installed it in the Outlaw Oliver. I have it set up so that: When the trailer is unattended and sitting still (either here at home or anywhere else) and moves over 300 feet, it will send a text message to my iphone that includes a hyperlink to a Google Map page with an icon on it indicating where the trailer is. It will continue to send these until I tell it to stop. If the door is opened it will set off a local alarm and send a text message stating that the door has been breached and includes the same hyperlink. I can call it with my iphone and it will send the hyperlink. If the main power source is removed (trailer batteries) it will send the hyperlink. There are internal lithium batteries that power it if the external power fails and it will alert you if these become low. I can text it and tell it to switch between tracking and monitoring. In Monitor mode I can listen in on anything going on inside the trailer via a hidden microphone. I can authorize up to five phones that can access it. Family can always tell where we are. If we push the “panic” button it will send out a help message to all phones. All programing is done via text messages and in addition you can arm/disarm it with an included key fob remote. There are dozens of other functions that it will perform. You can set up multiple virtual GEO fences that will alert if the trailer is moved into or out of. You can have it text you if it is going over a MPH that you have pre-set as maximum. It has an internal SD slot that will log all this data. The list goes on and on. This piece of equipment is (I’m sure) made in China, as its manual is printed in Chinglish and thus has somewhat of a steep learning curve but it cost me less than $50.00 including the SIM card with 200 prepaid text messages. There are no monthly fees. When you’ve used your allotted text messages, you just reload it with another $10 worth. It operates in conjunction with the GPS and Cell phone systems. And it works just like it said it would. I tried to upload photos of the aluminum mast and mount that I made for my remote control GoLight and the two antennas for the tracker, but I could not get it to work. I will work on that another day. I believe both of these items might be being offered as options on the Oliver Elite II.

I ordered my LED's from e-bay for $13 each you can find them by searching for "Brightest MR11 12 V 10 SMD LED White 160 Lumen Wide Ang": Or you can get them from their website direct. http://www.pbcheap.com/led-light-flashlights For the 10w light I added today, I bought a base for a light bulb at home depot for $3. I cut the socket portion of an extension cord off and wired it to the bulb base. I got the bulb at walmart. And then zip tied it all to to the stock light fixture as seen in the pictures above. I put some aluminum foil under half the cover so the light doesn't shine through the top. So I'm working with about 14watts of light total. I have both sets of lights timed to be on at the same time for 10hours a day. If I start getting algae growth then I'm going to cut back the 10w for a little bit halfway through the day.....etc. I'll keep everyone updated how it works \ Nomanni, Tell us again where you are using these LED's. I got confused when you mentioned algae growth.

June 21, 2008 - The Outlaw Oliver Elite Looking Forward Twin Bed Interior Leaving the Factory March 16, 2014 - The Outlaw Oliver Elite II Tali inside the new Twin Bed Model Steve and the Fur Crew

This is one of the baskets from Oliver and our Yamaha generator mounted on the front of the Outlaw Oliver Elite II. It is all normally concealed under a custom white vinyl cloth cover.

I think we should stay the first night in a campground with full hookups so we can check out the trailer completely. I agree, it's unlikely, but should you have any concerns after the first night, you'll be close to the factory and they will be straightened out right away. Do you have any first hand information about the Seven Points Campground near Nashville, TN? I think we will be camping there for a couple of nights before heading east. I'm sorry, I have never been at the Seven Points CG.

A bit off topic but just so you'll know, Meriwether Lewis Park is located on the Natchez Trace at Milepost 385.9. The park offers no hookups (not even a dump station), but fresh water is available from centrally located faucets and there are very clean bathrooms with flush toilets. I've stayed there several times and it's quiet and peaceful. You might well have the campground to yourself or at the very least there will be scant few folks camping with you. http://www.nps.gov/natr/learn/historycu ... -lewis.htm

I'm somewhat unclear on why you're turning the gas off at the bottles. Unless this is just your personal preference, and you prefer not to travel with them on, I don't know of any reason why you have to do that. Except when removing the bottles for filling, I've never turned the gas off on either of the Oliver's that I've owned. Maybe I've not been doing it correctly. I assume you do not run the fridge on gas while going down the road???

...showering at night and in the morning using the water pump... You shower TWICE a day? While camping? What's up with that?

Welcome Horace and Dianne. After that factory tour the hook will be set and you can join the most exclusive Fiberglass Travel Trailer Club in the World... The OLIVER OWNERS!!! We'd love to have you.

Testing picture upload ability

I had a problem with the brakes on my first trailer that ended up being a poor ground. Raise the cushions and compartment cover on the left side of the front dinette. Look toward the rear of the trailer with a flashlight. Near the support for the battery box there will be four wires entering the cabin from the back side of the wheel well. Two blue and two white. These pairs are tied together with the blues going to positive 12VDC and the whites going to ground. On my trailer the white wire goes directly to the grounding bar located on the frame right before you. It is the ONLY white wire on mine, all the rest are yellow. If yours is set up differently, find the wires coming from the wheel well and trace where the white wires go. They could be tied to a ground (yellow) wire somewhere else but they have to go to ground for the brakes to work.

Check to see if the brakes have a good ground.