ScubaRx
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Posts posted by ScubaRx
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We've traveled with two different male Dobermans during our 15+ years of traveling in our two Oliver's. Storm and Reacher. Sadly, both have passed on. They were great traveling companions and they both loved the side dinette as their sleeping nest. Good looking dog.
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Looks like ETI (Escape Travel Trailers) is about to be sold ... again.
Their President is “leaving”...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCmIuseIyFYand they’re looking for a replacement...
https://ca.linkedin.com/jobs/view/president-at-escape-trailer-industries-3643364914There is a 9 page thread on their forum...
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f20/karl-says-goodbye-24829.html
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I placed a request with Southco for a price quote for twenty of the M1-20-91-78 locks. We'll see what they say.
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On 7/6/2023 at 1:16 PM, jd1923 said:
…One future project for me is to reroute some plumbing to change these water valves w/o removing the bed!….
I replaced the manual valves with electric ones because I got tired of having to change the valves…twice every time we added water. I flip a switch one way and all the valves move to Aux Fill. Flip it back and they return to normal operation again.
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14 hours ago, rich.dev said:
I looked at the Southco website and found that more secure latches are available. Notice the cut-key “lock style 9” (on right), vs the stock/OEM stamped key “lock style 8”.
Stock “lock style 8” with stamped key “Lock style 9” with cut key
Wondering if a large number of forum members approach Oliver with a collective request to upgrade the battery compartment and basement compression latches, would Oliver be open to sourcing these more secure latches (lock style 9 with cut key) from Southco and offer them to the members?
Here’s the spec sheet of the Southco style 8 and 9 locks, from what I could figure out we need part# M1-20-91-78
20 = 2” hole dia.
9 = cut key
1 = 0.25” door thickness
7 = Long cam, offset reversed
Why couldn’t a group of owners approach Southco with the same idea. It would be more likely to happen in a more timely manner.
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7 hours ago, MAX Burner said:
We're planning to eliminate our M/W and use the space for a wine cabinet.... HA!
We’ll, that will eliminate your issue of the air conditioner and the microwave not being able to run at the same time on your 2000 watt generator.
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13 hours ago, topgun2 said:
Only slept in the Cracker Barrel parking lot for the night.
I'm presently waiting out a tunder storm at a rest area in Iowa.
For those in warmer climates - it is 59 degrees and very wet outside right now.
Bill
Sounds like good sleeping weather.
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5 hours ago, MAX Burner said:
@SeaDawg: YES! 100%... The microwave (which we really never use anyway) will not operate when the Dometic A/C unit is running off the EU2000i. The ground bonding plug was the key to making this a game-changer for us!
I'm confused. You do realize that without the neutral-ground bonding plug installed, neither of these can run since there will be NO generator supplied 120V getting past the EMS in your trailer? The plug does not change the amount of current coming in, but allows the EMS to accept the electricity in a configuration that it expects and will accept. The microwave and air conditioner are never going to run at the same time off a 2000 watt generator no matter what you add. I've never tried, but I doubt they would run together with my Yamaha 3000 watt.
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46 minutes ago, scottarue said:
I am stupid! Can you explain more about this? I thought all I had to do was use a 30amp to 15amp adaptor and plug the OTT into the generator and it would work. When you say I ALSO need a ground plug that is connected into one of the other generator receptacle, what do you mean?
All RV electrical systems are wired with their Ground and Neutral buses floated (unbonded from each other). There are lots of good reasons for this, most specifically that it’s an NEC and RVIA code requirement that the safety ground wire never carries any load current. Also, there can be only one Ground-to-Neutral bonding point in any distributed electrical system in the USA.
So when your RV is powered by its on-board generator, this G-N bond connection is created by the transfer switch set to generator mode. But when the transfer switch is set to receive shore power, your RV expects the external power source to bond its Ground and Neutral wires together.
Now, if you have an inline voltage monitor system (EMS) from a manufacturer such as Progressive Industries, your voltage monitor is checking for the Neutral and Ground voltages to be very close to each other, probably within 3 volts or so.
This works well if you’re plugged into shore power that’s properly grounded and bonded, but this voltage protector can be tripped off by plugging your RV shore power plug into a portable generator without an internal Neutral-Ground bond. If you don’t have a voltage protection device on your RV, then you may never know that your generator has a floated neutral (unbonded G-N bus).
I doubt you're stupid, but after being a member here for going on 3 years, I'm surprised you've never seen this mentioned before.
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On 10/3/2022 at 3:23 PM, Coddiwomple said:
Really like what you did with the bed in the back and we are considering doing the same, however, we just ordered an Elite 1 and will not receive it until May 2023.
Taking this idea a step further, we are thinking about making the side dinette in to a permanent bed too and then install a Lagun mount with tabletop at the back. This could also be used as a prep table next to the stovetop by swiveling it there. I suppose we will have to see how this will work after we get our Ollie.
David Purkey
We had one of the very few twin bed setups in our original 2008 Elite. It was set up very similarly to what you are describing here and it worked very well for us.
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2 minutes ago, GAP said:
I used a Chevy Colorado to tow my E2 for thousands of miles. Eventually switched up to a Ford F150. the Chevy was rated to 7000lbs towing and the Ford is 11,500. While the Chevy got the job done, it felt very much on the edge. Transmission ran hot, was super slow to get up to speed and, biggest concern, the brake, suspension and tranny systems were not designed to be able to pull that weight with any safety margin. t's likely that the Jeeps are in the same boat. If you can tow something with a vehicle that is barely rated for it does not necessarily mean you should.
Seems like I hear an echo in here.
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6 minutes ago, MAX Burner said:
...after adding a Neutral-Ground Bonding Plug to our Honda EU-2000 last week, we're now able to run the factory Dometic "Noisemaker" A/C unit with a MicroAir Easy Start capacitor installed. Sweet - like candy!
Now... Question: Are there any "Double E's" out there that can explain why adding this plug to the GENSET makes it energize the A/C unit? Just curious...
Without the Neutral-Ground Bonding Plug, NO 120V AC plug should be "hot" with only the generator running. This has nothing to do with the plug itself but rather the nature of the wiring of RV units. Without the plug no electricity from the generator can get past the EMS. This is not necessary when on shore power.
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On 2/13/2022 at 12:45 PM, Happy Camper said:
Hello everyone,
I'm new on here and excited to be a part of the community.
I just placed an order for a small 2500 watt dual fuel Champion generator and plan on running it off of the propane quick connects.
Just be aware that your new "2500 Watt" generator will have 2500 starting watts, 1850 running watts and up to 11.5 hours run time on gasoline OR 1665 running watts and up to 34 hours on propane (although I would assume this depends on the amount of propane you have available.)
Running on propane, it's doubtful it will run any air conditioner even with the easy start option.
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49 minutes ago, Boonter Jeff said:
We had several loose water connections. Having the pump running unnecessarily or low water pressure gave them away. Not too happy about that. Much bigger unresolved problem with brake system. Our only nearby RV place is slammed and we are still waiting to find out what it is. It could be a combo of our controller on the truck not working, and an electrical problem on one side of the trailer. Already missed one planned trip.
Your profile states you own a 2014 seventeen foot Casita, is that correct?
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On 6/21/2023 at 5:00 PM, Citrus breeze said:
I reapplied the band using double sided industrial strength tape. Unfortunately, it's thickness left a gap between hull and band. Complained to Oliver, and they sent me another band. I just had the E2 serviced this spring, and had them replace the old band with the new band.
Just checked again, and the newly applied band is off the hull! Man...For the price of this unit, this should not be happening.
Our trailer is over 10 years old. Belly band still right where they originally installed it. In fact, I don’t recall ever having any problems that I couldn’t fix.myself.
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Looking at the photos, this doesn’t appear to have actually “roiled.” If it had, the air conditioner and solar panels would have been destroyed. It looks like it just flipped onto its side and slid for a bit.
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We are currently using a Blackstone 17 inch. I built a special rack in the truck to hold the two parts of it. It cooks really well and is now easy to pack. I run it off the onboard propane tanks.
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1 hour ago, Wolfepack said:
So here’s my setup and I like it a lot. REI metal roll up table (Apparently they are green now) which I’ve had for over 20 years. Weber Q 1200. Torjik converter for the Weber. All works flawlessly from quick connect at front of trailer. If I want to convert back to using an unregulated propane tank I just use the adapter for the propane tank. All links below pic.
https://www.rei.com/product/217993/rei-co-op-dining-table
https://torjik.com/weber-q-grill-compatible-rv-quick-connect-conversion-kit-12-m-f-qc-hose/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B095YDZMH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
We bought one of these thinking it was the best grill in the world. It always cooked too hot and would not pack worth a tinker's dam. The rounded top keeps you from being able to put anything on top of it so all the space above it is wasted.
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1 hour ago, Ollie-Haus said:
We got the Weber Traveler that was offered by Oliver at the time of purchase last month. It's extremely portable and folds up into position in seconds. I also bought the griddle plate for one side to allow making pancakes or anything else that would fall through the grate. This makes the Traveler even more camp friendly.
We won one of these at the 2022 Rally. It was so big, I was barely able to get into our 3500 Silverado to take it home. I sold it within a week, never took it out of the box. Just way too big for me to consider.
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4 hours ago, NCeagle said:
After nearly 3 years and over 10K miles with our LEII, I had my first plumbing connection failure and leak. One of the plastic connectors on top of the hot water heater cracked. Luckily I had been carrying some spare plumbing parts and was able to temporarily repair the broken connector with a copper one.
I'm home now and I am replacing ALL of the plastic plumbing connections with copper connectors and stainless cinch rings. I'm finding that my handheld cinch ring tool opens too wide to get at most of the plumbing connections down near the floor. I can use stainless hose clamps in those tight areas (doubled up if necessary) but would prefer to use the cinch rings. I know others have had to replace the plastic fittings and I'm hoping for some advice on how others have tackled the problem in the tight spaces.
Thanks in advance!!!!!
Not having those tools, I don't routinely use the cinch rings. I do have the tools for the copper crimp rings and that's my go-to. There are some cinch tools that will pinch from the front or the side which might be easier in tight spots.
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What fun. Take it all in as you can but enjoy yourself. It will become second nature before you know it.
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Instead of moving a 42 pound machine in and out of the trailer, why not just use it sitting in the outside front generator basket. It would be very simple to run a water line out through the front of the trailer to the washer or if you're in a campground simply run a hose to it from the campground tap.
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53 minutes ago, John E Davies said:
Well, thanks, maybe a current FB member could help me out by posting a Heads Up message and a link to my "Mouse" ad in the FB For Sale group. Is that allowed? I don't want to break my social media abstinence quite yet. I did post on my local Craigslist. That will show up in any nationwide "Oliver For Sale" Google search.
Thanks,
John Davies
Spokane WA
Even if someone posted a link on FB to your ad here, if someone followed it they would discover thy have to be a registered member here to even see it.
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This is the latest addition to their membership requirements.
Dear members,
Due to some issues that have arisen, and our desire to be consistent in application of our group rules, we have decided to eliminate Pages as members, and to also eliminate members who use obviously fake names.
The purpose of this group is to be a friendly, helpful band of fellow travelers. The group is classified as Private, meaning only members can read posts. This protects us from scammers.
We will be culling our member list, and contacting those members who are not using their real names.
People who have experienced having their Facebook accounts scammed or cloned should know that the fact that the group is Private helps prevent those types from infiltrating the group. Also the due diligence of your administrators in vetting new join requests helps keep you safe.
To increase your personal account safety, you should go to your privacy settings, and make sure your selection on who can see your posts is “friends only”.
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Anyone else watch the Tesla Cybertruck launch?
in Towing an Oliver
Posted
I've seen a crap load of vehicles in my 70+ years. That thing far surpasses any vehicle I've ever seen in pure unadulterated butt-uglyness. Hopefully they're giving them away to blind folks. I used to think it couldn't get any more ugly than this:
I was wrong.