Going

Thanks for this thread. I am getting ready to do this mod using the High Sierra head partially because it looks very "angle" versatile so it can be pointed downward at a greater angle then others and because this seems to be a quality head. What GPM did you get? 1.25, 1.5, 1.8 or 2. Just curious and if you are still satisfied? Also, did the head fit into the existing mount/hanger ok? I am also installing the Marine hatch and this control: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTQDRF36?smid=A1ACPRXA78MXSS&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp&th=1

Nice. Was wondering if there was something out there like it. I do not have a 12 volt connection on mine. Guess I could tap into the front jack power. Do you still like it?

Just read this thread and now I am really excited I have a far less expensive option than Truma. Thanks for the post! We were at the rally but did not attend the service question and answer with Jason. Was this topic discussed? It appears from this thread, the Dometic Freshet 3 is a direct plug and play to its noisy older brother. I did not see any posts saying anything electrical needed to change. I also never saw if anyone answered the wattage required to start/run with a generator. Does anyone know that answer? Hull #246.

Nice for being able to move from each stabilizer depending on sky. How tall does the pole extend above the trailer? Does it extend easily with the dish attached?

Seadawg and Mountainoliver, I am following after your footsteps here first in installing the Marine hatch and second in replacing the shower system. I really like the design. But I can not see the diverter in these pictures. I only see the hot and cold valves where the shower hose connects. W/hat am I missing? Besides glasses.

Sure, a pic would be goo. I am not following "between" the BBs. Are you talking front to back or side to side.

Nice. This is exactly what I needed. Earlier this year I had 3 LifePros installed in your final configuration but they did not install an on/off switch. I supplied all the parts (except an on/off switch) after consulting with BB so I did provide the replacement board with lithium option. I have been trying to figure out how to mount the switch inside the box. And Wa La, here it is! They did thankfully route all the neg connections through the SS so it would work properly. Couple of questions; 1) Is a 250A bus bar with 3/8" connectors what you used? 2. Did you use a tie down strap on the batteries? My 3 fit snuggly in the box using an aluminum flat bar on one side on the bottom of the tray to hold them against the other side so they don't move but seems there should be a strap too in case of a bounce. However, there is no slot on the back of the tray for a strap to hold onto.

Good idea on the bike pump.

John, I googled how to drill in fiberglass gel coat but what type hole saw did you use for the larger hole? Also curious since you had to make the hole behind the stick on reflector, why not just put it anywhere you want?

Was there a hole behind the reflector plate or did you cut one? My reflector plate appears to just be stuck on the outside with no hole behind it. My coax cable port is located much lower in a hard to get to place behind a piece of white pvc tubing. Is that the AC drain line? Anyway looking for another location but if I have to cut a hole might as well be a new one. Your picture above is different then mine.

Curious, what is plugged into the 12 volt outlet?

I believe your bracket is like mine in that it is L shaped and does not have the added structural brace welded in the middle. I am hull 246, 2017. I am wondering if that matters. I know Oliver strengthened the brackets and I think the mounts in the fiberglass to handle the self supporting awning. Mine is the Girard with the fold out supports that connect to the lower trailer. If the dish is supported equally from the center of gravity, then it would be fine which I think it is. I just received mine a few days ago and it weighs 9.2 lbs. I do not see any cantilever issues but would like a second opinion. Wouldn't want it pulling away from the trailer over time. Thanks.

To you first point yes, if you winterize in a cold climate. The Piedmont region in NC where I live sees mild winters so given the limited space I chose the horizontal position. I haven’t seen where Oliver installs them but I think vertical. To you second point yes, when charging, the pump must be off and one water fixture open thus inert. I started with 25psi. Per the instructions it should match the pump psi but not exceed it. Instructions also say the pressure should be released when not in use. The braided hose is better per the instructions to further minimize vibration/noise. However, though someone else said the shorter the distance between the pump and the accumulator the better, the instructions say it doesn’t matter and the accumulator can be placed anywhere in line on the pressurized side. Bill used the provided coupler but also had to raise the accumulator to be inline with the pump. Though I suppose without the extra hose there is less vibration. I wanted the valve on the easy to access side. I am just happy I installed one and will not hear my water lines chatter anymore! Hopefully.

I searched the forum and could not find anything on this. I am hull 246, 2017 and just now getting around to cleaning the excess glue around the edge of my floor. Doing complete maintenance as getting ready to go out west next year. Did any others have this issue. Not sure why it exist from factory but see the picture. What are suggestions to clean it with so not to damage the vinyl floor?

Hi Bill. Nope it wasn't hard at all. When you say braided lines, you mean steel braided? And by pipe insulation you mean like a foam sleeve?