rideadeuce

Installed these today game changer. Simple connection to Victron system. Now I can get rid of the gateway for SensorPush in the attic. Seamless integration with VRM for remote monitoring. Have to get a couple more for the MP2 inverter and battery bank bay.

@rich.dev If you go their website and pick flat mount it is under the mount drop down menu. https://www.trioflatmount.com/contact-us M

I looked into this as well definitely an option with the LiFePO4 batteries.

It was a good idea but unfortunately after testing with MPPT off no difference in results. Battery SOC 50%. I also tried turning off the Epoch BMS and changing some other settings to no avail. I know you had shown some interest in the EPOCH batteries. This link has some helpful insight to their Pros and Cons. I still think they are great but there are some things you need to know about them. I am still using the Victron comms. Link: https://panbo.com/update-epochs-460ah-battery-what-weve-learned/

So went out for lunch and the Orion seemed to be maxing out at around 15 amps. Still double than what I was getting yesterday. The cool thing is I figured out how to remotely monitor the Orion through the Ekrano WIFI instead of the online VRM which is hard to see what exactly each device is doing. But if I go to the Victron Connect app and go to VRM => devices. Each device shows up individually through the Ekrano display, which is nice for monitoring while traveling down the road. The bluetooth direct connect does not work for me in TV, just out of range while driving. I wonder if the Epoch battery BMS which is controlling the charging may be limited charging? 2016 Tundra's 150 amp alternator may be getting tired? Mike

Voila! Immediately went up to 31 amps at idle then settled down at around 14 amp. Voltage output went up from 13.5 to 13.9 as set. @Ronbrink Thanks again. About to head out on the road to do a test run to see how well I can monitor it remotely.

That makes sense. I will give it a try!

Curious to what others with the Orion XS 50 amp 12/12 installed are using for their charge settings and engine shutoff settings. I have mine wired with the TV battery negative to my negative bus which goes to chassis ground and house Epoch battery negative. The positive IN is obviously from TV using 4 awg wire. Orion OUT goes to hot bus bar in rear. My voltage number IN/OUT are fine but the Amps are staying low between 7-11 maybe 14 for a bit on the highway yesterday. Just trying to problem solve. Used 4 AWG for all connections. 2 60 amp manual breakers Thinking about running hot ORION OUT to main pos bus in trailer instead of the rear one and taking neg directly to main chassis ground from TV battery and Orion instead of using neg busbar. Any thoughts @MAX Burner what kind of numbers are you seeing on your trip? Best, Mike

I used the OEM Zamp panels (90 watts each) to make it easy due to the SAE (reverse polarity) connection. There is an empty SAE connection at the junction box under the main panels, so super simple to add. I think I used a SAE Y-combiner to connect the 2 panels (I would have to look). I got the mounts from Amsolar.com. But you are right there is lots of lightweight, flexible options these days. I have thought about changing the whole solar array but due to lack of flat real estate on the roof I have decided to keep what I have. So if you want to keep it simple and plug and play, I would still just go with the Zamp panels.

Finished the install this evening. Everything went as planned but the Orion is only reading 7-10 amps with Tundra parked. Run out of time to problem solve or change the settings too much but everything did seem to be correct in the settings.

Airstreams get totaled out by insurance companies every year due to hail storms (too costly to repair) especially here in the southeast. One of the many reasons I love the fiberglass hulls, more durable and cheaper to repair! Not to mention the custom made aluminum frame, handmade wiring looms, made in TN, etc, etc, etc. 🙂

This one is made more for storage but the box is not removable but I still think I would rather have this than just an access door. How often do you need to get to the plumbing? My main problem with using the OEM shelf is the ability to get bottles in and out... it is just not very user friendly. They make custom sizes and configurations... maybe one could cut out the box to fit around sink drainage pipe. https://www.deepbluemarine.com/products-detail.cfm?ProductID=504 Mike a

After looking at depth in previous installs of hatch door and obstacles this is probably not a viable solution for storage. (below)

Part 2/2 Did as much as I could today (waiting on more 4 awg wire.) All I have to do is pull the wire and hook it up. Did have to remove a small area of propane shroud to fit gland securely. Did not have to remove BR shelf (at least it was easy to fish some fiberglass wire.) Blue Seas gland is well designed, no need for sealant. Clean and easy. Almost bought the @Ronbrink double gland, very nice install. Orion DC-DC 50 amp charger is very light weight and has small footprint. Much less heat production, no heat sink needed. Best, Mike Test fit the wires.

I like that gland and the fact that you went farther to the right, seems like it might make fishing the wires through the bathroom area a more direct shot. I have already purchased a Blue Seas gland but I will see how anxious I am to start on part 2. Waiting on more 4 awg wire and 3/4" loom. Way underestimated. Looks like to me you cut away more of the fiberglass propane housing to make a better fit? If so, how did you control depth. Don't want to cut into main shell. I am going to try and fish it without removing BR shelf, at least initially. Got this Klein fiberglass fish wire... it's pretty flexible but still stiff.

Decided it was time to start the DC/DC charger install after I got the breaker replaced and the solar input working. Getting the Tundra wired up turned out to be fairly straight forward. Just followed the wire I had installed to charge the GZ for the old ARB fridge we used to store extra food. No issues once I figured out where to mount the Anderson connector to the Tundra (absolutely no flat places under bumper near hitch to mount), had to use a couple of longer bolts (removed OEM and matched) that were used to hold the bumper and then used a 6 in water clamp to hold right side of an aluminum 3 in wide x 12 in long x 1/4 in base for the Anderson plug to mount. Used 4 AWG wire from Windy Nation, it came with heat shrink and lugs, 60 amp Blue Seas, a manual 60 amp Blue Seas resettable breaker, 3/4 in sheathing for protection, and Anderson SB120 connectors. For my application, should have gotten 50 ft instead of 40ft wire total. You will also need HD crimper, wire cutter and heat gun. I had to get creative but the mount is strong and as conveniently located as I had hoped for... now for the Ollie install. Have to wait for more wire to ship. Big thank you to those that preceded me and posted their installs! Best, Mike Links: Kit https://www.windynation.com/products/4-gauge-welding-battery-cable-kit-includes-5-pieces-of-3-8-5-pieces-of-5-16-tinned-copper-cable-lugs-and-3-feet-black-heat-shrink-tubing? Blue Seas https://a.co/d/1DkubaD Anderson cover https://powerwerx.com/trailer-vision-tv201426-120-sb120variant=43802376339678 Could have used SB50.

Solar input dropping was due to a loose post on the solar breaker (from over-tightening). FIXED!

Maiden voyage with Starlink went great. SO nice to have a fast internet connection remotely. Magnetic feet on metal VHB'd discs worked flawlessly at 70mph in windy conditions. Didn't move a bit, despite being out front with no wind buffering.

I think this is the problem with reception in the TV.

Oh, I am sure I would have enjoyed it more if I had not been traveling home on a deadline with wife and kids. Brisket and pulled pork sandwiches were good. Just too many people. I know there is a huge fan base, I hear about Buc-ee's all the time at work. I wonder if they will switch all those gas pumps to charging stations in the future. I get what you are saying about the loss of BTUs but the phenomena that I observed was this cyclical loss of solar input from max wattage to zero repeating itself every 5-10 seconds (see video above). I feel like it is something simple, it is just going to be the running it down part that I hope is easy. Replacement 50 amp auto-reset breaker coming today. Hopefully, starting the new Victron 50A DC/DC charger install today or tomorrow. It will be a good time to check all the connections, etc. Best, Mike

So after some research going to look at testing/replacing circuit breaker (one of the post was loose when I was working on it - didn't check it), some have said BMS could be interfering for some reason. Going to do a more thorough check for loose connections and check/replace breaker first.

No, completely clear blue skies on the interstate. Did this all way home.

The spray head and suction cup mount were here when we arrived in Nashville. Side note: Remembered @Snowball had a terrific suggesting for getting ride of the black streaks from the OEM exterior light gaskets. Terribly frustrating. But he suggested using Capt Tolley's creeping crack cure on the gaskets and it worked like a charm!!!! Not more black streaks, just make sure you clean up when applying (hard to get off gelcoat once dry). So the whole reason I replaced the shower head was the freeze got it and it had a hairline crack at the head. SO walking back into the garage I saw Capt. Tolley's sitting on the shelf. Decided to apply it to the old head and see if it works. I will let you know. I also have used it to seal a window that had starting to fog up. Worked great there too. Thanks Snowball, wonderful stuff! Best, Mike

So measeaured performance of system (Victron MP2 3000W, (2) Epoch 460 aH batteries) running AC on the road. We left at 7am and arrived in S Nashville around 3pm. Batteries were 97% when we got on the road and exactly 30% when we got close to home. Started the day at 75 degrees in GS, AL climbed to mid 80s then back to 82 degrees in TN. Cabin temperature was set at 74 and stayed steady the entire time. We made 4 stops along the way, mostly for gas but the last one was at Buc-cees. Never again. Complete mad house. My wife and kids were in hog heaven. But it was so nice NOT having the propane generating running. Completely quiet except for the Dometic AC. I feel like I have a ton of propane now... (2) 30 lb tanks. No more worries about running out of it. *I had this weird reading while monitoring solar input while on the road. The wattage would go up to over 400 watts then drop to zero (blue skies) for a few seconds and then start climbing up again just to drop out and this repeated itself all the way home. Loose wire? Checked, everything seems fine. No alarms/warnings. Temperature in area where solar charger is installed was fine. Video of solar input dropping out... RPReplay_Final1717175852.mp4