rideadeuce

Now that is what I wanted to see, nice job! Thanks for posting. One question, did you do away completely with the Progressive Industries EMS or did you have that in the beginning? Or how about their combiner box for the front (gen) and rear shore power. That is what takes up most of the space forward of the battery box in mine. Your setup looks awesome. Pondering bringing down the charger controller now. Would like to make some kind of shelf (super strut or plywood) to be able to mount the MP horizontally above the pipes or hang like the Xantrex with some extra support. To incorporate your idea of bringing the batteries inside and put on the same shelf build, would but so cool. Converting the slide out battery tray for tools/storage would be great. This setup would allow you to keep the forward storage area next to BR. Not sure about how to do the shelf properly yet, but getting closer. May just do it like yours. I have some time to think/plan since the battery decision is still up in the air. Thanks a bunch for posting pics and detailed explanation. SO much fun. Multiplus will be on order soon!

Yes, from my limited experience with VHB tape, yes, as long as you prep both mating surfaces with alcohol. But why not replace the screw in addition, since the hole is already there.

@Overland, true! But I am sure they are well made and would be a lovely addition to an already pure Victron system. The Lifeblue 200ah x2 still seem great (simplicity of drop-in, built-in bluetooth, free app that is very informative, size/wt, same cost as BB with easier install, has its own heater for cold protection) If you want 6-8hrs per day of AC, is it possible with less then 600Ah? Just asking, what your real world experience has been with 400Ah with impressive solar array. P.S. I really would like to see some pics of others installs. Just curious to see how others did their placement, wiring, switches, etc. You mentioned a thread that you had, where is that?

I stand corrected on the fitment... which is really cool! But, wow, $66o0 for batteries... that's a difficult pill to swallow. As for complexity, it is a bit more than just adding $130 BMS from what I understand. In addition, adding anything for me as a DYI is always something to consider because of not only cost, but space, know how, etc. But please update post if you end up installing the Victron's because I would love to see it and possibly install them if the install is not that much more involved. It would be really nice to have a complete Victron system. Thanks for the post.

Just went to the website. Wow. The dimensions listed are 9x12x6 so looks like 2 would fit. No BMS built in. Still, very attractive.

The new one will not fit. I believe, not easily anyway. Not sure about needing more than 400aH. Also, albeit, I love Victron but their batteries require a much more complicated install. If your are a DYI, the batteries that fit the tray and that have a nice BMS built-in like the BB or Lifeblue LFP will be much easier to install. Just realized @whatda, that you were looking at EU specs. Nothing available in this market works easily for 400aH except for a couple of brands or you do something custom as you have already stated. I am leaning towards (2) 200 ah Lifeblue’s. Built-in BMS with Bluetooth and free app that is really good.

2 of these would fit in the tray with room to spare: https://www.lifebluebattery.com/rv-boat-lithium-ion-batteries/200ah-lithium-battery.html For a little more, same thing but smaller with built in heater for cold protection: https://www.lifebluebattery.com/rv-boat-low-temperature-lithium-ion-batteries/200ah-lithium-low-temperature.html Handy comparison chart:

What about replacing Xantrex inverter with a Victron Phoenix 12/3000 inverter (same as in Multiplus) but without the charger. Then replace the charger part ($180) of the Progressive Dynamics Mighty Mini for Lithium specific batteries. So when you are plugged into to gen/shore power not that much as far as AC data via panel but easier install with all the benefits on the DC side. Thoughts? Or just do the Multiplus and essentially bypass the PD charger.

@Overland, That would be cool to see! Thanks

Yes, that’s part of the magic of a complete Victron system. All the components talk to each other.

Very interesting, thanks for Pics!

@Overland, thanks for the comments. I thought seriously about replacing the controller up top with a Blue Seas HD ON/Off switch and placing the new smart solar controller down below-plenty of room. Still might do it (the reason I used a wood board for install -easy to change setup- no holes in pantry wall) party because of reasons you listed. I am happy with the install though because due to the double hull (air insulation) and the nice R16 insulation throughout, the cubby does not get hot per se, although their is not much ventilation( but neither is there below) Also, running a cat-5 cable proved to be difficult the first time - didn’t want to do it again until I had to for the Multiplus. Speaking of the Multiplus, this is where I am still thinking - where to place it? Pics/comments on that? As far as the shunt and battery storage room. I am seriously thinking about a custom build with BMS that allows for much more room in the compartment or foregoing the pull-tray completely - since the LFP’s weigh so much less. Any suggestions, always welcomed. Also, if I understand your comment correctly, the battery temp is wired directory from the battery bank to the BMS and then transmitted to Color GX. All this is part of what I truly love about the TT customization. Oh, I did look at the Victron double face plate- it did not look like It would have worked in this application. It’s not just a faceplate but rather a faceplate that connects to a box. Not enough room. I did use double sided tape to install my FP so it should be easy to change if find something better, etc. Regards,

I have to admit it is probably more for looks looks and symmetry, although I do love old world analog devices in the days of high tech. Reading the manual, I got the notion of what you are talking about (it is very easy to get to and adjust though). I forgot about the fan, @John and @Overlander recommended. Very nice and safe with the kiddo's into everything. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00144A5HE/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_TefmDbHMBVMXP

@SeaDawg, took your suggestion.

Finished the install today. I have to say AmSolar may not be the cheapest but they sure put together a nice package that includes all the little things and have great customer service that includes a great wealth of information on their website. I was so happy to see 467 watts flowing into the batteries via the color screen and the online VRM portal. Now if only I could power up the AC without gen/shore power. I have a pretty nice Samlex hybrid inverter/charger/transfer switch that has been in a box for a couple of years now. I thought about trying to install it but will probably just wait and use Victron's version so everything plays nice and then the last big cost factor... Lithium. Solar is so much fun!!!

Mike Nashville, TN 2018 Elite II - Spirit of Adventure Hull #308 - Toyota Tundra

Wow, nice explanation! That matches what I observed when I got there. The shower drain valve was open and the gray tank was full (which had me puzzled until now) because the toilet bowl did not overflow. Thanks again.

Both valves were closed.

From what I saw, that makes more sense.

I know it doesn’t make any sense to me neither. The toilet bowl was clean and at normal level, the area around the bowl was clean. Since I wasn’t here to see the water flow, hard to say, maybe it slowly leaked out of bowl and filled gray tank retrograde through the shower. But both tanks were full when we came back. The only strange thing to me is the toilet bowl definitely looked untouched.

So all I have to say is thanks to a good neighbor at the campground and thankfully I had just emptied the grey and black tank, and that the Ollie is as waterproof inside as it is outside. I had hooked up the black tank clean out turned it on and got distracted with kids, dog, etc. we were getting ready to leave to check out the rest of the campground for the afternoon. We went back to our campsite after an urgent phone from the camp office to check on our camper. Like I said earlier, thanks to a fellow camper they had shut off the water coming from the spigot and helped a bad situation from getting worse. When we walked up there was water running out the front door and about 2-3 in had settled to the rear interior hallway and made its way all the way back up to the front door. After about an hour of bailing, cleaning and disinfecting I have to say it could have been worse. Not a drop in the basement. The shower drain valve was open and from what I saw when I came in, the sequence of water over-flow was not from up through the toilet but rather up through the shower drain, over the shower stall wall and into the hallway. SO hopefully that was our big one for this trip. Always an adventure. Sharing this to help others avoid the same mistake. On to the great state of MI to see my Dad.

Great RV campground, clean and fun theme park. Santa Claus, Indiana.

Fortunately, my nightstand drawer has a lockable clasp like the upper cabinets so it is not an issue for me. But my kitchen drawers seem to come open quite frequently, especially on long trips. Looking forward to seeing how the cordage works this week on our trip to MI.

I have have a Zamp 3-port SAE (one port open from factory, so it is easy to add panels) combiner box up top and the Zamp SAE outside connected directly to the battery. The only thing that you have to do is get an SAE reverses polarity connector for the outside, if using non-Zamp solar panel.

So I have been chewing on this for a while now and thought I would try my hand at a simple, yet effective, easy to use way to keep the drawers from flying open during travel. Bought some cheap self-adhesive (VHB) hardware and some small bungee cord. Voila... I hope it works. Easy to apply cordage and when removed just toss in the drawer. I bent the lower ones down to almost flush so hopefully they won't snag someone. The top ones can be used as hooks or left alone when not in use.