mossemi
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Posts posted by mossemi
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1 hour ago, Wayfinder said:
Now I'm getting upset because I thought I'd have upgraded to 5200 lbs axles, springs, brakes, etc,
After you get your axle as built sheet, go to Dexter's website and find the equipment you want or go to a local distributor and let them know what you want to do. FleetPride in Augusta is a Dexter distributor.
Mossey
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10 hours ago, Wayfinder said:
And No! There is no power making it to the inside fan switch.
Have you opened the 6" round hatch plate in the cabinet above the microwave and checked the switch wiring?
Mossey
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On 7/4/2024 at 8:29 PM, Wayfinder said:
Yes, #110 has the exact setup pictured above. Mike (forget last name) at the AL rally told me how to test my fan and power leading to it. I found that no matter what, there is no power going to the fan. I tested the switch and it appears to work as expected. I have not bothered to pull out the fridge, and/or microwave, to figure out there the disconnect is yet. I've lived with the fan off since I owned the trailer. I will be asking Oliver which to pull out first to trace the wire. I figure it's the fridge. Again, not knowing where it's connected in the cabinet. I wonder if it ever worked, even for the first owner.
Think of the 12V B+ and B- as 2 of the wires in at CAT5 cable, if data doesn’t get from the server to my desktop, what is the IT Department going to do about it. Verify the output of the server and the input at the jack in my cube. Look for the break or run a new CAT5 cable.
Your picture below has been marked up to show where the 12V power connects to the refrigerator in my Ollie. Yours may or may not be the same. Does your fan switch have power in and out? If so and the power does not get to the fan, I would run a temporary B+ jumper from the output of the fan switch to the in put of the fan. Does the fan work with the jumper? If so, there is a break in the in the original B+. I don’t think that the original B+ wire is at fault and it is probably the thermostat switch which is located in between the on/off switch and the fan as @jd1923 mentioned. Try following the B+ wire from the fan back to the on/off switch, you should be able to locate the thermostat. When you locate the thermostat, disconnect it and put a jumper between the input and output of the thermostat. My original thermostat had male spade connections and the jumper I used was about 6" of wire with female spade connectors crimped on. If the on/off switch now works, you can replace the thermostat or just use the on/off switch to control the fan, although a thermostat works much better and save 12V power. And forget about removing the refrigerator or microwave, just run new wire.Mike Mossey
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4 hours ago, Wayfinder said:
My axle labels are nearly destroyed by road & weather. I'll see what numbers I can see engraved somewhere.
I found the SN engraved on the rear side of the axle near the center. Take a damp rag and a flashlight with you and wipe the axle down, it should be visible. Mine was close to where the label used to be.
Mossey
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Looks like you found a solution to your issue!
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On 7/26/2024 at 1:15 PM, CRM said:
Also, each work fine as long as I have a good internet connection.
I have had similar results while trying to watch downloaded video without an internet connection. I have not tried using my phone as a hotspot, connecting my iPad with the downloaded video to my phone and then trying to watch it.
Mossey
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10 minutes ago, Dirt Duff said:
Is there a support bar down the middle between the panels also?
No center support, but the 2 panels are bolted to together along the length.
Mossey
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1 hour ago, Dirt Duff said:
Is the aluminum angle a simple "L" -shape? Or, U-shape channel?
It is 1” x 1” angle or L shaped. The solar panels are 58-3/8" x 26-3/8” and the angle aluminum is 26" long in the front and rear, centered so that there is 13” of angle on each panel and fitting between each of the stainless steel roof mounts. The angle is attached to each panel with two 1/4" machine screws that are about 1-1/2” long and a nylon lock nut.
Mossey
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On 7/16/2024 at 9:06 PM, rideandfly said:
If the axle label is missing, Dexter engraves the axle serial number on each axle. I gave Dexter the serial number off of one of Ollie's axles a few years ago and Dexter emailed this axle spec sheet back to me. With this information a Dexter dealer should be able to supply an axle built to original specifications.
It took awhile, but I finally found pictures of my axle label and although I had several pictures I wondered why they all had the same serial number. I went under the Ollie and found that I only had 1 label and it was on the rear axle. I then found the engraved SN for the front axle and it was the same as the rear, which I thought was weird. So I emailed that information to Dexter asking for an as built sheet and if tandem axles should have the same SN. Dexter sent back a single build sheet and never addressed my question about the same SN on both axles.
So the question that I now have is if anyone else has the same SN's on both axles and if that is Dexter's standard practice?
The attachment is for 2017 LE2 #193 which has the original suspension equipment
Mossey
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7 hours ago, Dirt Duff said:
3. What was used to bind the two panels together.
The 2 Zamp panels on our 2017 LE2 are 160 watt panels. They are joined together with aluminum angle front and rear.
Mossey
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30 minutes ago, rideandfly said:
LE2 (Dexter axle spring center) SC & weight capacity specifications, from information gathered, looks like only 2015 & 2016 LE2's axles have SC of 55.0" (so far)
The value of 55.0" is a typo, correct?
Mossey
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3 hours ago, Ralph Mawyer said:
John Davies used to pull his OEII with a 200 series Land Cruiser, but he's no longer online, so... in case someone else might be using the Andersen WDH with a similar truck...
I pulled our 2017 LE2 with a 2014 LC for 6 years and always used an Andersen WD hitch because the 2014 LC owners manual specified that any tongue weight over 500 lbs. required one. We bought the LC in 2016 because I wanted to order an Ollie in 2018, it was our 4th Toyota, its load capacity was 8,100 lbs. and it was a SUV. The fact that it needed a WD hitch was not an issue and never was.
We now tow with a F-150 and still use the Andersen WD hitch, because it’s required and I don’t think I know any more that the engineers at Toyota or Ford do about the capabilities of their trucks, so I embrace their recommendations.
Mossey
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I’m sure you’ve heard that necessity is the mother of invention. Nice solution to your challenge.
Mossey
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On 7/20/2024 at 3:29 AM, ScubaRx said:
I've been following the number of broken springs for over three years. All were four leaf springs and all have broken in exactly the same place and manner.
I remember we helped @Ken_Judy replace their rear street side leaf spring at the 2022 rally. Do you know if the street or curb side is the most prevalent side for a failure?
Mossey
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21 hours ago, Mountainman198 said:
Last I spoke with them this past Spring they did not. As they are a custom shop, might be worth a call to see if they would make a set. If you do call, please report back here what you are told.
Thank you!
@Gliddenwoods asked the question about increased hight and it caused me to wonder while I was at my keyboard.
And now a question for all of the Dexter axle spec sheet interpreters, please see the attachment.
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2 hours ago, Geronimo John said:
Always be aware that spring sizing can be too little or be "over sprung". Changing from 1750 to 2700 springs is a huge difference. Some at OTT have confidentially stated that they are a bit too "over sprung". But if your trailer is really heavy or your are a near full time boondocker then they likely would fill the bill well.
I may have missed this fact in this great 17 pages and growing post, does Alcan make a 4 leaf spring pack that would also work for a LE2 and still be a capacity upgrade?
Mossey
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On 7/12/2024 at 3:35 PM, jd1923 said:
It amazes me that since OTT created this defect, back when hull #110 was built
I’m not quite sure that OTT created any defect. It seems to me that Chris's 2016 LE2 was built to the axle specifications used on his trailer and have been in service for about 8 years without any problems.
Mossey
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@Roadlotus tows with a 2021 Nissan Titan XD.
Mossey
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3 hours ago, CRM said:
My order arrived yesterday and it *did* have the LED light included. Was a little worried with so many receiving theirs without one when buying though Amazon and Ebay.
My order also had the LED lite. Thanks for the heads up!
Mossey
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49 minutes ago, Boilermaker Chemist said:
I have seen posts about using a short cable or small bus bar to connect the switch directly to the battery post. That seems like a simpler solution than others I have seen.
Your disconnect needs are different than mine, so I choose a location under the rear dinette seat. I was interested in a disconnect switch in order to allow battery removal for a future battery upgrade and I wanted less obstacles in the battery box. It will work for your needs wherever you place it. I have some small pieces of 4/0 cable and I can make a short jumper if you provide the connectors and cover the shipping cost.
Mossey
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15 hours ago, jd1923 said:
I would not be able to use the switched power since it is not delivering 12V. I could run new wire from the junction below. In AUTO mode do these turn on-n-off with temp?
The fan and switch are the only active components in that circuit, so I would test their functionality with new wire. When I replaced my non working fan, I found the 3500 RPM operating speed a little noisy so I added a 12v PWM speed controller to slow it down. That's a possible hidden feature that test wiring would eliminate.
I do leave my fan switch on 365 and let the thermostat control the fan operation. I guess that qualifies as AUTO mode.
Mossey
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21 hours ago, jd1923 said:
It has the oddest thing, a power switch on the light panel. Why a switch, given it should be thermostatically controlled? The ON/OFF switch does not seem to do anything.
Hull 193 also has a fan switch on the main switch panel in the entry area. It is placed in the 12v B+ supply path to the fan. There is also an inline thermostat on the output side of the switch. My B- travels from the fan to the bottom left of the refrigerator compartment and connects to the 12v ground of the refrigerator. My thermostat was originally attached to the right end of the horizontal condenser fins just below the red B+ wire disappearing on the right side of the picture in your post. If you have a fan control thermostat it should be located on the red wire.
Mossey
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On 2/22/2024 at 9:50 AM, mossemi said:
I have been a Campendium user for several years. Last year they changed their membership policy and I added Roadtripper to my account. Roadtripper is a trip planning app. Roadpass is the key to enter into their premium membership program features. I use Campendium to find campgrounds and Roadtripper to plan my route and find things of interest along the way.
Is it worth the money? I try not to help people spend their money so I won’t say, but I will renew my membership next month. After all, someone has to stimulate the economy.
Mossey
After using Roadpass/Roadtripper/Campendium on a recent 6 week camping trip I have decided to cancel my subscription. I found it exasperating to use in its newest format and I switched to a Allstays Premium membership in the middle of our trip. Allstays and Campendium used to be free to use and I used both. I chose Campendium's paid subscription to begin with and was a happy camper until they completed their app migration.
Mossey
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Made in USA leaf springs
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
My older brother often said "that many hands, make light work".
Mossey