mossemi
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Posts posted by mossemi
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On 1/25/2024 at 12:57 PM, drfaux said:
Thanks Fellas - exactly the kind of info I'm looking for!
One other item I've uncovered is that Charging the Lithium from the Tow Vehicle is questionable in this arrangement ... anyone with thoughts? ... worst case scenario I can disable the tow vehicle charging (remove/cut the specific wire from th7-pin?) and, in emergency, recharge using a generator?
I added a toggle switch to the charge line. This makes it available for future use if needed.
Mossey
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If you presently have 6V batteries then they should be wired in a series and parallel configuration. I don't remember an offerings for 6V lithium batteries so you new 12V batteries will probably only require a parallel wiring configuration. That should be a consideration when choosing your batteries in order to reuse the existing battery cables if they are 4/0. I do not have any working experience the BlueSky charge controller, but I have heard great things about their technical support or perhaps someone will comment on that.
Mossey
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6 hours ago, jd1923 said:
are these thermostats capable of displaying actual temp vs. set temp?)
I am using a MicroAir thermostat and I don’t remember if it or the Dometic display the set and actual temps. I am old school, if the AC in running I just assume that it has not reached the set point or if Krunch says it too hot or cold, I can change it with an app, but usually just change it manually.
Mossey
And this is the Bluetooth adapter that I am using in the Cerbo GX, instead of the onboard Bluetooth adapter.
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22 hours ago, jd1923 said:
Thanks again @mossemi!
The only question I still have is how did you integrate your tank level data to the Cerbo GX? Did you use Mopeka or Ruuvi sensors (if so, how are they mounted)? Werw you able to tap into the OTT tank level wiring or panel? Or another method?
The following information applies to Hull 193.
SeeLevel monitors fresh, grey and black water levels and the battery voltage. In order to display that information on my Cerbo GX Touch display, a new SeeLevel display and a modified comm cable from the SeeLevel display to the Cerbo GX was required.
Mopeka monitors the propane level of the propane tanks and required a Mopeka Pro Check Universal for steel tanks for each tank to be monitored.
RuuviTag's monitor the temperature, humidity, air pressure and motion. I have 3 of this model in Hull 193.
The RuuviTag Pro is available in IP67 or IP68/ IP69 versions for wet and rough conditions. I have one IP67 model in the propane box.
Mopeka and RuuviTag sensors communicate with the Cerbo GX via bluetooth.
I am including some resources that may be of help.
Mossey
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14 minutes ago, jd1923 said:
More interested in Mopeka and Ruuvi
Mopeka only monitors the propane tanks. They are magnetic and stick to the bottom of the propane tanks.
RuuviTags are from Finland and that is where I got mine. They have been around long enough to be sold on the web. Check out the web site and compare packaging and photos. The black one with mounting ears is the 3 in 1 and is weatherproof. That’s the one I have in the propane box. My others are all white and the have silicone holders much like Apple Air Tags you find on Amazon.
Mossey
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Very fine craftsmanship and functionality, as we all have come to expect. Say hello to Mirna for Krunch and I.
Mossey
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2 hours ago, jd1923 said:
Mossey, this is so cool!
I'm assuming the 2nd pic is your computer screen (or smartphone) connected by Wi-Fi and VRM. Besides battery and charge data, looks like you have your GX device integrated to temp sensors placed in the cabin, fridge and other locations (I would place one on the incoming water lines by the rear wall in the trunk). Also, you tapped into your tank level panel or the sensor wires to read resistance for % full. Please confirm my assumptions. Thank you.
This also confirms @Ronbrink does not need a Bluetooth dongle with the Cerbo GX. If you have a Mod post on your installation, I sure want to study it. Also, please let know what temp sensors to purchase that can be read the VRM as you have shown here. Very nice!
Thanks for the kind words. Sorry, I don’t document my projects very well. The MOP's I’ve written have always been from my point of view and I have a difficult time writing them so everybody can follow my thoughts.
A little history of how I got to this point. My Xantrex 2000 ProWatt inverter failed in my second year of ownership and I wasn’t confident enough to start buying Victron gear and putting in a Multi Plus instead of another Xantrex. When one of my Trojan 105's failed, I moved to 2 Battle Borns and added a BMV 712. The Smart Shunt was not available and I never have really used the 712 display, it’s always been mounted in the below the seating/sleeping area’s. So I used an old cellular phone and Bluetooth to communicate with the 712. I also have tested the Bluetooth by moving the 712 display high and low and RF always propagate's better with elevation. Moving on, I used a Raspberry Pi micro computer and display running Victron software. That was a $400 experiment that just wetted my appetite for more Victron gear. Because I was already running Victron software, I was aware of Victron's plans to integrate SeeLevel, Mopeka and Ruuvi sensors and decided to upgrade to a Cerbo GX with a 7 inch display. The Ruuvi tags were the easiest add and the Mopeka was pretty simple as well. The SeeLevel required a new display and a modified Comm cable. Some place along this journey I also added a Victron MPPT 150/45 SC and two 90 watt solar panels and a third Battle Born. I'm never satisfied with the mods I do, so things are in a state of flux most of the time. And I failed planning one 0 one. Enough about my limitations!
There is a Ruuvi sensor in the fridge, on the kitchen counter, tie wrapped to the SS jack post and the fourth is in the Propane box for outside temp readings.I am adding some locations for information on items you mentioned. Victron's community forum is a great place for answers and don’t forget the Air forums. There are some very smart people there with Victron gear.
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1 hour ago, johnwen said:
You are absolutely right Mossey, I don't know how that last sentence in my last post popped into my head.....a very senior moment
Just wait until you get old!😉 It was a terrible incident and close enough to home that I do remember when it happened.
Mossey
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I sat through a RV Electricity presentation by Mike Sokol at the 2024 Florida Super Show last Wednesday. He recommended the Smart Plug and gave it a very positive review.
Mossey
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On 1/2/2024 at 9:03 AM, roguebooks said:
Where exactly can I purchase this 40 amp fuse and what exactly is it called? Can someone provide a link? Thanks.
Amazon of course!
Mossey
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5 hours ago, jd1923 said:
Not truly inflation, was just a joke
I appreciate your clarification!
Mossey
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On 1/15/2024 at 1:48 PM, jd1923 said:
Maybe I've gotten used to the 30% inflation manufactured over the last 3 years.
This link shows the Amazon price history for the Victron Smart Shunt. I'm not a math major but I don’t see a 30% inflation rate for this product.
Mossey
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16 hours ago, johnwen said:
You should be able to contact Girard if need be. I know their branch in Florida was closed down after their terrible tragedy a couple years ago.
I didn’t know Gerard had a Florida branch or that it was closed down. The Fiamma company makes several different RV accessories including the awning on our 2017 LE2. The included link has information detailing a 2017 workplace shooting at their factory in Orlando, FL.
Mossey
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orlando_factory_shooting-
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18 hours ago, 2008RN said:
Unfortunately I'm a day late and a dollar short.
I am familiar with that policy, so we’ll leave yesterday behind. Your DC - DC layout looks like it’s well thought out and executed. Keep us posted on your real world experiences and thank you for the 'show and tell'.
Mossey
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On 1/7/2024 at 11:22 PM, 2008RN said:
I am setting up two Victron 12/12-30AMP DC-DC chargers in parallel.
I just saw this YouTube video about the new Victron 50A DC-DC charger by Nate and Steph of EXPLORIST life - DIY Campers. It might be worth the wait!
Mossey
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Huh! I always thought that was an automatically resetting breaker.
Mossey
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@Ronbrink Any display that is on may be running on 12v, such as the smart shunt's Bluetooth radio you are communicating with while viewing the Victron Connect app. The propane/CO Detector is always on for safety reasons. The only way that comes to mind is a DC clamp on meter and start testing circuits.
Mossey
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On 12/31/2023 at 9:24 PM, mccc99 said:
Anybody else ever experience this?
I will say that @jd1923 has some very good information in his response to your issue.
I, like @jd1923, also do not under stand the 7 value in your EMS display's output. I only have 4 different values in my display and you are indicating that you have 5 values. Watch your EMS display before, during and while turning on the microwave. The display may have some different values during the error sequence.
Good luck,
Mossey
@jd1923 and I are on the same wavelength😮.
The following is from my manual.Note: If the EMS cuts the power to the RV it will show a PE code following the E code. This denotes the previous error or why the EMS shut down. Example: The EMS cuts power for low voltage on Line 1, and then the power is restored. The Error Code reads E 0, but the PE code reads PE 4 which tells the user low voltage was the reason for the EMS previously cutting power. This PE error code will be deleted when power is disconnected from the EMS.
So if the 7 value is a previous error, it should follow the E0 value in the next screen and read PE 7.
Mossey
Edit: I removed my reference to the Xantrex inverter due to the fact that @mccc99 never mentioned an inverter in his OP. I was multitasking during the Sugar Bowl and confused myself and probably other's as well.
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Thank you for the detailed reply. Hopefully your son will find the solution tomorrow. I don’t think it has been mentioned in the original or any follow up post about batteries, but when I am working with batteries I always disconnect the negative/B- cable first and cover the terminal with nonconducting material to prevent any unintended contact with a ground source which will re-energize the circuit. If I am removing the battery, I will then disconnect the positive/B+. I reassemble in the reverse order. I will add that some people place the battery disconnect switch on the negative side of the battery.
Good luck,
Mossey
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4 hours ago, Cort said:
We're camping a couple of hours west of Phoenix now - thanks again for all your help 🙂
Glad everything is back in working order and you were able to move out of the hotel! I do have at least one question, how was it determined that only one battery was bad to begin with? I don’t think you mentioned that in your initial post.
Mossey
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On 12/29/2023 at 11:51 AM, Ronbrink said:
I am still hopeful for a switch install, but need to first understand a ‘fix’ or ‘workaround’ for the anomalies experienced. I see where others have installed such switches, even directly atop the batteries, but do not recall any talk of resulting adverse conditions. Thanks for your valued input.
So I’m still thinking about your attempted battery cutoff install. And the forum is a tough format for troubleshooting, kind of like a visually impaired art critic In order to have the 12v lights fading on and off and the radio making strange noises after disconnecting the B+ cable, there must have been 12v somewhere in the trailer that wasn’t coming from the battery. So I have a couple of questions.
1. Was the house battery negative disconnected or just the positive? You didn’t mention the B- cable.
2. I hate to do this, but I assume the tow vehicle was not connected, correct?
3. Your forum signature states that you have a Renogy DC-DC installed, which I have no working knowledge of. Is it installed in the Oliver? Does it only work with the ignition on? Does it have the ability to store energy, maybe an internal capacitor?
4. You might try turning off all 12v breakers and removing fuses. Verify the power is off with the Victron Smart Shunt app or a DC clamp on Amp meter. Then remove the main battery fuse as a different method of disconnecting the 12v supply from the battery. At least you would be inside if the fireworks started again.
I’ll keep thinking of troubleshooting methods because I hate being baffled by the unknown.
Mossey
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15 hours ago, ScubaRx said:
Since my plan was to mount the main unit under the rear dinette seat, I opted for the remotely mounted one. When it came in, I was astonished at how butt ugly the readout was. I wanted it mounted where it was easy to see, but only if I wanted to see it. I mounted mine up high inside the cupboard.
My factory installed our EMS remote display was installed under the street side bed. This was a great location for me because I then got the choice of where to move it to. I found out while researching a new location that I could purchase another remote display and link both the displays together in a mast/slave configuration. Ultimately I just decided to move the original display to a more convenient location, as shown below. My normal new site setup entails testing all outlets available at the pedestal. When I have determined the outlet I will connect to, I’m pretty confident it will work at that time, so the inside upper cabinet location is fine for me. If at a later time a condominium moves in next door and interrupts our power supply, resulting in reduced voltage, all I have to do is move the picnic tablecloth and the display with an error chart taped to the wall above it, allows for pretty quick troubleshooting. And if it’s raining or snowing, I don’t have to go outside to verify the pedestal is providing the correct voltage
Mossey
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2 hours ago, topgun2 said:
AND -
Mossemi's "tool" is a bunch less expensive too. 🤑
That’s funny coming from "ol' squeaky" but does remind me, can I borrow that first dollar you ever made? I know you were saving it for a new fly rod, but I sure could use it for some new Victron kit!
Mossey
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Simple AGM to Lithium Conversion question(s)
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted · Edited by mossemi
Now it's time for true confessions, dang it. On the way to Lake Guntersville for the 2022 OTTO's rally, we stopped for groceries about 30 minutes from the campground. While Krunch went shopping I walked around the Ollie checking tire temperatures and the Andersen WD hitch chains and noticed that the 7 pin connector was laying on the ground. Apparently I hadn't plugged the connector in properly when hooking up the Ollie that morning. The cord had fallen out and the outer sheathing as well as the sheathing for 6 of the 7 wires inside had worn down to bare copper. We proceeded to the campground after a tape repair job on the wires and cable. I reached out to the Oliver Service Department while at the rally and they had service personnel scheduled to be on site and they were able to deliver a new cable to me. I did another temporary field repair to hold me over until I reached home. I added an outdoor rated junction box attached to the frame in the propane box and made a splice repair there, so that is where I added this toggle switch.
Mossey