thompsonkd

Yes, that is the same brand we used, but brush on as opposed to spray. Be careful to tape what you don’t want protected or you’ll ruin your circuit board!

Hello. Yes we have had the same issue with our fan. The fan began to open and close on its own, or not open at all. Friends who have a van conversion told us this is a know issue with MaxxAir fans. The fix is to replace the circuit board but first applying a specialized silicon used for electronics to the board. There are lots of YouTube videos detailing how to do this. The caveat is to be careful in taping off the parts of the board that should not have the silicon applied. We used a spray can of the silicon, our friends used the kind that is brushed on-probably doesn’t matter which kind is used. Regardless, the silicon is fairly expensive. We did that and it has worked so far. We also had the lift mechanism shatter, and we replaced that. Finally, the remote quit working and we replaced that as well. We use the fan all the time; it’s a great fan, just requires a fair amount of maintenance.

We were trying to decalcify our system the other day and put the valves into the Winterization configuration, but when we turned on the pump to draw up vinegar from the rear boondocking port, suction would not develop and we were unable to get vinegar into the lines. We were able to draw water into the lines from the fresh water tank after switching the valves to the Normal configuration. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions regarding this? Thanks in advance.

Thanks Jonwen, appreciate your response. Look forward to hearing what you say about the shocks after a bit of time.

Wondering if you or anyone else has recommendations for a brand of shocks. Sounds like you still like Monroe, despite the issues you have had; I have heard people also recommend Bulldog shocks but had trouble getting them? I think most Oliver’s come stock with Monroe. We are planning on replacing our shocks as well as the springs in the next few months.

I ran the generator and batteries topped off at 13.3 before I had to shut off the generator because of where we are camped. We have 3 Battleborn 100 amp lithium. While the generator was running, converter was working (fan was running) charging the batteries. Normally I would run the generator until the surge protector readout went to 2 amps indicating that batteries were fully topped off, but couldn’t, so will do that this evening. The Zamp Solar controller seems to indicate incoming solar at this point. I checked the 12 volt fuse under the street side bed and it had not tripped. I tripped and reset it to see if that helped. You indicated a 40 amp circuit breaker? -where would that be? I will check the battery cables next. Thank you very much for your help. This forum and the people that contribute to it is invaluable!

We plugged Oliver into our generator and everything works-Zamp controller, Progressive converter, all 12 volt systems came on with the generator. Last night the Victron battery app indicated 77%; around 3 o’clock every thing went dead-all 12 volt systems were down. The only large draw was the fridge, but it was on propane. We are going to fully charge the batteries and see what happens. Any ideas?

We are currently Boondocking-last night the entire 12 volt system quit. This morning, when the sun came up, the Zamp controller came on with an error code of 601. We have 3 100 amp Battleborn. Yesterday, it seemed that we were not charging well with solar, but I assumed it was shade. Regardless, last night, Victron battery app showed 77% battery capacity. I am going to run our generator to see what happens. Any ideas about troubleshooting?

We live outside of Asheville, about 35 miles. Total devastation in our county. Services have been knocked out; power, water, phone and internet. Trees down everywhere. Lots of bridges out. Many roads are simply closed. Topgun and Scotty live in Western NC; not sure how they are doing. We have been lucky-house okay.

Mossemi; realized I misspelled your name! I am going to try and post a picture of what our basement structure looks like. We are traveling and visiting family so it’ll be a few days. I appreciate your help. David

Missed, and others; basic question: I tried to access the pipes and valves in the basement-there’s a wood panel-what’s the easiest way to get that out? I took the screws on the bottom of the panel out, but the floor doesn’t easily come up! Do I just pry away? Thanks in advance!

Thank you Mossemi. Perfect, just what I needed.

Thanks for everyone’s suggestions. I tightened up the fittings again under the curbside bed and the pump quit running after pressurizing the system. Eventually I’ll check under the kitchen sink, and if necessary, the bathroom sink. I wanted to check the inlet pipes and fittings for the fresh and city water inlets, and the winterization port; what is the easiest way to access these fittings? Thanks again. David

For some reason our water pump keeps running instead of shutting off, suggesting a leak or loose fitting somewhere. I tightened all the obvious fixtures under the curb side bed and the problem has continued. I am not seeing water come out of the scupper holes, and I don’t see any moisture under the bed. My question is where else should I look for a leak, cracked fitting, or some other issue? Maybe a water pump issue? Thanking in advance for any suggestions! David

I am not confident that these pictures will show our lights…We have the older style switched puck lights in our Oliver. Road vibration caused the rim to come loose from the main body of the light. Nothing seems broken, and all the tabs on the rim seem to be intact. However, we can’t get the two parts to snap back together. Has anyone had experience with this? Or, does anyone know what brand Oliver used for this style light? I can’t find it online. Thanks in advance. David