thompsonkd

For some reason our water pump keeps running instead of shutting off, suggesting a leak or loose fitting somewhere. I tightened all the obvious fixtures under the curb side bed and the problem has continued. I am not seeing water come out of the scupper holes, and I don’t see any moisture under the bed. My question is where else should I look for a leak, cracked fitting, or some other issue? Maybe a water pump issue? Thanking in advance for any suggestions! David

I am not confident that these pictures will show our lights…We have the older style switched puck lights in our Oliver. Road vibration caused the rim to come loose from the main body of the light. Nothing seems broken, and all the tabs on the rim seem to be intact. However, we can’t get the two parts to snap back together. Has anyone had experience with this? Or, does anyone know what brand Oliver used for this style light? I can’t find it online. Thanks in advance. David

Previously, Topgun has mentioned that his remote switch for the Xantrex 2000 had quit working; he mentioned several fixes-snapping the connection to the remote switch in and out (accessible via the port hole in the pantry, cleaning the connections…Or replacing the switch. We tried all the trouble shooting and the remote continued to work for a while. Eventually, the switch quit and I replaced it. The new switch worked for a while, less than six months before requiring the troubleshooting techniques. Wondering if anyone else has had this situation with the remote failing so quickly. We need to use the inverter currently, so we just turned it on under the bed. A second question is are there any issues with simply leaving the inverter on for prolonged periods. Typically we turn it on only when it’s in use. Thanks in advance for any feedback. David

Galway Girl (Craig); thank you for posting this and very kind of you to offer assistance at the eclipse meet up regarding this. I had asked Craig about this at the rally and he crawled under my trailer to show me where the bolts were. And now he posts pictures with torque specs and all! Thank you. David

Hi Toby. We had the exact same issue, as have, unfortunately, many people who have had that model of Dometic refrigerator. We were never able to source the upper control panel and ended up having to replace the entire unit with a Norcold. Dometic was not helpful at all with trying to find the part; Oliver Service was very helpful but couldn’t turn up the part. There’s an extensive thread on the forum that talks about this issue. One suggestion was to repair the control panel yourself; that sounded doable but we don’t have the skill set for electronic repair. We had an RV shop replace ours and it was not plug and play. And, we invested in a very nice cooler, Polar brand, similar to a Yeti that allowed us to use the trailer before the refrigerator was finally replaced. David

Thanks Max Burner! Oliver actually called us about this(after we put in a service ticket) and told us the same thing. Service suggested either wire nutting one positive or going into the loom to find the single positive wire and connecting that. Appreciate your help. David

We have an 2018 Oliver Elite 2. Our Atwood CO/propane gas detector is out of date; we are attempting to replace with a Safe Universal CO/propane gas detector. The old Atwood has 3 wires, 2 red and 1 black. The new Safe detector has 2 wires, one red 1 black. Testing the wires in the Oliver that supply power to the detector we determined that both red wires are hot, and that they can power the new detector to function. How would we wire the new detector? Unsure why the Oliver has 2 hot wires feeding the detector. I don't think it matters, but when we put in new lithium batteries, we disabled the wire that charges the batteries through the tow vehicle. Thanks David

Anyone have any suggestions about camping in an Elite 2 at Chisos Basin Campground in Big Bend NP? The road in to the Campground is supposed to be narrow and steep. I’ve noticed that several Elite 2’s have camped there-we’d welcome reports! The trails out of Chisos Campground are said to be pretty amazing, and pictures of the general area around the Campground looks really spectacular.

We’ve noticed that our Progressive RV coverage, (we have USAA auto/home) have increased their rates about 20 percent. Curious what companies other Olie owners are using, and their thoughts on experiences with those companies. Thanks. David

Would someone who has installed the battery cutoff, would you mind posting a picture? Because of the way the batteries are wired together, I find it difficult to know which battery to put it on. Seems like the negative post is more of a favorite than the positive post?

I have a few questions re wheel bearings on our Elite 2: If the bearings are appropriately maintained, how long can they be expected to last? if the bearings are in for service anyway, is it worthwhile to replace the original bearings with Timken? The bearings on our trailer now are original to the trailer and are whatever brand Oliver uses. They have held up fine so far, and mechanics who have looked at them have indicated that they are decent quality. Thanks in advance. David

Thanks for the clarification. Makes sense. David

All great responses. Thanks. Seems prudent to test the power source before plugging in! David

Pete What type of external surge protector do you use? And, are there other recommendations from others for a small, inexpensive device to check poles? Thanks David

Good idea. Might bring up more responses. David

That’s helpful, Mossemi. So, to get access to the drain pans, the AC has to come off the roof, correct? We are beginning to think the drain pan may be damaged somehow, not allowing a full connection of the drain tube. Thanks David

Thanks for the pictures. They are very helpful. It looks like that expandable foam that seals the tube as it goes through the foam gaskets present on your AC, is not on ours. Not sure why. Condensate is definitely backing up from the cup, and following the tube into the trailer. Thanks again for the pictures. We’ll keep investigating. David

Yes John! That’s it! Thank you. Darn search feature just doesn’t work. David

Good idea about flushing the line with water! When you mention the soft caulking that’s around the two drain hoses…you are referring to the caulking inside the trailer, correct? That may be part of the issue, but the cup seems to be blocked as well. How would I access the tube as it connects to the cup, to make sure it’s clear, and completely attached? Once the housing inside the trailer is off, I can trace the tubes into the foam but can’t see or access the cups. I couldn’t see or access the cups from top either? Thanks again!

Water is running into the cabin of the Oliver, following the tube from that side of the Oliver. Water also runs down the side of the trailer from the cup on that side of the trailer. I put a towel underneath the cup and the capillary action allowed us to run the AC as a test for about 15 minutes. After the towel was saturated, water began to come into the trailer along the tube. The other side seems to work, and water travels the tube to the drain underneath the trailer. My wife posted a video on the Oliver Facebook page, and Jason from service replied, thinking that it was the seal between the cup and the tube. Thanks for your replies.

We are not having issues with our converter-we actually replaced ours when we went to lithium batteries. I was just trying to find a thread that Scuba Rx started about an issue with converters over heating. He talked about the need to inspect the converter to avoid the issue-the Forum search feature will not bring up the thread.

A while back, Scuba Rx posted about a safety procedure that he recommended for our converters to prevent the possibility of the converter overheating. Using the search feature, I am absolutely unable to find the post! Can someone point me in the right direction to find the post? Thanks David

Thank you very much for the ideas. We have taken the air distribution cover off, and used a weed eater line to poke around in the tubes. We ran the AC with the cover off, and determined that it was just one side that was blocked. Water seems to come out of one of the cups, and flows easily to the outside. I like the idea of a copper line-I’ll give that a try. Weed eater string is too flexible to really work. I actually took off the shroud up top, and there was a piece of styrofoam protecting the fins, so I took that off. Then there’s a piece of plastic that covers what I guess is a condenser? Anyway, at that point, I could see the cups, but couldn’t access them enough to clean them. I didn’t feel comfortable enough taking anything else off. I’ll try the copper line inside the Oliver, and if that doesn’t work, I think I am stuck. Seems like there must be an easy way to annually clean the cups? Water leaked out of the AC to the inside, but the position of the AC unit just put the water onto the floor-no problems.

We have the older style Dometic AC, and the tubes or cups that drain condensation away seem to be clogged. Water drips from the AC when running. How do I clean out the tubes, and I think that there are cups on the roof that also need cleaning? Thanks in advance. David

Thanks Chris. Actually found it, as you said, on the front. Our remote quit working so replaced it (ordered a replacement from Amazon), and the inverter works fine now. David