thompsonkd

Thanks Steve. My wife is a jeweler so this would be right up her alley.

Thanks Sherry. Looks like a good lead. I’ll call them tomorrow.

Hey Everyone-we are having ongoing issues with our Dometic fridge. We are working with a local RV repair shop who has diagnosed the issue as a faulty eyebrow circuit board, as mentioned above in the previous posts. When I wrote last, we thought the issue was resolved with Dometic sending a new board to the repair shop. Well, unfortunately, Dometic sent the wrong board and is now saying that they are not sure when they can send a new board. We are trying to figure out how to proceed, and have looked at replacing the fridge with a different brand. We are not keen on this, since the board that is faulty is only about 100 dollars and a new fridge is quite a bit more. Seems wasteful to just replace the fridge. We have: looked online, checked dinansour, looked at RV salvage yards and are simply unable at this time to locate a replacement eyebrow. We looked at the Norcold but that would require quite a bit of modifications to our Oliver. Oliver Service has been great, of course, and has helped us in trying to locate a replacement circuit board and could replace the Dometic with a Norcold, but it would be quite an expense. All of the above leads to 2 questions: in the absence of a replacemnt Circuit board, what fridge could replace the Dometic, without major modifications to our Oliver in other words is there a replacement fridge that is simple and easy to swap out? In the absence of a fridge swap, does anyone have any ideas about how to get an eybrow circuit board? For reference, we are looking for a Dometic Eyebrow Circuit board model number 4450007134. We were hoping to go ahead and replace the lower control board number 4450020612, if we can get it. Our Oliver is a 2018. Thanks in advance.

Thanks everyone for help with this issue. We just got a call from the RV shop we deal with and they finally got an eyebrow panel from Dometic. So we won't be buying Mountain Oliver's old Dometic fridge after all!

Maniac-no it doesn’t work at all. We can’t get any of the buttons to engage. We took it to an RV shop and they determined that the eyebrow board was not working. Mountainoliver- I definitely don’t want a whole fridge but might be interested in the eyebrow if we have a match.

Thanks Sherry. I did pm ScubaRx, and he gracious offered me the board, but it appears to be missing in action! I called Dinosaur, but their message system told me to email, and I got no response from an email. I plan on trying again to contact Dinosaur since I hear good things about their boards. I have not tried Adventure RV; I’ll call them tomorrow. I also plan on contacting Dometic again to see if I can get a ship-by date; Dometic is helpful once I get through to them, but they won’t budge on replacing the board under warranty and are vague about shipping dates. I actually like the fridge, when it works! I’d like to fix it, it’s not very old. It would be wasteful to not be able to fix the fridge because of a relatively low priced circuit board.

Hey folks...we have confirmed that the Dometic refrigerator eyebrow is not working on our refrigerator. We have been unable to secure one through Dometic (working through a repair shop) and unable to find one else where ( we checked with Dinasour electronics, and have looked online). Our repair shop is unable to give us a clear date on when Dometic can ship one. Any ideas?

Thanks for the responses re negative terminal on battery-the picture was helpful as well. David

Do you mean the stiff cable that connects the 2 front batteries?

We are having a bit of trouble with our seven pin pigtail connector; usual issue with moisture in the housing. I want to take it apart and clean it out with air and a brush. We were advised to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery when we did this though though; we have the 4 AGM battery set up with solar. Do I need to disconnect each negative terminal on each battery or just one? Thanks in advance.

Interesting observation. Since you are using the 3M now instead of the ASI, I wonder if a test with the Duragloss on the 3M is in order? Although it is early, what is your thinking regarding how well the 3M is performing compared to the ASI?

Overland: thanks for the detailed info re re-caulking. Curious as to why you choose the 3M sealer instead of the ASI 335 that seems to be popular on the Forum? Thanks.

Overland: I read on the forum that you recently redid the caulk on your Ollie. Can you give details on how you did this, and which caulk you ended up using? And how long did it take you? I’d be very interested in exactly how you removed the old caulk; what tool, which chemical you applied to help removal and what was most difficult about the process? Our Ollie is about 2 years old, and we have, following the directions of Oliver Service reapplied caulk over the existing caulk. But Service suggests completely re-caulking every so often, and we will either do it ourselves or have Service do it. Thanks in advance.

Thanks Sherry. We are probably outside of the warranty by just a few weeks. We’ll have to see what Dometic will do. We used to do a lot of tent/car camping and backpacking, so we are used to using coolers. We might invest in a better cooler, if nothing else as a backup to the fridge. Hopefully we can get the fridge working quickly.

Thanks again everyone. I think we have checked everything that we can; I actually got ahold of Dometic and they helped me to walk through the issue. It could be the lower circuit board, or it could be the eyebrow circuit board, but I can’t tell without more sophisticated electrical tools than I have. I am going to take it to a repair place that we use. If we need an eyebrow board I’ll contact Scubarx.

What’s PDC?

We haven’t hit it yet, but Kim jammed a butter knife into the on button to get more “traction “ on the button. It’s done this before, and then just started working. We figure it’s the eyebrow board, and are trying to find one. Any other ideas, let us know! Thanks everyone.

Thanks for the replies everyone. We have checked the fuse and the breaker, and the fridge is plugged into the outlet. We have tested for both 12 and 120 volts, and both seem to be working. We think it must be the circuit board on the fridge? Are there 2 boards or just the one? For those who have replaced their board, does it just snap out and in? Thanks again everyone.

Hello. We have a 2018 Oliver Elite 2, with a Dometic 3 way fridge. When trying to turn it on it does not respond - no lights come on the control panel. We have checked the plug, the breaker, the fuse - all good. We pulled off the panel on the top of the fridge and checked the board - nothing was loose. We are not just pushing buttons quickly - we know it needs patience - but we just can’t get it to respond. Any ideas? It is stored at a lot and we were trying to cool down the fridge before we headed on the road tomorrow morning.

Hey Everybody It was me who developed the health situation-driving home from the rally, I developed a lesion in my stomach and experienced a significant bleed. Apparently a developmental issue-it came out of the blue. I was able to get help, and am now home recovering. It was close. But the real story starts at the rally. The night before we were getting ready to head home, I noticed that my Dexter had 'flipped'. Lee very kindly came over the next morning and fixed the Dexter so we could be on our way. Then, driving home, the medical emergency happened, and I was wisked off to the hospital. This happened right in front of REI in Chattanooga. REI staff rushed out and administered first aid, called EMS, took our cat into their staff break room (where she stayed for several days) and let Kim park our Ollie in their staff lot. I was out of the loop so Kim put a few calls in and the Oliver flood gates opened! We had numerous Ollie people that were arranging services, calling, emailing and even offering to drive for several hours to actually drive our Oliver somewhere. Rick and Vickie Lepore, Topgun2, Tom Polite and many others, including the Oliver Service Department coordinated a 'rescue'. I was patched up at the hospital, released after a few days and we were able to slowly make our way home. I really can't express how much everyone's help and support meant. Please everyone, accept my deep gratitude for helping us. Having an Oliver is certainly special, not in owning an RV, but in being part of a group of people that are so kind. Let me know if there is ever anything that I can do to return the kindness! David

Thanks John for your quick response and many ideas. We particularly like the idea of the compression sleeves to make the bolts more secure. As a point of clarification, we are working with Rob Babcock, who built Pete's bicycle rack. We want to have a 2 inch receiver so that we can swap out our bike rack from the Oliver, to our Tundra. We are planning on using square stainless steel tubes, that will be mounted onto the side of the frame rails with a plate. I think that we will likely remove the diamond plate on the sides. We think that a side mounted rack would be more secure and stable. We are really enjoying our Oliver. Thanks again John, and everyone else on this forum-it is invaluable!

Not sure if this is the right place to post this question; we are building a bicycle rack and plan on mounting it using plates and bolts onto the side of the bumper. However, the diamond plate that wraps around the bumper is not flush against the bumper, so we would need to bend the diamond plate so that it is flush . What is the best way to bend diamond plate? Is there any risk of cracking the diamond plate when it is being bent? We noticed that most people mount their bicylce rack from the top-we felt that mounting it from the side using plates would allow for a stiffer rack and shorter bolts increasing strength.

Hey John We were glad to see your post re building a bike rack. After a lot of thinking and looking, Kim and I have settled on having a bike rack built. We had originally thought that we would have Babcock Metals, LLC build a rack like Pete had made, but are moving towards a different style that apparently was first made by Oliver. After talking with Rob Babcock he also felt that the second design would be more fitting for an Oliver. We are in the process of getting measurements and design specs to Rob. For those of you that don't know, Babcock Metals, LLC built Pete's rack-Rob Babcock is based in Utah. He is very open to doing custom fabrications and does very good work. The measurement that you are looking for is one that we will need for our rack, and will secure in the next week or so. Once we have numbers we will post them. We have bought a Yakima Longhaul bicycle rack that uses a 2 inch. receiver hitch and can be used on both the RV and our truck. We plan on using the rack for carrying two gravel grinder bikes and a Serotta road bike. David Thompson

Thanks!

Hull number 366 aka: Nomads’ Nest was picked up last week after what felt like an eternity of waiting during it’s production. We absolutely LOVE her!!! We spent 6 nights camping (1000 Trails/ Natchez Trace and Cumberland Mountain State Park) getting to know all the new systems and procedures and putting the beginnings of our personal touch in place. She is home now in Waynesville NC. May the adventures begin! Again, many thanks to all that share their experience and knowledge on this forum and on the Oliver Trailer Owners FB Page - both have been treasures of information and support for us already. Finally, I just have to give a big shout out to Phil, Anita and Rodney in sales - their customer service excels! Kim and David Thompson