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FrankC

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FrankC last won the day on July 1

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My Info

  • Gender or Couple
    Couple

My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Year
    2019
  • Make
    Oliver
  • Model
    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Twin Bed Floor Plan
  • Hull #
    461

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  1. I installed the EZ gutters and we’re into our 3rd year now with our Oliver and so far so good. They don’t keep the windows completely dry but they do drastically reduce the rain runoff from the roof going over the windows. Some people do install the gutter spaced above/away from the window by a few inches to allow easier recaulking of the window frames when needed. I installed mine right against the window frame. I’ll figure out how to deal with the recaulking issue if there’s ever a leak problem. I also ran the gutter all the way down each side to hold it more securely in place around the corners to prevent the gutter from lifting. I had seen photos from some owners that had only run the gutter just a bit around the upper corners, and over time the gutter lifted away. If you do decide to go with the gutter, unroll it and let it sit out in the sun on a good hot day for a few hours to let the material soften up and relax to make it easier to form around the windows
  2. Totally different than the Oliver 😆 The dinette is on the curbside and the kitchen area is on the street side on the Cortes. Not like the Oliver at all! 😆. Seriously though, as the old saying goes, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. The fiberglass composite material looks interesting, and if the entire inner and outer hull are layed up with the woven fiberglass composite fabric instead of chopped/sprayed fiberglass, it would be very strong.
  3. Thanks to Steve for the detailed explanation, and to Mossey’s point, true, the Lithium Iron Phosphate options are impressive for amp-hours vs. size and weight, but I’m not carrying the batteries around by hand 🙂 and we don’t boondock for extended periods like others, so I can’t justify the extreme cost of the lithiums for our camping style. The lead acid batteries are heavy, and old technology, but they are cheap, they work, mine haven’t needed much water maintenance at all, they don’t need pampered with a heater or cooling like the lithiums in cold or hot weather, I can easily get replacements on the road if ever needed, and because they are lower nominal full charge voltage, they do charge from my tow vehicle. Everyone has different camping needs. The lead acid setup has worked great for us.
  4. Keep us posted if you do a truck bed cover solar panel setup. I’ve been considering doing that as well. It’s a lot of square footage that could be put to good use generating electricity instead of just baking in the hot sun. It would eliminate the setup issue with the portable panel, it doesn’t take up any cargo space, and easy to get to the panels for cleaning or any maintenance/troubleshooting, and easy to upgrade.
  5. Ah, you are correct on the “usable” amp-hour rating. I missed that in his post. Yeah, I never let the batteries get below 12.2 volts or so, to make sure they never get below 50% charge. They tend to hold right around 12.5 to 12.6 when in storage for a long time (weeks). The parasitic drain from the television, radio, etc. doesn’t seem to be much. I store mine next to the house so I just plug in about once every 3 or 4 weeks.
  6. Updated: yes, mossemi is correct that it’s usable 280 amp-hour (if they are 140 amp-hour batteries) by sticking to the 50% discharge limit.
  7. They are PowerTron brand which is a Trojan sub-brand. The four 12v wet cell setup was an Oliver option when we bought our 2019 Elite II. Not sure about the amp-hour rating. Part number is PowerTron D24DC-140. But I can’t find the specs online. Looks like this model might have been discontinued. The four 12 volt parallel arrangement has worked really well for battery life when boondocking at overnight Harvest Host stops. We don’t have the inverter or factory solar. Just running the DC accessories (fans, lights, water pump) when boondocking so the battery running time has been great.
  8. Maverick, you mentioned you have 4 six volt wet cells. Mine are four 12 volt wet cells, in parallel, so plenty of amp-hour capacity.
  9. I should add that I have the 4x12volt lead acid wet cell battery configuration as a big reason why my portable solar panel setup works well vs. John’s concerns. Nominal full charge voltage for lead acid wet cell is approximately 12.7 volts. So my setup through the 7 pin connector can tolerate a few tenths of a volt drop through the wiring length. The controller on the Zamp portable panel has selection options for battery type. For AGM batteries, nominal full charge voltage is 13.0 volts. Not sure about lithium nominal full charge voltage but I believe it’s even higher than the AGMs. I know the lead acid wet cells get a bad reputation as needing a lot of maintenance but mine have been almost zero maintenance into our third year of camping. I check the water level regularly and they have only needed very small amounts of water once. When they do eventually needs replaced I’m still on the fence about which option to go with then.
  10. It can be used but you have to make sure the panel has a charge controller. Here’s what the setup looks like. As John said, it’s not the optimal setup but it works and it was a heck of a lot cheaper. About $1,000 for the panel with controller plus the 7 pin adapter I had to wire up. Plus as portable panels improve I can upgrade easily. As far as the distance issue it’s not much different than the tow vehicle alternator to trailer distance, and my batteries fully charge just fine from both my tow vehicle when driving and when using the solar panel at Harvest Host stops. As John described, wire gauge vs current capacity is heavily dependent on wire length, whether the wire is in open air or buried in a bundle, continuous or intermittent current, ambient temperature, etc. Chart below. My panel is only 140 watts so call it 12 amps max. (And I rarely see above 10 amps). John is correct though that for a very high wattage panel like the Oliver factory setup, larger gauge and shorter wiring is required.
  11. We didn’t order the factory solar panel option on our 2019 Elite II, so there are no holes or brackets on the roof. We typically stay at full hookup campgrounds. I do have a portable 140 watt solar panel with integrated charge controller that I use for brief stays at Harvest Host locations, connected through the 7 pin trailer wiring harness plug.
  12. The Oliver is pretty airtight because of the double hull construction and insulation, and the fiberglass interior surfaces don’t absorb moisture like carpeting or wood products do in other trailers, so with the windows and doors closed, managing interior moisture from showers, cooking and breathing is something that most Oliver owners have methods to deal with it. Condensation on the interior walls can occur with big temperature changes unless you use some easy solutions. Not severe condensation (we’ve never had it “dripping from the walls”), it’s more just that muggy uncomfortable high humidity feeling. But condensation can happen under certain conditions. Using the air conditioner or furnace can help depending on ambient outside conditions. Some use small dehumidifiers, others (including me) use DampRid, and some will run the MaxAir fan frequently, even with the furnace or AC running, just to get more air exchange. Always use the exhaust fans when using the shower or cooking. And someone posted this graphic to illustrate where the moisture typically comes from. As the old expression goes “we have met the enemy, and he is us”. And we have the hypervent matting and it’s worked great so far. No problems with moisture under the mattresses.
  13. Nice tow vehicle. I’ve been considering a 4WD conversion/lifted NV3500 as a possible future tow vehicle for our Oliver. There’s a dealer in Utah that offers the conversion using Nissan Titan parts. Would allow for some off road exploring after dropping off the Ollie at a campground.
  14. The keypad/code access has been one of my favorite features. If I’m out in the yard or garage and need to get into the trailer quickly, it’s nice to be able to unlock the door with the code, without having to go and get the key or the fob remote. And the key can always be used as well just like a normal lock. I do still keep plenty spare keys though in the tow vehicle and elsewhere. And the lock does go through a set of batteries about once a year.
  15. I received a promotional email from RVLock regarding their soon to be released Bluetooth Pro upgrade that will allow locking/unlocking the electronic RVLock with a phone app. Supposed to be backward compatible with any existing RVLock electronic locks. Looks interesting, and will still allow use of the keypad or key as a backup. I might wait a while though till they work out the early bugs. And it does state that it uses a DC power adapter. Who wants to go first?
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