ADKCamper

We have had the same issue on several of our cabinet doors as well. Ditto the advice above about using Blue Loctite (#243) or equivalent on the threads. I also noticed that the machine screws holding the doors to the hinges only engage with a few turns of the threads. I don't know if this is the same on all model years or not. I changed out the machine screws to a slightly longer one that engages more threads (and thus the Loctite thread locker *should* perform better). The jury is still out on this as I've only recently made this change. OEM screw size: M3-0.50 x 6mm long, stainless steel, Phillips truss head Replacement screw size: M3-0.50 x 8mm long, 18-8 stainless steel, Phillips truss head, with an oversized M3 18-8 stainless steel washer under the head. I ordered mine from McMaster-Carr, but you can likely find smaller or per-unit quantities from another supplier. M3-0.50 x 8mm Phillips truss head Screws: https://www.mcmaster.com/92467A119 Oversize M3 washers (9mm OD): https://www.mcmaster.com/91116A120

Looking sharp and ready to roll... Let the adventures begin!

Yup... good to check every now and then. We probably check it a couple of times a year. Upon occasion we have also found small plastic chips (which we assume came from cutting/trimming PEX tubing or threading fittings into tanks during the initial water system installation).

Sounds like a great start! Is there a video or transcript of Rodney's opening remarks posted anywhere ... for those of us who could not attend the Rally?

Welcome to the family! Let the adventures begin 🙂

Passed by an Elite II Sat April 13th on I-57 South between Mt Vernon and Benton IL... Washington State plates, "Urge for Going" on the back. Still kinda rare in the wild... this was the only one we encountered on the highway or in a campground during 18 days and about 4,000 miles through parts of NY, OH, IN, IL, MO, AR, TX, LA, MS, AL, TN (not near Hohenwald), VA, WV, MD, PA. Also saw a couple of Casitas, and a Park Liner; no Scamps or Escapes either. Can't always see the opposite side of the highway, so some might've slipped by undetected 🙂

I *LIKE* this idea 🙂 Join the Oliver community, meet folks, look at trailers, witness first-hand the depth, breadth and creativity of Oliver owners. Hand out business cards/brochures. Maybe even make a group presentation about the capabilities and culture of their own dealerships.

We have the bulldog coupler lock from Proven Industries. It is an impressive lock. We did not, however, purchase the puck lock from Proven Industries. Instead we chose an Abloy Protec2 PL-975 hardened steel puck lock from Security Snobs: https://securitysnobs.com/Abloy-Protec2-PL-975-Hardened-Steel-Puck-Padlock.html Its pricey at about $160, depending on keying options. Its possible to configure other Abloy locks to be keyed-alike with your puck lock with a little planning...

I have only used the same sizes as mossemi above for 24-12 AWG and 10 AWG (stranded in RV and boat). I don't know if there are larger ones available or not. Generally the Wago splices are in junction boxes or fixture enclosures. Crimp connectors for #8 and larger are on binding posts / bus bars and usually have some sort of protective cover over them...

I am a WAGO connector fan for circuits within their approved rating; properly sized crimp connectors and binding posts for bigger stuff. Clamps or cable ties where possible to limit vibration. I also wrap 2 turns of trimmed-down black tape around the Wago "levers" after making and inspecting the connection to keep those little levers from getting caught on something and opening up when folded back into their junction box.

Just to help narrow-down the timeframe for when the switch was made from the older 5,000 lb BD to the 7,000 lb BD on the LE-I model, our LE-I (#409, mfg in Nov 2018) has the 7,000 lb Class 4 coupler with the gusset and the correct label to match...

Thanks, Dave! Appreciate all of the research/experiments with your Elite... its earlier and slightly different from ours, but much more similar heating-wise than the Elite II's discussed in other "keep the plumbing warm" threads! Camp on 😎

Not sure how to do that, other than to take the total charge current (from the smart shunt via the Victron app) and subtract (in my head... I hate to do that LOL) the present solar charge current (again, from the Victron app) to compute the converter charge current... assuming there are no 12v loads active at the same time (which would result in 2 unknowns in the equation SolarChargecurrent + ConverterChargeCurrent -Active12vloadCurrent = TotalChargeCurrent).

Thanks, Dave for posting your experiment results! It would be interesting to see how the new/improved under-floor airflow performs at some lower outside sub-freezing temperatures, and whether there's any need to attempt to "balance" the under-floor airflow to obtain equal warming in the 4 primary under-floor locations of interest (water pump, outdoor shower, galley sink area and bathroom sink/toilet area). Your proposed mod is pretty easy to implement if it performs well in all locations in lower temperatures. Some have expressed concern in earlier posts about too much suction in the under-floor area bringing in cold/damp air through the under-floor drain scuppers. I have no idea how much under-floor suction you might need before this becomes a significant issue... I have been thinking about pressurizing the under-floor area with a fan in each of the 2 rear corner locations where you would have the new vents, and allowing that air to return via vents from under the bathroom sink area into either the bathroom or the adjacent closet area. Your approach is a little cleaner in that my fans would require routing 12v to the fans and providing an on/off switch mechanism (either manual or via a temp sensor or sensors under the floor)...

Thanks for the link... my PD converter does not have the LI/LA switch. I could replace it with one that does. I've been debating whether it makes sense to move the converter out of the fuse/breaker panel to a separate device. This *might* be something like a Victron Phoenix Smart IP43 Charger so that I could control & monitor converter-based charging activity with the Victron app. Apologies for the thread creep...