ADKCamper

There is also a hot air supply vent in the 2018 Elite bathroom, as detailed above. No return vent (yet) in mine, but there will be at some point when I get around to it...

That is a difference between the Elite and the Elite II's. There is no "long" ducting in the Elite; there's just not enough room under the floor to get very far. In our 2018, like @DavePhelps 2015, the furnace is under the side dinette's forward seat, immediately adjacent to the bathroom. There are 2 fan-forced heat ducts; one dumps directly from under that dinette seat into the aisle adjacent to the bathroom door and the other dumps into the bathroom space on the wall to the left of the toilet. The only return ducting as delivered is via a vent from under that front dinette seat (i.e. beneath the side dinette table) into the furnace.

Thanks @DavePhelps I will have to read-up on the Victron batteries... Looking forward to your report on this new configuration!

Our 2018 Elite I battery bay overall dimensions (without the tray installed) are 17-1/4" wide x 11-3/4"H x 18"D (only 11-1/4"H where the 1/2" aluminum block hangs down for the door latch). The tray inside dimensions are 14"W x 14-1/8"D x 11"H (10-1/2"H where the 1/2" aluminum block hangs down for the door latch). Epoch 460's (either variant) will still not fit, even with the battery tray removed. Should be able to fit two Epoch 300's without the tray, or one Epoch 300 with the tray. There's only 1/2" clearance for cable/lug above the battery when using the tray... which *may* require laying the single Epoch 300A battery on its side to provide sufficient clearance for a fat cable on top. Also note that a "without the tray" configuration will require engineering an alternate method for holding the battery(s) down.

Interesting crimp... somewhere along the way when I was moving most of the wires out of the battery box and installing (+) and (-) bus bars, I encountered an almost identical crimp... the lug actually rotated easily on the end of the wire! I have installed 2x Battle Borns in my son's van conversion, and I'm not a fan of the "upright tab" connectors. Bolting a big lug and fat wire to those tabs requires a bunch of additional space above the battery. Not sure how much vertical clearance your battery box has, but my 2018 Elite is pretty tight. The battery tray is smaller than in the Elite II as well... from memory something like 14" x 14.5" . The Epoch 420 mentioned above won't fit in the tray, and may or may not fit with the tray removed. I'm considering a single Epoch 300Ah, as you mentioned, replacing my current (2x) 6v 220Ah (in series) AGMs.

Best wishes for a happy holiday season to the entire Oliver community… Best group ever!

Yikes! Glad you were able to track this down before it got too far out of control. I've seen evidence of overheated receptacles in campground pedestals fairly often. I *assume* most of that is from loose/worn blade contacts, but it could also be a loose terminal screw connection. Either way, loose = higher resistance = heat. I'll be watching the camper-side connection more carefully now as well...

Ahh, yes... For older trailers without the PI EMS you are correct! However, from a safety perspective I'm not sure what the RVIA thinks about the resulting isolated (normally grounded) neutral / disconnected grounding conductor. A partial/full short to trailer chassis somewhere (due to vibration damage to insulation, failed appliance component, etc.) might result in a "hot skin" situation. Since we're mostly fiberglass that probably translates to hot frame, hot appliance enclosure, or the like. I hadn't thought about this before... but a possible remediation to this risk might be to either (1) ground the generator / trailer combo when not attached to commercial shorepower (forcing a breaker trip if a sufficient short should occur), or (2) use one of the in-line GFI units designed for generators / extension cords on construction sites to interrupt the power in the case of any small current leak to somewhere other than the neutral return wire, or maybe even both of these? Are there any RVIA/NEC code gurus here?

Either way you'll need both receptacles; absent an additional Y-adapter of some kind... one receptacle to power the camper load and the other for the neutral/ground shorting plug to keep the Progressive Industries surge protector/power quality checker happy 🙂

We currently have the Honda EU 2200i Companion model. Yes it has a 30 amp receptacle, but unless something has changed since we purchased ours it is not a TT-30 straight-bladed receptacle matching the shore power cord. It is a NEMA L5-30 3-prong twist lock receptacle... so you will need an adapter to use the common 30A shore power cord configuration with the Honda EU 2200i.

Yes, blew out all lines, inlets and outlets with low pressure air prior to introducing RV antifreeze. The difference this year was I left some antifreeze in the toilet bowl. Usually I drain the antifreeze from the bowl into the black tank and leave toilet valve lubricant in the bottom of the bowl. There was likely more "antifreeze fumes" than usual in the air with what was left in the toilet bowl. Our RV antifreeze this year was also the "Champion" brand from Camping World, as shown above...

Seems to be a recurring theme... same thing happened to our unit yesterday. Just replaced the original Atwood detector with an RV-Safe detector in April due to the Atwood repeatedly false-alarming. Worked fine all season. Shortly after winterization (maybe an hour?) it went into (CO) alarm and would not stop. Tried 'reset' twice and it began to alarm again shortly after the reset each time. Propane turned off for 2 weeks, no appliances running, RV anti-freeze in the toilet, traps and water lines. Fortunately we are done camping for this season, so I pulled the fuse and visibly tagged the detector as "OFF". If we had had to winterize at elevation this month while still camping, this would be a bigger issue. Sounds like a design flaw???

Greetings to the Elite II seen heading eastbound on I-70 near Cisco, UT around 10:45am MT on Sun Sept 22nd. We were westbound, same location in an Elite I…

We have solar and a 2000W Xantrex inverter, but do not carry an electric coffee maker. Like @MobileJoy we use a tea kettle on the LP stovetop and a Melita pour-over cone & paper filter into a stainless thermos bottle each morning. Our son boils water on the cooktop and uses a french press. Choices abound 🙂

We haven't been into Canada since before the pandemic. In addition to the information above, suggest checking into the current rules regarding transporting fresh fruits and vegetables or alcohol across the border. In recent history it has been prohibited to transport firewood across the border, due to concerns over the migration of invasive species (like the emerald ash borer, spotted lanternfly, etc.). I am uncertain whether certified, kiln-dried firewood like that sold in many grocery stores is permitted or not. Canada is a great destination to visit or camp. Enjoy your trip!