Jump to content

ADKCamper

Members
  • Posts

    50
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

ADKCamper last won the day on December 6 2021

ADKCamper had the most liked content!

My Info

  • Gender or Couple
    Couple

My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Hull #
    409
  • Year
    2018
  • Model
    Legacy Elite
  • Floor Plan
    Standard Floor Plan

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

ADKCamper's Achievements

Apprentice

Apprentice (3/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator Rare
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In
  • Week One Done

Recent Badges

61

Reputation

  1. We have a late-2018 Elite with the (2) Lifeline 6v AGM's... now in year 4 and still holding up well. We will probably switch to lithium when these die. Yes, as mentioned you can change the Zamp solar controller charge profile. However, our 60A Progressive Dynamics PD4060CSV converter (bundled in with the breaker panel under the side dinette) does not support a lithium charging profile. Battleborn (and I'm sure other places) sells a replacement PD4060LICSV converter with a lithium charge profile. The converter swap-out is pretty straight-forward. A year or so ago I saw them on sale for about $187... I haven't looked lately, and almost everything is more expensive now!
  2. Great photos of great locations and great trailers! We hope to camp at many of those same locations at some point as well... All the best to you and Susan!
  3. At least in our 2018 Elite I, the battery compartment is indeed smaller than in the Elite II, nominally holding 2 batteries of "normal" size. Lithium was not an option when we purchased our Elite I. We have the high-tech upgrade for that time - two 6V 220Ah AGM batteries in series, with (2) 115 W solar panels on the roof and the 2000W Xantrex inverter. We are by nature pretty frugal regarding our electrical consumption. We rarely use the inverter, and the Air Conditioner is not on the inverter circuit (which wouldn't have enough power from the AGM batteries anyway...). We camp a lot in the Northeast with partial-to-full shade and cloudy weather and can't always recharge to 100% every day. Its not unusual to be at 80-something percent at end-of-day under those conditions (as long as we're not using the furnace overnight and run the fridge on propane). We do carry a small generator but so far have not needed it to recharge the batteries. Newer lithium options should provide additional electrical "range of discharge" while waiting for a sunny afternoon to come along.
  4. We have a very similar curved leveler from one of Anderson's competitors... Beech Lane. It is black instead of orange, *slightly* less expensive (but not significantly so), same max 4" lift, rated at 35,000lb instead of 30,000lb for the Anderson (again, not a significant difference for trailers in the Oliver weight class). Same/similar lifetime warranty (we didn't read all the fine print). They're spec'd/sold by an American company but it looks like they're made overseas somewhere. They're sold in one and two-packs. We gave them the edge back in 2018 based upon some online reviews that *claimed* they were less likely to break than the Anderson model. Our Beech Lane's work fine and have not broken, but we've never had the Andersons, so I can't confirm or refute that claim. References: https://www.beech-lane.com/camper-levelers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PPC57T7?ref=myi_title_dp&th=1
  5. Thanks, JD for the comment you found from Vornado Consumer Service. I agree there's likely a preponderance of legal risk management going on there. People run 1500W hair dryers on GFCI's in bathrooms all the time. RE Vornado's comment "GFCI outlets not only protect against ground faults (arcing)..." As I'm sure you know (but apparently Vornado Consumer Service doesn't), ground faults are not necessarily "arcing"... which is of course why the newer AFCI's were developed. In my opinion the design of AFCI's is still a work in progress, but that's a discussion for another time. Good news is there is not (yet) an AFCI in my trailer 🙂 I also agree with routlaw regarding 4-season camping in the Olivers. I've lived and camped for years in several locations in central and northern NY State, and while our weather isn't as consistently cold as in Montana, it certainly gets there from time to time. Sometimes we just have to bite the bullet and winterize the trailer's water and waste systems, and pay attention to the (lithium) battery temperatures...
  6. I like the idea of being prepared for a potential furnace failure, so thanks for all the useful information! Interesting observation - after reviewing the specs on quite a few Vornado models, it appears that *all* of the Vornado User Guides specify that the Vornado heater is not to be used on a GFCI protected circuit. I don't know why that would be the case, unless they leak current to ground somehow (even though many models have only 2-prong plugs) instead of returning on the neutral line. At least in our Elite, all of the 120V receptacles are GFCI protected, which suggests that the Vornado should not be used in the trailer???
  7. Hmmm... similar vintage here (#409, late 2018) so also wondering how to inspect. Would like to see more pictures or video if possible to understand what I'm looking for. Will take the "mirror on a stick" and a flashlight next time I visit the storage unit to try and see the burner area deep inside.
  8. Deltran (Battery Tender) has several models that support either 6v and 12v, or just 6v. They are rated for wet cell, gel or AGM. Battery Tender for both regular and maintenance charging: SKU: 022-0211-DL-WH 6/12V, 1.25Amp, https://www.batterytender.com/Battery-Tender-6V-12V-1.25A-Selectable-Battery-Charger SKU: 022-0202-COS, 6/12V, 3.0Amp, https://www.batterytender.com/Battery-Tender-6V-12V-3A-Selectable-Battery-Charger_7 SKU: 022-0209-BT-WH, 6/12V, 4.0Amp, https://www.batterytender.com/Battery-Tender-6V-12V-4A-Selectable-Lead-Acid-Lithium-Battery-ChargerBattery-Tender-6V-12V-4A-Select (both 6/12V for wet cell, gel, AGM or 12V only for Lithium) Small/lighter/cheaper Battery Tender Junior for lower-rate charging and maintenance charging SKU: 022-0196 6v , 1.25Amp, https://www.batterytender.com/Battery-Tender-6V-1.25A-Battery-Charger_2 I've used both 022-0202-COS and 022-0196 for AGM maintenance charging during winter storage, beginning with the batteries mostly charged, maintenance charging the 1st battery for 1 week, then letting the 1st battery rest for 3 weeks while I used the charger to maintenance charge the 2nd battery for 1 week (our Elite only has 2 6V AGM's), as described above. Repeat charging sequence each month in storage. I have 3 years on this initial pair of AGM's... and so far no issues 🙂
  9. Some observations regarding the window seals on our Elite: The exposed top width of the seals on the rear emergency / escape window is about 3/4", while the exposed top width of all the other window seals is about 1" (0.960" according to Pellandent). I haven't pulled the rear seal out, so I don't know if the ID is the same 1/2" that it is for all of the other windows, or not. I also didn't see any 3/4" (top exposure) window seal on the Pellandent website... so... do folks trim the 0.96" top exposure down to 3/4" with a razor knife before installing, or what? After measuring the length of the window seals on my 2018 Elite, noticing the varying lengths of window seal to purchase being recommended above, looking at photos of the Elite and Elite II, and taking into account the option of replacing the emergency/escape rear window (or not), I can only conclude that the windows on either side of the rear dinette/bed area are larger on the Elite II than they are on the Elite. Approximate window seal length measurements for my 2018 Elite are as follows: Rear Emergency/escape window: 3/4" wide top exposure, 47" long Curbside bed window: 1" wide top exposure, 39" long Streetside bed window: 1" wide top exposure, 39" long Streetside dinette window: 1" wide top exposure, 57" long Bathroom window: 1" wide top exposure, 24" long Total 2018 Elite window seal length (not including rear emergency/escape window): 159" = 13'3" Total 2018 Elite window seal length (including rear emergency/escape window): 206" = 17'2" So for all windows on a 2018 Elite, *assuming* we can use the same size seals for the rear emergency/escape window, 17'2" (plus a little bit of spare... rounding up to 18' as recommended above) should be enough. The Elite II *appears* to have larger rear dinette/bed windows, likely with 57" seal lengths, so the 21' measurement referenced above *should* be sufficient for the Elite II. I don't have an Elite II handy to personally measure, so if someone with an Elite II can confirm this window measurement assumption, that would be helpful for the sake of clarity. Echoing what many others have already said... thank you so much for documenting and sharing "everything Ollie" 🙂
  10. These are the connectors I used to avoid cutting the TV's OEM power cord and also to make the whole switch assembly easily connector-removable: https://www.amazon.com/Pigtail-Female-Connectors-Security-Adapter/dp/B07C7VSRBG/ref=pd_sbs_328_2/147-5472012-5513723?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07C7VSRBG&pd_rd_r=4d4a4233-ce04-4370-a00b-c599dcee81af&pd_rd_w=auQA9&pd_rd_wg=FsjF2&pf_rd_p=52ff3488-8ecd-4341-9663-52e4fb00f500&pf_rd_r=TX8N0D8R7FK6E6ANGQS2&psc=1&refRID=TX8N0D8R7FK6E6ANGQS2 Not exactly heavy duty either... the wire is very fine and definitely not 18 AWG as the Amazon listing claims. Works with the Jensen JTV24DC 12v television in our 2018 Elite. If you have a different TV, you may need a different connector or beefier wire size...
  11. Switch was indeed from Amazon.Its rated for 12VDC at either 5 amps (according to Amazon) or 7 amps (per the packaging), so make sure that's consistent with the current draw of your TV or whatever other device you're switching... Not exactly heavy duty, but easy to replace if/when it dies... just unplug it and put the original power cord back into the TV power input jack. https://www.amazon.com/button-switch-universal-driving-lights/dp/B07G17HWW8/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=JIANFA+Car+Push+Button+Switch&s=industrial&sr=1-2
  12. Thanks! The dimming stickers look interesting & worth a try! We have an Elite with less solar / battery capacity, so phantom current draw is more of an issue than it is for the Elite II's. We replaced the factory USB charging outlets with higher capacity ones with no LED; less phantom current draw and faster charging. We put a rolled up pair of socks in front of the surge protector display in the upper rear attic compartment 🙂 We also added an in-line on/off switch to the TV in between factory power cord and the jack on the TV, which was very bright and in-our-face all night since we sleep "sideways" in the smaller Elite. It kills the light when we're not using the TV, is easy to turn on/off, and eliminates yet another phantom current draw.
  13. We used to have a front mount hitch on the family truck when I was a kid... back when trucks actually had steel front bumpers 🙂 At one point I did read another thread discussing front mount receivers. All of the commercial ones that I've seen have at least some of the structural components stick down too low (below the factory air dam) on the front of my un-lifted Silverado 1500. I already have occasional clearance issues with backcountry sites either above or below road grade, so I can't tolerate giving up any of my current ground clearance... maybe if I switched to the Silverado 2500 HD 🙂 I did see a reference to a custom-built receiver that directly replaced a tow-hook, since discontinued. An ideal scenario would be (2) 2" front receivers, each attached where one of the tow hooks currently are, with a "cross-bar" attached between the 2 receivers (and in front of the plastic bumper), and the ability to pin-locate a hitch ball anywhere between the left and right receiver locations, without protruding below the front air dam. It would need to support at least a 700 lb tongue weight (i.e. either model Ollie or our 6600 lb boat / trailer) both from a hitch design and front suspension perspective. Practically speaking, I only fully load up the RV bay with the winterized boat and the Ollie once each fall. Maybe at some point I'll get that beefier truck with the bigger engine and the higher ground clearance that won't fit in my garage any more 🙂
  14. For the first time we rented an RV storage bay this year. Initially we thought we would need a trailer tongue dolly to precisely position a boat and the Ollie in the same bay with limited clearance. It turned out that with patience and a lot of getting out of the truck to repeatedly check clearances I was able to do it with the truck, so I never purchased a trailer tongue dolly. However, I did a bunch of research on trailer tongue dollies in case I could not maneuver the truck enough to fit both units into the RV bay. Although expensive, it looked to me like the Airtug is the safest and most capable /robust one out there. They have both electric and gas engine models rated for 8,000lb or 15,000lb. Originally designed to move small aircraft, they have a modified version for trailer hitch ball mounts. https://airtug.com/product-category/trailer-mover-tugs/ If moving exclusively on the level, the 8,000lb unit would be fine for either Ollie. If you have any significant incline to deal with (literature mentions inclines as low as 3%-5%) you might want the beefier model to be able to handle the increased load. Tom
  15. And... assuming you want AGM battery technology (vs wet cell lead-acid or lithium), the 6V AGM's are already quite heavy (66 lb each for Lifeline GPL-4CT's) so you probably won't enjoy lifting/moving 12V AGM's around if for instance you take them out annually for winter storage.
×
×
  • Create New...