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ADKCamper

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ADKCamper last won the day on September 2 2019

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  • Gender or Couple
    Couple

My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Year
    2018
  • Model
    Legacy Elite
  • Floor Plan
    Standard Floor Plan
  • Hull #
    409

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  1. Similar experience... our fridge cord also came unplugged, twice now. I blame the most recent occurrence on a very long stretch of rough interstate pavement with patches on patches. Used a flashlight and a mirror-on-a-stick to see what was going on behind the cabinet's rear wall. This time I tie-wrapped the cord (near the plug end) down to something solid. We'll see how that holds.
  2. Our 2018 Elite I is finally out of winter storage... our axle ubolt-to-frame clearance is 1-1/32" on the curb side and 1-1/8" on the street side (with trailer "dry", level front-to-back, and no gear loaded). Rear spring shackle is the proper "longer" Dexter HD variant for the single axle Elite I (3-1/8" center-to-center bolt holes, 4-5/8" overall length). Bushing is installed on the leaf-spring end of the shackle only. I'm not sure what the reason is for the discrepancy in clearance height between street-side and curb-side. Our driveway is slightly out of level side-to-side, so maybe that
  3. Thanks, Longstride! Love to hear the loons calling in the evening when sitting around the campfire or drifting off to sleep. We have our share of pot-holes here in central NY State as well 😞 Our Ollie should be out of storage in 2-4 weeks and I will be able to measure the clearance then. Will also check out our spring shackle dimensions compared to the Dexter K71-358-00 kit referenced above. Hoping to get camping again soon... we definitely didn't get in enough "Ollie Time" in 2020!
  4. I can't measure right now as our 2018 Elite I is currently in winter storage. Looking at a couple of photos from 2019, it looks (at least from the angle taken) that we have a bit more clearance than the 1/2" described above, but not a lot. There is some evidence of minor "bottoming out" events visible. Over time we have become better at anticipating such events and adjusting speed and trailer positioning relative to obstructions accordingly.
  5. We have (2) Lifeline GPL-4CT 6V 220Ah AGMs in our 2018 Elite-I. This is what Oliver was using with the Solar option late in 2018. At the risk of tempting fate they've performed well so far, although its only been 2 years.
  6. Our Ollie (Elite-I) is in winter storage now, but last fall I scoped out the route of the pink BAS feed to help me understand what's what if I ever got to the point where I could install EOH disc brakes. On my Ollie the pink wire goes from the battery side of the 20A self-resetting breaker on the tow vehicle 12V charge line (street-side,, adjacent to the wheel well) into a bundle of split-loom protected wires. It exits the hull from the bottom of that bundle somewhere very close to there, and comes out right above the street-side end of the axle. From there (also covered by split-loom) it goes
  7. So it might be worth a try electrically, without major modifications, if I get that far :) Max PSI is 1600 for disc brakes, so that draws more current than at 1000 PSI as shown on the chart, but unsure how often/for how long full pressure is actually reached. Some experiments would be in order with a clamp-on dc ammeter and a handful of fuses. I hope not to be driving with the trailer in below-zero (deg-F) temps, so that helps. If necessary I could also try a slow-blow 40A fuse in the tow vehicle 12V charge line. And... maybe if the Hydrastar sucks too much current the voltage at the trai
  8. Disc brakes have been on my wishlist for a while as well. I have an Elite with the 5200lb axle, which I would want to swap out for the same size axle but with E-Z Lube spindles and idler hubs, plus the Kodiak disc brakes and Hydrastar electric-over-hydraulic controller. I have previously swapped surge drum brakes on a boat trailer for Kodiak disks... they performed wonderfully but it was an easier task than changing over the Oliver. I am uncertain where I would locate the Hydrastar controller... I mocked up a cardboard Hydrastar and there is definitely not enough clearance in the Elite-I
  9. Had a similar experience with our Elite (#409 - late 2018) shortly after pickup. Fridge was working fine on AC at first, then it wasn't... After a bunch of poking around I discovered the AC plug was dangling almost out of its receptacle, which was located on the curbside wheel well (to the left of the refrigerator as viewed from the outside lower vent panel) behind a foil-sealed "plastic cardboard" panel. It was tricky to get in there without messing up that panel. No way to tell if that plug was initially fully seated or not. Haven't had a problem with it since. I'm surprised that such a "bur
  10. We typically don't use it when parked in our own driveway, but everywhere else we do. Just like electrical "surges", you will never know when you need it until its too late...
  11. So-called "parasitic loads" could also (collectively) be keeping you just shy of a full charge. Depending on your configuration, you could look for things such as: Inverter "powered on" but not being used (we turn off the remote switch *and* the switch on the inverter itself when not in use) Water pump left on (even though not being used) Truma (for us) water heater 12v controls left on (remote switch inside and 12v controls switch outside on the heater) Of lesser concern, and not enough by themselves to inhibit a full charge status, but possibly "adding to" the load
  12. Ditto BackofBeyond's comment regarding adapter(s). Depending on which receptacle you use from the pedestal, each one may or may not be wired correctly, independent of the others. The testers referenced above will go into a 5-15 or 5-20 GFCI receptacle, but require an adapter for the 30A (TT-30) or 50A receptacle if you are using one of those (which is most common).
  13. Ugh! In the beginning... the lead-acid battery *was* the voltage regulator. Now that modern battery technology has become somewhat independent of the traditionally accepted range of the nominal 12VDC we are used to, perhaps its time to suggest a design improvement... to include a "whole house" DC voltage regulator (or maybe just a voltage limiter) which feeds a master 12V "loads busbar", and connect all of the charging sources on the "battery side" of the new DC voltage regulator (i.e. to a "charging busbar"). Not sure where to find an affordable/efficient one with a capacity for maybe 10
  14. Positive and negative busbars are essentially complete, except for some cable ties here and there. There are now 6 fewer cables connected to the batteries with just the (2) 4/0 cables, Zamp battery temperature sensor and Victron battery midpoint sensor remaining. Much cleaner looking. I still haven't finished connecting the Victron battery monitor (shunt is installed though). I'm waiting on parts for mounting the positive busbar's ANL fuse and master battery disconnect switch.
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