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ADKCamper last won the day on September 2 2019

ADKCamper had the most liked content!

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My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Year
  • Model
    Legacy Elite
  • Floor Plan
    Standard Floor Plan
  • Hull #

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  1. So it might be worth a try electrically, without major modifications, if I get that far :) Max PSI is 1600 for disc brakes, so that draws more current than at 1000 PSI as shown on the chart, but unsure how often/for how long full pressure is actually reached. Some experiments would be in order with a clamp-on dc ammeter and a handful of fuses. I hope not to be driving with the trailer in below-zero (deg-F) temps, so that helps. If necessary I could also try a slow-blow 40A fuse in the tow vehicle 12V charge line. And... maybe if the Hydrastar sucks too much current the voltage at the trai
  2. Disc brakes have been on my wishlist for a while as well. I have an Elite with the 5200lb axle, which I would want to swap out for the same size axle but with E-Z Lube spindles and idler hubs, plus the Kodiak disc brakes and Hydrastar electric-over-hydraulic controller. I have previously swapped surge drum brakes on a boat trailer for Kodiak disks... they performed wonderfully but it was an easier task than changing over the Oliver. I am uncertain where I would locate the Hydrastar controller... I mocked up a cardboard Hydrastar and there is definitely not enough clearance in the Elite-I
  3. Had a similar experience with our Elite (#409 - late 2018) shortly after pickup. Fridge was working fine on AC at first, then it wasn't... After a bunch of poking around I discovered the AC plug was dangling almost out of its receptacle, which was located on the curbside wheel well (to the left of the refrigerator as viewed from the outside lower vent panel) behind a foil-sealed "plastic cardboard" panel. It was tricky to get in there without messing up that panel. No way to tell if that plug was initially fully seated or not. Haven't had a problem with it since. I'm surprised that such a "bur
  4. We typically don't use it when parked in our own driveway, but everywhere else we do. Just like electrical "surges", you will never know when you need it until its too late...
  5. So-called "parasitic loads" could also (collectively) be keeping you just shy of a full charge. Depending on your configuration, you could look for things such as: Inverter "powered on" but not being used (we turn off the remote switch *and* the switch on the inverter itself when not in use) Water pump left on (even though not being used) Truma (for us) water heater 12v controls left on (remote switch inside and 12v controls switch outside on the heater) Of lesser concern, and not enough by themselves to inhibit a full charge status, but possibly "adding to" the load
  6. Ditto BackofBeyond's comment regarding adapter(s). Depending on which receptacle you use from the pedestal, each one may or may not be wired correctly, independent of the others. The testers referenced above will go into a 5-15 or 5-20 GFCI receptacle, but require an adapter for the 30A (TT-30) or 50A receptacle if you are using one of those (which is most common).
  7. Ugh! In the beginning... the lead-acid battery *was* the voltage regulator. Now that modern battery technology has become somewhat independent of the traditionally accepted range of the nominal 12VDC we are used to, perhaps its time to suggest a design improvement... to include a "whole house" DC voltage regulator (or maybe just a voltage limiter) which feeds a master 12V "loads busbar", and connect all of the charging sources on the "battery side" of the new DC voltage regulator (i.e. to a "charging busbar"). Not sure where to find an affordable/efficient one with a capacity for maybe 10
  8. Positive and negative busbars are essentially complete, except for some cable ties here and there. There are now 6 fewer cables connected to the batteries with just the (2) 4/0 cables, Zamp battery temperature sensor and Victron battery midpoint sensor remaining. Much cleaner looking. I still haven't finished connecting the Victron battery monitor (shunt is installed though). I'm waiting on parts for mounting the positive busbar's ANL fuse and master battery disconnect switch.
  9. It is indeed difficult to beat the price of salvaged scrap material :) Sherry and Bhncb are correct that HDPE/Starboard does not accept adhesive well. Mine is mounted with mechanical fasteners on top of the battery compartment where there is limited clearance. Cost for 12" x 18" x 1/2" thick from TAP was $22.95 + shipping... significantly cheaper than West Marine but still not cheap LOL. The busbars and Victron shunt will fit there. The battery disconnect switch and additional ANL fuse holder/cover (both of which are too tall) will have to be mounted elsewhere. Still a work in progre
  10. I am just starting a similar project on our Elite I, using many of the same components referenced above. There's not a lot of room left in the mechanical compartments to move stuff around / add new components! Victron BMV-712 battery monitor, negative busbar, positive busbar, master DC disconnect switch, and a 2nd ANL type fuse (150A) for the non-invertor DC loads (Xantrex specs a 250A fuse for their ProWatt SW 2000 watt invertor). My primary motivation is to reduce the number of cables in the battery compartment... there's not a lot of clearance and its a real bear to align the 4 or so c
  11. I have also lost a few of those black plastic retainer clips for the refrigerator vent covers somewhere "on the road"... I was able to replace them with a more reliable fastener - a cage nut, machine screw flat metal washer and flat rubber washer. I happened to have in-stock some M6 cage nuts designed to fit into a 1/4"x1/4" square punch-out in the side rails of a 19" computer server rack. They fit perfectly into the square hole in the refrigerator vent trim ring (inserted from the inside) designed to capture the black plastic retainer clip. Since my cage nuts are metric, I had
  12. "Nice job" to all of the above contributors. VERY useful. I did notice one very minor omission... the overflow tube on the fresh water tank is not shown. Not a big deal, but I recommend that it be included for the sake of completeness if nothing else 🙂
  13. Hah - That's pretty funny! We spent 8 days on the Blue Ridge Parkway, staying at four different campgrounds, for 2 nights each. We moved the trailer every other day to a different campground further down the parkway. On the alternating days we ranged 50-75 miles up or down the parkway with just our tow vehicle, revisiting some of the more interesting sounding overlooks that were not visible when we went by them the first time, or hopping off the parkway for attractions that required more time to absorb than we were willing to commit to on days when we were relocating the trailer to the ne
  14. Blue Ridge Parkway, Rockfish Gap VA to Cherokee NC, April 2019 Great drive with lots of scenic views and very little traffic this time of year. Almost all of the on-parkway visitor centers and campgrounds were still closed, but we had no problem finding campgrounds just off-parkway. Visibility is greatly reduced when the fog and/or rain rolls in, but still interesting. Blue Ridge Parkway northern terminus, Rockfish Gap VA (MP 0.0) Blue Ridge Parkway Great Valley Overlook (MP 99.6) Blue Ridge Parkway Curtis Valley Overlook (MP 348.8)
  15. The stainless steel set screws that hold together the 1" SS railing between the side dinette and rear dinette (only in an Elite-I) apparently loosen up during travel. I've found several loose setscrews under the seat cushions or on the floor that have backed themselves completely out. Others I've noticed while they were loose but before falling out. One fell out and disappeared completely, never to be found. I could see no obvious evidence that any type of threadlocker had been used on these setscrews originally. For my first repair attempt, I'm putting them back in with Loc-Tite "Blue" T
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