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ADKCamper

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Everything posted by ADKCamper

  1. Similar experience... our fridge cord also came unplugged, twice now. I blame the most recent occurrence on a very long stretch of rough interstate pavement with patches on patches. Used a flashlight and a mirror-on-a-stick to see what was going on behind the cabinet's rear wall. This time I tie-wrapped the cord (near the plug end) down to something solid. We'll see how that holds.
  2. Our 2018 Elite I is finally out of winter storage... our axle ubolt-to-frame clearance is 1-1/32" on the curb side and 1-1/8" on the street side (with trailer "dry", level front-to-back, and no gear loaded). Rear spring shackle is the proper "longer" Dexter HD variant for the single axle Elite I (3-1/8" center-to-center bolt holes, 4-5/8" overall length). Bushing is installed on the leaf-spring end of the shackle only. I'm not sure what the reason is for the discrepancy in clearance height between street-side and curb-side. Our driveway is slightly out of level side-to-side, so maybe that influences it. May also be a difference in the trailer's side-to-side weight distribution. I'll measure again when its on more level ground. It will also be interesting to see how the clearances change with a tank full of water and our standard load of camping gear. Definitely less than the 1-1/2" quoted above from Oliver QC/Engineering dept.
  3. Thanks, Longstride! Love to hear the loons calling in the evening when sitting around the campfire or drifting off to sleep. We have our share of pot-holes here in central NY State as well 😞 Our Ollie should be out of storage in 2-4 weeks and I will be able to measure the clearance then. Will also check out our spring shackle dimensions compared to the Dexter K71-358-00 kit referenced above. Hoping to get camping again soon... we definitely didn't get in enough "Ollie Time" in 2020!
  4. I can't measure right now as our 2018 Elite I is currently in winter storage. Looking at a couple of photos from 2019, it looks (at least from the angle taken) that we have a bit more clearance than the 1/2" described above, but not a lot. There is some evidence of minor "bottoming out" events visible. Over time we have become better at anticipating such events and adjusting speed and trailer positioning relative to obstructions accordingly.
  5. We have (2) Lifeline GPL-4CT 6V 220Ah AGMs in our 2018 Elite-I. This is what Oliver was using with the Solar option late in 2018. At the risk of tempting fate they've performed well so far, although its only been 2 years.
  6. Our Ollie (Elite-I) is in winter storage now, but last fall I scoped out the route of the pink BAS feed to help me understand what's what if I ever got to the point where I could install EOH disc brakes. On my Ollie the pink wire goes from the battery side of the 20A self-resetting breaker on the tow vehicle 12V charge line (street-side,, adjacent to the wheel well) into a bundle of split-loom protected wires. It exits the hull from the bottom of that bundle somewhere very close to there, and comes out right above the street-side end of the axle. From there (also covered by split-loom) it goes to the center of the trailer and then follows the hollowed-out path forward along the bottom of the hull, along-side the soft copper propane line to a point near the front of the fiberglass chassis. From this center-forward position the pink wire then heads street-side where it is butt-spliced to the "hot" pigtail on the breakaway switch.
  7. So it might be worth a try electrically, without major modifications, if I get that far :) Max PSI is 1600 for disc brakes, so that draws more current than at 1000 PSI as shown on the chart, but unsure how often/for how long full pressure is actually reached. Some experiments would be in order with a clamp-on dc ammeter and a handful of fuses. I hope not to be driving with the trailer in below-zero (deg-F) temps, so that helps. If necessary I could also try a slow-blow 40A fuse in the tow vehicle 12V charge line. And... maybe if the Hydrastar sucks too much current the voltage at the trailer will drop enough that the dc-dc charger will shut itself down temporarily, thinking the engine is off.
  8. Disc brakes have been on my wishlist for a while as well. I have an Elite with the 5200lb axle, which I would want to swap out for the same size axle but with E-Z Lube spindles and idler hubs, plus the Kodiak disc brakes and Hydrastar electric-over-hydraulic controller. I have previously swapped surge drum brakes on a boat trailer for Kodiak disks... they performed wonderfully but it was an easier task than changing over the Oliver. I am uncertain where I would locate the Hydrastar controller... I mocked up a cardboard Hydrastar and there is definitely not enough clearance in the Elite-I propane shroud for it to be located there, along with 2 tanks and the box/wiring for the rear stabilizer jacks. I could put it on the tongue, but I would rather not as it might invite mischief being so visible. Maybe slung underneath and partially between the frame members so that the fluid fill and bleed fittings are accessible behind the propane tanks from above, although it would hang lower than the rest of the frame in that area. It would be technically possible but more challenging and less desirable to locate it on the floor in the front closet (with a waterproof penetration through the hull for the wires and brake line... plus some potential risk of a brake fluid leak in the closet). Another concern with this mod... there's not enough capacity in the my tow vehicle's 12V charge line (fused at 40A, but I doubt the actual wire is sized for that... will have to look) to power both the Hydrastar controller (maybe 18A-25A draw in warmer climes, 40A draw below 0 degrees) and any kind of dc-dc charging of the Ollie's battery. I could make a more complicated solenoid interlock somewhere so that only one was actively drawing current at a time, *or* perhaps just dedicate the 12V charge line to charge the Ollie battery (e.g. Redarc or Victron Orion isolated dc-dc charger) and run a separate 12V feed back from the Ollie battery to the Hydrastar (or maybe share the existing feed to the hot side of the breakaway switch with the Hydrastar 12V input... replacing it with a larger gauge... I tried to determine if that was allowed but could not find any relevant reference with a sufficient level of detail to answer the question). Tom
  9. Had a similar experience with our Elite (#409 - late 2018) shortly after pickup. Fridge was working fine on AC at first, then it wasn't... After a bunch of poking around I discovered the AC plug was dangling almost out of its receptacle, which was located on the curbside wheel well (to the left of the refrigerator as viewed from the outside lower vent panel) behind a foil-sealed "plastic cardboard" panel. It was tricky to get in there without messing up that panel. No way to tell if that plug was initially fully seated or not. Haven't had a problem with it since. I'm surprised that such a "buried" outlet location meets code... or maybe it doesn't? Seems like that outlet should be in plain sight behind the refrigerator lower vent cover, probably with a weather-proof cover on it. Also had issues with the window shades falling off a few times. I found & replaced a couple of broken clips... and... lowered the tire pressure to 55-60psi. No problems with either of those issues since!
  10. We typically don't use it when parked in our own driveway, but everywhere else we do. Just like electrical "surges", you will never know when you need it until its too late...
  11. So-called "parasitic loads" could also (collectively) be keeping you just shy of a full charge. Depending on your configuration, you could look for things such as: Inverter "powered on" but not being used (we turn off the remote switch *and* the switch on the inverter itself when not in use) Water pump left on (even though not being used) Truma (for us) water heater 12v controls left on (remote switch inside and 12v controls switch outside on the heater) Of lesser concern, and not enough by themselves to inhibit a full charge status, but possibly "adding to" the loads from above: Radio/audio system (no switch to turn completely off) TV has no real on/off switch.... its always sitting there looking for the remote to say "turn on" (we added a switch to ours... not because of the parasitic load while off but because the bright little power-on LED interferes with DW's sleep). CO monitor Off-the-Air antenna amplifier And taking it to a ridiculous level... the little LED's on all the USB charging ports I haven't read the Zamp ZS-30 charge controller manual lately... does it need to be "trained/synchronized" to recognize a full charge?
  12. Ditto BackofBeyond's comment regarding adapter(s). Depending on which receptacle you use from the pedestal, each one may or may not be wired correctly, independent of the others. The testers referenced above will go into a 5-15 or 5-20 GFCI receptacle, but require an adapter for the 30A (TT-30) or 50A receptacle if you are using one of those (which is most common).
  13. Ugh! In the beginning... the lead-acid battery *was* the voltage regulator. Now that modern battery technology has become somewhat independent of the traditionally accepted range of the nominal 12VDC we are used to, perhaps its time to suggest a design improvement... to include a "whole house" DC voltage regulator (or maybe just a voltage limiter) which feeds a master 12V "loads busbar", and connect all of the charging sources on the "battery side" of the new DC voltage regulator (i.e. to a "charging busbar"). Not sure where to find an affordable/efficient one with a capacity for maybe 100A (?) that doesn't generate too much heat and can be mounted in the already limited mechanical spaces available.
  14. Positive and negative busbars are essentially complete, except for some cable ties here and there. There are now 6 fewer cables connected to the batteries with just the (2) 4/0 cables, Zamp battery temperature sensor and Victron battery midpoint sensor remaining. Much cleaner looking. I still haven't finished connecting the Victron battery monitor (shunt is installed though). I'm waiting on parts for mounting the positive busbar's ANL fuse and master battery disconnect switch.
  15. It is indeed difficult to beat the price of salvaged scrap material :) Sherry and Bhncb are correct that HDPE/Starboard does not accept adhesive well. Mine is mounted with mechanical fasteners on top of the battery compartment where there is limited clearance. Cost for 12" x 18" x 1/2" thick from TAP was $22.95 + shipping... significantly cheaper than West Marine but still not cheap LOL. The busbars and Victron shunt will fit there. The battery disconnect switch and additional ANL fuse holder/cover (both of which are too tall) will have to be mounted elsewhere. Still a work in progress!
  16. I am just starting a similar project on our Elite I, using many of the same components referenced above. There's not a lot of room left in the mechanical compartments to move stuff around / add new components! Victron BMV-712 battery monitor, negative busbar, positive busbar, master DC disconnect switch, and a 2nd ANL type fuse (150A) for the non-invertor DC loads (Xantrex specs a 250A fuse for their ProWatt SW 2000 watt invertor). My primary motivation is to reduce the number of cables in the battery compartment... there's not a lot of clearance and its a real bear to align the 4 or so cables on each battery post when removing batteries for winter storage or re-installing them in the spring. I am using marine King Starboard HDPE (high densite polyethylene) for additional component mounting space, available from multiple sources. It *seems* denser/stiffer than regular PVC lumber. I ordered mine from TAP Plastics: https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/king_starboard/526 When completed, I should only have (2) 4/0 battery cables, the small Zamp Solar temperature sensor cable and a small battery midpoint sensor for the Victron battery monitor (I have the two 6V Lifeline AGM batteries connected in series).
  17. I have also lost a few of those black plastic retainer clips for the refrigerator vent covers somewhere "on the road"... I was able to replace them with a more reliable fastener - a cage nut, machine screw flat metal washer and flat rubber washer. I happened to have in-stock some M6 cage nuts designed to fit into a 1/4"x1/4" square punch-out in the side rails of a 19" computer server rack. They fit perfectly into the square hole in the refrigerator vent trim ring (inserted from the inside) designed to capture the black plastic retainer clip. Since my cage nuts are metric, I had to use metric machine screws. You can just as easily use inch-sized cage nuts and machine screws. The upper and lower vent covers require slightly different washer sizes and machine screw lengths as detailed below. Upper Vent: M6-1.0x20mm machine screw, 6mm or 1/4" x 3/4" diameter steel flat washer, similar size round rubber flat washer. Lower Vent: M6-1.0x25mm machine screw, 6mm or 1/4" x 5/8" diameter steel flat washer, similar size square rubber washer. Flat washers and machine screws are stainless steel. Rubber washers are cut down to fit from a larger rubber washer. If you want you can select machine screws with security heads (security torx, security hex, etc...). CAUTION: Do not tighten machine screws too much - they will crack the bracket with the square opening in the trim ring that holds the cage nut in place (don't ask me how I know this LOL). Snug but not real tight. The rubber washers are there for this purpose. Periodically check machine screws to make sure they haven't self-loosened. Tom
  18. "Nice job" to all of the above contributors. VERY useful. I did notice one very minor omission... the overflow tube on the fresh water tank is not shown. Not a big deal, but I recommend that it be included for the sake of completeness if nothing else 🙂
  19. Hah - That's pretty funny! We spent 8 days on the Blue Ridge Parkway, staying at four different campgrounds, for 2 nights each. We moved the trailer every other day to a different campground further down the parkway. On the alternating days we ranged 50-75 miles up or down the parkway with just our tow vehicle, revisiting some of the more interesting sounding overlooks that were not visible when we went by them the first time, or hopping off the parkway for attractions that required more time to absorb than we were willing to commit to on days when we were relocating the trailer to the next campground. Maybe not the most efficient approach, but definitely more relaxing than breaking camp every day...
  20. Blue Ridge Parkway, Rockfish Gap VA to Cherokee NC, April 2019 Great drive with lots of scenic views and very little traffic this time of year. Almost all of the on-parkway visitor centers and campgrounds were still closed, but we had no problem finding campgrounds just off-parkway. Visibility is greatly reduced when the fog and/or rain rolls in, but still interesting. Blue Ridge Parkway northern terminus, Rockfish Gap VA (MP 0.0) Blue Ridge Parkway Great Valley Overlook (MP 99.6) Blue Ridge Parkway Curtis Valley Overlook (MP 348.8)
  21. The stainless steel set screws that hold together the 1" SS railing between the side dinette and rear dinette (only in an Elite-I) apparently loosen up during travel. I've found several loose setscrews under the seat cushions or on the floor that have backed themselves completely out. Others I've noticed while they were loose but before falling out. One fell out and disappeared completely, never to be found. I could see no obvious evidence that any type of threadlocker had been used on these setscrews originally. For my first repair attempt, I'm putting them back in with Loc-Tite "Blue" Threadlocker 243. If that doesn't hold them, I'll move up to a stronger/more permanent threadlocker. Still a work in progress... FYI I found replacement SS setscrews at Defender (same setscrews as used in SS boat railings) - Whitecap P/N 6249C, 316 Stainless Steel, 1/4-28 threads, cone point, pkg of 10.
  22. One or two of our solar panel mounting knobs were loose last November when we put our Ollie away for the winter... just 3 nights camping from factory pickup. Checked them all and put it away with sufficiently tight nobs for the winter. We've maybe put a couple of thousand miles on it so far this season, and there were 2 knobs loose again. Not sure if it was the same 2 knobs as before or not. All knobs had a lock washer installed, but they were compressed between the metal bracket and the plastic knob so not sure if they were able to fully achieve the intended effect. I added a stainless flat washer to each knob, and implemented John Davies' locking solution described above (thanks, John!). Easy, cheap and effective. On a side note pertaining to tilting the solar panels to facilitate water runoff, that does not appear to be possible on our 2018 Elite I as the box holding the connectors is located right underneath the panel and is so tall that there is insufficient clearance to drop down either side of the panel a notch in the bracket. However, when the trailer is level (as determined by the bubble on the tongue jack/stabilizer) there is a slight forward tilt to the solar panels due to a slight slope in the top ridge of the roofline. When level and at rest, water flows forward and off of the panel's top surface.
  23. I can confirm the above. We do not have a black tank flush valve either (Elite I hull#409 completed in late November 2018). That's good, because if we did it would be impossible to get to. I can see most of the tubing from where it enters the hull to where it enters the black tank with a flashlight and a mirror-on-a-stick, but most of it is buried under or behind the furnace and there is insufficient clearance to get a hand/arm into or around that space to operate such a valve if it did exist. The 2019 Owner's Manual (dated 1/8/2019) has removed the prior reference to this valve. See the "Oliver University" link under "Travel Trailers" above to download the latest owner's manual (now a single, merged Elite I and Elite II manual). Tom
  24. We have a 2018 Legacy Elite (I) with the Dometic refrigerator. The upper and lower ventilated access panels seem to be made by Norcold. *So far* I only have experience with installing screens on the lower access panel. I have ordered a screen that *I think* should fit the upper access panel but it has not arrived yet so that fit is not yet confirmed. Lower access panel: Norcold P/N 621156BW (white), Screen: Camco P/N RS600. I had to trim about 3/16" off both ends of each screen, and about 2 rows of wire off the "long, inner/unfinished" edge of the screen for it to fit nicely into the vents in the access panel. Per a similar discussion elsewhere on the forum, I used (4) small cable ties per screen, rather than just (2) as described in the instructions. Upper access panel: Norcold P/N 620505PW (polar white), Screen: Valterra P/N A10-1314VP (Correct fit still to be confirmed. this is a flat, rectangular screen that fits inside the ventilated access panel (rather than the long skinny screens that fit into the actual vents like with the lower access panel). Its supposed to be a no-tool drop-in installation. I found it at eTrailer.
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