GraniteStaters

Not sure what you mean, but here is what I have seen on the Lippert and my original hose. If there is any water in it and I stretch out the hose I create negative pressure. On the Lippert, when I stretch the hose to its entire length, the vacuum was so pronounced to cause the beginning of the hose to collapse. It was the downward leg of the connection and was laying against the bumper which probably contributed to the collapse.

There is a DIY video on Dexter YouTube channel that showed checking the magnets as a part of the bearing repack and shows how to check the face of the magnet where it activates on the wheel. If there is uneven wear the magnet won’t be as effective. I don’t believe they explained why the wear would be uneven.

Welcome from #509, and it is nice to have more New Hampshire Ollie owners! Paula

ScubaRX, I was surprised to see that you have several Oliver owners visiting you for your assistance in replacing their springs. Now that you have announced this and considering my order from Alcan will be here on Friday, I may inquire about whether you are “scheduling” and whether you are an HH stop too. GraniteStaters aka David Caswell

Wayfinder, you will need to replace your seals too, so you should had those, qty 4.

There is a kit available to rebuild the diaphragm pumps for Shur-Flo. It a very straightforward rebuild and worth it if the pump motor is working. The part is very compact and is good to have in the vehicle if you don’t travel with a spare.

We decided to replace our sewer hose with a Lippert Cam Lock version. They are expensive but have a nice design that includes a smooth interior and that improves flow. I used the honey pot option so I wouldn’t have to modify the interlocking connection on the Oliver. I purchased the primary hose, a coupler, and the honey pot cable for the same functionality. I also received an adapter that can be used to permanently modify the Oliver, but don’t anticipate ever using it. I did purchase the hose adapter to convert the honey pot hose to allow a garden hose connection as we only dump grey water and want to be able to dump to a container for longer stays where we don’t have sewer hookups at the campsite. I have attached a video. IMG_0349.mov

The math on the credit for Lithium Pro on LEII looks like it is off. 30 percent of $7120.00 isn't $7120.

When I think about tire manufacture's recommendation for tire pressure, I always consider tire failure. I know that if I have sufficient air in my remaining tire on the same side to support half of the trailer's weight, then I have n+1 redundancy. I consider that pretty important when towing.

If the shower/bathroom Valterra valve seal has been compromised or worn out, then there might be leak there too. The collar that ScubaRx is referring too is there to facilitate the replacement of the valve or seals in this 1 1/2 inch drain. If you do want to replace the Valterra seals, you will need to eventually slide the collar of the union on the 1 1/2 inch PVC drain pipe to allow the pipe connecting that side of the valve to be backed off enough to do the seal replacement on both sides of the valve. Be careful not to lose the screws and nuts on the valve as you disassemble. The cable can be temporarily removed by using an Allen wrench on the SS piston that moves the valve to open/close. If the valve requires much force to close it, you may have a seal that is being pushed by the blade itself which compromises its integrity.,

I received my replacement parts ordered from Amazon directly from Dexter. I assembled the shackle bolt assembly for both sides of our Oliver to insure that all the components were correct and discovered that the Shackle assembly with the wet bolts already pressed in on one side wouldn't line up with the other shackle on just one of the 4 assemblies. I reached out to Dexter for assistance as I assumed they would either replace the incorrect shackle assembly or authorize me to make a minor adjustment to the alignment of the bolts to correct. Hope to hear back from them today as I want to complete the install on the street side of the Oliver tomorrow or no later than Friday if they don't ship immediately. I did finish the curbside today and am waiting on new seals to complete the reinstall of the remaining hub on the curbside. The install of the wet bolts when well, but required elaborate adjustments to jack stands, hydraulic jack, screw jack and stabilizer to line up all the holes. The chassis attachment required me to lower spring eye hole to remove the mostly warn out copper bushing and to install the new bushing and naturally to realign everything to install the new wet bolts. I had one wet bolt that didn't show grease at the far end of the wet bolt due to pressure so I did adjust to loosen same and it allowed me to complete the lubrication. I suspect the other side will be quicker. I expect that due to the deterioration of the bronze bushings that we will need to disassemble the spring eyes every 36K miles to replace the bushings. None of my bolts showed any wear, so the bushings did their job.

I ordered a whole new set to Dexter HD bolts and plan to replace all the bolts and bushings. While I have the entire curbside of the trailer open for access, I will be repacking all the bearings too. I should receive the new sets of bolts later this week. My bushing on the EZ-Flex was about 40 percent gone after over 34K towing miles on our LEII.

I also used the Titan, but I didn't mount it to the outside cover. I added the stand off legs on the back of the fan and place it into the hot air exhaust opening and used a rubber hose to secure the fan against the back wall. It has never moved. I wanted to install the switch on the inside of the cabinet above the microwave, but Oliver discouraged me from trying to snake the wires between the hulls and thread it to the outside access opening. I did install two bus bars to power the fan and fridge with the fridge's 12V supply. We have had zero issues with this setup and have never run the temp passed 4.

Today's installment of the shackle wet bolt replacement on the rear axles where the spring connects to the EZ-Flex. I supported both front and rear axle with my jack stands. Both wheels are removed to give me easy access to the rear EZ-Flex connection on the rear axle. I used a screw jack to take pressure off the EZ-Flex joint closest to the rear axle. I used a small hydraulic jack placed under the leaf spring to assist in adjusting pressure on the shackle wet bolts. Because I have to replace one bolt because the zerk broke, I will be replacing all the shackle components on that connection. During disassembly, I left the nuts on the existing bolts so they would protect the threads and tapped the wet bolts a little at the time until I had enough space to gently pry out the bolts and link assembly. The nuts were removed and when I pried out the bolts the inside link fell off as expected. I adjusted the screw jack pressure on the EZ-Flex to facilitate removal of the wet bolts link assembly on my side of the spring. After removal, I found that the EZ-Flex didn't have any bronze/brass bushing and the spring eye hole had deteriorated and there looks to be just a small sliver. The wet bolt on the spring was greased last fall before our 6 month long trip. We had 11K towing miles so it was over due for greasing, but I suspect that with the amount of grease in the wet bolt and spring eye that just the mileage wouldn't account for the wear, but I defer to others on that question. The bolts looked fine, but I intend to replace them and the links as long as I have them disassembled.

Congratulations from #509! You will love it. 🙂 Paula