taylor.coyote

JD, just got your note... very helpful but I'm down for the night. we have run an extension cord through the window (a little tape to keep to seal the gap) for our portable electric heater. we will be ok for the night. can't believe I have put us in this situation. Camped on the batteries all the way through California thinking all was fine. The tired batteries are my fault but this other stuff at the same time is classic.. you can't make this stuff up. thanks

Jd1923, don't understand your note. please explain

CRM.. thanks for the follow up. I will check the voltage. I found a mobile RV repair guy that seems legit has been helpful way past normal hours. He can get the parts Monday morning with the plan to replace the damaged electronic components. If all goes well, we will be set for shore power and have upgraded everything to be lithium ready. Have not pulled the trigger on the batteries over the phone with the mobile guy. I have made a small bet paying for electronic components up front but not willing part with the cost of batteries until I see the whites of his eyes.

Steph and Dud B thanks for the tip on Oliver University. very helpful

Mike and Carol, I posted the above not knowing your post. Thank you. You have given me the information needed. Already checked the master power switch under the bed and all the fuses and breakers under in the kitchen. certain breakers are not the issue. tapping on the transfer relay make the power go on and off..

I know the transfer relay is bad. I Tap on it and we get power. I Tap on it again and we loose power. Something is shorting out and or ??? With this symptom, I don't feel it's wise to run shore power. I have been talking with a mobile rv tech about how the rely is behaving. He has seen this issue before and said the box is bad and will only get worse. We still have two possible solutions (besides the extention cord through the window). One is to replace my old AMG batteries. We want to upgrade to lithium if we are going to purchase batteries. Buying lead acid batteries would be a simple solution but not desirable. We know the Victron controller will support lithium but I don't know if the factory converter will or where it is located. Can someone tell me where we can find the converter and possibley the make/model? Does anyone know if the factory converter will support lithium or if the converter will need to be replaced? The other solution is to replace my bad transfer relay so I can have shore power. Ultimately we need to fix all our power issues but one or the other will allow us to continue our trip. At this time I don't know what possible based part availability in Flagstaff or possibly Sedona

I have been given some good advice in another stream about batteries. Can anyone tell me where I can find the factor installed converter, the likely brand and model and if it will support lithium batteries? The rest of the story is a nightmare. Camped near the south rim of Grand Canyon ( 7,000 ft) and my AMG batteries are failing and not getting us through the night. We solved the lack of batteries by finding a RV park for shore power. I plug into shore power and NOTHING. We had yet to use shore power on this trip and !@@#@! the transfer relay is not working. So here we are at 7000 ft with batteries not getting us through the night and no shore power. I'm working to either replace my batteries or finding the transfer relay box so we can power to continue our trip. At this point either or is good with us. And of course, it's Saturday night. The stop gap solution: We were able to borrowed (no stores open to buy anything) a 110 power cord to pull through a window to power our electric heater... We are kind of keeping out since of humor. Your help will be apprecaited

I am grateful for many things but would like to take this opportunity to tell you how grateful I am for the support of all the Oliver Forum users. We were complete rookie boneheads when we purchased our Oliver but certain we had made a good purchase. The Oliver was a great purchase but a big part of the value has come by surprise by way of this forum. When you are Ignorant, you don't know how ignorant you are. With the support of forum users, we have progressed from rookies to competent Oliver users and learning everyday. This forum has provided us with knowlege to safely drag a 6,000LB projectile around the country, make educated decisions for general maintenance and upgrading our trailer. The User Forum has increased our enjoyment of our Oliver by 50%. When ask about our Oliver, I say we love it but a huge part of the value owning an Oliver is generious support from the Oliver user forum. Let us be the first to wish you the best on however you celebrate the Christmast season. Chris and Tracey

Thanks for the feedback. Seems it may be time for lithium batteries. Our four 105AH (200 AH combined usable) AMG's combined with 340W solar panels have provided us with care free power for summer camping. Per Mike and Carol: the idea of 300AH lithium sounds like it would give us carefree power with some headroom going forward. Two questions: I'm thinking our 340W panels may not be able to top off 300AH batteries but will be sufficient to stay ahead of our power needs of 30-40AH per day. Is this assessment is reasonable? Or should we consider adding DC to DC charging from the truck for more charging capacity ? What are your experiences and recommendations regarding the various brands of lithium batteries?

We are on an extended trip with weather at or below freezing at night. Our batteries are barely getting us through each night with our normal activities. I'm wondering if it's the cold weather or our four year old AMG batteries are wearing out. We have four AMG 6 volt that provide 200ah usable power. We do not have an inverter and run everything on 12 volts. Out typical routine is charging a couple lap tops, charge a couple of camera batteries, run a dehumidifier (2amps), heat at 60F all night, modest area lighting, refrigerator and a couple hours of Starlink. We start the night at 100%, 12.68 volts and 0 used amp hours. By morning the state of charge is 97-98% with the voltage in the 12.3's and one morning had a 12.2 alarm. This morning our Victron AP showed we had only used 15amp hours since last night's 100% charge. These numbers don't make sense. In the summer, we typically consume 30 +/- amp hours each night without the heater running. We must be burning more than 15amp hours but that's not my question. I don't want to confuse the acruacy of the Victron consumption report with the fact we are within our normal routine + running heat and barely getting through the night. Do you think our batteries are getting tired or is the cold a factor?

thanks for sharing. we sleep with the temp at 60F with no issues. The issue is if it's 40F outside, a cold trailer takes at least an hour to get to 65 and I don't think it can get to 70F. The vent under the bed flows at 119 degrees, the kitchen at 99 degrees and the bath 72. We camped two nights ago at 20F. No problem to maintain the desired 60F while we sept but it topped out at 68F when we turned it up in the moring. I have read that 120 -140F is the temperature expected from an RV propane heater. Our heater is adequate but at the bottom of what seems to be expected from an RV heater. I would like to hear about other's heater experience / performance in cold weather.

French Glen / Steens MT petroglyphs and painted rock CG white spar / Prescott Sedona

Snackchaser, very kind of you to remember me and offer help. As mentioned, we are on the road in AZ. Tomorrow is a short day and don't plan to move for a couple of days. I checked the fuse (looked good) but replaced it anyway. The fuse doesn't appear to be the issue. I had the nose off the trailer a few weeks ago that required unmounting jack's toggles switch. It's a good bet my issue is at or near the toggles. I will access and decide if I want to spend this "adventure time" on the maintenance. I'll let you know. If it's above my skill set, your help would be appreciated. We plan to be home around the first of January.

Scuba, found the fuses in-line as you had said about older trailers. Replaced the fuse and still no go. I'll start tracing the connections from the toggle switch back. I have a replacement switch on board. Hopefully a simple task. I'll let you know.

Lots written about the furnace but everyone seems generally satified with its ability to warn the cabin living space. We have been in the Anza Borrego area (45-night / 75-day) and headed for colder weather. Even with modified ducting (hard elbows at furnace, hard straight runs passing through the water valve area and cutting 3.5' off in the bath vanity) our heater works hard to get the cabin temperature above 65 degree (starting at 55 degrees inside). We find 65 comfortable but concerned about heating when it's 25 degrees outside. Is this normal? please share your heating experience.

Our Experience with the Starlink Mini is the same as Ronbrink. We traveled for many years with an ATT NetGear portable cellular hub but have repalced the NetGear with Starlink. We spend a good part of time off the grid and Starlink provides service everywhere except when you have abstructions such as trees between you and the satellite. The ATT NetGear is great device, it's portable, simple and easy to use. If we didn't spend time off the grid, we would likely stay with the ATT NetGear hub. With an ATT business account our NetGear plan was $65 monthly (+ buying it over time as with cell phones) with unlimited data use.

No tv at all in our OLEll. We have Starlink for communication and can get tv content on our laptops if desired.

900 miles on new Alcan springs, Dexter E-Z Flex Suspension Kit (K71-653-00), 5,000 lbs axles at 55lbs tire pressure. My trailer content is shifting like never before (especially pots and pans). Don't know if trailer is sprung stiffer or the really poor California freeways, Highway 71 and 15 getting around LA had big compressions and peaks. Anyone running the Alcan spring kits having the same experience?

thank you scuba. We are down for the count for the night. Hopefully they will be obvious in the morning.

In addition to having a quality trailer, you have joined an amazing group of people (Oliver forum). I continue to be amazed at the collective knowledge that this group is willing to share. Best of luck with you Oliver.

Mossemi, the electrical bus for the connections is located next to the master power shut off under the street side bed. This said the bus has nothing connected. Any other suggestions where I can find the fuses for the nose and rear jacks?

Thanks for the additional coaching. The good news: the jack is stuck in the up position / no manual cranking needed. Mossemi, thanks for the location/pics of the jack fuses. I'll think good thoughts and hope its just the fuse.

thanks for the tips about the fuses. don't understand where to find the jack fuses. Are you directing me to the master fuse box under the dinette? or are directing me to dig around under the street side rear bed.. and did you say both right and left rear jack fuses are located together under the bed? please clarify will also check the connections

big tex, you have likely saved me from head slapping and turning the sprayer into an ice cube

Just pull in to camp and the rear drive side jack will not got down. I'm assuming it's electrical at the toggle. This is likely associated with removing the entire propane compartment from the trailer a couple weeks ago to spray with vortex for rock protection. My knowlege of electricity is minimal although I do have a circuit tester in my tool kit. Can anyone tell me where to source the double toggle switch box for the rear Jacks or chime on how to go about isolating the power failure.