taylor.coyote

The balls that retract at the end of my pins have become frozen from corrosion. Can someone help me with a source to purchase new pins?

We purchased our Oliver used with the old style manual Fiama awnings on the street and curb side on out trailer. We have never used the street side awning. We find the front door awning to meet all of our needs. It's on my list to remove the street side awning so I have less maintenance for the trailer.

hello skigator, After i posted the above information I recognized the new production trailers come equipped with an 11,000 BTU A/C. My experience is only with the older 13,000 BTU AC and cannot speak with authority to your generator power needs . This said, I believe you will need more than 1,200 w to run the A/C. Hopefully owners of newer Olivers with the 11,000 BTU AC can provide you with their experience.

Congratulations on your decision to purchase an Oliver. 1200w will not be enough to run your 13000 btu air conditioner. I can run my 13000 btu air conditioner with soft start circuit installed using a Honda 2200. The Honda 2200 will not run my 13000 btu air conditioner without a soft start circuit. be sure to get this I cannot speak to the charing time for your batteries. You will want a soft start for your air conditioner. I can also run the air conditioner from a house 120 v hook up.. before having the soft start, the air conditioner required 30amp hook up.

Yep, had bugs living in my 7 pin plug . this was the catalyst for me to get a plug storage cover. this option is a no drill solution that installs with worm screws that tighten the bands around your front jack. takes 5 minutes the install. its clean and works well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFFC0IU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Click image to open expanded view

My local RV repairs guys told me our local high humidity causing condensation shorts the circuit board. The circuit board that came the fan and the replacement circuit boards I have purchased from Etrailer are not coated to protect them from moisture. It's just a matter of time before moisture will foul the board without a conformal coating to protect the circuits. Like i stated before, I went through three circuit boards. The last board I replaced, I painted it with conformal coating. It's still early in the life of the new board but I'm feeling like this will solve the issue or water shorting the circuits and the fan going haywire. https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Premium-Acrylic-Conformal/dp/B07B8RY7M6/ref=asc_df_B07B8RY7M6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312443844861&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=348473701483492761&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014226&hvtargid=pla-554140506900&psc=1

i stumbled over this post while looking for something else. I have been unhappy with the factory trim. This looks like a killer solution. Just ordered the trim. Has anyone presented this to the factory for production of new trailers?? Yes, Have more than i can use.. I would be happy to share

thank you.. I'm going to run with the 90lbs on my next trip starting Wednesday. will check often until I'm comfortable.

i stumbled over this post while looking for something else. I have been unhappy with the factory trim. This looks like a killer solution. Just ordered the trim. Has anyone presented this to the factory for production of new trailers??

Hello John, I noticed on your service list that your torque values for the lug nuts is 90 lbs this is different than the service bulletin posted by Jason / see below 120 lbs seem a lot. Please explain why you choose a lower torque value than the factory recommendation JEssary Oliver Staff 40 Posted March 10, 2017 TORQUE SPECS WHEEL LUG NUTS STAGE 1: 90 LBS STAGE 2: 110 LBS STAGE 3: 120 LBS

yes, desiccant in the camera from the factory..was able to bake it in the oven to recharge / dry out the desiccant. the crystals turn pink when they are dry

decided to work on the camera. pulled the 6 screws mounting the camera to the bracket (3mm). instead of taking the camera off the roof and pulling the wiring, i turned the camera around and mounted it backwards in the bracket. this gave me good access to the screw to open the camera body... from here dry it with a hair dyer and replace the desiccant . the gasket is in need of replacement. Applied some silicon sealer with the hope this will help seal the gasket until i get a new one. ended up being very easy. still need a new gasket

My best guess is your circuit board is fouled with moister. I have gone through 3 circuit boards before finding this you tube post. in my case i installed a new board but coated with a liquid conformal coating before installation. so far so good..

congrats.. You have purchased tons of fun and a learning curve. this forum has proven to be an amazing resource made of many generous people. If i did not know better, I would think these are images of our trailer, including the John Davies straps design on the drawers. We have the the identical interior.

As always good tips. I was hoping it would be less involved for a quick fix. Headed for a trip Wednesday. most likely will do the project when I return. I will follow up at this time

We have a Honda 2200 converted to propane fuel. Our air conditioner has a soft start circuit. All works very well to date. This said, we have yet to challenge the system at high altitude on a hot day. These factors could put the performance of the generator the outside its ability to supply enough power to properly run the air conditioner. We love not having to deal with a supply of gas. We have the large propane tank option and have never run short of propane. Water is always the item that brings us back to town. Our conversion is a Hutches kit. This kit will void the warranty of the generator and is illegal in some states (not approved EPA emissions)

Anyone have experience with the rear camera having moisture inside the camera lens? Solutions how to fix the foggy lens would be appreciated

Good questions. The tank is designed after my friend's that owns the auto shop. He has an older F250 with the system installed for over 5 years. No trouble so to date. We do spend a lot of time off road but seldom end up dealing with hard core 4x4 conditions. Let's face it, an F250 is not a nimble off road rig. I have yet to be in the position to be dragging the bottom of the running boards. We were thoughtful to design the "tank "frame hanger arms" to be the weak point and should give before damaging the tank. The system is also designed for easy access to the working parts. Simply unbolt 4 bolts in the frame hanger arms and the whole systems easily can be dropped down. For cleaning the fins, they are accessible for a hosing off through the gap between the truck and the running boards. Yes , a bit spendy but it takes zero storage space and does way with futzing with a portable kit. I just need to pug in the air hose and it's ready to go. The filters are inside the truck under back seat. This is mandatory to draw dry air and easy access. This is based on the five years of experience of my friends systems and by taking with the folks at Horn Blasters for the compressors holding up under the truck. Time will tell the truth regarding our wisdom on the systems location.

I thought some of you may have an interest in our on-board, on demand compressor air system. A little background: It was taking a long time to air-up 8 tires with a small portable compressor. Besides filling the tires slow, the compressor maxed out its duty time in about 20-25 minutes. This caused an additional waiting period for the compressor to cool before we could complete airing up all 8 tires. When the compressor taped out, I always had some fear the compressor was cooked for good. all considered, airing up was taking the better part of an hour. This process was laborious. We would reluctantly air down only if we were going to be off road for a full day or more. A friend that owns a tire shop showed me a custom on board, on demand air system he had made for his truck. With his help and some fabrication time from another friend we came up with a high performance system for our truck. Below are some images and some initial performance results of the on board sir system for our F250, 4x4 ,short bed, crew cab. Some may think this is overkill but I love being able to increase the PSI by 20 LBS for 8 tires in what should be in the range of 12-15 minutes. Most importantly, my wife is supportive and likes the new tool. The system mounts with a pair of "frame hangers" employing existing truck frame bolts on the passenger's sided, behind and parallel to the running board. The design compromise made with our system to have a larger tank was to give up 1" of ground clearance (bottom of tank hangs 1" below the lowest point of the running boards). We could have opted for a smaller tank without giving up any ground clearance by using 4" x 5" tubing vs. the 5" x 5" tubing used for the tank. Crew Cab pickup trucks generally have under body space to mount a robust system. Auto drop down running boards greatly reduce your tank size options. Most onboard systems have 2-5 gallon tanks with a single constant duty compressor. These are less robust but still are considered to be high-performance systems. Some systems have the air tank located in a separate location than the compressor. Each rig takes your imagination to come up with a system that can work for you. Material cost for our system was $970 for everything. Please note, a typical system will have a lower cost due to having one compressor and a smaller tank. 5"x 5" x 92" steel tubing 7 weld-in bungs Drain valve and pipe plugs Steel flat bar (frame mounts, compressor mounts, tabs for electronics) Paint Air hose and fittings Dual Pack Viair 450c compressor kit plus wiring kit I purchased the compressor from Horn Blasters. They are knowledgeable about onboard air systems and provided a no questions asked replacement for some damaged components. https://hornblasters.com/collections/air-compressors Specs and initial performance Two Viair 450c compressors (constant duty - 150 psi / 3.28 CFM) Pressure switch --100psi on / 150 psi off 5x5"x92" air tank = 10 +/- gallons Half inch ID air delivery system Female quick coupler at truck hitch for air hose attachment The system is newly installed as of this morning. I have yet to field test airing up all 8 tires to know the true air up time. I did a quick bench test by filling one tire from 50psi to 70psi and filling the 10 gallon tank form zero to 150psi. Tire size Fill rate 265/70/18. 50 psi to 70 psi took 1.1 minutes Ten gallon tank. Zero PSi to 150 PSI took 3.3 minutes on board compressors and air tank system.jpg.pdf on board compressors and air tank. 2jpg.pdf QUICK COUPLER AT HITCH pdf.pdftank behind running board.jpg.pdf

I like the idea of using a pantry style latch. do you happen to know a source for this latch? Hull 124. I will see if i can figure how to add my hull # to my signature.

I'm large man, 6'4" / 260 lbs. I share the trailer with my wife and an 80lb Chesapeake Bay Retriever. Bed length is comfortable, ceiling height don't even notice. Bath is a little cozy. I tend to sit on the toilet when showering, this give me ample room. Have taken 60 day trips and remained comfortable. Oliver trailers are 7' wide resulting in less space than most trailers that are 8' wide. The narrow width is a big plus when doing adventurous boon-docking. The trailer is very nimble. We have taken it to places i would never consider with a wider trailer.

Did you use screws only to attached the stainless hardware? The drawer between our twin beds has been launched with a lot of force a few times.. I was wondering if bolts with nuts on the inside of the cabinet might be needed to manage this much force.. Please share your thoughts thank you chris

I chimed in on the topic of transporting bikes on the rear of the trailer last year. My Background/expertise comes from being an executive at Yakima Products for 20 years. I'm impress with some of these creative and eloquent solutions. I simply want to voice to proceed with an abundance of caution when engineering bike soultions that attached to the rear bumper of any trailer. As I stated before, the forces at the rear of a trailer are magnitudes greater than at the hitch of your tow vehicle. The axle of your trailer is a giant fulcrum/pivot point and the rear of your trailer is the launching point. There are very few products designed to withstand the forces generated at the rear of a trailer. At this time Yakima only makes two hitch mounts that are approved for use on the rear of a trailer. LongHaul - https://yakima.com/products/longhaul?_ga=2.263397708.1569403010.1602517930-2113444950.1601489236 RoadTrip - https://yakima.com/products/roadtrip?_ga=2.263397708.1569403010.1602517930-2113444950.1601489236 This means that none of the other 50+ bike racks made by Yakima are approved or designed to be used on the rear of a trailer. I would go as far to say that most of the bike systems being used on the rear of trailers are not rated for the dynamic forces being exerted on them. The majority of these bike systems are being miss-used and are at risk of a catastrophic failure. I have never spoken to the folks at Oliver but I trust you should not exceed the recommended load limits specified by the factory. In my early years at Yakima, I always felt that engineers were way too conservative resulting in not being able to make product to carry loads in ways that seemed fine to me. This was based on my own extensive experience using our products. It was the classic conflict between the marketing team and the engineering team. Fast forward many years and one of my roles was being responsible for all the warranty and customer service activities. At the time we fielded in the range of 500,000 calls per year. Every Monday morning after our customers spent the weekend transporting their toys, the phone lines were jammed with every situation you could imagine about gear that had fallen off and hit the road or got scrapped off from a low overhang or what ever. 98% + of the gear that found its-self on the road was due to consumer installation errors, miss use and overloading. My point: your personal experience and general judgment of what will work should not exceed the engineering guidelines. You can get away with exceeding these guidelines for a long time until that one compression, bump or off road water bar will get you. Now that catastrophic failure is happing to you. All you need to do is spend one day listening to the Monday morning calls coming into Yakima. The call starts with, "I was just driving down the road and my rack and bikes came off my car and were run over by the car behind me". After, learning more about what actually happened, 98% of the time, the products were WAY OVERLOADED or MISS-USED in some way. The final story I will leave you with is when I was driving north on California highway 101 earlier this summer. The road is rough and curves through the giant redwoods. I came around a sharp curve and came upon four bikes that were attached to an entire fifth-wheel ladder laying in the middle of the road. About a mile ahead was the first safe place to pull off the road. At this point was an enormous fifth-wheel trailer with holes ripped out of the back of the trailer where the ladder was once attached. You see bikes on fifth-wheel trailer ladders all the time. It's one thing for a 250 pound person to climb that ladder when the trailer is not moving. Its another to load that ladder with a 100 pounds of bikes that are getting tossed and flung around mile after mile after mile.

I have a 2016 Legacy II (hull #124) that was delivered without a flat screen or sound system. This said, it has an external factory installed coaxial TV port on lower rear corner drivers's side. Is it possible only the factory cable port has been installed without any cables routed for future hook up? or has it been wired with the cables terminating in the hull? Can anyone have any knowledge on the the coaxial cable routing and where I might locate the end of this cable? Some guidance would be appreciated.