taylor.coyote

Thought some might get a kick out of this video clip my wife shot in our back yard and set to music last rutting season. 4 bucks.mp4

I don't understand the need for 900 Ah. Without getting any charging, 300Ah easily covers us for 5 days. With good sunlight our batteries are pretty much topped off every day. Can you run your air conditioner and microwave? do you run an electric induction stove top?

I think it was Mountain man that discovered Alcan Springs and made the first post in the forum. some 36 pages later in the forum, seems the has provided a great service to Oliver owners and a real bump in sales for Alcan. Thank you Mountain man, for your contribution to all of us that have broken springs and now running on Alcan. Additionally, I think the folks at Alcan might consider some recognition and maybe a modest commission for purchases made by Oliver owners. Best to you and happy torquing Mountain Man

jd, how could I doubt you? As with most Oliver activities, you are well ahead of me

Jd, Yes ,every region is different. You have "invisible red dirt, we have "invisable sticky pollen" from the redwoods in the summer. My recommendation: when you rip off the old gutters, experiment and run without them for a while before installing new gutters. You have nothing to loose and may discover you don't need or want them. There will be no penalty if you decide you want to install gutters at a later date. There is a a lot written about people pulling the gutters that will never go back somewhere in the forum. I probably overstated "eliminated streaking". Running without gutters hasn't greatly reduced streaking. Keeping the roof clean is the key to eliminating streaking when running without gutters. best to you

Hopefully not to be seen as a contrarian, I have permanently removed rain gutters on both sides of our trailer. We got tied of all the crap getting hung up in the gutters and streaking down the side. I intend putting short gutters above the windows but have not found this to be necessary. We live on the rainy north coast of califorina and have NO REGRETS. Net results: its a lot easier to wash and keep our trailer clean and have eliminated streaking down the side of our trailer. WE WILL NEVER GO BACK.

Google Maps has basic travel planning that is free. Please find an example link below https://www.google.com/maps/dir/McKinleyville,+CA+95519/Medford,+Oregon/Lake+Shasta+Caverns+National+Natural+Landmark,+20359+Shasta+Caverns+Rd,+Lakehead,+CA+96051/@41.427653,-124.1908508,7.61z/data=!4m20!4m19!1m5!1m1!1s0x54d15c594e280e27:0x585da6f91a139f5f!2m2!1d-124.0312661!2d40.9373196!1m5!1m1!1s0x54cf7c5b37361f6d:0x7db736c5541136e!2m2!1d-122.8767396!2d42.3230112!1m5!1m1!1s0x54d27d843f61b711:0x35bb1e6f54db32a1!2m2!1d-122.3039955!2d40.8042955!3e0?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI2MDgwNC4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D

Flora Reviewed the Teslong website and found what seems to be a qauitly wifi scope for $50 (WF150D39L3 Wi-Fi Inspection Camera with 3.9 mm Camera). It uses your phone or computer's screen vs purchasing a more expensive scope with an integrated screen. Looks like good quality and compact solution for traveling. https://teslong.com/collections/inspection-borescopes

Flora https://teslong.com/collections/inspection-borescopes Teslong makes a variety of quality scopes ranging from $100 to $150. The heads on these scopes are general smaller, larger screen, better images, cables are generally more supple/ easier handling, can record video and snap pictures vs low cost scopes. You can get scopes at amazon and home depot starting at $29.

Geoff, Your offer to help is appreciated. I was able to find and reconnect the loose wire. You are correct, not much room behind pantry switches. As stated above, I found pulling the tank monitor face plate provides a generous opening to access the switches and wiring in front of pantry.

jd, I learned a lot today. I was looking for a red wire because the center wire at other end (courtesy light toggle switch by the door) was red and not labeled. Using a scope, I started by looking up from the basement. I had pulled out all three toggle switches just below the Pantery (hot water, water pump, courtesy lights) to pull on the various wires to identify and exclude them. Accessing and scoping from the basement was unsuccessful and difficult at best. I had success pulling the plate with the tank monitors next to the toggle switch plate. Removing this place gave me a nice size cut-out enabling a good angle to maneuver the scope. I was still looking for a red wire when I came across a loose gray wire (same color as the other two wires going to the courtesy light toggle). The loose wire was labeled T46 and did the trick.

jd, not such a thing as access to below the Pantery into the space behind the battery compartment on my trailer to the. I should be able to fish the center red wire with a scope.

jd...Shiver my timbers and no kidding an access panel in the bottom of the Pantery? I would have never known. Thanks, another great tip.

jd, thanks for the pic,,..yep my center red wire is missing / not connected to the toggle switch and floating somewhere in the wall..... I have the use of my neighbor's scope, hopefully I can find the center red wire. Should be / could be a quick fix ...maybe? Few would take the time to pull the toggle switch and send me the pic You are the best !!!

Geoff is a wizard. In fact Geoff's home is about a 1/2 hour from mine. In this case, my neighbor has offer me the use of his scope. I should be able to fish the center wire from inside the hull. thanks for your help

I have done some research on-line and have learned each three way toggle switch will have three wires attached. The toggle switch for the inside courtesy lights located under the Pantery has only two wires attached. Seems the middle wire is floating between the fiberglass wall below the Pantery and behind the battery compartment. I don't have a scope. Does anyone have experience fishing a wire from between the walls of this compartment? any coaching will be appreciated.

jd, good tip. I think I have the parts to make a jumper cable

dj- I'm an electrical zero, a couple of questions: when jumping wires, the toggle at the pantry has two wires and the toggle at door has 3 wires. easy to jump the two wires at the pantry. how to you deal with jumping the three wire toggle? is the center a ground? do you unplug the two outer wires and jump them ignoring the center wire? or what?

My interior courtesy lights will not turn on. All other lights operate. Have check the contacts on both toggle switches. I'm assuming one of the toggle switches has gone bad. Can anyone tell me where to purchase replacemnt toggles switches? I have hull #124 / 2016 production if the toggles have changed on newer production.

Don't know of anything to do this job. This said, very few trucks can handle 500lbs of trailer tongue weight + 500lbs motorcycle over the tongue. You might consider a front receiver if you are driving a 3/4 ton or bigger truck and have enough payload after all gear is on board. The EcoHitch Hidden Front Mount Trailer Hitch Receiver - sold at ETrailer has a 1000lbs vertical load on Ford super duty trucks. I drive an F250 and carry a lot of gear on the truck plus the 500lbs of tongue weight, this maxes out my payload. I would need to Jettison 500lbs from the truck's bed to carry 500lbs on a front receiver. If I wanted to carry our normal load on the truck with a trailer in tow and 500lbs on the front receiver, I would need a 1 ton to have enough payload.

thanks for the pics... looking good

Doing all business factory direct has proven to be a good business model for Oliver. Selling through dealers reduces the company's margin and in theory should increase units sold. If Oliver were my company, I would choose the be a specailty smaller company with a higher margin than selling more at a lower margin as long as your are able to reasonably absorb the factory and indirect overhead. The overhead has to be a significant number that rolls up into the cost when spread over only couple hundered units. I'd love to see their books "get peak under the hood" to truly understand the business puzzle. I'm sure they have an interesting challenge.

Congrats on your trailer. We mostly boondock with our trips running from 3 weeks to 7 week at a time. We purchased our Oliver used and it came with two awnings. In the eight years of owning the trailer, we have NEVER USED THE DRIVER SIDE AWNING. The drive side awning did come in handy for broken parts one occasion. Based on our experience, a driver side awning is dead weight. Best of luck, Olivers are great trailers.

Glad to see all that have been successful drilling holes in the new hitch that match the trailer tongue. I worked with a friend with a Comercial machine shop and we missed the vertical location for one of the hole sets in the tongue. We were close but it was a miss. The challenge for us was the lack of precision of the bulldogs production. The stamping folding the shape of the hitch sleeve is different between each hitch. Coaching will be appreciated.

So far my local RV shop (not Oliver sanctioned) has been able to take care of needs beyond my skill sets. I thought their fee of $165 per hour was painful but $300, OUCH...that's stops my heart. Apparently my diesel mechanic is a bargain at $200 per hr. Salt Lake is central to the greater west and within 1,000 miles from everywhere on the pacific coast. I could live with this for specail repairs. When young, we were back packing and mocked the idea of dragging a trailer around. As we aged, we transition to tent camping and now doing the trailer thing. Yep, life was simple when we were kids with little means but sleeping on the river bar is no longer a good option for my old bones. God forbid if we were to ever end up with a Class A.