Naegele

I was told during delivery that best practice to use anything that works on propane in the trailer is to turn the tank on and then enter the trailer and purge the air in the lines by lighting to stove first. Sometimes there is a fair amount of air. I run the lit burners a few minutes then shut the stove off. After that the water heater, furnace and fridge generally light on their first try.

Correction 3/8 diameter

I use landscape nails that can be purchased at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. They look like a giant nail and are used in landscaping to nail together landscape timbers. They are 1/4 dia shank and can be bought in lengths of up to 12 inches. You can buy them individually or in boxes of 50/100 etc. I have about 40 of them from years of tent camping. If you lose one its no heart burn.

SafeJack sells various bottle Jacks and accessories. I carry a basic 5 ton bottle jack and a frame cradle attachment to keep the jack from slipping off the frame jacking area.

Makes sense. I’ll probably do the same.

Spike, your comment about a intake hose kit was curious. What was the issue it addressed? Not able to draw all the water from the tank. What vintage is your Ollie?

I purchased three of the Anderson Jack Blocks thinking the reduced time (jack travels much less), reduces stress on the jack ( not extended so far, better for resisting side loads) and clean off with a rinse when used on dirt. So they work as advertised but I have discovered a basic weakness of the product when used on anything other than concrete. See the pictures. When used as sold the bucket goes flange side/hollow side down. The issue is all the weight is on the flange portion that calculates roughly 28 square inches. So given say a say “650” lb tongue weight that equates to 23 PSI. The result is the flange settles into both dirt and asphalt. By comparison a 2x12 board cut square 11.25x11.25 is 127.6 square inches and 5.14 PSI with the same load. I may try them upside down but they will collect some rain water. Bottom line I need to put a flat surface of lumber or other plastic block to prevent the bucket from sinking in. At the last campsite we were at the settled in about 1/2 in per day. I store the Ollie at a new RV storage yard and the owner wasn’t too pleased with the rings I left in his asphalt.

Wow - thanks for all the great responses!

Thanks David, I did a search but didn’t see this thread. It’s a good start. I lick the Shark Bite stuff over crimps or hose clamps but might need all. Definitely a major pain when you fire up the water and have a gusher!

Have any of you “long time Boy/girl Scouts”, be prepared types, assembled a take-with-you repair kit for potential repairs? Not talking about typical tools so much, but more about parts? Our Ollie is about 8 months old and a plumbing PEX fitting in the hot water plumbing snapped off allowing a water line to come completely free during transit due to strain on the fitting from unsupported PEX line weight. I plan to review the plumbing system more and inventory a kit of fittings, PEX tubing, PEX cutter, etc. to avoid the hassle of losing time camping running to the hardware store for a parts fix. Also will look at more strain relief on fittings using zip ties, brackets, etc. I’ll post what I come up with. I do carry electrical basics , wheel bearings, bottle jack, tire plug kit, etc. If anyone has a preferred grouping of parts and specialty tools please share.

With the high quality LT tires and say two-three hours between pit stops I don’t see a need for a tire monitor for the Elite II. Rather I just carry a tire gauge and a Infrared Temp gun to use at stops.

There is a lot of information on the web regarding using common pool chlorine as a water sanitizing agent similar to using bleach. I live in Florida where we use liquid (versus powder) chlorine in our pools and for other uses like using a garden sprayer with a deluded chlorine mix to treat mold, fungus, alge, etc. before power washing decks, patios, Lana is, etc.

We took delivery 11/25/2019 of a Elite II. I tried to make a educated decision about insurance and did ask about injuries of others in and around the RV that may be blamed or considered my responsibility. Anyway I settled on a policy from Safeco which included full replacement costs (cost at time of purchase, $68k) and I added a coverage called “Vacation Liability” $300,000 liability coverage for $11 extra premium annually. It was implied by the agent as protection against injuries to others in and around the RV. The 81 page policy document lends no comfort or confidence to this coverage (legal terms confusing and extensive) but Safeco took the $11 extra so they are in the boat with me for “something”!!! As an aside FYI general info., this policy effective last November has a paid in full annual premium of $934. We are based in Florida.

Has anyone found a source for the little suction cups and clips? One of ours got pulled out and the clip disappeared.

The Truma gas only endless water heater. Seems to work great so far.

Makes good sense, thank you.

Regarding the fridge, I’m new to having all this luxury as I camped out of tents and a slightly converted Utility trailer - no fridge. So are you saying at a campground with electric you run the fridge on propane? The fridge works better on gas that electric?

I have Oliver 555 and both Honda 2200i generators, the std. one and the “companion” that has a std. duplex outlet and a 30amp outlet (L5-30). That 30 amp outlet requires a basic adapter to allow the male end of the Oliver supplied power cord to plug into the adapter. For a first trial trial I started the Companion generator by itself using the 30 amp connection with adapter and then connected the Oliver with its supplied cord. I got no power and the E2 Open ground code on the EMS. I Shut the generator down, unplugged at the Ollie and then added a neutral ground plug to its duplex outlet. Restarted the Generator and replugged in the cord to the Oliver. EMS takes a pause before allowing power the connected showing E0, Normal Operating Condition. Being that the Oliver is new, Nov. 25th, I then tested the easy start, fridge and air conditioning. Everything worked as advertised. I cycled the air conditioning temp up and down and watched the EMS which would see amperage as high as 18amps when the air was cooling with the fridge cooling. So I did not run the microwave at the same time not problem would I. Therefore I can’t see hauling the second gen and hooking it in parallel at any time so I didn’t see any value in testing the combination. Any thoughts?

Checked our #555 which we got a month ago (750 miles to date). Of the sixteen fasteners, 3 were sufficiently torqued. The remainder were somewhere between 20-35 ft lbs estimated. I tightened these in prep for a trip across the state this Saturday. First things I noted was that the fastener is a closed end “cap nut” similar to a lug nut and made of plain steel (all had a nice coat of surface rust already). Also the nuts on the axle straps already rusty. Seems like a better touch for a premium product would to use corrosion protected fasteners or at least clean and hit these with flat black corrosion paint after assembly.

No doubt it’s fun to drive. My 2010 F-150 literally weighed about 900 lbs more so if you hammer the new truck it is a blast! But I did not think I was buying a 6000 lb trailer (loaded) when I bought it. I’ll probably run it about 45-50k miles and get a GMC Duramax or a Ford diesel. My issue is my garage is only 20 ft deep so a short bed something is a must.

Not too surprised and thanks for responding. I heard it said the engine is all economy or it’s all boost, depending on driving conditions. I have ban keeping my trucks 7-8 years and 150k miles but think I’m going the run 3-4 years and trade it model for a change. I spent a lot on tires, brakes, etc. on high mile trucks in the past.

We are taking the factory tour next Friday! We have a seven month old F-150 with the Echoboost, 10 speed and 3.55 axle. What has been your impression of your truck pulling the Ollie?