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Steve, Sorry to hear of your poor experience with the Haloview MC7108. I am not familiar with this model, which apparently dates to 2019, based on the dates of YouTube reviews. The BT7 Touch, which I purchased, apparently dates to 2024. My experience with the BT7 Touch is limited to my 35 mile drive on Saturday and driveway testing following installation. In no case did I observe any flicker, dropouts or lag when viewing the monitor mounted to the windshield using the suction cup mount. The image was quite stable. As I mentioned, I folded the two antennas to rest horizontally on top to the monitor, which had no discernible effect on the performance of the monitor. If I recall correctly, the on screen signal strength meter dropped from 5 bars to 4. Also, on my short test drive, I was frequently looking back and forth from the TV mirrors to the BT7 Touch Monitor to compare the views to the rear and sides. The images on the BT7 Touch Monitor seemed to be real time images, with no delay, based on what I was seeing in the TV mirrors. We tow with a 2014 BMW X5 35d, using the standard door mounted side mirrors, plus a pair of Milenco MIL-2912 Grand Aero 3 Towing Mirrors. I have used these for 3-½ years, the entire time we have owned our LEII. I am very familiar with the view to the rear and sides provided by the mirrors, and I was comparing the increased visibility using the Haloview camera/monitor. We have a 200+ mile trip scheduled beginning August 27 (coincidentally 4 days prior to the closure of our Amazon return window). This will give me 3-4 hours driving time each way to observe the performance of the BT7 Touch camera/monitor. I will be happy to post an update following a trip of 400+ miles. Also, a minor clarification- The Haloview MC7108 Monitor resolution is apparently 1024x600, 720P high definition, not 4K. For reference, my Furrion, Model F0S43TADS, had resolution of 480x272. The Haloview BT7 Touch Monitor is 1920 x 1080, the resolution of 1080p (Full HD). Regards, Don

@Snackchaser, thanks for the kind words. I have admired you many technical posts. I recall seeing your posting on turning on the rear camera. I had several projects in my queue at the time, but will revisit. Don

I recently purchased a Haloview BT7 Touch Rear Camera to replace the Furrion Vision S Camera System (Model F0S43TADS) we purchased as an accessory option on our 2022 LEII. Following delivery of our trailer in February, 2022, it was quickly evident the Furrion camera was largely useless. I continued to use the Furrion camera, with increasing frustration. The very limited view to the rear was a safety issue. I began to research RV rear cameras and after reading many reviews selected the Haloview BT7 Touch. I was impressed by the specs and favorable reviews, but failed to note the camera is designed to mount to a vertical rear wall, not the sloping rear roof of an LEII. I could have returned the Haloview camera, but I did not see a good second choice. Thus, I decided to fabricate a mount to be installed in the same position as the Furrion camera. The result is the custom mount below: Fabrication Process I had some black acrylic sheet, .010" thick, from a prior project (See: Window Vent Mod- Louvered Ventilators), which seemed suitable material for a camera mount. I had some thicker acrylic sheet, but decided to first use the thinner sheet to create a mockup by bending the acrylic sheet. Initially, I had concerns the thinner sheet would not be sufficiently rigid to hold the camera steady, but I was not sure I could bend the thicker sheet. The Furrion camera and its mounting gasket were removed from the roof of our LEII and used to begin the layout of the base for the new mount. I wanted to use the four existing holes in the roof which held the Furrion camera in place. I had a scrap piece of acrylic about 7" wide and 20" long. I used 2" blue painter's tape applied to the acrylic and, with a fine point mechanical pencil, began marking out the mounting hole pattern from the Furrion gasket. Next, I flipped the scrap sheet of acrylic over, applied blue tape and began positioning the Haloview camera on the tape. My initial concept was to have the main part of the mount be a single piece of acrylic bent to an angle of approximately 80 degrees. When mounted to the sloped roof of the trailer, the face of the mount would be approximately vertical for mounting the Haloview camera. The layout of the mounting base resulted in the base being approximately 2.0" wide, and the nearly vertical mounting face approximately 3.5" tall. I also allowed about 0.75" for the bend radius. So, before bending the rectangular sheet of acrylic was approximately 6.25" x 7.0". I cut this piece from the end of the 20" long scrap. Before bending, I drilled all needed holes in the mount base, as marked during the layout process. NOTE: See YouTube for many useful videos on bending acrylic sheets. To bend the mounting base, I sandwiched the rectangular piece of acrylic between two pieces of scrap wood approximately 12" x 3", with the acrylic area to be bent aligned on the long side of the wood scraps. I extended the acrylic from the wood scrap approximately 2.5" to 3.0" in preparation for bending. I clamped the sandwiched pieces to my workbench to ensure it would not move during the bending process. Using a heat gun, I began to heat the area to be bent, moving back and forth. Wearing gloves, I held two other pieces of wood, each approximately 2" x 5". As the acrylic became heated, I applied gentle pressure to the extended portion of the acrylic, using the pieces of wood in my hand. I continued to move the heat gun along the bend area until I could begin to bend the acrylic. As the acrylic began to bend, I used care to keep the bend straight and at 90 degrees to the sides. I used a steel carpenter's square to test the acrylic as I bent it. As I approached the desired finished bend angle, I released the acrylic to check the angle. Satisfied with the bend angle I trimmed the top of the mounting base to the contour of the Haloview mounting gasket with a scroll saw. Having the mounting base bent as desired, I began to plan how I would make it sufficiently rigid to hold the camera steady. The photo below shows the other parts which would comprise the rear support area. Also at the rear I wanted to enclose the wiring connecting the camera to the 12VDC power from the trailer. Haloview BT7 Camera and mount parts Once the mounting base was bent as desired, I cut two pieces approximately 1" wide from either end of the mounting base using a table saw. These two pieces became the support brackets. Being bent at the same angle as the mounting base, they fit well to backup the mounting face. The triangular gussets also add rigidity, being bonded to the mounting base and the support brackets. The photo below shows the mounting base (face down) with the support brackets and gussets attached at the rear. Acrylic cement was used to weld all parts together. Mounting base face down with support brackets and gussets in place Side view of mounting base with support brackets and gussets in place To protect the power supply wiring from UV exposure and squirrels, I added a cover and a top piece across the gussets. The rear compartment does not need to be watertight, since the wiring connectors are watertight. Haloview includes a short adapter which connects to the existing Furrion connector protruding from the roof. The photos below show the camera on the mounting base and cover from the rear and side views. Mounting base and cover (Rear) Mounting base and cover (Side) Mounting the Camera to the LEII When I removed the Furrion camera from the roof of the trailer, I noticed several things: The 12VDC power supply wiring passes through a hole in the trailer and was effectively sealed with the white caulking used throughout the trailer. This was not visible before removing the Furrion mounting gasket. The sealant was in good condition, however, it formed a small mound on the roof of the trailer. The base of Furrion camera was hollow and the mounting gasket conformed to the mound, allowing the outer shell of the camera to meet the trailer roof. The holes for the screws holding the camera to the trailer roof are NOT through holes, reducing the risk of water leaks into the trailer. The Furrion camera was not mounted at the lateral center point of the trailer, but not so far off that I had noticed in over three years using the trailer. The Furrion camera was also not quite parallel to the Oliver sign just below its mounting position. From the ground this was not perceptible. There were multiple trial fittings of the new mount as the fabrication process proceeded. From these fittings the following adjustments were made: The mounting holes for the new base were elongated (using a Dremel tool) to permit the new mount to be swiveled slightly in azimuth to have the front face of the camera parallel with the top edge of the Oliver sign. Two acrylic "runners" approximately 0.5" wide and 2.0" long, were attached to the bottom of the mounting base to straddle the mound of caulk where the power supply wire passes through the roof. I reused the mounting screws, putting fresh caulk into the screw holes and around the screws. The new mount covers the same area where the power supply wire passes through the roof. It is protected from UV by the new mount, but water can run under the new mount. The Results The Haloview BT7 comes with two mounts, one with a suction cup for windshield mounting, the other a 3M VHB bonded disk for attachment to the upper dashboard. I prefer the windshield mount, which is substantial and widely adjustable. It is very stable, with no vibration. The signal strength indicated on the monitor showed a 5 bar strong connection to the rear camera. Monitor comparison- Haloview 7" vs. Furrion 4.3" (diagonals) Yesterday, I took a 35 mile shakedown cruise for the camera on the way to the storage facility. The Haloview camera and monitor have met all my expectations. The visibility to the rear is vastly improved. I now see vehicles approaching in the same lane and in lanes on either side. I was particularly impressed to see merging traffic entering the highway on my right, before I could see them in my mirrors. Overtaking traffic is now seen well before they come abreast of the trailer. In bright Texas sun, the video on the monitor is clear and not washed out. There is no jitter in video from the camera, and the signal was always strong, even with the antennas folded horizontally across the top of the monitor. The touch screen controls work well and are easily used while driving. Also, my custom mount proved to be very solid, with no vibration of the video due to camera movement. I recommend the Haloview BT7 Touch camera to anyone considering replacing their Furrion rear camera. Unfortunately, Haloview does not appear to have a roof mount adapter available. I had sent an email query to Haloview Support and received a reply indicating they did have such a mount and provided the following URL: https://www.haloview.com/bt-series-camera-peaked-cap-bracket-compatible-with-furrion-and-voyager-pre-wired-rvs.html. Nothing on this page convinced me it was a roof mount. It does say the Furrion hole pattern is matched for mounting to the trailer. But only if the Furrion camera was mounted to a vertical surface. I have not yet received a reply to my email pointing out they sent me a link to a vertical mount. I hope this is useful to other OTT owners with Furrion cameras. Regards, Don

Thanks for sharing your A/C replacement experience. The Tosot unit looks very attractive compared to the Dometic. Would you care to share the cost of the new unit plus installation? Thanks. Don

On a recent trip from Dallas to South Carolina we stayed in multiple locations with no (or very limited) communications capabilities (cell phone or WiFi). Over the three years we have owned our LEII, there have been many other occasions with no ability to communicate. As a result, we decided to order a Starlink Mini and a Starlink Router Mini to use on our trailer trips. I have been following Starlink related postings on the OTT Owners Forum, especially since the release of the Starlink Mini. I have found the postings by @Snackchaser particularly helpful in planning the installation of our Starlink system. I especially liked the use of a Power over Ethernet (PoE) injector to power the Starlink Mini and to provide an Ethernet connection from the built-in router back to the trailer, using a single cable. Installing the PoE injector and a DC powered router in the attic of the LEII seemed a reasonable location, being nearly directly above the exterior Furrion ports for connecting satellite and cable TV. So I planned to install in a similar location in the attic of our LEII, assembling a list of the components required. I ordered a PoE injector from MobileMustHave.com and the rest from Amazon. Once all the key components had been delivered, I began the installation, with the first step being to replace the Furrion Satellite coax port with an RJ45 pass-through connector and to fish an Ethernet cable from the basement to the attic. Replacing the Furrion coax connector with the RJ45 pass-through connector was no problem, even though enlarging the hole through fiberglass exterior shell was required. However, fishing an Ethernet cable from the basement to the attic proved to be a major obstacle. Although I have prior experience fishing wires through difficult spaces, I was unsuccessful getting a fish tape (or rods) from the attic to the basement. I could get the end of the fish tape rods down near the ceiling of the basement, where the interior shell ends and multiple cables run up to the attic area at the rear of the trailer, but not into the basement. As suggested, I tried following the A/C drain line and multiple other locations but could not get past the bottom of the inner shell into the basement. I tried running the fish tape/rods in both directions. No luck. Consequently, I began to ponder other installation locations inside the trailer for the PoE injector and Starlink Router Mini. After a couple of days, I had an Aha! moment- install the PoE Injector and Router Mini under the rear dinette seat. I inspected the space between the basement and the rear dinette seat, nearly all of which is readily accessible from the two rear street side hatches and the rear dinette seat hatch. Only the space under the battery compartment is not accessible from directly above, but is easily accessed from either side. I looked for any obstacles to using this location and found none. I could easily route the Ethernet cable from the Furrion/RJ45 pass-through connector forward to beneath the rear dinette seat. I located the PoE Injector atop the trailer frame member, just below the Progressive surge protector box, which is mounted on the aisle wall of the rear dinette seat. The PoE jack and the power terminals of the PoE Injector are positioned toward the front of the trailer. I connected a 20 foot shielded Cat 6 cable from the inner side of the Furrion/ RJ45 port, then routed it under the floor of the basement, around the street side rear stabilizer, then following the waste water line, forward to the area under the rear dinette hatch. About 3 feet of excess cable are coiled in the basement, concealed by the rear wall of the basement. I installed a lighted rocker switch through the forward basement wall, mounted high, almost directly above the side-to-side bubble level on the left side of the basement entry. This switch is to control 12VDC power to the PoE Injector and the Starlink Router Mini. Using 14 AWG silicone coated wire, I ran two purple colored wires from the space beneath the rear dinette hatch back to the rocker switch on the forward basement wall. A third, 14 AWG black wire was also run along the same route to the rocker switch. The switch has two terminals with red lead wires,: one to the DC power source and one to the load. The third terminal has a black wire, which connects to ground (the bus bar). The ground wire enables the light on the switch to operate when DC power is ON. On the DC power panel, position 15, I installed a 15 amp fuse. One of the purple wires connects to the 12VDC positive terminal on the PoE Injector. The other purple wire connects to position 15 on the rear of the DC power panel, using a crimp on connector. The single black wire from the switch connects to the ground bus located under the rear dinette seat. Another 14 AWG wire connects the PoE Injector negative terminal with the other end connecting to the bus bar. All wire-to-wire connections were made using Wago lever lock connectors. I also added a 12VDC auxiliary power outlet (cigarette lighter type) which is connected to the same circuit as that which powers the PoE Injector. An Anker 323 USB-C Car Charger Adapter (USB Power Delivery (PD) capable) plugs into the auxiliary power outlet. A USB-C to Male to DC 3.5 x 1.35mm Male Power Jack is used to power the Starlink Router Mini from the Anker charger. I found the Starlink Router Mini conveniently fits on top of the Progressive Surge Protector box. I later secured it with a releasable zip tie around the surge protector. The 20 foot Cat 6 Ethernet cable from the rear connects to the PoE jack of the PoE Injector. A 5 foot Cat 6 Ethernet cable connects to the LAN jack of the PoE Injector and to the WAN/Satellite port of the Starlink Router Mini. All Cat 6 Ethernet cables used are shielded. I believe this installation location approach has several advantages over an attic installation: Access is MUCH easier. Fishing wires is no challenge. A dedicated circuit from the DC power panel provides power to all Starlink related components. A lighted switch for the PoE Injector and Starlink Router Mini is located in the basement, near the exterior pass-through Ethernet jack. The PoE Injector is located where it cannot be covered by clothing or other cargo stored in the attic which might cause overheating. The VERY bright blue light on the PoE Injector is not visible in the cabin (always ON if power to the PoE Injector is ON). The Starlink Router Mini is located centrally in the trailer and should provide uniform WiFi coverage within the trailer. We have not yet taken the Starlink on a shakedown trip, but plan to do so at the end of August. Regards, Don

Like @Snackchaser, I use a luggage scale to get an accurate read on the propane level in the tanks. I purchased a pair of Mopeka sensors and found them to be unreliable and not very accurate. I had a couple replaced under warranty. They also seemed to have need frequent battery replacement. I would NOT recommend them. Amazon has a large selection of luggage scales for about $10, that are compact and accurate. With tare weight labelled on both tanks there is no mystery to the amount of propane when the total weight is known. Such as: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Portable-Handheld-Suitcase-Temperature/dp/B082LYC2TN/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2PAZR2PQNSA24&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.lrxtiYiAaOxFumPFwJLLfi-V2pD7fJpKxfsl6UyzsKbSFL3YNBR0L1a7Px8SBzHhhW25VLBh912CrUyahxdkUjT1pqB3pRe933JDFfDr7ZaTgoTCb1mXdfINMMhl5OU0FibEUB2mMbq_9R89XeAeSb5MhrkSnnQ5YT6uUSpTQctrjSJqa-90Rcwkt-jGQLzD4jSFjCSRtp-YFlVIJhme_3etEGEES17uG605HrMmwLGyk2YZsL2lLr-nGzZUe7jC60bztrvKDpr9oVktN97bzUFLTJ8jfQEvF9T4OU-tq1A.NFHYzomQyFXtHPcZxq8NaPUGd5FyqkWMxZL0L2YMZgw&dib_tag=se&keywords=digital%2Bluggage%2Bscale&qid=1754537940&sprefix=digital%2Blugga%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-7&th=1 Don

Correction: The tongue weight scale is Sherline, NOT Shoreline. despite what auto-correct thinks.

I also purchased the Shoreline Tongue Weight Scale. It works well and appears to be reasonable accurate. I also weighed our TV and LEII on a CAT scale and computed the tongue weight. The tongue weight reported by the Shoreline scale and the computed weight from the CAT scale were reasonably close, ~500 lbs. I have only measured our tongue weight once with the scale. Unless you make a significant modification or change how you load the trailer, I would not expect the tongue weight to vary much. Given the low frequency of use, I would try to borrow one from a friend, or perhaps rent a tongue weight scale, if one can be found.

@TxMN2020, I have just sent you a personal message which includes my phone number. I am offering my assistance to help work through the battery charging issues you have described. I have a 2022 Oliver Legacy Elite II, Hull 990, which is equipped with Lithionics lithium batteries. I live in North Dallas. Please give me a call. Don

@ghopkins1033, Yes, we still regularly use our exterior towel bar assembly. It has held up well. I have not had to replace any components. I had added two support tubes which connected to two tees in the outer bar, at the suggestion of @Bill and Nancy. The support tubes had suction cups at the opposite end to connect to the body of the trailer at approximately a 45 degree angle. I no longer use the two supports, due to another suggestion from @Bill and Nancy. @Bill and Nancy, operate The Bird Store, which offers bird feeders which utilize suction cups for mounting. They recommend their customers apply a thin coating of petroleum jelly or olive oil to suction cups to improve their holding capability on smooth surfaces. The lubricant applied to the primary suction cups eliminated the need for the additional supports. I now apply a very thin coating of petroleum jelly or olive oil to the 4" primary suction cups before mounting the assembled rack to the body of our LEII. The addition of the lubricant to the suction cups substantially increases their holding capability. The two 4" suction cups now easily maintain a load of as many towels as we can fit on the 4 tubes of the rack. The suction cups are easily removed by raising their levers and lifting an edge of the suction cup. A plastic putty knife is also useful for releasing the grip of the suction cups. We have learned to use clips on towels/clothing hung on the PVC tubes of the towel rack to prevent the wind blowing them off. The clips also help to keep the towels from blowing against the body of the LEII, which is not always free of road grime. I usually put a clip on a towel just below the PVC tubes, holding the towel on either side of the tube. We have found clips for chip bags serve well for this purpose. Walmart is a reliable source of inexpensive clips. I usually assemble the towel rack on a picnic table, where I also apply the lubricant to the suction cups. A small amount of lubricant also helps the PVC tubes to slide more easily into the couplings. Disassembly is very quick. Little space is required for stowage when knocked down. Regards, Don

@jd1923, the remote control for our MaxxAir fan (2022) has 8 buttons, as does yours, but a different key arrangement than yours. It appears to have the button functions corresponding to yours. There is a button on my control showing an icon of an opening cover. When I press this key, to fan cover opens, but the fan remains OFF. Have you tried pressing the VENT OPN/CLS button? This may do what you want. Regards, Don

RV LIFE Trip Wizard also has filters for city and county parks, 2 of the 12 categories of park types it offers. @jd1923, kudos for assembling the route plan you posted. I learned there are categories which deserve more of my attention when planning routes. Don

Yesterday, I retrieve OTT LEII Hull 990 from storage to prepare for a photo trip to shoot fall color in The Smoky Mountains National Park. Upon arrival home, I unhitched, connected shore power and turned ON the Norcold 3-way Refrigerator. The refrigerator would not startup on AC shore power and the fault indicator on the door displayed an "A". I consulted the Norcold N41x_ N51x_Service Manual and found troubleshooting steps in P. 21. I checked the AC breaker in the power panel under the rear dinette seat, which was ON. I checked the GFCI protected outlets and they were ON. Next, I removed the exterior access panel to the refrigerator, next to the entry door. I removed the AC supply line from the refrigerator (located in the lower left, near the control board cover) and found NO AC voltage on the supply line. This morning, I phoned OTT Technical Support and described the problem and symptoms and asked if there we any other breakers or fuses between the breaker panel and the refrigerator. Mike Strong informed me there were none. He did, however, tell me the refrigerator AC supply line plugs into an outlet below the left/forward galley drawers. This outlet is accessed by removing the bottom two drawers and removing a thin plywood hatch attached with four wood screws to the bottom panel of the drawer cabinet. I proceeded to remove the drawers and found the plywood panel. Removal of the wood screws requires a short Phillips screw driver. I used a small ratchet set with a ¼" Phillips No. 2 bit to remove the screws. I found the outlet and the AC supply line to the refrigerator. The AC plug was partially dislodged from the AC outlet. I reinserted the plug and tightened the zip tie, which had been installed to prevent the plug from vibrating or otherwise coming out of the outlet. With AC power restored, the refrigerator now operates normally. The first step in the troubleshooting flowchart on P. 21 of the service manual calls for checking the AC power input to the refrigerator. However, it provided no clue to the existence of the concealed AC outlet beneath the galley drawers. My thanks to Mike for informing me where to find the concealed outlet. Our trailer was delivered in mid-February, 2022, and now has traveled over 12,000 miles. I suspect the cause of the AC plug dislodging from the outlet was vibration while underway. I would expect other OTT owners will have similar experiences. See photos below. Access hatch removal AC outlet as found with plug dislodged (note position of zip tie) AC outlet and plug with zip tie relocated and tightened Regards, Don

@Blain, Champion Power Equipment offer a number of dual fuel models, including a 3400 watt model, which can produce a maximum of 25.5 starting amps and 23.3 running amps when running on propane. The downside of this larger capacity generator is a weight slightly over 95 pounds. In contract my 2500 watt generator (Model 200961) approximately 40 pounds. Check the specs of these generators to ensure they will fit into the front storage box. You should also check the allowable tongue weight of your tow vehicle to ensure a heavy generator does present too much weight. How did you determine you need a generator capable of producing 30amps? I suggest this is overkill for an LEI. Do you really want to carry gasoline in your tow vehicle? As @dewdev pointed out, our LEII does not have the Truma AC unit. From what I have read on the OTT forum, I expect Oliver will confirm the Truma AC unit has lower power requirements than the Dometic Penguin. I suggest you add details of your tow vehicle and LEl below your signature, which will help other owners to make appropriate recommendations. Don

@Blain, I purchased a Champion 2500 Watt Dual Fuel Generator in late 2021, prior to our delivery of our LEII, Hull 990 in February, 2022. See: https://www.amazon.com/Champion-Power-Equipment-2500-Watt-Technology/dp/B0CRLWJSSX/ref=dp_fod_sccl_1/134-9963084-0325038?pd_rd_w=Z6nsM&content-id=amzn1.sym.783fbbc9-65f4-4105-bb20-37dc32815d16&pf_rd_p=783fbbc9-65f4-4105-bb20-37dc32815d16&pf_rd_r=C3KWVM2SBJ484K0Q57BW&pd_rd_wg=GJSmQ&pd_rd_r=3b8f7d10-4b53-41bc-b17e-e7792cfe7baa&pd_rd_i=B0CRLWJSSX&th=1 I have been very pleased with the operation of this generator, which I have operated only on propane. We carry it in a rear mounted cargo carrier on the LEII. I have actually used the generator more often at our residence in Dallas, TX when we have experienced extended power outages. It easily powers a large chest freezer and a 20+ cubic foot refrigerator/freezer. This generator will run 12-14 hours on one 20 pound tank of propane when supporting these appliances. On gasoline, this generator will operate for about 6 hours, depending upon load. This generator can also be paired with another similar Champion generator OR a larger model for additional capacity. I have no found the need purchase a second generator. Not having to haul gasoline onboard is a major advantage. I adapted the fuel hose on the Champion generator to connect to the low pressure connections on our LEII. The Champion 2500 Watt Dual Fuel Generator powers our Dometic Penguin air conditioner on the LEII. We purchased a Micro-Air EasyStart for the A/C unit as an option on our LEII. The generator will NOT power the Dometic Penguin A/C unit without the Micro-Air EasyStart. I did quite a bit of research prior to purchasing this generator. It costs approximately that of a gas only Honda generator and has produces about the same level of noise as the Honda. I also looked at propane conversions kits for the Honda generators and found these were an additional $250 to $300, AND installing them voided the Honda warranty. I would not hesitate to make the same purchase again, if needed. I see no downside to purchasing from Champion. Regards, Don

I also use The Collar and an Abus disk lock to secure the Bulldog coupler. Both were sourced from Heartland Lock. I prefer The Collar over other coupler locks, since it can be used to secure the trailer when both hitched and unhitched. In addition, I purchased a pair of chrome steel ball bearings from Amazon. I must give credit to @John E Davies. See:

@CRM, if your are experiencing low water pressure when NOT connected to city water, but using the water pump to draw from the fresh tank, then check the filter on the input to the water pump. I recently was investigating an issue where the pump would not draw water from the fresh tank. Upon checking the filter at the input to the pump, I found it clogged with a slimy residue (see attached photo. I removed the fine wire mesh from the filter housing and washed both with Dawn dish detergent. Water flow is much improved with a clean filter.

@Cort, I second the recommendation of @Geronimo John to add ventilation fans to improve the operation of the Norcold 3-way refrigerator. This is not a difficult project. Also, I had little problem routing the fan control to the front cabinet, immediately behind the control panel. Feel free to send me a PM if you have questions. See:

@Leftwinger, I missed seeing your request for an article on the installation of the 4 pin wiring harness to provide lights for our rear mounted cargo carrier. I have not gotten around to writing the article. However, if you still would like the details, send me a PM and I will respond. Regards, Don

@johnwen, you are correct- yellow is ground and red is 12VDC. I believe you were referring to the image below: Please note, I later relocated the fan control to the upper storage cabinet above the refrigerator and microwave oven. The power connections for the fans remained unchanged from what is shown above. Regards, Don

@Geronimo John, the airflow around the fans is unobstructed. I suspect what you are seeing is the sloped interior wall above the refrigerator covered in aluminum tape. The fans do pull outside air into the lower vent and out the upper vent, where they are mounted. The flow of air is noticeable and I usually have them running at 50% of max speed, or less. The two fans easily produce sufficient airflow to significantly improve the performance of the refrigerator. Don

@johnwen, The fans on our LEII mount to the inner edge of the flange around the vent opening. Not to the slanted panel inside the vent opening. There was no cutting of the fiberglass. In the three photos below you should be able to see the screw heads which clamp onto the edge of the fiberglass. There are also small metal "ears" fastened with hex screws to the fan frame. The combination of the "ears" and the large screw head serve as a clamp. The fans are quite secure using this mounting mechanism. Regards, Don

@ThomB87, the fans are installed in the top vent. When they are running the movement of ward air from the upper vent is noticeable. There is very little fan noise. As @Ray Kimsey describes, only a 12VDC and a ground connection are required to run the fans. Attached to the fans is what looks like another wire, but is a temperature sensor. This is run down behind the regfrigerator. A small remote control panel is also attached to the fans with 5 or 6 feet of wire. I ran wires for the remote control up behind the main control panel near the entry door. There is an access hole behind the control panel, with a round cover. This is inside the forward most storage compartment above the refrigerator and microwave oven. I did not like having to remove the lower panel to access the fan controls. Also, the fan control has a bright blue LED which is visible outside the trailer if located behind the lower panel. Access from inside the trailer requires only opening the storage compartment and removing the round cover. This location also contains the annoying blue light on the remote control, which cannot be turned OFF.

@Nancy_D, we have a Norcold 3-way refrigerator and use it to freeze the blue freezer bricks. We typically use 6 bricks, in 2 groups of three and rotate the groups as needed to refreeze them. Typically this is a daily rotation. We have added supplemental fans mounted at the rear of our Norcold refrigerator, which make a significant improvement in the cooling capabilities of the Norcold refrigerator, especially when outdoor temperatures are high. If you encounter problems with you refrigerator, I recommend use considering the Beech Lane Refrigerator Fans The freezer bricks always refreeze overnight. I don't know exactly how long they take to refreeze, which will vary somewhat depending on the outside temperature and activity opening the door.

@Mountainman198 great idea? Could you please provide a link to the bins? I had no luck searching Target's website. Thanks, Don