DavePhelps

For the Commercial flaps, I read 85 inch-pounds. Even small bolts need special care in certain situations! Not that this is one of them however. I did just notice that after my recent trip before my last post, that one of my bolts had fallen out somewhere. So I emailed Rockstar about the situation of their torque spec and the rubber flaps not being able to support that kind of compression. I asked if using blue loc-tite would be a better solution. All they said was yes it would be OK. So I redid all the bolts with 5/16x1-1/2" SS fender washers and Blue loctite. With the larger washer, I was able to achieve 85 in-pounds with minimal distortion, but it's really probably not necessary with loc-tite. I just did it to see what would happen. Even with loc-tite and less torque, I think a washer is a good idea however. Dave

Took me a while to get to this.... I also have the Rockstar Commercial Flaps on my rig and really like it. My old flaps clamped on to my ball mount shank and were just OK. It made removing and placing the ball mount a very cumbersome and heavy affair. These are way more convenient to put on and take off since they are separate from the ball mount and do a much better job protecting the trailer from flying debris. Perhaps because they sit further forward under the bumper. My rig is gas but the cutout is similar I'm sure. Perfect fit. I added stainless steel fender washers to the bolts that attach the crossbar to the rubber flaps to spread out the load. The torque spec in the install guide was pulling the heads too deep into the rubber for my taste. Even with the washers, I didn't get as tight as was specified. But no issues with many miles on them. You'll love them! Cheers, Dave

OK, better pic.....

I just completed a Victron update to all the solar components in our trailer, including the Victron 50amp DC-DC charger. It has been great. I was originally thinking of doing the work myself but soon realized I was too far out of my comfort zone regarding the complexities of the install. This job I delegated! Expensive, yes. But The job as it was done went way beyond my expectations. I was very lucky to find an outfit locally that really knew what they were doing and take great pride in their work. The cost of the DC-DC charger was part of a much larger project so hard to break it out. There will be two sides to your install, the TV and your trailer. I found a way to fish 4awg cables from the streetside rear dining seat (where the battery box is) forward, under the bathroom sink, and then out the front of the trailer next to the 7-pin plug cable. The charger is mounted on top of the battery box. My truck luckily has a battery distribution fuse block with multiple fuses up for grabs including a 60 amp fuse to which the truck-side wiring was attached. The truck wiring terminated with an Anderson plug that was bolted to the underside of my bumper with a custom bracket directly under the 7 pin plug (which is next to my license plate). This location I highly recommend as it makes attaching your fairly large 7 pin and DC-DC charging cables nicely aligned and easier to manage. I'm getting similar charging profiles as JD iirc. For me, I don't like traveling with propane on, so I switch to DC mode on my fridge when under way. Always have full batteries on arrival! These new lithium batteries charge up fast if they can get the power and this little charger really delivers! Of course, it only works when your running your TV. So, as JD mentioned, this will be of no benefit if boondocking and stationary. That's where your remote solar panels come in to play if you have them. I suppose worst case, you could use your TV as a giant generator to charge your batteries but many campgrounds, especially in the National Park system, or in CG's that don't allow portable generators, this would not be allowed. Super glad I got the charger, no regrets! 👍👍 Dave

I don't have the Truma, but on mine, the condensate line at the AC was not hooked up at the factory. I'd pull off your interior cover and see if yours has come loose, or was overlooked at the factory. Easy fix if that is all it is. Good luck. Dave

As far as the more traditional RV hoses that won't collapse in a siphon scenario, the very best that I have found are the ones sold by The Water Filter Store. The fittings are excellent and the hose is also very high quality material. They will also custom make them to length as you require. https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/products/custom-built-hoses Dave

OK just checked my PM's and looks like my charger has found a home in csevel's Ollie! 👍 Onward. Dave

Right you are! I was thinking of the service rating for the trailer. It is a 45 amp charger. Hope someone could use this. I was hoping to keep it "in the family"! Cheers, Dave

I will mail it out to anyone who could use it FREE of charge. PM me with your address if you are interested! Dave

Yes it does! You can see it in the bottom left of the pic. It's a small switch. Dave

Greetings all, I bought this 30 amp charger from Etrailer a while back when I was planning to convert to Lithium batteries. My plans changed in the end and I ended up using all Victron components. I'm sure it's too late to return it now. So, if any one out there could use this brand new and never used/installed PD 30 amp converter/charger, I will mail it to you free of charge. It does have the Lithium switch. Model Number PD4045CSV Serial Number A24225FO325851 Cheers, Dave

Glad you discovered the problem. Regarding the water filter o-ring, I like to lube it with a small amount of silicone based plumber's grease. It helps with the seal and keeps the o-ring in good shape. Also, don't over tighten the filter screen housing. Firm hand tight is all that is needed. No tools! Cheers, Dave

I've read that the PB Platinum models have a payload capacity around 1250 lbs. The Lariat will be a bit more, but not sure how much. Do your calculations and be safe! Cargo weight adds up in a hurry with just the most basic things (passengers, canopy, hitch/mudflaps, tongue weight...) The 6.5" bed would be what I would pick for many reasons including the longer wheelbase, which will improve your ride. Living in the great state of Wyoming, and the inter-Mountain West, if I was towing with only a 30 gallon gas tank, I'd for sure carry an extra 5 gallons in the back. My tank is 36 gallons and I have already needed it! Good luck and hope the new truck works well for you. Dave

So the rear Oliver lense strikes again.... I would also check those marker lights. The one under the O of the Oliver sign especially. If it leaks, the water would run down its supply wire where it looks like it touches your TV cables. The water would then continue down that cable and into the cabin. All those wires up there with no drip loops designed in are are major pathway for water to travel to far off places. I had drips out my rear speaker from one of those marker lights.... Cheers, Dave

That connection can be a sticky one and I've had the same issue. What works for me is to keep the leg attached at the floor, position yourself facing the window, up against the table, back straight, and give that table a good quick lift. If it comes free I would recommend paraffin over trusty WD-40 to lubricate the connection. On my leg, it's just a plastic cap over the aluminum leg with a single metal spring clip. Rub the paraffin all over that and you should be good to go. Don't be afraid to reef on that connection to get it to come off. Good luck. Dave