NCeagle

I did not ask where the Airskirts were made. I do have some concerns about how they would fit around the steps of the Ollie. There would be large gaps without a custom set of smaller air bags. As I mentioned in a previous post, I'll be running lots of tests this winter in my driveway to see if skirts (and other things) make a big difference in various temps, winds, etc. I'll post anything I discover. I'm a data freak. Might be the first time ever I actually hope NC gets some frigid temps for my tests. 🙂 In the end, my preference will be to try and give the Ollie a customized "cold weather package" and not worry about skirts. I've got a lot of good ideas on where to start from reading this forum. Will definitely keep in touch!

Thanks connor77. Good to know there will be someone else with an Oliver trying some really cold weather camping. We'll have to share things we learn. I've skied Sugarloaf and Sunday River in the past... love it when the conditions are right. I've started buying some things for winter camping just in case although this winter I'm unlikely to try and pull anything off before I learn more. No skirts yet - that's going to require some testing first. btw, there's another Oliver owner / skier on this forum that I've met virtually called DonnaDuane who skis the west coast mts. in his Ollie. Cheers!

These are on sale 16% off right now on Amazon and the lowest price in 30 days. I'm pulling the trigger on them since I pick up in 5 weeks and will be within the return window if they don't clear / fit or something. I suspect the price will creep up as winter gets closer and closer.

I would think the Z-chains that JD mentioned would be the best option since they are really cables that snug very close to the tire when properly sized. Real chains do have a bit of play in them and definitely require more clearance around everything.

Interesting. Sort of a coin toss, but I'd go with a single, larger battery as that is a more future-proof approach in my mind. You'd have room to grow / add if you wanted with 1 larger capacity battery. Not so with 2 smaller ones if they fill your tray. Of course, if you can't add a new battery to an older one to create a set this is a moot point. 🙂

It is the Girard GG750 according to the owners manual in the University and the length I have learned from Sales is 16' on the Elite II.

Ok, no worries. If you listen to the video John also says you "may" damage the plumbing (as JD mentions), so I think they are in fact worried that some owners may use unregulated air pressure. Really it's all irrelevant unless it voids the warranty on the plumbing. I just had questions about the statements since they seem to go against common practices.

"We DO NOT recommend using blown air to winterize your travel trailer!" is also called out in that video. What's up with that?? From what I've read, it seems nearly everyone uses air to blow out the lines before pumping in the antifreeze - not just Ollie owners. I actually thought blowing out the lines before using antifreeze was recommended as the only sure way to get ALL the water out. Is it just a case of some owners using too much pressure and blowing up the plumbing and this is the way to say it's not covered by warranty?

I am seeing two different threads with the same topic name of "LifeBlue Battery Representative". This one has 25 (26 counting this one) replies and the other one has 75 replies with a lot of information on it as well. Pretty confusing actually - didn't think having alternate universe threads would be possible?

I have "real" chains as opposed to cables (https://www.etrailer.com/p-TC3829.html) on the truck. I chose the V Bar linked chains for the best traction in deep snow AND ice because I carry them skiing in the Rockies with me, but I haven't had to use them yet (thankfully). I also bought the spring tensioner (https://www.etrailer.com/p-TCSA2.html), although I'm not convinced they are absolutely necessary. I saw a lot of positive reviews for the spring tensioners mentioned with these particular chains. I also noticed that these chains are on sale (at least right now) for a lot less than I paid several years ago.

I've got chains for my truck. I need chains for one axle on the Oliver. I'm looking at something similar (cables) to the Peerless brand Jim mentioned from Security Chain Company: Security Chain Company ZT729 Super Z LT Light Truck and SUV Tire Traction Chain - Set of 2

Hi SeaDawg, if I were going to name my Ollie, it would probably be "Powder Hound". I love skiing, especially in the deepest powder I can find. 🙂 For the past 3 seasons, I've been driving my truck (from NC) to CO, UT, WY, etc., and bouncing around for 3-4 weeks at various ski resorts. I love having the mobility and flexibility to pack up quickly and go wherever the best conditions are. I have gotten so many more quality days in the past 3 years doing this than I had in the past flying in for a week and hoping it snowed where I was staying. Anyway, I can't live in my truck so I use expensive hotels and my dream is to try and do this in the Ollie. I specifically picked the Oliver because I feel it's the best true 4 season TT in the industry. Conditions in the Rockies in the winter can vary from sunny and 40 degrees to storming and below zero - not to mention high altitudes where propane and other things also don't work as well if at all. The more prepared I am for cold, windy conditions for days at a time, the higher my chances are of not having to pack up and leave. My ultimate winter camping trip would be to get to a ski resort and set up camp in nice, 30 degree sunny weather just before the big storm. I would need to hunker down and ride out the storm. These storms often include huge wind, thus I am thinking about the skirts as something that would help in those situations. I would dig out after the storm and have several epic days of powder skiing. I'd find out where the next storm was going to be and go do it again. This is truly possible: https://rvacrossamerica.net/winter-rv-camping-ski-resorts/ The plan was to have most of this year to get to know the Ollie and prepare a bit for the much more difficult winter camping adventures, but having to wait 6 months for the Ollie put a damper on that. The pandemic also may force me to try it this winter as a rookie. I've PM'd with DonnaDuane, who has experience skiing with the Oliver and offered some very good tips. They have not considered a skirt where they ski (Cascades), but said that if in the Rockies at higher altitudes they would. It's rare to see a camper without skirts in a ski camp area. I can't find any data/proof that they actually work, but common sense dictates that they most likely help and certainly don't hurt. I don't want to be the only travel trailer to have to pack up and leave for some reason - that would be embarrassing. If I decide to try skirting, I would want something that doesn't take up much space, is lightweight/portable, doesn't require drilling and is fast to set up and take down. The air tubes seem to meet these criteria but I'm still researching. I don't think they look cool (I'm laughing at the hovercraft vision 🤣) but I'm glad someone does! By the way, my expectations of pulling this off this winter are low - but if I don't it won't be because I didn't try. Here's a great video about challenges RVs, TTs and MH's have in the Rocky Mt. winters: I think the weakest link in the Oliver is going to be the refrigerator. Unless the model has changed, I don't think a heat kit can be added to the one we have in the Oliver. I will prepare to live without a fridge on my first ski trips, but that will be one of the first things I "upgrade" (there are models that supports heat kits, etc. - very similar to the low temp lithium batteries Oliver chose) I'm going to at least practice and test around here on some cold nights. 90% of the time my wife and I will be leaving winter gear behind and camping in tropical sunshine and fair weather and loving every minute of it!

Thank you Dean!!!

I've spent well over an hour searching and can't come up with anything but guesses. 😬 If/when time allows, can a current Elite II owner measure and post the distance from the ground to the bottom of the propane cover on the tongue when the Oliver is sitting level? Thanks in advance.

I don't see anything out there yet as far as reviews, etc., as I think they may be too new. I suspect they would work as well as any other skirt if it fits - I was interested due to it's simplicity and portability (cost aside). Skirts can be made for free using snow if one so desires, but I'm willing to pay for something if it's innovative and works. So skirts.... no I don't plan to live full time or camp through and arctic winter in my Oliver. But... I want to insure that if I'm on a winter camping trip and it gets pretty cold (Rocky mountain cold) for a few weeks or even a few days in a row, I won't have to pack up and leave because my plumbing may freeze. I actually prefer to chase storms in the winter as opposed to run from them. I'd love to hear from other owners about this if they have cold weather experience in their Ollies. There really isn't a ton of information to go on in this forum as far as owners sharing cold weather camping experiences, but I've read the few posts I could find and there are definitely comments and common problem areas in and around the basement and/or plumbing called out. Everyone has tried various things to move warm air around better from the living area to the basement, etc. I'd rather use skirts if they would accomplish the same or make the best in the industry even better? In the end, it's $$ for skirts or $ + time for electric heaters and fans and heat tape and insulation, etc. Have any owners tried or run some tests in the cold and found skirts to be a waste of money on an Oliver? If not, I'll be running some tests with makeshift skirts and a bunch of temperature sensors at home before I splurge on anything. If it saves money (less propane/elec in the Winter and Summer), headaches and potential damage, then it pays for itself pretty fast.

Hi John, I'm interested in the clearance around the perimeter of the body to see if https://www.airskirts.com/ would work on the Oliver. I spoke to the owner of the company this morning (super nice, responsive guy) and he thinks a small RV kit with a few modifications to the sizes of the tubes would work. I'm going to ask him what the diameter of those tubes are to make sure the Oliver doesn't sit too high off the ground for them. Thanks.

The camper shell works out great for the bikes. I like the looks of Patriot's system, but I'm lazy so I just leave the front tires on and lean the bikes to get them through the back door. Once in the shell they can stand up straight and I just use tie down straps to secure them there. I have a hitch bike rack that I've used over the years when my truck bed was full and we still wanted our bikes - but I don't like that much because the bikes were always filthy after a trip - including fine dust and dirt in the chains, etc. I like them inside for sure. I've only had to take my shell off maybe a half a dozen times in the 14 years I've had it. I have an easy system where I can take it off and put it on by myself - takes about 30 minutes for each. I use a pair of 2' x 4's suspended from my garage ceiling by ratcheting straps. I slide the boards under my topper and then ratchet it up off the truck and drive off. Even so, I think if I had to take it off a lot more often I'd think twice about it too. I see why you might be hesitating to get the bigger top... not quite as easy to work with as the tonneau covers. Good luck - so many options.... 🙂

Hi all, I'm trying to figure out the clearances around the body of the Elite II. Has anyone by chance ever measured this? I'm guessing from pictures and the size of the tires that it's about 16" but I hope someone has measured or knows this offhand. Also assuming it's the same all around but that may not be true. Thanks!!!

My receiver is 22" from ground to center, 23 1/4" to the top inside edge. Oliver has told me (and there are numerous confirmations on this forum) that 23.5 to the top of ball is optimal. Just so happens that if I use a hitch without rise/drop, I'm super close to 23.5" unloaded. I found through simulated load testing (using a 600 lb. tongue weight and several hundred more pounds worth of camping gear in the back) that my truck will drop about 1". I have air springs, so I can just add air to bring my truck back up to 23.5". If I didn't have the air springs, I could have used the longer shank ball with stacked washers or found a hitch with a 1" or so rise. Using my example, you will be 1" low when unloaded and somewhere between 1-2" low when loaded. If you drop another 2" with your receiver, you will be 3-4" lower than recommended. I don't know if that's within specs - seems based on Oliver's response it may be fine. I think if you used air springs (relatively inexpensive and easy to install for someone with basic mechanical skills) and some stacked washers on the ball you could get pretty close to level. Another option is just get a camper shell for your truck and the bikes will stay nice and cozy in there. That's what my wife and I do.

Here's some cool storage boxes I put in the bed of my truck a few months ago called "Swing Case" that I'm really loving so far (Undercover SwingCase Truck Bed Storage Box | SC101D | Fits 99-07 Chevrolet Silverado/GMC Sierra 1500-3500Drivers Side 1500-3500). I bought the Chevy brand and they make similar cases for the other major pickup truck brands. They use the spaces behind the wheel well that are tough to use. They are easy to remove if you want to use the entire bed for plywood or sheet rock, etc. They swing out for easy access to the storage which is awesome because I used to have to jump up into the bed to get to my toolbox in the back. Here's what they look like installed: I have all my tools in the one on the driver side - and I carry a large assortment so pretty heavy. On the left hand side, here's some pictures of what I have packed in there: Holds a surprising amount of stuff: ratchet wrenches, a collapsible utility shovel, 2 tie down straps, a rain suit, heavy duty booster cables and a tire repair kit. Even if I have things in the middle of the bed that are in the way, I can easily move them out onto my tailgate to make room to swing the box. The price is pretty steep, so I started with one and liked it so much I ended up buying the other side.

Yeah, I definitely see your points. I was trying to figure out why you only have 10 full cycles on your batteries over 3 years and I think I remember you mentioning in another thread that you camp where you don't need the A/C that often! I'm still glad I'm getting Lithium - I will need the A/C and plan on using space heaters for winter camping (lots of ski trips). 😉 Extra Ah could reduce propane dependency for me as well. Do you think it has reduced your propane dependency at all? If nothing else, I'll not have to get out and jump in my truck and get the generator as often as I would have otherwise. Can't really put a price on that. 🙂

hmmm... interesting perspective that cost is a big (seemingly negative) factor for you, I agree that cost is a big factor but I definitely went with Lithium because I was sold on lower maintenance and longer life that over time should be significantly LESS expensive. I have come to the conclusion that if you have batteries, no matter what kind, and you dry camp, you will always have to consider having a generator of some sort with you or risk not being able to recharge (solar or otherwise). If I didn't think I was getting more value over time for the Lithiums, I would have passed. Hope I didn't make a mistake, but only time will tell.

Ah - yes - good catch... 15 amps AC with the generator. For all solar charging, it looks like I'll be able to use the BMS app to monitor the charging amps and either plug in my solar suitcase or not... that's sweet!

I'm planning on just using the package price to keep it simple. I don't know any better and Oliver has been nice enough to call it a "Solar Package". 🙂

Actually, it makes no sense to me whatsoever to try and prorate something that you haven't even used yet!! 😏 But we are talking about the federal government! Trust your tax advisor of course. Based on what I know from research and what Larry said about what other customers do, I will be taking the credit for the entire package. Here's a good summary that is in line with other things I've read... https://www.wholesalesolar.com/solar-information/federal-tax-credit#:~:text=Solar Tax Credit History&text=As of January 1%2C 2020,your solar system%2C including installation.