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Jim_Oker

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Jim_Oker last won the day on October 5 2021

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My Info

  • Gender or Couple
    Couple

My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Hull #
    709
  • Year
    2021
  • Make
    Oliver
  • Model
    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Twin Bed Floor Plan
  • What model is your other RV or Travel Trailer?
    Ford E250 camper conversion van

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  1. Hull #709 - still plastic at least up to that point
  2. A key and sometimes informative step in checking on what's up when plugging in to shore OR generator power and you're not seeming to get any of that power through into the trailer is to check the EMS (surge protector) remote display pane. In my 2021 E2 it's in the attic cabinet (the cabinet above the rear window) but I know they've moved this remote panel at least once so yours may be in a different spot. At any rate, if all is going well, that panel will show you the voltage, current, and cycle rate (hertz) of the power that's coming in from the external source. If it has decided that there's something wrong with that power and it's blocking it from getting into the trailer (the function of the EMS, with the goal of protecting the electrical components in the trailer) it will show and error code, which can be deciphered with the table of error codes in the EMS unit's manual (which should be bound in with the other manuals in the "standard features" book that shipped with the trailer (and which can be found on the Oliver site under Owners:University If that panel is not showing anything while you're plugged in, it either means the EMS is toast or more likely that power isn't making it there - i.e. a tripped circuit, a bad outlet, a bad cord, or a bad connection between the power plug on the outside of the trailer and the EMS.
  3. Great ideas. I will use some of these! I do a subset of this using the OneNote app on my phone, and I'll often add more at home from the desktop OneNote app. Among other things, I've created a "notebook" (which has sections/folders w/in it) for making notes on good boondock sites we've used, seen, or read about, as well as details on which sites at established campgrounds we'd like to try to book or grab on return trips, etc and have shared this with a few friends who can also add to it. We've included a "general resources" section in which we have lists of useful apps for different tasks (including things like tide tables/charts app, a "photographer's ephemeris" etc which can be useful for planning our days). It's a nice way of creating a shared store of the type of knowledge we're all apt to forget.
  4. Another thought is to remove the inlet hose and inspect to see if it's filled with plastic shavings, which seems to happen on a fair number of Olivers. With sufficient blockage, it may be able to prevent the pump from drawing in water from the tank or boondock port.
  5. Are the connections on either end of the inlet hose that attaches to the pump tight? If either of those is drawing air, you could get those symptoms. Also check that the strainer bowl on the pump is screwed on tight (and that it isn't cracked) - this is the clear plastic "bowl" with a metal strainer on the inlet side of the pump. Any air getting in on the inlet side via these spots could prevent the pump from drawing water from either the boondock port or the fresh tank.
  6. here's what Oliver has posted on their YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvg2zHEXcqM There are some other YouTube videos posted by other folks on maintaining Dexter axle bearings on YouTube that go a little more slowly and go into more detail that you may find helpful (search on "dexter axle bearing repack" on YouTube), and I also found this video which helped me understand this step which other videos went through too quickly for me to catch the importance of the "drag it across your palm" step https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhL1uAp_WCw
  7. When I repacked my 2021 E2 bearings (hull #709), I found a heaping amount of grease still intact in the bearings/races and also a fair amount in the space between then, fwiw. Doesn't mean there wasn't a systemic issue that may have effected other units, but FTR I didn't see it on our trailer. As an aside this strikes me as a job that I'd be more than happy to pay a reasonsable fee to have someone else do for me in the future (not my idea of a fun day, and I don't think I'll ever get super efficient given how infrequently I'd ever be doing it), but I wanted to learn how this stuff all fits together and how to do this myself in case I find myself needing to replace bearings on the road (I didn't replace the cones/cups this time but I thin I'm pretty clear on how to deal with that part of the job and have the relevant tools along with spares for the travel kit).
  8. I've been to Goblin Valley - definitely cool (see a few pics below, along with a shot of Little Wildhorse Canyon and a few from the very cool pre-Peuebloan Horseshoe Canyon pictographs across the highway and about 30 miles down a heavily washboarded road with a few intriguing sand drifts coming across for chuckles) - after a little memory refresh, the spot I was thinking of is often called "Moonscape Overlook" - see https://www.revesdailleurs.com/moonscape_factory_butte_en.html which looks like a cool spot to spend an evening. So many places to see, so little time!
  9. Yes, I have that map and have noted that there are some routes I could do, as you say while not wet (I always carry enough water and food to hunker down for something like a week when out on roads that could shut me down if wet even if I see no rain in the forecast). Looks like it would be fun to be able to poke around a bit on the other roads though. I've been up I think it's called "Behind the Reef" road a little ways from near Hanksville (the photo below is from that afternoon/evening venture) - there's some cool stuff around there and I've just barely scratched the surface. I've seen some cool photos looking toward Factory Butte from some overlook on the SE ege. Etc etc
  10. Thanks. That's about what I'd hoped - that I could get my Ford E250 van to the parking and walk the rest. That's among the spots I'd like to check out next time I'm around there. Sounds like it would be cool to go deep into the Swell sometime but probably best with a truck or jeep/rover-like vehicle.
  11. Great photos from a cool zone. How was the road into the Black Dragon Canyon? Would a high clearance RWD van make it in there?
  12. No worries. Just wanted to point out that at least some owners needn't go to the step of adding a shunt to their system to get such info. But the notion of adding a shunt is a great piece of info for anyone who doesn't have this already built in.
  13. With the LifeBlue batteries that Oliver installed in our hull #709 (December 2020 delivery) the BMS in the batteries that reports out via a phone app provides info on both state of charge and the amperage being drawn (along with battery temperature and # of charging cycles the batteries have been through). I don't know if the Lithionics batteries they've been installing have a similar feature.
  14. Yes, for sure. Compounding, even with super fine "finishing" grit, takes some material off the surface. By design. Not a good way to solve the issue of stuff like mildew that might be creeping down into the micro pores in the gelcoat if you can get them off with some sort of cleaner. And as your first reply to this thread implied, even harsh cleaners will take some toll on the gelcoat so best to work up to that. All this said, having done the relatively small job of rehabbing a neglected fiberglass van top, there's no way I would take on any significant compounding task w/o the benefit of a power buffer (which btw does a GREAT job of buffing paste wax such as the Collinite Fleetwax 😄 ).
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