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Everything posted by Jim_Oker

  1. A key and sometimes informative step in checking on what's up when plugging in to shore OR generator power and you're not seeming to get any of that power through into the trailer is to check the EMS (surge protector) remote display pane. In my 2021 E2 it's in the attic cabinet (the cabinet above the rear window) but I know they've moved this remote panel at least once so yours may be in a different spot. At any rate, if all is going well, that panel will show you the voltage, current, and cycle rate (hertz) of the power that's coming in from the external source. If it has decided that there's something wrong with that power and it's blocking it from getting into the trailer (the function of the EMS, with the goal of protecting the electrical components in the trailer) it will show and error code, which can be deciphered with the table of error codes in the EMS unit's manual (which should be bound in with the other manuals in the "standard features" book that shipped with the trailer (and which can be found on the Oliver site under Owners:University If that panel is not showing anything while you're plugged in, it either means the EMS is toast or more likely that power isn't making it there - i.e. a tripped circuit, a bad outlet, a bad cord, or a bad connection between the power plug on the outside of the trailer and the EMS.
  2. Great ideas. I will use some of these! I do a subset of this using the OneNote app on my phone, and I'll often add more at home from the desktop OneNote app. Among other things, I've created a "notebook" (which has sections/folders w/in it) for making notes on good boondock sites we've used, seen, or read about, as well as details on which sites at established campgrounds we'd like to try to book or grab on return trips, etc and have shared this with a few friends who can also add to it. We've included a "general resources" section in which we have lists of useful apps for different tasks (including things like tide tables/charts app, a "photographer's ephemeris" etc which can be useful for planning our days). It's a nice way of creating a shared store of the type of knowledge we're all apt to forget.
  3. Another thought is to remove the inlet hose and inspect to see if it's filled with plastic shavings, which seems to happen on a fair number of Olivers. With sufficient blockage, it may be able to prevent the pump from drawing in water from the tank or boondock port.
  4. Are the connections on either end of the inlet hose that attaches to the pump tight? If either of those is drawing air, you could get those symptoms. Also check that the strainer bowl on the pump is screwed on tight (and that it isn't cracked) - this is the clear plastic "bowl" with a metal strainer on the inlet side of the pump. Any air getting in on the inlet side via these spots could prevent the pump from drawing water from either the boondock port or the fresh tank.
  5. here's what Oliver has posted on their YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvg2zHEXcqM There are some other YouTube videos posted by other folks on maintaining Dexter axle bearings on YouTube that go a little more slowly and go into more detail that you may find helpful (search on "dexter axle bearing repack" on YouTube), and I also found this video which helped me understand this step which other videos went through too quickly for me to catch the importance of the "drag it across your palm" step https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhL1uAp_WCw
  6. When I repacked my 2021 E2 bearings (hull #709), I found a heaping amount of grease still intact in the bearings/races and also a fair amount in the space between then, fwiw. Doesn't mean there wasn't a systemic issue that may have effected other units, but FTR I didn't see it on our trailer. As an aside this strikes me as a job that I'd be more than happy to pay a reasonsable fee to have someone else do for me in the future (not my idea of a fun day, and I don't think I'll ever get super efficient given how infrequently I'd ever be doing it), but I wanted to learn how this stuff all fits together and how to do this myself in case I find myself needing to replace bearings on the road (I didn't replace the cones/cups this time but I thin I'm pretty clear on how to deal with that part of the job and have the relevant tools along with spares for the travel kit).
  7. I've been to Goblin Valley - definitely cool (see a few pics below, along with a shot of Little Wildhorse Canyon and a few from the very cool pre-Peuebloan Horseshoe Canyon pictographs across the highway and about 30 miles down a heavily washboarded road with a few intriguing sand drifts coming across for chuckles) - after a little memory refresh, the spot I was thinking of is often called "Moonscape Overlook" - see https://www.revesdailleurs.com/moonscape_factory_butte_en.html which looks like a cool spot to spend an evening. So many places to see, so little time!
  8. Yes, I have that map and have noted that there are some routes I could do, as you say while not wet (I always carry enough water and food to hunker down for something like a week when out on roads that could shut me down if wet even if I see no rain in the forecast). Looks like it would be fun to be able to poke around a bit on the other roads though. I've been up I think it's called "Behind the Reef" road a little ways from near Hanksville (the photo below is from that afternoon/evening venture) - there's some cool stuff around there and I've just barely scratched the surface. I've seen some cool photos looking toward Factory Butte from some overlook on the SE ege. Etc etc
  9. Thanks. That's about what I'd hoped - that I could get my Ford E250 van to the parking and walk the rest. That's among the spots I'd like to check out next time I'm around there. Sounds like it would be cool to go deep into the Swell sometime but probably best with a truck or jeep/rover-like vehicle.
  10. Great photos from a cool zone. How was the road into the Black Dragon Canyon? Would a high clearance RWD van make it in there?
  11. No worries. Just wanted to point out that at least some owners needn't go to the step of adding a shunt to their system to get such info. But the notion of adding a shunt is a great piece of info for anyone who doesn't have this already built in.
  12. With the LifeBlue batteries that Oliver installed in our hull #709 (December 2020 delivery) the BMS in the batteries that reports out via a phone app provides info on both state of charge and the amperage being drawn (along with battery temperature and # of charging cycles the batteries have been through). I don't know if the Lithionics batteries they've been installing have a similar feature.
  13. Yes, for sure. Compounding, even with super fine "finishing" grit, takes some material off the surface. By design. Not a good way to solve the issue of stuff like mildew that might be creeping down into the micro pores in the gelcoat if you can get them off with some sort of cleaner. And as your first reply to this thread implied, even harsh cleaners will take some toll on the gelcoat so best to work up to that. All this said, having done the relatively small job of rehabbing a neglected fiberglass van top, there's no way I would take on any significant compounding task w/o the benefit of a power buffer (which btw does a GREAT job of buffing paste wax such as the Collinite Fleetwax 😄 ).
  14. Why do you say this? I've followed the advice given in Practical Sailor magazine to restore a chalky and dirty white fiberglass van top which included using a buffer - for amateurs like me they seemed to lean toward a dual action buffer like this one from Shurhold. They wrote that the more agressive rotary buffers like this one from DeWalt present a higher risk of amateurs burning the surface or leaving swirl marks though in the right hands they'll get the job done faster than what I bought and used. In any case, compound and buffing may not be the best plan of attack, at least not until more gentle cleaning type approaches such as outlined by SeaDawg are tried here, escalating from most gentle through stronger cleaners as needed. This is one of several good articles on the topic of maintaining fiberglass in Practical Sailor - it's a great resource which I learned of here from SeaDawg
  15. If you can see the point and can reach it with something like a small disposable paintbrush you can paint some of the dish soap plus water on the area and if there's a leak you'll almost certainly see bubbles appearing fairly quickly there, and they will keep appearing even if you brush them away so long as the area stays wet.
  16. BTW, for turn-by-turn type directions while away from cell reception, I have added the TomTom Go app to my phone, which allows easy downloading of regions or countries (much more useful for offline than the gmaps map download feature). You seem to be more focused on the feature set of handheld GPS units typically used for walking or if in vehicles maybe more like "overlanding" but for road routing, this so far seems to be a decent option.
  17. The Gaia app is the place to start, and add as needed if the layers and features you can get there aren't sufficient. The one problem I have with relying solely on Gaia when I'm hiking or backountry ski touring is that if my phone screen gets sufficiently wet, it can be tough if not impossible to interact with. Backup, whether compass/map (and maybe altimeter) or a dedicated GPS unit is wise. But fwiw the mountain ski guides I know (IFMGA, ACMG certified) tend to start with Gaia or whatever is the closest equivalent when they're in Europe or Canada but keep a Garmin GPSr unit charged and in the bottom of their packs, with waypoints entered when plans warrant. The interface on the phone is just better (when the touchscreen works and the battery has charge).
  18. This of course depends on latitude and time of year, and I suppose how long you and your wife leave the electric coffee maker plugged in. In a sunny site in June at the southernmost tip of the WA coast, we were back at 100% charge by noon each day with some daily microwave and furnace use as well as some use of the vent fans and of course lights (with the factory installed 340W of panels). We make out coffee with the stove but I'm guessing the outcome wouldn't have been dramatically different with a plug-in coffee maker. OTOH, one month earlier up along the coast in Olympic National Park, in a shady site during a mixed sun-and-cloud period in which we also used the furnace a bit more than we did one month later, we got a little back each day but would have been needing to use the generator if we'd stayed there for two weeks ish.
  19. Good point on portable panels. Do you have one of this type? If so, have you augmented its stand in any way? I imagine it would have to at least be staked out in wind, if not even also needing additional support.
  20. As you compare AGM to Lithium prices, consider how long you are likely to be using the trailer and if you believe "many years" is likely, then it's worth factoring in the comparative predicted lifespans of the two battery types. Lithium doesn't look quite as expensive once you do that, and if you boondock a lot especially with unreliable solar conditions then the Lithium also offers potentially significant additional benefits
  21. I've found my Garmin inReach to be super useful for written communications with home etc. when beyond cell signals. It's a good backstop and of course also offers SOS style communication to emergency agencies should something bad happen to me/us. It's of course more tedious than a phone call but when I pair the Garmin with my phone I find the text input to be acceptably convenient. I've found, when in places with sketchy or no reception such as big areas of southern UT or out along the more remote parts of the WA coast, that I can still get enough planning done in those moments when I DO have reception, though it does take a bit of thinking ahead. With a cell coverage app I can pretty well predict when I'll be entering a signal-free zone. I get that my strategy won't work for folks who have to work while on the road but I don't have to do that in general and I actually find it kind of liberating to get beyond the reach of most electronic tethers. While I mostly appreciate the march of technological progress (and I spent a career helping that march along...), I would be perfectly happy if it takes a long time for Starlink or anything similar to provide mobile internet everywhere you want to use it. In the meantime, I will use this thread as a reminder to get out and enjoy such places before the "digital nomads" arrive in droves. In the meantime, there are PLENTY of places where they can go and get their work-on-the-road done across our public lands.
  22. What little snow I saw around then was up along the highest roads, was brief, and was inconsequential, fwiw.
  23. I've been down around there a few times at around that time. I think Zion and Arches and Canyonlands and the GC will be fine. It's *possible* that you'll see snow going over the flanks of Boulder Mountain between Capitol Reef NP and the Boulder/Escalante area, but odds are you'll be fine there. Same deal up around Bryce. If that is what the forecast claims to be in store once you get there, you could scoot around a more southern route from the Moab area toward Zion and then GC, going via Tuba City/Page/etc. There are a decent amount of boondocking options along with some established campgrounds along that route if you decide it would be more prudent than your Plan A, but Plan A will likely go at least based on my two fall trips.
  24. We have it and it's been OK so far. I like the rear view camera we had installed on our camper van more - it gives a much better view at night and has better resolution, but the one that Oliver installs is adequate.
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