Ronbrink

The Anderson Environmental Boot is the only way I know to ensure a waterproof/dust-proof connection with the SB Series products. Although a product-specific mount is not offered, I was able to improvise a secure thru-mount at my TV bumper. 1of2 mating boots required. Custom hanger bracket bent and welded to my specific application. The slight protrusion, as mounted, is of no hindrance. A familiar pic showing bumper-mounted boot. A familiar pic showing mated boots.

Like many, I have been tempted to purchase from Amazon or eBay for such incentives as less money and free shipping, but it only takes one negative review that a product is a ‘knockoff’ to bring me back to reality! To answer your question, no I have never had or seen a failure as you described. For piece of mind, I buy direct from powerwerx.com to ensure authenticity.

@jd1923 The Renogy 400W portable solar panel will likely be my next want, but for now pending installation of the Atmos 4.4 is forefront; one mod at a time!

My 2020 OLEll line drips behind the rear driver side tire, the tip of the drain hose is visible from underneath. It is routed upward between the inner and outer hulls to the rooftop Dometic Penguin ll in my case. Although I have never had a need, a heavy monofilament fishing or string trimmer line could safely be used to probe for any obstruction. You may want to get a visual on the drain hose tip to verify location and if the condensate is dripping from it. If not then a more involved service is likely needed.

If using a water pressure regulator at the spigot, and you should, check the gauge and adjust the water flow to increase to a safe operating pressure. You may want to review the following post ‘Low water pressure in bathroom’ for remedies others have undertaken to resolve low pressure issues.

The one that leads to their next adventure!

If you have the grease fittings (Zerks) then you are equipped with Dexter’s E-Z Lube spindles on your axles, which are subject to routine maintenance and inspection of the hub bearings and seals. The hub components can be greased periodically based on usage via the Zerks; but at some point the hub bearings and seals will require inspection for wear, at which point the hubs are completely removed to service. The end of the spindle should have a grease cap to which a rubber lube plug is fitted, and will look like this:

@Steph and Dud B, you are CLEARED FOR TAKEOFF!

Indeed, used them for my DC-DC install three years ago at the TV rear bumper connection. Not only a great waterproof connection when underway in inclement weather, but dust proof, as well! All things Anderson: In similar manner, made an extension to utilize the rear bumper port to power my Dometic fridge/freezer staged under cap in the TV bed, as needed. Anderson conversion to either run my VIAIR from the rear bumper or TV battery. Anderson conversion with my portable power station (staged to run the aforementioned Dometic) to easily charge, as necessary, when the TV mounted solar array input is dismal. I simply run an extension cord from the front outlet at the propane housing to power the charger via the Oliver’s inverter.

A few other options for adding USB ports: Converts existing cigarette lighter ports to dual USBs. Converts existing AC duplex outlet to multipurpose outlet with USBs. I installed these under the dinette table and curbside bed. Power strip expands AC outlets and provides USBs. I used this at the nightstand before installing the following outlets. I installed two of these in the nightstand tabletop.

@jd1923 I just use some good ole’ elbow grease; cheap, effective, readily available and self-satisfying. There are risks however, and fully understand why many hire out the task.

I’m on the ‘Happy Camper’ train, never an odor issue! Add as recommended following each dump cycle to both holding tanks, as well as a drain valve lubricant a couple times a year.

I did a brief preliminary test while at the Cow Barn yesterday, a 15 minute run at TV idle. No drop in TV battery voltage while running its’ a/c full blast, and the 40A DC-DC charger and DPll (High setting) simultaneously. The run duration was limited due to the fact that the OTT was inside rather than outside the storage shed, whereby exhaust fumes would not have been an issue. The TV’s alternator gauge indicated a steady +14V output throughout the test, a vast improvement over the aging stock alternator. Looking forward to a planned trip next month to see how it performs, but very encouraged by the results of this test. TV at idle DPll current draw offset by DC-DC DPll turned off, DC-DC output (minus misc. OTT draw) DC-DC off, OTT misc. draw

I can only state ‘what I did’! Started off with a Renogy 20A DC-DC charger and the 50’ WndyNation 4 AWG wire set @rideadeuce mentions. The larger than necessary gauge wire was installed to accommodate any future upgrade in charger size, which eventually came into play. The charger was installed in the rear dinette seat hatch, mounted vertically on the interior wall, in like manner as the Xantrex, but on the opposite side just forward of the above battery box/pantry. This position allowed for the shortest cable run to the battery bank, being four 6V Trojan T-105s at the time, and this charger was the alternative of choice since my OTT did not have solar. However in short order, I ungraded to LFPs to be able to run the a/c via the inverter, and subsequently upgraded to a Renogy 40A DC-DC to further offset draw on the battery bank when running the a/c while underway or during brief stops with the TV at idle. This practice proved to be too stressful on the aging stock alternator and thus a high output alternator was installed. I convey all of this knowing that you are fully aware, but there may be some that read this and find it helpful information. I simply choose Renogy as a cost saving measure, half that of a Victron, and have been very pleased. A Victron SmartShunt was also installed at time of the lithium upgrade and the Renogy’s output can be monitored via the VictronConnect app.

@jd1923 I recently used AWG 6 ferrules when installing the Victron 30A charger in my Oliver, very handy tool and end terminals to have!

Not sure of the year model when OTT changed from 14/2 to 12/2 Romex, as installed in my 2020 OLEll.

Thanks, he therein further confirms my thought on the matter. My recently acquired 12,000 joules ‘sacrificial lamb’ with circuit analyzer for less than 50$ before tax.

Just checked in with the Sprinter-Forum, wherein an LTV owner expressed an advantage of the Atmos 4.4 over his former Penguin ll regarding condensation forming on the windows of his rig. Interesting observation and testament.

I would be inclined to keep any spare keys/Fobs hidden on the TV rather than the OTT. In doing so, one will always have the backup sets available, especially if lost when away from the trailer.

Did you ever determine a reason for the high humidity issue or a resolution?

I ordered mine in advance of need back in May, shipped within three days; guess I got lucky! Seems 4 State Trucks should express more concern regarding their Customer Service and be more upfront about supply related delays.

Will do.

UPDATE1: The installation of the Mechman high output alternator went well, now waiting to field test to confirm any improvement in the DC-DC charger output at idle and general TV battery performance. Perhaps @rideadeuce got his installed and can provide a report on his (hopefully favorable) results. Wire loom to protect the new 1/0 cables remains to be done. Battery chaos! UPDATE2: Wire loom and engine cover installed to complete this alternator upgrade project. As a side note: since my TV has a lower drive belt for the a/c compressor, a new one was first installed before the new shorter one specified for use with the smaller alternator pulley per the manufacturer’s recommendation.

Same, but around my hoist post using a high security Stanley lock.

Any or all of the measures you mentioned, but at minimum a hitch lock and securing the safety chains. Some owners also remove the stabilizer jack fuses, when deployed they serve as an anchor.