Ronbrink

I have no problem climbing the rungs of the scaffold; ditched the ladder because they are unstable, even when supposedly adequately secured! Transitioning from a ladder to scaffold seems a risky maneuver and more cumbersome, especially when changing positions. Definitely not getting any younger, just wiser in my old age! AND, the wife won’t let me climb ladders anymore, she has no concern with using the scaffold. Think ‘living in harmony’! TIP: Make use of a patio umbrella to shade work surfaces, also a fan staged on the scaffold platform to help ‘keep your cool’ while performing rigorous tasks!

Unfortunately, the newer 17” BSs I’ve seen have a rear grease trap. Bummer! TIP: I fold a couple of paper towels and place them in the grease tray, makes cleanup much easier.

I ordered a 580$ equipment stand from WebstaurantStore for the BP that was delivered with some dents. They sent me a replacement and told me to just keep the damaged one. I have since ordered another table and griddle utensils delivered without incident. Other than large family cooks, I oftentimes only utilize one zone for the two of us.

Most travel days we eat really well along the way, so cooking upon arrival is never the case, nor setting up camp unless early enough to unload a couple of chairs and a side table. A beer in hand is a given, as well as a late evening drive looking for wildlife! To your point, always ‘meal ready’ food usually in the form of smoked brisket, chicken and ribs vacuum seal from the home freezer!

I hear ya, easy to get spoiled with the good stuff! Although the 17” BS is a great choice for preparing quality camp food, I too am not impressed with their larger models for home use, which are not long lasting for such a costly investment. My 36” BAKERS PRIDE griddle has a 1” thick steel plate and weighs 465 lbs., it flanks my KOMODO KAMADO smoker out back under canopy.

I’ll cook under canopy with light rain and/or wind, but when unable we resort to something simple; we do not cook inside other than instant oatmeal and microwave preparations, and Keurig coffee of course!

My detector in mounted under the forward dinette seat hatch, but the 1A inline fuse holder is located under the forward street side bed hatch, as you mentioned. That said, I also recall seeing a similar fuse holder under the forward dinette seat hatch, which I need to further investigate.

The BS 17” griddle has served us well and can be used with the Oliver QC ports with a simple adapter. I have a 36” commercial grade flat top at home and there is nothing cooked on it that can’t be cooked on this smaller griddle when camping. Perfect for 2-3 person food preparations, compact, carry bag/griddle cover, easy to clean, fun to cook on, ‘nough said!

Working on a scaffold platform will be much safer than on a ladder, reaching from atop a ladder is an accident waiting to happen. You have made a wise decision!

I now understand your approach, you can definitely dial in a suitable working height with incremental adjustments. My platform is 58” and the back guardrail is 92” measured from the ground up. I’m 5’10” and can easily reach the entire ‘high rise’ section on the roof with buffer in hand, but cloth wipe-down is a bit of a stretch. Agree, down with the Dish!

You’re gonna be very pleased with the shelf, won’t have to bend over as far to reach supplies and worry about kicking things off the deck. I considered the outriggers, but working on my paver driveway has proved very stable thus far without them. However, in your situation where the scaffolds may be stacked for home maintenance, indeed a necessity. Regarding washing, I use a foam cannon in tandem with an electric water pressure sprayer and extendible brush. The pump motor only runs when actually spraying and I bought a FOB device to operate the pump from atop the scaffold. Good luck with the new equipment and be careful up there! At minimum, consider a rope or chain at top of scaffold, Chris may yell ‘dinner’s ready’ and you forget where you’re at!

That is an excellent savings, thanks for bringing this to everyone’s attention! Mine is the 1,100 lb. load capacity model with a solid deck, typically less expensive, but the ‘Special Buy’ on this 1250 lb. model is a real deal! The MetalTech guardrail system for fall safety is pricey, so I fabricated one using fence railing and gate components. I found this accessory very useful, as well!

Had a similar incident last trip on our way out of Houston, but a slow rolling tire was the ‘target’! Out of nowhere, said tire came rolling into my lane with little time to react and lane change not an option given the heavy traffic. Following some ‘flagrant language’, I immediately started to slow my speed to time for an impact at vehicle dead center. As I worked my way over to the first available exit, my thoughts were on potential damage to the Oliver, most likely to the fiberglass. Thankfully all was found good, but had the tire been on a rim this would have certainly been a dire situation.

I soon replaced the stock brake cable with the red coiled cable, like the one @rich.dev mentioned, after stepping over the trailer tonge when hitched and tripping myself; yep face forward fall, lesson learned. (It’s okay to laugh!)

The Barker jacks typically used by Oliver are rated at 3,000 lbs., specifically model VIP-3000.

There is a chance the wall-mounted remote button is not working, they can fail which happened with mine. If your remote is the BT model, there is a procedure to supposedly restore communication and use of the remote button. Mine is not BT and the fix is a replacement remote. I decided to use the button on the inverter to operate and just leave it on. Regardless of the remote model, the buttons will have the same operating positions as the inverter.

The only drying we do inside the Oliver is our bath towels, bath door closed and vent fan on. Same practice if we use the wet bath, but try to use park baths if found clean and well maintained.

My temporary fix is working well enough and may tweak a bit for a more permanent solution, since parts are not readily available.

Not only that, ethanol blends are hydrophilic and have an affinity to absorbing moisture, thus causing condensate water in a tank.

Yes, I took the ball chain off the stock black ones and screwed onto these Igloo caps. They won’t screw onto the Eleys, rather press on instead.

12,000# working capacity, 46,000# breaking capacity per Amazon’s description. Good enough for me!

Found a brand that uses a cotter pin to secure the connecting rod, any thoughts?

I have two dual fuel generators and generally only run them on propane. The exception would be during hurricane evacuations when our Oliver becomes an escape pod; it is more cost effective to run the Westinghouse 4500W on gasoline for continuous 24-hour durations for several days. Run time is 16 hours on a tank of gas with a/c on. I always carry two WAVIAN (NATO-style) jerrycans, one with ethanol gasoline for the TV and other with non-ethanol for the generator(s), as needed. I have made use of these fuel reserves on several occasions when the TV’s low fuel indicator light comes on; yep, that happens, drives my wife nuts! My SOP is to routinely rotate said fuels rather than stabilize with an additive. Regarding the jerrycans, I have never smelled any fumes, even when enclosed under cap in my former TV and currently inside our Savana van. To your point however, gasoline or any residue in a generator fuel system will reek, so another practice is to run the carb dry, drain the tank and throughly air it out, as necessary. Fuel transfer, especially into a vehicle, can be cumbersome and messy, but I resolved both issues with a portable rechargeable pump. Simply set the gas can on the ground, deploy the pump/hose, flip the switch, easy-peasy! Better yet, once done I let it air out before stowing away in a small Pelican Case to conceal any residual odor. I have my generators set up to either run directly from a dedicated propane tank or utilizing the Oliver’s QC ports. By dedicated, I mean either a spare propane tank carried in the TV or one of the trailer-mounted tanks, in which case the regulator hose would be disconnected. In this instance, remote regulators (primary and secondary) would be utilized. However, if connected to one of the Oliver LP ports, only the secondary regulator comes into play. I modified one of the generator supplied regulators with QC fittings between the two sections, thus enabling multiple usages. Use of secondary regulator only when running from the Oliver QC port. Use of both primary and secondary regulators when running from a dedicated propane tank. I installed GasStop automatic shut-off safety devices on all tanks, great for gauging, as well as priming! Note the propane hose draped over the tank housing at bottom pic. Aforementioned propane hose is tapped into the forward QC port for better access. I didn’t like having to get down on my knees to hookup. This is a 10’ hose extension. Extension hose stowed on top of tank and can be deployed via the screw port for added convenience. This hose also serves use of my fire pit.

Had the same experience, but soon realized the Truma AquaGo to be the culprit, as @Frank C explained. I have since been turning off the AquaGo, as @Steve Morris suggests and reasons given. However, because I only turn the unit on when needed and not concerned with maintaining constant hot water, I find ECO mode better suited to my needs. That said, my shower handle has a trickle feature, which keeps the burner engaged when taking a Navy shower.

Sorry, I do not. Would be good to capture that value at some point in time.