Ronbrink

Woke up thinking about this, so briefly researched and confirmed my recollection regarding the Xantrec Freedom XC 2000 in my unit. ‘All Xantrex Inverter/Chargers incorporate an automatic transfer switch. This switch senses when outside AC Power is present and transfers the load from the inverter to the source of incoming power (shore or generator). The unit also automatically switches from invert mode to charge mode.’ I suspect the ATS in the MP2 serves the same function and that an additional TS is required to run an A/C via the inverter.

I found a bundle of wires tucked away below the street side bed at the juncture of the upper wheel well and battery box against the outer shell. My thought at the time was these wires were part of the solar pre-wire setup.

It was my understanding that if the debit card balance wasn’t used within a certain time period, then a service charge would be assessed. I spent mine in short order to avoid that charge.

When converting my 2020 OLEll to lithium, I had to install a dedicated transfer switch to enable use of the A/C on battery. You may need to do the same; a few other owners on the forum have also discussed the need of an additional TS to accomplish this goal.

Thanks for pointing this out!

Born and raised in SA, first job as a teenager was a sacker at the Allena Village HEB. The biggest competitor at the time was Piggly Wiggly!

I see now where the holes can serve in securing the bikes with cables or even chain. Please post a pic of your setup with the rack and bikes mounted, thanks.

Most receivers I’ve seen are mounted on top, seems the bottom-mount (shown in the first pic) would impede opening of the rear compartment. The hitch and backing plate look very solid; the chain holes may prove useful, but a locking hitch pin will serve the same purpose. Nice mod!

I scanned this post, but didn’t see a stated axle size for your LEll; D35s or D52s?

How far down were you able to install the rigid ducting, within the vanity or further under the floor toward the galley?

Just sizing things up if there ever comes a time to beef up axles, springs and brakes. Thanks for your input, much appreciated!

Oliver is most likely installing the 6 on 5.5 hubs on both axle sizes, maybe to keep the wheels universal on all builds. I have the D35 axle with the 6-bolt pattern.

When doing a complete axle swap from 3500 to 5200, is the wheel bolt pattern the same for each axle or do the wheels have to be changed, as well?

To @Jason Foster’s point, simply remove the faucet/shower head from the pullout hose at the sink and check the flow at the unobstructed hose end. This may help to determine if a clogged head is the problem.

Prior to upgrading to LFPs and installing a dedicated transfer switch to enable operation of the A/C via the new battery bank, the DuroMax was primarily used for A/C (with Micro-Air Easy Start) during lunch/rest stops and off-grid overnight stays when traveling. Now it is mostly used for A/C, as needed; fueled by a dedicated 30# propane tank carried under cap in the TV. However, as with most small generators the A/C is temporarily turned off to use the microwave, otherwise it is a sufficient power source for all else, including charging the batteries. To date I have not changed the Xantrex’s setting 28 to lower charging amps as many suggest, but may give it a try to see if there is any difference.

Looks exactly like my Westinghouse 4500i, other than the dual-fuel feature on my model. Long run time and enough to power the Oliver 24/7 during hurricane evacuations or any other necessary stays of duration. I also carry a smaller DF for overnighting with A/C.

Good advice! I was able to pan in on a pic to confirm my BD. Also noticed your 5K is Hitch Class 3 (lll), whereas the 7K is Class 4 (lV).

To @jd1923’s point, my 2020 OLEll has the 3500 LB axles with the described square pattern 4 bolt axle connection. D35 axle label confirmation.

As @SeaDawg mentioned earlier, an interior fan can be installed, as well. I have the Norcold 3 way, which does not have a refrigerator light to access power for this fan; thus the wire will need to connect to a constant power source behind the fridge. Thanks to @MAX Burner for pointing that out. Hopefully there will be a convenient routing path without having to drill a hole to gain access for power. Mounting this fan is easy, alligator clips to the evaporator fins. My combo:

I tend to agree, the key word is ‘classic’! This is my ‘82 CJ-8 Scrambler, less than 70,000 made in the 1980-1985 model years.

From my many years of HAZMAT training and environmental responses, always be mindful that one can quickly become desensitized to smells, even the mercaptan odorant in propane! I often got a whiff or two, but then nothing further and moved on. I now get the sniffer to further investigate for piece of mind if nothing else. Thanks for clarifying your previous statement and advise to others less experienced!

Any concerns of moisture being drawn from the wet bath through said bath return vent into the underbelly? I know when running the ceiling exhaust fan while showering that the wet bath has negative pressure and air is subsequently drawn in through the warm air duct whether the furnace is running or not. Post shower, if the fan is turned off before the wet bath throughly dries it seems any excess moisture could pose an issue, especially if the furnace is on. Personally, I squeegee the bath interior as best possible and keep the door closed with the fan running until completely dry to lessen the chance of raising the humidity level in the cabin proper.

Last summer I traveled to West Texas on my first ‘solo’ Oliver adventure, Davis Mountains SP to be exact. I purchased an inReach to carry with to lessen my wife’s concern of my personal safety in the event of an accident or other event, and ability to communicate due to weak cell service. The plan I choose can be suspended to lessen the cost; the SAR insurance was purchased, as well. Prior to our next adventure, I will purchase the insurance coverage for my wife. Here’s a couple pics of me hiking on and off the trail in 110° heat, note the inReach on my right hip.

Enter the sniffer, a recent Amazon purchase routinely put to good use to eliminate any fear of a minor leak! If ever a tank is opened for use, a quick check is performed. Furthermore, I keep the MB Sturgis protective plugs and caps on all of my fittings and hose ends, even on hoses that are rolled and stowed with mating ends connected. Oftentimes when deployed they are laid out on the ground and the protectors ensure a clean/debris-free connection.

I purchased a Dometic LPGC10 model in 2020 and it is fairly accurate to date. It can be a bit finicky at times, mostly due to the device not being held perpendicular to the tank, as required. That may seem like a simple task, but when reaching in and looking downward, there is a degree of difficulty involved. A green light indicates gas, but sometimes defining the tank level is difficult in that the indicator light will toggle red/green; however further adjustment(s) will ultimately determine the tank level. In a brief look at the current Amazon ratings between the two devices, the Truma may prove better; perhaps a user of that device will chime in. I like having such a device, and if/when my Dometic fails, I will research the Truma.