Ronbrink

Here’s a screenshot of the Victron app showing 43.29A with the engine held slightly above idle, with some fluctuation to 40A. At idle the value settled down into a range of 33-36A. The next screenshot was taken 14 minutes later with a 1% increase in charge.

I recently replaced my Renogy 20A DC-DC charger with a Renogy 40A model to accommodate a new 460Ah LFP house battery bank upgrade. With the original install, the recommended 4AWG cable, specified for use of a 40A charger, was used in anticipation of this charger upgrade when a switch to lithiums occurred.

Actually, this quote “we decided to go with the Victron 12/24 350 amp” was that of MAX Burner. I too questioned this, he replied it referenced the charger model. This was obviously a typo and edited to 12/12 350 amp, but his pic shows the charger as a 12/12-30. This should ease any concerns of a “PeterBuilt” signature OTT out there! As for the “tag line”, I need to figure out how to add that, but for now: 2012 Chevy 1500 Silverado 4x4; 2020 OLEll, 579, Twin.

All or part of the issue I experienced may have also been due to the quality, or lack thereof, of the breaker initially installed. To that point, I had another breaker tripping at the DC-DC after switching from a 20A to 40A charger. Upon research, I learned that this was a common occurrence with use of ‘cheap Chinese’ breakers and the remedy was installation of a ‘quality Blue Sea’ breaker, which resolved that problem. I should mention that with the 20A charger install, I took cable size into account to adequately accommodate any future upgrade in house battery amp hours and thus, a step-up in charger output.

Right, the extreme summer heat here in Texas this summer was a bit too much! Just know the fuse option is a good fix.

I originally had a breaker at the battery on the cable leading the rear bumper Anderson, but excessive engine heat oftentimes would cause it to overheat and trip. Resorted to an ANL fuse, problem solved.

What is this referencing?

Join the club!

Real bummer!

Very impressive setup, I like your install criteria! I recently upgraded from four 6V Trojans to two LFPs and a Smart Shunt, but really like the cutoff switch you installed. Yet another project on the horizon!

The run time using propane to fuel a generator depends on the genset size with regards to wattage output. As I understand it, the new Truma a/c requires at least 3000W, whereas the former Dometic Penguin only 2000W. If you want to operate other loads simultaneously, one must plan accordingly in their genset selection. As a fuel consumption reference, my 2200W dual-fuel genny will provide a/c for approximately 16 hours on a single 30# propane tank; my unit is a Dometic Penguin 11,000 btu with EasyStart. That’s roughly two nights of a/c when overnighting boondock-style while traveling to a camp destination with full hookups. The equivalent run time on a 20# tank would be ~1/3 less. I did not opt for solar in my 2020 Ell; thus the generator was considered a ‘must have’’ at the time. To save money on the initial purchase, I did not opt for the 30# propane tank upgrade. My thought was to purchase the larger tanks aftermarket and use the stock 20# tanks for other purposes. The Oliver tanks were US made Manchesters and bought same brand at both Tractor Supply and Ace Hardware; three to be exact, two for the Oliver and one to carry undercap in reserve. All said, ended up with five tanks for about the price of the 30# upgrade offered by Oliver. By the way, Tractor Supply is my go-to propane supplier. As some have expressed the 30# tanks are heavier and thus, difficult to lift over the front housing. Personally, I made the chore easy by installing a hoist to wrangle them, as well as my dual-zone cooler, e-bikes and gensets. As for running the a/c on house batteries, generally not recommended with any other than lithiums. I recently ditched my four 6v Trojans for LFPs and added a transfer switch just so I could operate the a/c on battery. In doing so, nearly 150 lbs of weight loss and double the amp hours; anticipated run time 2-3 hours with safe margin. Now I don’t have to use the genny at the storage facility for a/c when needed; or more importantly during brief travel stops for meals, rest or other occasions. When back underway, a 40A DC-DC charger was installed in the Oliver for battery rebound. Regardless of my current setup, the generators are coming with! As previously mentioned, solar was another option I decided against, mainly due to the added cost and awkward appearance. I am however, making my Oliver ‘solar capable’ by adding a solar port fore and aft for eventual use of portables, but to begin with a 200W array atop my TV cap will suffice.

Even if I had solar, I keep my ‘COW’ in a fully enclosed storage facility which would nuke that option to keep the house batteries topped off. Been thinking the solution is to install a separate dedicated battery charger, set the ‘Inverter Ignition Control’ to AUTO as you stated, and thus, not rely on the Xantrex charge function.

Thanks for the detailed response! I did not opt for solar, but did get the Xantrex Freedom X 2000 being offered at the time, as well as four 6v Trojans. With the recent upgrade to lithiums, I’ve been dialing in the Xantrex settings to best suit them, and installed a Victron shunt for better monitoring. There is a charge cycle when first on shore power, but the batteries will continue to discharge until manually instigating the charge cycling again. From what I understand, that is ‘normal’ for Xantrex.

What are you using to charge to 14.4v, my inverter/charger won’t completely top-off my LFPs. 2020 OLEll, 579

To topgun2’s point, I make use of a digital water flow meter connected directly to the dump station’s water spigot, next a hose valve to control flow, then a dedicated 25’ Zero-G hose with a quick disconnect to the black tank rinse-out port inlet. This assembly is rolled up and stowed within the rear bumper compartment when not in use. Prior to dumping the black tank, I setup this rinse hose assembly; the dump station hose is removed from the spigot regardless of condition. Once the black tank is initially dumped, the black tank valve is closed. I then zero out the meter, open the hose valve, then measure 10-12 gallons before dumping the rinse water; the hose valve remains open during this rinse dump process. When complete, the black tank dump valve is again closed, the meter is zeroed out and water allowed to fill to the measured amount. This rinse cycle is repeated up to three times. The use of the meter does not require having to go in and out of the OTT to monitor the tank level, which is not accurate, especially with the tongue raised to better hasten the dump.

Here’s a pic with the sewer hose attached. When I stated “just enough room”, the rear bumper when closed does not press against the hose when attached. It could probably be compressed into a smaller space with a tighter install, but that’s not ideal. Personally, having the hose connected when not is use has no benefit, in fact there may even be undue stress at that bend in doing so. I showed in another comment the end cap used, maybe you should consider doing the same if the WM appeals to you. I can see where the male CAM lock to bayonet adapter could work in your desired application.

Typical installation requires altering the OTT’s discharge pipe by shearing off the bayonet retention posts and gluing on a supplied female CAM lock fitting to connect the WM, which is what I did. However, bayonet fitting converters are available and perhaps can alternatively be used to maintain subsequent use of any bayonet-type applications. In my instance, there is just enough room to keep the sewer hose connected, but is generally disconnected and capped, as explained in another comment. As measured, that distance is 4.5” from the closest point of the female CAM lock fitting to the inside rear bumper surface. That distance, at minimum, would be your target with use of said converter in an install.

Agree, there are simply times when a garden hose would suffice for dumping gray water. So, I often utilize an alternative to the traditional sewer hose when wanting to rid excessive gray water when the black tank still has usable capacity, thus avoid having to break camp prematurely. There are also times when traveling following a CG dump that the head may be decommissioned, but there is gray water accumulation. In these instances, this Waste Master accessory enables use of a garden hose, as needed. However, in my setup there is a six foot section of 5/8” ID clear silicone tubing fitted with a PVC ball valve at its’ terminus. I keep this attached, as it also serves to visibly inspect for potential leaks/seepage from the closed OTT dump valves, and is readied for any gray water dumping; the length is enough to reach most dump receptacles, as well.

My thought in buying the Waste Master was that if it lasts 2X longer than the leading competitor at twice the price then nothing lost, right? My Amazon purchase three years ago was $133, double the cost of the former Rhino Extreme setup. Now get this, I listed the Oliver Camco (still in the box) and the Rhino Extreme (used one year) on Marketplace, and sold for $17 and $80, respectively. I should mention the Rhino also went with an orange garden hose (for black tank/sewer hose rinse) and a Valterra Twist-On waste valve. That said, in actuality my upgrade was not that expensive. No regrets, the upgrade resolved a year’s worth of frustration trying to stuff the ‘uncooperative’ Rhino into its’ cage and other cumbersome antics, and having a single connection with the very secure CAM lock is unsurpassed satisfaction. Another worthy note, there is less anxiety at the dump station that ‘all will go well’ as either dump valve is opened; think sewer hose staying in place and/or hose end jumping out of position at the sewer receptacle, thus resulting in a much dreaded unintentional release, yuk! I can now open the ‘primary’ dump valve at the OTT, then hold in place the sewer hose terminus as the ‘secondary’ valve is opened. WOW, I never imagined this task being fun as opposed to just a chore, but I’ve digressed! NOW. when curious drive-bys slowly pass while dumping, I’m never certain if they’re checking out the Oliver or the Waste Master!

Yep, in good keeping; Oliver owners ‘spare no expense’!

I transitioned from Rhino Extreme with twist-on lug fittings to Waste Master with CAM lock fittings. I didn’t like the way the Rhino would ‘snake’ and expand in length when dumping, and carrying two 10’ sections, just in case extra length was needed, was a tight fit in the rear compartment. The WM 20’ hose is more robust and smoother inside for better flow and ease of cleaning, compresses to ~5’, holds the desired extended length when setup; and has a clear view port, 90° discharge with a handle, control valve and rubber doughnut at its’ terminus.

Thanks, I really appreciate the offer. Actually I bought hole plugs, just haven’t installed them yet; I tend to save the easier things for last! Again thanks!

Well, I tend to over-think and over-engineer everything, drives my wife nuts! Not that “serious”, but if I told someone my motto was “I strive for perfection to achieve satisfaction”, maybe they would understand! As for testing, I can only do so much in the driveway; need to travel and camp to see how all performs, or is that just an excuse to pack up and get away? This would be a ‘one trip wonder’ to see if I’m ‘there yet’. More to come, hopefully sooner than later.

Kinda, removed the original Lagun plate that Oliver installed on the nightstand, and used it with a dynamic system I designed and built. I field tested an initial prototype with much success a few months ago. However, further iterations needed to address some inherent design flaws have taken the months since. I am now ready to perform a stress test on the system, followed by more field tests for functionally and safe usage. The only other information willing to share at this time is that the nightstand drawer is no longer obstructed.

I too have the BedRug with bottom, sides and tailgate coverage in my 2012 short bed TV, as well as an A.R.E. cap lined with the same carpet material. As some mentioned, easy on the knees, as well as an insulating factor and sound reduction. 11 years and counting with little signs of wear or staining. I have furniture carpet slides on the bottom of a large frig/freezer that work great in handling it. Although a cap will add significant weight, it provides protection and security, as well as added space, especially for bikes and even a loft. I also installed a 200W solar array atop the cap.