Ronbrink

This is a view of my panel. However, I had enough room in it for two additional 20A breakers (seen unlabeled at the bottom of the row), which are pre-wired and ready for use by way of a single individual 20A outlet for each; think future electrical expansion projects! The two plugs to the right are connected to the inverter, the left two are the single 20A outlets in waiting. I needed an extra plug from the inverter for a transfer switch I installed to enable operation of the A/C on the house batteries.

Although all of my 2020 OLEll outlets are wired with 12 gauge wire and 20A breakers, I would still be hesitant to use the Oliver’s exterior outlet for that particular Ninja. I think best to just utilize one of the remaining outlets at the shore power post, separate from the one supplying power to your RV. Either a 30A and/or 50A male to 20A female dogbone cord adaptor would suffice, plus an appropriately sized extension cord (10 gauge) would be my recommendation. As you know, some CGs provide only 30A in loops for smaller trailers, whereas others will have both a 30A and 50A, or only 50A for loops servicing larger rigs. Even in the case when only a single RV service (30/50) is provided, there is usually a 110 outlet/breaker available, as well, that may or may not be sufficient to meet your stated needs. Personally, I’m more concerned about being able to hookup the 30A RV service cord to household current, as thus carry a locking 30A female to 20A female reducer, in addition to a 50A to 30A reducer, a 20A male to 30A female dogbone cord adaptor, and a variety of extension cords.

I agree, used two 4 AWG cables from under hood to the rear bumper-mounted Anderson plug with my initial 20A DC-DC install; that cable was found to be of sufficient size when upgrading to a 40A DC-DC. That said, I did have to change a previously installed surface-mounted circuit breaker from 45 to 60 amps to handle the additional load. I should mention that a dedicated, continuous-duty, SPST Series solenoid was also initially installed, as well, to prevent the TV battery from draining when the alternator isn’t running.

I didn’t bother with the 712 monitor either, the SmartShunt with BT and the VictronConnect app will suffice; battery bay install, as well, and a Blue Sea ANL block with a 250A fuse on the positive lead. Evolve onward!

In my situation, it’s simply a matter of ‘OllieEvolution’! Many initial cost saving measures had to be taken to be able to reasonably acquire our factory ordered ‘579’, thus sacrificing many of the add-on options offered at the time, to include battery and solar upgrades. So early in our acquisition, the ‘standard issue’ 12V Bright Way battery bank made part for four gently used 6V Trojan T-105s gifted by our Son who was upgrading his motorhome to LFPs at the time. Although these batteries served us well for a couple years, the thought of lighter weight/higher Ah usage LFPs was foremost in hopes of operating the A/C on battery, with limitations, and lean toward alternative charge/monitoring capabilities; 460Ah LFP battery bank, Smart Shunt, 20A transfer switch, 40A DC-DC, TV 200W solar panel array, pending solar port installs fore and aft, eventual portable solar panels….evolutionary indeed!

Actually, GJ deserves all credit due for starting this!

If that is the case, a swap/upgrade to a 3000W inverter may be easier and less expensive than first thought. Current Xantrex Freedom XC 2000 Input cables are 2/0 If the hard reset (reboot) currently being conducted doesn’t resolve the charge cycle issues with this inverter, then said swap/upgrade is inevitable. Again, thanks for the info, much appreciated!

So the 2/0 ‘stock’ cables were changed to what size, 4/0? I’m only thinking ahead, so a response when you find time is okay. Again thanks.

What size cable did Oliver install leading to your Xantrex, was it sufficient enough to accommodate the Victron or was it necessary to increase the cable size for the swap? My Xantrex Freedom XC 2000 has 2/0 cable and thinking it would have to be upsized for a similar install. Your pics show you installed the newer MultiPlus ll model, good move; and thanks for the update!

Sorry, my mistake. I will redirect.

I carry a light weight 1.5T aluminum floor jack for use with both my TV and OTT; trim design, and easily stowed under the rear seat with other tools, spare parts and supplies. When lifting the Oliver at the designated jack points, this low profile floor jack is placed on top of an Anderson Rapid Jack to enable adequate reach; however not necessary for axle lifts. These style jacks have a long reaching, two-piece handle; useful for positioning, as well as leveraging. Although a Harbor Freight brand, it has served me well on many occasions; goes on sale often.

What size cable did Oliver install leading to your Xantrex 3000, was it sufficient enough to accommodate the Victron or was it necessary to increase the cable size for the swap? My Xantrex Freedom XC 2000 has 2/0 cable and thinking it would have to be upsized for a similar install. Your pics show you installed the newer MultiPlus ll model, good move; and thanks for the update!

I think we’re all sailing in muddy waters!

My bad, disregard!

I have recently seen pics of a side-mounted Victron. If your’s is in fact different then I would still like a pic, at your convenience, Thanks.

This leads me to believe your Victron is side-mounted in a vertical position rather than horizontal (bottom down). Apparently the unit will operate in this orientation, as others have successfully mounted likewise. The only precautions I know of is to ensure adequate clearance around the unit for proper ventilation, and that fans can be used if heat becomes an issue in small spaces.

I’m trying to visualize what that would look like, a picture would be much appreciated if able to provide.

Curious as to the orientation of your Victron mount, the recommended vertical/horizontal or a side-mount that is not recommended? I took some measurements yesterday and don’t see how any other than a side-mount would fit where the Xantrex is currently positioned. I’m considering an upgrade to a 3000W unit, either a Victron or Renogy, but both void the warranty if side-mounted.

Because this is oftentimes the venue for much comtemplation!

I solved our e-bike dilemma with a folding model and carry bag, easily transported in the TV under cap and staged on a front-mounted bike rack, as needed, when at camp. Bagged e-bikes shown behind the DuroMax generator. Front-mounted bike rack in use. Secure storage. Additional security and protection at night and/or inclement weather. Staged for day use. Easy transport to trails at distance from camp. Bike rack in travel mode.

My call to Xantrex confirmed that my Freedom XC 2000 is not operating correctly! Although the charger is working, as previously described when initially powered, it fails to subsequently maintain a float charge. Xantrex did confirm that my unit settings were all correct and suggested a slight adjustment to the LBCO Recovery Voltage (Setting # 04) may be needed to further the maintenance charging cycles, but to no avail. At this point I plan to install a master cutoff switch, as many have suggested, to prevent drawdown of the LFPs while in storage and on shore power. Ultimately however, I intend to upgrade to a 3000W inverter/charger.

I’ll break the ‘news’ to her miles down the road when there’s no turning back!

What was the reason for the inverter/charger swap, the Xantrex not working properly, more power (2000 vs 3000W) or better quality unit? I’m currently at issue (charging function) with my Xantrex Freedom XC 2000 and looking to replace/upgrade to a 3000 to better serve recently installed LFPs. Also interested to know if you experienced any ventilation issues regarding heat in the summer months or if you addressed that concern prior to any potential problems.

Nice install!