Ronbrink

It is my understanding that the ‘fuel level’ type gauges, not GasStop with a ‘pressure’ indicator gauge, was a culprit; faulty regulators can restrict flow, as well as the tank’s excess flow valve (EFV) and overfill protection device (OPD) valve if opened too fast.

I have the EGO string trimmer, blower and lawnmower; will never go back to gas lawn equipment again! I find each to be of high quality, powerful and very durable.

I’d take a snow day over an extreme heat/high humidity day anytime. That said and given the issue of “payback”, maybe I should go ahead and invest in a snowblower?

Some interesting trivia: Last year not a single freeze temp here in Houston, and Texas had the hottest summer on record!

So that’s what a snowblower looks like! (Native Texan)

Bingo! With early detection of a fire the Element will likely suffice, but if a fire is more involved then another type of extinguisher would be required. I like the fact that the Element will not necessitate a HazMat cleanup following its’ use. I have firsthand knowledge of an incident wherein a fire extinguisher somehow accidentally discharged inside a vehicle and it had to salvaged due to the high expense of a cleanup.

If it’s just leaves and/or twigs, the underside of the awning can be bumped from top to bottom to bounce them downslope and off. However, in regards to the other stuff, i.e. sap, pollen, insect/bird droppings, etc., that is my concern and reason why I try to avoid camping under trees. I use Google Earth in selecting available campsites to help evaluate the tree situation, among other things, but if tree cover cannot be avoided then I make it a practice to not deploy the awning. That said, I occasionally deploy the awning when washing the Oliver to cleanse it of dust and dirt that may have accumulated.

It should be good once the ‘memory’ from being rolled up is lost as it warms up and flattens when completely relaxed. Could hasten the process by running the heater, but gonna let it sit a couple weeks first. I carried the dinette table out to the trailer and it stayed in place, even when mounting the table.

Yep, those scratches and swirl marks happen. I plan to buff the fiber granite to restore them, a winter project for sure. This is what I bought. I have more surface area than most Olivers, so do your own measurements. The 2mm size is only available in larger sections, otherwise 1.5mm. Amazon purchase.

Just completed installation of table and counter top treatments. The material is a clear, 2mm thick, PVC protective cover generally used on home and office furniture; custom cut for all of the ‘flat surfaces’ in our Oliver. Now you see it, ….. now you don’t! Added protection for the pantry counter and Lagun tables that get a lot of use, as well. ‘The mess’, my wife’s words not mine! Sometimes you just gotta let a man do what he’s gonna do! Cutting corners. Best not to drink the margarita before doing this! The microwave counter and nightstand are also completed, but I need to purchase more material for the stove top/sink counter space. Say goodbye to the placemats and drink coasters!

No doubt, not effective on a fully engulfed fire. It is imperative one understands the limitations of these and proper use. Unlike conventional extinguishers, Element is meant to remove one leg of the fire triangle, oxygen, and not meant to be aimed at the ‘source’, as demonstrated in the featured videos.

I just opened a tank valve for the first time since installing GasStop devices. To my surprise, the ‘prime’ feature worked great; 5 pumps to purge, then straight to the stove burner and it lit immediately. Yahoo, liking this!

Being that Olivers are ‘four season’ RVs, guess the thought was that tank heaters weren’t really necessary! However, some owners ‘beg to differ’ and addressed their concerns to enhance heat in the hatch areas by various means; more-so to protect waterlines, but the tanks would benefit, as well. The most innovative approach I’ve seen was modification of the existing ducting, whereby holes and/or duct diversions are strategically placed to direct furnace heat, as necessary, to more vulnerable areas. Here are a few pics ‘borrowed’ from a forum post, full credit to that individual. Do a forum ‘Search’ on the matter.

I’ve heard tank sounds, as well, more of a ‘high-pitched whistling’ rather than ‘ringing’; probably a difference in interpretation. Mostly detected when a tank is low and drop in ambient temperature; thinking maybe coming from the tanks safety cutoff valve. Briefly switching the pressure regulator to the other tank and then back again after a short period usually resolves the issue. Not a concern unless there is a propane smell, that very distinctive mercaptan odorant that has a sulfur-like smell.

I recently installed GasStop devices on each of my propane tanks. It is designed to perform a ‘minor gas leak test’ by following a simple procedure; very useful feature when a gas smell is detected to determine if you have an actual leak in the lines or supplied systems (appliances). With this feature, one can troubleshoot and perhaps save time, money and more importantly their camping adventure, by not having to shut down and have the system otherwise checked out. However, if an appliance is suspect and a problem not obvious, precautions should be taken and any service performed by trained professionals. As some have stated, the gauge on the pressure regulator is not a gas level indicator, whereas the GasStop does indicate tank ‘pressure’ and useful in knowing when a tank is near empty. The GasStop also has a ‘purge’ feature to prime the system prior to use.

I too prefer grilling steaks, reverse sear to be exact. However, when traveling I can cook a greater variety of foods, many simultaneously, on the BS; again personal preference. Enjoying this ribeye cooked to perfection at our Oliver dinette, along with sautéed mushrooms, roasted jalapeños and baked potatoes, all on the BS! With steaks in particular, a griddle can produce a better sear with regards to Maillard reaction, which further enhances flavor. I agree with your take on breakfast, most anything ‘breakfast’ can be made on a griddle, except for maybe waffles; we’d have to meet up with Patriot at Waffle House for that!

jd1923 cited some reading material in an earlier post: Should Inverter Be On When Plugged Into Shore Power? Ultimate Answer (rvgoer.com). In reading, I was directed to other articles by this author and came upon the following:

In theory, if you turn off the main manual reset breaker powering the inverter/charger and similar breaker powering the DC buss, you will be killing all battery power. Mystery solved! By manually tripping the 200A breaker shown in the upper right-hand corner and the 60A breaker in the lower left-hand corner of the below pic, the battery bank is totally isolated; thus no 12V power draw from the batteries by the Oliver, as evidenced by the above VictronConnect screenshot.

Of course, first thought was a play on words. Yes two tables, but this is my usual two table setup. I need room to work my magic!

I don’t know about that, but my Oliver has a ‘reverse polarity fuse’ under the street side bed next to the 60A breaker for the DC buss bar. I purposely have the breaker tripped in this pic, the red rubber boot next to the breaker is said fuse.

If referring to my phrase ‘table for two’, one table for two people, but added the ‘or three’ more to emphasize the 17” can cook enough food to feed more than just two. Did I just go down the rabbit hole?

That is an excellent price! I only had to carry a Weber Q a few trips to learn how hard they were to clean and stow. I have the 17” BS and it has served us well; the 22”, especially with the cover and carry bag, is also travel worthy, just a bit heavier and bulkier than mine. That said, I have a 36” commercial grade SOB for home use, and the 17” is just as capable in preparing a ‘table for two’ (or three) meal when traveling. I usually stow mine either flat or upright on the backseat within easy reach, thus allowing room in the truck bed for our folding ebikes. Mine did not come with a metal lid, rather a slip cover made with to same material as the travel case. Next is a bonus tip: the base can be used to stow most, if not all, of your cooking utensils, seasonings, oils, drip pan, paper towels, foil, etc., even the hose, regulator and 1lb propane tank, if wanted. A real space saver and convenience. Breakfast is my favorite meal to prepare, with smash burgers, steaks, fajitas a close second, followed by chili dogs and grilled sandwiches. I’ll admit, camp food is the best regardless of how it’s cooked!

In response to HDRider’s offer to ask questions, I have a ‘mystery’ that may be somewhat tasking! It is my understanding that there are many components in a TT that only operate on DC, specifically 12V power from the house battery(ies). These components include, but not limited to, the water pump, exterior and interior lights, radio, vents and blade fuse panel, to mention a few. It is also my understanding that if the 12V power is disconnected by some means, then said components will no longer operate. Are my understandings correct? Yesterday, while plugged into shore power, I manually tripped the factory installed 200A blade circuit breaker on the positive cable leading from the battery bank, thus turning off power feed to the Xantrex/OTT. Here is a screenshot afterwards showing a -0.25A draw from the battery bank via the VictronConnect app; likely a minimal draw by the Victron SmartShunt, since it alone remains connected directly to that power source. I then made certain that the button on the Xantrex remote panel was in the Off position, as well as the button on the unit itself. Here is a pic of the Xantrex remote panel showing that unit in ‘BYPASS’ mode. I observed what sounded like the fan on the Xantrex, continually cycling on and off at varying intervals of a few seconds to minutes in duration. Also when tested, the lights, MaxxFan and radio were operable, and the blade fuse panel was powered. How can that be if the battery bank is presumed to be isolated? Furthermore, the VictronConnect app was showing the added draw by said components. What is wrong with this picture? My only assumption is that the Xantrex (even though totally off, bypassed and disconnected from battery) in someway is the 12V power source, OR the battery bank is not fully isolated by way of simply manually tripping said circuit breaker. Any thoughts (good, bad, comedic) are respectfully, appreciated.

Likely not, unless it has been replaced and you have the optional BT remote panel. My 2020 OLEll is equipped with a Xantrex XC 2000, which is not BT.

Thanks, used a 10% off discount code, no tax, free shipping on my purchase of two E50s from the referenced website!