ScottyGS

That is a shame. Our preferred method of keeping cool is to use the maxxfan set on out and open the windows. We always kept the rear window closed and never thought about it. But since installing the fan.... I am a big FAN of using the rear window to pull in fresh air... especially since it opens on my side. Of course the more windows open the lower the airflow through any one of them... Let the window negotiations begin!

John, On our trailer (2016 model - hull 145) there was a cigarette lighter receptacle on the left wall in the attic. Had to remove the wall to do the installation and I just tapped into the back of that plug. Very easy and you can test it by holding the wires on before you install. Good Luck

OK... so sorry to be late the to the party and sorry for the ICE truck joke... (it would be cool in the summertime though) BUT.... The idea of using the BW continuum hitch is intriguing. The Bulldog hitch is about 16 inches long and there is another 10 inches of tongue after that. Appears there would be more than enough room to mount the actual hitch. Now the pump handle thingamajig is another matter. I don't think it's possible that future iterations of the hitch would allow that part to be smaller, but some enterprising individual might find some work around other than (heaven forbid) cutting the fiberglass shroud. If you could find an alternate way of mounting that pneumatic box it might could work. Scotty

Is this what you are talking about?

JD.. Yes that is the fan I installed. No, it's not whisper quiet... but it is pretty quiet when set on low. We like the maxxfan a lot when sleeping... provides just the right amount of white noise to cover any other sounds. The Sirocco is about the same as the maxxfan but it's a lot closer. Still not annoying and should not interfere with sleeping. I posted a video of the fan on the facebook page... you can look for it there. I cycled through the 3 speeds so you can hear how loud each is. Steve, Have not travelled with it at all but plan on leaving it in the down position. I think it would stress the fan especially on bumpy roads. Will probably leave it in the down position all the time. Thanks, Scotty

Hey Everyone, Just wanted to share some info on the Sirocco Fan install that I did recently to #145. We've had posts on this type of install before... John Davies I believe was the most robust with a metal backplate between the ceiling over the bunk and the fan base itself. This install is a bit simpler. I used a plastic sheet to act as an interior backing plate AND a drilling template. Lots of measuring and fretting were involved before actually drilling the holes. The result was better than expected. The mounting is rock solid! I used 6-32 x 2 inch machine screws with washers to mount the interior plate that the fan installs onto. The supplied backing tape is very sticky so make sure the plate is exactly where you want it before peeling the backing off that stuff. When you drill... there is an air gap above the ceiling so be prepared for that (I wasn't for the first hole) and make sure the drill is as perfectly straight as you can hold it. One thing worth mentioning is.... You will be forced to place the fan so that the stowed position is tilted FORWARD. If you try to mount it so there is enough room that the fan can fold toward the rear You will most likely have some plate mounting holes that hit the aluminum L bracket that holds the side wall of the attic. Again... lots of measuring and noodling about the placement. For power I just tapped into the cigarette lighter plug in the wall, very simple. The fan moves a lot of air even on low power. I believe it will be very nice for those hotter boondocking nights that require a LOT of fan power. I have purchased a second fan and will mount it to a small cutting board with a Cig lighter plug wired on so we can move it around as needed. I thought some folks might be in the same boat as I was in wanting to mount this fan above the bunk but worried that it might not be sturdy enough. Seems very solid. Will let you know if the next series of bumpy roads changes that. Happy Camping, Scotty

If you don't have acetone you can try a bit of WD-40 or other penetrant. You shouldn't need much. Spray a dime size on a rag and rub where the marks are. Then wash and put a bit of wax on. Most penetrants use some type of solvent to help it flow into cracks and such and it's the solvent that will clean just about anything.

A manufacturers max payload number is theoretical for a very specific version of that truck. After all is said and done, options added, axle ratios, etc. You often find that the payload numbers are far less than the maximum stated for the truck. Don't believe it until you see the sticker on the door. And, maybe then until you've put it on the scales. Then you will run into what every other half ton truck tower runs into. Payload limits.

I remember seeing that storm come across the lake... we got some awnings in before it hit. It sure was a corker.

I threw a fireplace tool with a 90 degree bend on the end in the basement years ago. Hooks the milk crates I store stuff in pretty good and use it for the campfires too. Won't go without it and am paranoid about leaving it at a campsite.

Having a grand old time reading all the posts. No need for controversy. Not even seeking advice... although I always appreciate the comments and alternate views from the brain trust. This was just one strategy for keeping the pipes from freezing in some very particular circumstances. I thought to share it in case someone was in similar circumstances and would benefit. I do have one observation for everyone that read this post and took a look at the picture I attached. NOT ONE OF YOU! ... Not one... Not even me and I took the picture... Noticed what was lurking outside the window of the trailer. Look again! Scotty

Hey John, Thanks for the comments. Yes.. I did forget some hatches.. will remedy that on colder nights. And, yes 100% of the time is a big ask. But, I monitor things pretty closely and adjust accordingly. The garage even though it's not heated usually stays above freezing. Last night it was right at that number but only for an hour or two. Can't run the heater because it's indoors. And hopefully the power stays on but if not I will have to haul the trailer out and fire up the furnace.... then make a fire in the wood stove to keep the house warm. If I am away I would winterize, and may wind up doing just that when we get back from our trip in mid January. This seemed like the best alternative for short periods and is serving me pretty well. At least it seem to be manageable so far. Thanks for the suggestions.. no matter how well we think we plan.. there is always something. At least the garage is in my back yard so easy to get to if something unplanned for happens. Scotty

Thanks JD ... I used to do the compressed air method. Might go back to it. I set the furnace to 45 if the trailer will be out below freezing but in the garage it's not an option. Happy Camping!

We have a large unheated garage that we store our trailer in. We are in the WNC mountains about 2200 feet asl. It can get cold here in the winter and we have had a week of night time temps ranging from 13 to 35 degrees. Previously I have winterized and that was fine. But.. we are planning a late December into January trip so I did not winterize. So, here is my strategy for your consideration if you find yourself in similar circumstances. Outside temps dropped to 13 degrees by morning. The garage temps are usually 15-20 degrees warmer. A Sensor Push was placed close to the pipes that go to the outside faucet. All hatches were open and a Delonghi oil filled heater, set to 50 degrees was placed in the camper. See photos. In the morning this was the result. Outside Air Temp = 13 degrees. Inside Garage Temp = 33 degrees. Inside camper = 55 degrees. In the hatch where the outside faucets are = about 42 degrees. So, I am thinking this is a pretty good plan going forward and may not winterize again ... Unless I have to be away from home. If the trailer was stored outside and the inside temp was still holding 42 degrees vs. 13 outside... hmmm... don't know if that would work. It's going to be about the same temp tonight so I've already set the heater temp up. BTW... the Sensor Push is pretty awesome. Provides a lot of comfort knowing what happened temp wise inside the trailer. Happy Camping, Scotty

Quick update.... All the numbers previously posted were my best guesstimates. I went to the dump to get a quick weight on the truck after the cap and slide were added and found that they were pretty damn good guesstimates. A Cap (6.5' bed) and slide added about 450 pounds to the overall weight. We took off some weight by removing storage boxes and changing out the running boards. Total payload is about 1500 lbs with full fuel. After me, wife, dog, and tongue weight we have about 500 lbs for gear. All in all still pretty happy with the performance. We'll have a short trip south after the Holidaze so we can see how she handles all in. Scotty

If you just want to get a weight on your Tow Vehicle you can go to your local dump and use their scales for free. Cat will give you front and rear axle and trailer.... very useful. I'm pretty sure they charge about $15 for a weight and $5 for a re-weigh on the same day. So, yes.. very useful to have. They have an app for your phone too. Scotty

I know this has been discussed on the forum but not sure if anyone has done this or if it can be done. Been thinking about the water inlets and the outdoor shower controls. Is there a way to put a shut off valve to the lines going to them? Would it be practical? I am thinking that by shutting off water to the points going out of the trailer and draining it would eliminate those parts of the plumbing system from freeze damage. The rest of it would be kept warm either by the furnace (while camping) or by running a heater inside the trailer with the hatches open (while stored) We have a garage that rarely gets below freezing in winter but it could if outside temps really dropped. Then I would just run the heater over night. TIA, Scotty

Oh....that guy...

Sorry to quote myself but I did re-watch this movie. Very funny... stands the test of time and shows what genius's Lucy and Desi were. Forgot about the whole "rocks" thing and Donna and I were laughing hard at that part. It was funny hearing the "tech" guy explain the brakes using magnets and shook my head realizing that we have the exact same brakes that they did in 1953. Before I was born for crying out loud! The movie is available free on TUBI. You'll have to watch some ads but not too bad. If you have not seen this movie... or not seen in it a while I strongly recommend "The Long Long Trailer" with Desi and Lucy. Scotty

Buddy Heater Jr. and a small ceramic heater (like the Vornado). I carry both as back up if it's going to be cold... like almost freezing cold. The ceramic for when we are plugged in and want to save a bit on propane. The Buddy Jr. for when we are not plugged in and the on board furnace craps out. You will only have to spend one really cold night with a non working furnace before making sure you have a back up plan. Scotty

You were one of the first... probably THE first... to have your trailer ceramic coated. I remember talking to Colin and he said you watched him and the crew the whole time they did the job. I told him that if you were willing to refer them... there was no better endorsement they could have. Well worth it... Now I have to find a detail shop to wash my trailer after each trip. Scotty

Can't recommend CGI and ceramic coating your Oliver enough. I store indoors and they did mine 2 years ago and it looks like new. I am thinking if you cover or store inside you will see at least 5 years before a re-coat is needed. I just washed my trailer yesterday. It had been out doors and was filthy. The dirt just wiped away. Much easier washing (especially those damn bugs) when you have a ceramic coating. So...... while washing the trailer I was thinking. Everyone thinks waxing their trailer is going to be this great Zen-Like experience. Like... you're going to be the next Karate Kid... Wax on.. wax off Daniel-san. Or, at least satisfying when you see the results. Bulls*&$. It's a pain in the A$$. After ten trips up that damn ladder you'll think 3k for ceramic coating is a bargain. Speaking of washing. CGI will recommend special soap to use that will help your coating last.... And there is a spray that can be used after washing that helps as well. Good Luck! Scotty

It works fine. Been on for years. Our original seal around the edge of the propane cover departed this earth after only a year or so. (2016 LE2) It was a pretty flimsy plastic strip. The only problem now might be finding it in white. I did an Amazon search and there are some white edge seals (non trim lok) but only black from Trim Lok. You could measure the thickness and find one that you think will work and if it doesn't look good when it arrives send it back. Amazon is pretty good that way. Good Luck Scotty

I thought it would be cool to mount a Star Link Mini in there. **** My Bad.... I misunderstood OP's post. Thought Claudia was talking about the Winegard Satellite TV antenna. See Picture. Now if we someone other than me... can figure out how to get a Star Link Mini in there... we're golden. Back to my first un-edited post. Full disclosure.... I have not seriously explored actually doing that, nor am I certain that it would even be possible. Just wanted to put the idea out there in case someone more mechanically talented than me would steal the idea and write up a post with pictures, circles, arrows, and a description of exactly how this is accomplished. Then maybe I could think about it some more. Good Luck on the removal... Don't forget to take pictures. Scotty

WOW! Have not thought of that movie in a while. I DO remember watching it on TV when I was very young. It made an impression on me. And, I like almost everyone at that time did truly "Love Lucy". Thanks for digging that one up. Scotty