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Wayfinder

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Posts posted by Wayfinder

  1. While conducting preventative maintenance, I found a couple potential unseen issues with the batteries. 

    First, there was a loose connection on the primary negative terminal where wires leave the batteries into the trailer. Could have added resistance. 

    Next, I was troubling as to why I could not connect to my Bluetooth battery monitor from Australia (POS) - came with the used trailer. Come to find out there was unseen-corrosion inside the cable connectors on the battery monitor device itself  as you see in this photo.  

    I'm hoping to change out with a victron Bluetooth SmartShunt. Seems like they are difficult to find on Amazon this week. 

    "Victron Smartshunt 1000amp/50mv Bluetooth Smart Battery Shunt"

    https://www.hodgesmarine.com/vicshu050210050-victron-smartshunt-1000amp50mv-bluetooth-smart.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwy7CKBhBMEiwA0Eb7amH5p-goWq5Zt4LI753IetrA3bdX3UP2nU4Y37hxTqzVQAvbBbS3yBoCVegQAvD_BwE

     

    When I'm on the PC next, I will search the forums to see who has experience with these Victrons.  I am trying to figure out where I'm going to put this and figure out where this yellow wire goes from the current setup. 

    Does anyone know where the yellow wire might go? This is a 2016 LE-II, not sure if the wire is stock or not. Seems like it is. PXL_20210923_154842321.thumb.jpg.717d99a58a4f467b0ab99ba4bbdb054b.jpg

  2. Ok. I did what JD suggested. Although I did not get much in the left side white line. The other side appeared to have water in it when loosening up the fitting. If I can upload this video you'll see it's making a hell of a racket but I am getting water through the system now. Suggestions for the very loud pumping. The pump itself is very quiet until the pressure is built up. The entire water system is just banging and knocking like crazy. If I wait long enough and run water long enough I assume that goes away?

    Hopefully I've set the permissions correctly on this video. To hear the noise. It's even louder up front in bathroom. Pump also turns on and off every few minutes just for a split second. Could that indicate a leak in the system where pressure is being released?

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ppIlm1Bx_7EqSiWVP_uRH0zHOGFhJf4w/view?usp=drivesdk

  3. While adjusting the fan in the middle of the night a metal part broke off in the fan and flung pieces around. Now the fan will not shut off unless I pull the fuse. Has anyone seen this part break before?  It is metal.  I'm sure it's not replaceable after 5 years. 

    Thoughts?

    Maybe I can contact MaxFan and see if they have a spare part. 

    PXL_20210909_224029991.jpg

    PXL_20210909_224010604.jpg

  4. Well, it took a while to get around to it, but I finally conducted a vinegar cleansing on the water system.  I'm back on normal city water and the bathroom faucet has not dripped a bit.  I was worried, as it was dripping almost to the point of a solid stream.  I let the vinegar/water mix set for about 4.5 hours, periodically running water through each faucet to flush (kitchen, bathroom, outside shower).

    Here are my general notes and how I did it.  I did not yet run through hot water heater as I did not have a 1.5" socket on hand to remove anode road to flush.  That's soon, to check.

    Think I "mucked" anything up?  I did see the water pump screen/filter was not too tight with a minor leak.  I hand tightened.  All good.  I should remove and inspect that too.  

    * I referenced the Oliver how-to winterizing video for basic setup, reference only.

    # Rinse system with Vinegar water solution

    - Mix 50/50 vinegar to water in a 5 gallon bucket
    - Use 3-foot host connected to the winterizing port on rear of rig, place other end in 5-gallon bucket
    - Turn off water supply from city water (outside spigot)
    - Open up water faucets to reduce pressure
    - After pressure is reduced, turn off faucets
    - Close the bypass valve to hotwater heater (only if not rinsing hot-water heater - Suburban only)
      - Will need to drain/rince hot water tank afterwards.
      - Good time to check or change anode rod
    - Configure water valves for winterization mode
    - Turn on water pump
    - Run vinegar mix through all faucets (cold & hot) until smelling vinegar
      - kitchen
      - bathroom 
      - outside shower
      - toilet
    - let soak in lines 4 to 5 hours, periodically opening faucets for a quick flush, with some mix still in bucket.

    # Normalize system

    - Re-fill bucket with clean water 
    - With water pump still on, run all fausets and toilet, removing all vinegar
    - Turn off water pump
    - Normalize bypass valves as described for trailer
    - Turn on fresh city was to trailer
    - Run city was through all faucets

    - * If fresh water tank indicates water has entered, use water jump to pump out the water - with the city water turned off.
      - Do not run water dump completely dry.

    - Empty black then grey tanks.

     

     

  5. I'm not sure why, but even hooked up to 30 amp, my Blue Sky Battery monitor is indicating a slow discharge, now 91% full, but my cheap Bluetooth-enabled shunt, on the battery, which came with #110, indicates all for 12v flooded lead acid are full.  

    I'm not sure what's going on.  I've tried "rebooting" the trailer and all electronics (resetting ALL breakers and surge protectors).  Everything else seems to be working just fine. 

    NOTE: The charging status does seem to blink at different stages of what should be charging.  As it should.

    I'll see what the solar does to the indicator today, as the sun is actually shining.

    Ideas?  I should call that Blue Sky guy, someone had recommended months ago, maybe it was @SeaDawg or @John E Davies.

    I might be soloing it for a while, maybe even an early Full-time status, for a while at least. That's for another day.

    Thanks!

     

    Blue-Sky-Battery1.jpg

  6. On 6/26/2021 at 8:57 PM, SeaDawg said:

    I hope it works.

     A glass of any white wine, when we meet someday,  will be appreciated ...

    I only order by the case. It costs less that way. 😉

     

    On 6/26/2021 at 8:57 PM, SeaDawg said:

     

     

    • Haha 1
  7. I suppose I'll ask on this thread. Let me know if I should start a new one. 

    We have LE II with 2020 RAM 1500 Limited (with OEM adjustable airbags). With the bags we can raise the truck up or down about 6 inches. Truck adjusts itself periodically for various reasons. 

    The RV reseller / dealer (not Oliver) really discourage us from getting the Andersen WDH, especially with the airbags, which we may not be able to "defeat" or bypass. They stopped recommending Andersen some years ago. He warned us that if we cannot defeat the truck from automatically adjusting the height of truck, that it can potentially place unwanted strain on the WDH and that we may be fighting with it to keep up with height adjustments.  

    We need to hear from those with OEM airbags to get a better insight.

    What issues may we encounter and what solutions, if any, are needed?

    We would also like to take out some of the unwanted porpoisin when on country roads or bridges. The insurance liability is also a concern. It is stated in the users manual for pulling over 5,000 lbs. We certainly reach that weight when we are loaded down with all the other fun junk. 

    The other, very expensive, option is to move up to a RAM 2500. Yet there may still be porpoisin, not sure how much. 

    Thanks,

    Chris

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