Wayfinder
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Posts posted by Wayfinder
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1 hour ago, Mike and Carol said:
Thanks Mike and Carol. I just tried that. Also, will run thru some basic water pump exercises tomorrow. Since we've been on city all week while learning the rig.
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The next issue I'll search for is why our fresh water tank fills up on city hookups. Water pump is off. It will be the next thread if I cannot find old thread on subject.
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Thanks Bill and everyone. It turned out as well as expected. Even though everyone in the state park were doing a mass exodus after the holiday, we got in line at the dump station to perform our very first dump, ever, with a full hose. Thankfully the hose was of high quality. No mishaps. We exercised the valves and flushed the best we could with folks behind us. We leave tomorrow and there will be no crowds and can take our time to flush again.
Came back and cleaned the port side windows' weep holes and troughs. What will now flow out in the rains.
Don't go cheap on the poopy hose.
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Well, we will not be able to post that it was a completely successful maiden voyage. It seems that our waste hose is full of liquid in the back bumper on our EL II. The good news is the ends of hose are sealed. The relief valves are sealed closed but there must be a leak. We see no liquid in between the hulls. We think it's only grey water.
Who has experience with this?
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This is Chris, I will make Erika take it off in five years. I'll be too old then. She's 10 years younger. LOL
I blame my boss, he's the sailor who recommended it. He's such a jokester. Darn him.
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At least my sign still says "Oliver", and not a stop sign. LOL Poke poke.
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I might pay the price for my decision in 5 years or so. Or, when asked why I'm trading in this Ollie for a new one, I'll simply say the Oliver sign is "stuck".
Thanks!
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Well, no matter the brand, there will always be repairs. Remember, earthquakes on wheels in the weather. Good luck. You can also order a new Oliver lens, from what I have heard, if you're not too mad at them. LOL
Hang in there. A Jayco would have fallen apart by now you'd be gutting it from the inside. LOL
I lucked out and the previous owner kept this one under cover most of the time.
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Okay. First small project completed. I was able to remove the remaining, old butyl tape, (so it appeared to be). Some was already missing from top and sides. I used a plastic scraper and tweezers to remove old. I would recommend plastic picks or bone tools, but could not find any local.
I then carefully cleaned up the edge (gap around the Oliver lens) with asetone, careful not to touch the black sticker (vinyl) on the Oliver sign, in fear it would remove the back vinyl. I did use a marine-grade sealant, recommended by a sailor friend with fiberglass sea water boats. We'll see how it goes in coming years. I was not able to budge the Oliver lens (glass). The old butyl tape seemed to still be holding well. But it appeared to have been repaired before due to two different colors of sealant. One white (outer), one grey (inner-most).
It looks better than it did, and should not leak, not that it had started yet. The rear window also needed some love around the upper corners. There were unsealed gaps between the fiberglass and the window frame. I cleaned and sealed those small areas as well.
Good luck with your projects.
PS. DO NOT USE THE SEALANT I USED. 3M 5200 is TOO strong.
Chris
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Here's a pic of my rear Oliver light/sign. Looks like someone either tried to caulk the edge, or it came from the factory like that in 2016. Someone will tell me, I'm sure.
How should I tackle this? Other than removing old caulk, should I seal from inside the sign or just use butyl tape, or use good caulk, from the outside?
I do have new butyl tape on hand, just in case I needed it. I know there's a "caulk fight" going on in the threads too. LOL What are good options for fiberglass AND future removing of said caulk when old?
I know it's pretty easy to get to the sign from the inside, although I have not yet pealed back the insulation in the back cabinet. I'm sure there is a thread or two on how to do this, though I have not yet found them. Not sure how folks refer to the "Oliver light/sign". I think some just refer to it as the "third light" or something like that.
Thanks again. Top-shelf bourbon will be on its way soon enough to the most helpful. LOL Will deliver in person. (Bottle sealed naturally).
Picture: https://photos.app.goo.gl/uREFN1dLoUHr88q48
Chris
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Erika and I have been listening to Craig Alanson's Expeditionary Force series (book 12 on June 1st). Columbus Day is the first book. It may seem a bit slow at first (build back-story), but about the time you think the story is over (1/2 way through), you'll be introduced to a VERY interesting character named Skippy. He'll be in every other book thereafter. Joe and Skippy really make the entire series funny. This is a amusing Sci-Fi series, but not too deep nor technical. You won't have to think too hard on any technical terms. It's written for "dumb monkeys", you'll get that reference soon enough.
Narrated by R.C. Bray. He's absolutely the best.
Enjoy.
Chris
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In our 2016 LEII, we noticed we can change the pitch of the "buzz", "hum", or "tinnitus" like noises coming from the trailer. I, Chris, had a difficult time even noticing it due to tinnitus, but Erika heard it right away. Moving different switches in the trailer to different positions produces different pitches, some higher than other sounds. Even turning on or off the booster(s) will produce the noise. The LEDs don't even need to be turned on to hear the noise, though more difficult for someone with tinnitus to hear.
Has anyone experienced this before in the Olivers?
Is this a potential issue, or simply the tech in the rigs?
Would newer LEDs, if they’re the issue, produce less of this noise?
I know LEDs can produce an electromagnetic (EM) hum when on dimmers, but we don’t have any dimmer switches (that we know of).
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Here are two pics. Taken while on power. Should be raining tomorrow, and we have a great deal of shade around use this weekend, so not sure about any good solar.
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We're just trying to learn as much as possible to make sure everything is functioning as designed. Thanks for your help & everyone on the forums.
Erika
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14 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:
Do you have battleborn lithium, or fla?
That confuses me
Oh, sorry, just flooded.
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@ScubaRx, thanks for the great idea. I did find that the original WeBoost was shot. I got "lucky" and was able to replace the old one with the new. The power supply was also within .5 volts and was able to power the new. Though both external and internal antennas seem to work "well enough", and like @GraniteStaters mentioned, I too am wondering if the better cable and newer external antenna will provide minor improvements. The old internal antenna is in quite a useless location, over the dinette table between the lights. Using a Network Cell monitoring app on the phone, I see that the best signals to the phones or a hotspot/puck is basically touching the front of the internal antenna. Better yet, simply Velcro the hotspot next to old internal antenna. You cannot do that with the antenna over the table with a cell phone in hand. Even three feet away you will lose valuable signal strength with these booster antennas. I'll likely create a video about that on YouTube when I have time.
Other option: I'm considering using strong double-sided tape to hang the new internal antenna in "nearly" the same location as the old one, but much closer to the window where a dedicated hotspot can rest on the window shade frame and nearly touching the antenna. That should work great, as it does with my phone now. The hotspot will broadcast throughout the trailer and outside, freeing up my phone for chatting and moving around. Tomorrow, I visit Verizon for a dedicated hotspot.
Pics to following later.
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Thanks @SeaDawg. Everything looks to be working really well. Batteries take a charge in the Sun, and on shore power. I will start with the link you provided, than call Blue Sky as you indicated. The dealer who changed the batteries, does have a good technician for all their Battleborn upgrades. We'll see if they did what was right. They have very high reviews overall. We were surprised at how smooth everything went, though I allowed for a week or more get everything done. Just a small dealer, nothing huge.
Thank you again!
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10 hours ago, geokeg said:
Does the display under the street side bunk display the same information? I think you can disconnect the phone wire from it that goes to the remote display to restart the remote display. We had solar controller wiring issues with our trailer and that is how I remember it. Do you have the Blue Sky documentation? If not you can get it through the Oliver University site. Since your unit went from 6v AGM to 12v wet cell you probably should look through the set up procedure and for equalizing, etc. I would be concerned about the wiring also since you went from batteries in series to parallel configuration. Battery physical security and case clearances with venting should also be checked.
No info is display under the bunk. Only the state indicator is the charge status light.
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10 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:
My display has gone out a few times, always when I touch it with some static discharge. To fix, unscrew the four screws, pull it out and disconnect the telephone type wire from the back (power). After a few seconds it will reset itself, reconnect the wire and put it back. That should get the display back. Mike
Thanks MIke! That totally did the trick. Now to read more from the other replies. Take care, Chris
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Our old Blue Sky remote panel seems to indicate the charge status well enough, but there is absolutely no information or text on the display, no matter what buttons are pressed.
Im not sure if someone's previous modifications may have disabled the display. Is that display info provided by the main solar boost module under the bed or from another shunt somewhere?
Not sure what to check for.
Also, when hooked up to shore power for over a day, the charge status indictor goes to solid green. Is that normal?
The reseller dealer did change out what I think were 4 x 6 volt AGMs with 4 x 12 volt flooded lead acid. Maybe a config issue? But without display I cannot tell.
Thanks,
Chris
(a computer guy and wanna-be smaht camper energy systems guy)
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@SeaDawg the new antenna has this small coax (SMA?) connectors. The old antenna on the Ollie is the tiny magnetic type. Pic attached.
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Has anyone replaced the cellular antenna on legacy Elite 2 (2016)? I have a new antenna and wondering how easy it will be to pull through the new cable using the old cable.
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13 hours ago, Nancy K. said:
Is this the Ollie that was at the dealer in Apex? We live pretty close to there in Fuquay-Varina. Congrats!
Yes, ma'am. Thanks so much! We're excited to be a part of the Oliver family.
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16 minutes ago, Jim_Oker said:
Re: Truma, their manual does say NOT to use vinegar in the Truma. They say you must use their stuff for descaling the heater. But you can still do a vinegar flush of the rest of the system with the water heater cutoff valve set to divert it from from the heater.
Thanks, Jim. We don't have a Truma, so we'll give the vinegar flush a try.
Seal the rear Oliver Light (re-caulk?)
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
Great job. Looks better than mine, but apparently my sign will remain on the Ollie during a category 5 hurricane.
😁