Wayfinder
-
Posts
495 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
7
Posts posted by Wayfinder
-
-
14 hours ago, Steve and Deb said:
I bought two 2-packs of the Blue Sea 30A slow-blow fuse from Amazon. Expensive, but I've used Blue Sea products for decades, and have never had even a hint of a problem.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZOIR1O?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Thanks Steve and Deb for the link to a product which, surprisingly, details out what the fuse is "typically" used for. Also Geronimo John's links to better educate Ollie Owners, who are not super heroes with electrical yet. It's great that the Blue Sea 30A slow-blow fuse really does a great job describing what these fuses are. It's the first fuse description I've seen that does that well. Agreed?
About this item (Blue Sea Systems MDL Fuses)
- 2 slow blow glass fuses per retail package
- For use with Blue Sea Systems' ST Glass Fuse Blocks and AGC or MDL fuse holders
- AGC and MDL fuses are typically used in DC systems up to 32V DC
- Visible indication of blown condition
- Slow blow glass fuse for pumps and other motors
- For use with Blue Sea Systems' ST Glass Fuse Blocks and AGC or MDL fuse holders
- AGC and MDL fuses are typically used in DC systems up to 32V DC
- Five per retail package
- 1,000A Interrupt Capacity
-
1
-
Geronimo John,
Thanks for the education. I researched the differences between all these acronyms for fuses I'm a bit more smahta now, until tomorrow when I forget. Nothing like keeping it easy for dumb consumers like me. LOL
Someone might ask what the downside, or upside, of a ceramic fuse is, like this one (YOLISTIC 30 Amp Slow-Blow Time Delay Fuse Ceramic 6x30mm). Compared to glass.
Also Grainger seems to spell it out quite well for the Brussmann 30amp fuse, and "should be" trustworthy compared to some Amazon resellers out there.Take care!
Chris
-
This very old thread (Rear power jacks don't work) did not mention which was a good replacement for the Bussmann fuses that were arriving from Amazon with a single fuse in the bags.
What is another "good" fuse to use on these rear jacks that are also "time delayed" or "slow blowing" fuse?
This is what was mentioned in the thread.
These are do not indicate slow blow, yes still a MDL30:
https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-MDL-30-Fuse-Buss-MDL30/dp/B078SYLF3H-
1
-
-
The front jack has been replaced by the previous owner with a Husky Super Brute 4000 Premium Electric Tongue Jack and needs very little maintenance. There's always a leather-like cover on it, so it looks perfect, even to this day. I'll do it's tiny bit of maintenance when it's warmer out. It won't take long.
HSB4000 maintenance from the user manual: Due to the design of the Husky® Super Brute’s low-friction ball screw, the inner assembly of the jack does not require regular lubrication. But to keep your jack in good, functional condition, fully extend the jack and clean the inner jack tube once per year. After cleaning, coat the tube with a light grease or silicone spray lubricant.
That's the entire maintenance plan. I like it so far. LOL
-
1
-
-
That worked great John. Thanks. Sometimes I can't see the forest through the trees.
-
1
-
-
The drivers side came right off without a problem.
Time new grease?
-
Hey, fun times. Look what I THOUGHT I needed to cut out to fully inspect the rear, left jack gears? I can tell the gears are a bit dry especially under the gear lid, which I thought at first I could not remove. Update: Thanks to John Davies' advice, I simply loosened the three 5/32 Allen nuts and was able to completely remove the gear box from the jack stand. There was no need to cut the fiber glass to allow the gear box lid to be removed. But still, the fiberglass opening could have been a half inch to the right. I'm sure Oliver has fixed that after all these years.
Also, I did what Jason did and simply tapped all the corners near the bolts and the lids came right off, even after all these years.
What do newer EL II openings around the water pump look like these days? Is there more space to remove the gear box?
-
I will clean the stands and inspect the gears. I've watched that inspection video a couple time before, but never actually checked the gears myself, (BAD BOY). I'll let you all know what I find. They've been like that since I purchased the used 2016 TT, nearly two years ago.
-
2
-
-
Does this seem normal for older jacks. 2016.
-
On 1/21/2023 at 2:07 PM, thompsonkd said:
On this thread, people are referring to turning on/off the inverter on the actual inverter instead of using the remote. Where exactly on the inverter is the on/off switch?
David
It's very difficult to see on my. You'll need a flash light, but it's on the front. You might see the button if the user manual shows it or look that model up online.
-
I may have missed it mentioned in this long thread, but will there be discussions of the new changes to the program at the Olivery rally in May, in Gunterville State Park?
-
1
-
-
N00b mistake!
Well, thanks to one of the Private Facebook "Oliver Trailer Owners" (I think) I realized I had not actually registered with Oliver for the rally in May. I'm good now. Make sure you're registered with Oliver. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/events/oliver-owners-rally/
-
1
-
4
-
-
Well, these new hoses went on in a snap. No leaks now. I did need to rotate the tanks 90 degrees so the lines fit best. We'll see if they last another six years.
-
3
-
7
-
-
On 12/27/2022 at 12:32 PM, Rivernerd said:
It seems to me that the brass 90 built into the 12" replacement hoses you bought would reduce the stress on the hose connections, likely increasing the useful life of the assembly. Does anyone know why Oliver doesn't install 12" hoses with the brass 90's, instead of the longer hoses that must be bent into a tight curve to make that 90-degree turn from the tank to the regulator connection?
When I get the new lines installed, I'll upload a before/after pic. I too am hoping the new shorter lines with 90 degree connectors will reduce movement when removing tanks.
-
1 hour ago, topgun2 said:
For what its worth - last Spring I replaced my hoses with two of THESE in the 12 inch length combined with two of THESE emergency gas cut off devices. All was purchased from TechnoRV.com.
A couple of notes -
1 - make sure that you check the size of the connections on the hoses. Given your hull # I'd bet that you will need adaptors for these hoses to connect to the regulator.
2 - Given that the fittings on any of these hoses are made of brass, be careful that you do not over-tighten the fittings in that you stand a good chance of stripping the threads on that relatively soft brass. I believe that the torque setting is 25 foot pounds (but please reconfirm this).
3 - Make certain that you use "gas" tape or pipe dope. The tape is a bright yellow color and the pipe dope will be clearly marked as for use with gas.
Bill
Bill,
Looks like I already have the hose connector adaptors.
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, Ollie-Haus said:
Getting a new regulator will make you feel good for being on the ball. Getting a new truck will put a smile on your face every time you have to go somewhere, or even look out in the driveway. 😉
Well, that's a huge cost difference when I'm already looking pretty good, AND I have the Decked system already in the truck. LOL But, if I do more mountain-driving, then I'm sure I'll change my tune. 😝
-
1
-
-
Carrying too many spare parts gets really expensive. Not only takes up more space, but then I need to upgrade from a 1500 to a 2500 truck. Oooh, that's a good reason. LOL
-
3
-
3
-
-
Sorry if this is duplicate, but I cannot find the correct search term(s) in this forum to find the right thread.
It's time to replace my original propane regulator-to-tank hoses. They are leaking at the metal seams.
Since my rig is a 2016 (#110) would you recommend also replacing the regulator too? I see no problem with it, yet, but, you know how that goes.
Also, what type of hose upgrades might you recommend, if any? Are braided more flexible, safer, better? A little longer than original or not. I used a string to measure mine, I'm not sure how they measure them, but it looks like they may be nearly 15 inches (or 1 1/4') on E-Trailer.com. Also looks like they have the inverted flare male connector (the smaller diameter one).
Any part(s) suggestions are welcome. I'm okay with making it better than factory-provided.
Is there anything that will allow for less movement of the hoses when taking the tanks in and out?
Here's what I see so far: https://www.etrailer.com/Propane-Fittings/JR-Products/37207-30725.html
When it's warming, I intend on checking all the lines under the hull too for potential leaks.
Happy New Year (2023)
-
Thanks Bill @topgun2 . I watch the videos and it does look like a simple repair, depending on what product I use to replace the old calk. It does seem completely inadequate to start with, from the factory. This first step I took, was to tighten up all the screws. There were QUITE a few that we very lose. None were stripped out, so that's good. I might get the hose on it today to see what happens.
Thanks again gang! I hope to meet some of you at next year's rally in alaBAMA! 😛
Chris
-
1
-
-
Well, I did it. My first rally event of ANY sort in my life. Make it a good one. LOL
I reserved spot G28, but I will arrive on 16th and depart on 22nd.
I'm not sure if I'll be solo or with one other person. We'll see. 🙂
Cheers,
Chris
-
4
-
-
The screen I placed in the side of the AC and held in with magnets held up well when traveling. And, no more birds.
-
1
-
-
Bill and all, thanks for the suggestions. It's been a year of adversities, but finally found that the window on the door leaks. Should be easy to fix, but I have not removed all the internal screws of the inner frame.
Has anyone had to reseal the door window?
Thanks, Chris
-
I basically went through the same routine. The new remote can only shut off the inverter, not on, but ONLY with the new cable provided with the new remote. So I assume it's now a firmware issue. Old inverter versus a 2022 remote - dated on the side of the remote. I sent a support ticket to Xantrex, but have heard nothing. They may be laughing, due to age of inverter. I may buy a new one, they appear to be the same exact form factor, but first will see if I even use it enough to warrant a new inverter. Wait until it too dies.
-
After a year of sitting, my Xantrex ProWatt SW Remote also died. I did just try suggestions above, but looking at the date on the side of the remote (2018), it appears it was already replaced by previous owner. I have Hull #110 (2016). Ordering from Amazon now, $25.00. I'll try to report back on this thread.
Amazon Search: "Xantrex 808-9001 PROwatt SW Remote Switch"
It's been a long year of personal challenges, time to take the Ollie out for a short trip. I was in it nearly everyday checking battery/solar statuses.
HOW TO: VIP 3000 Electric Stabilizer Jack Service
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
@John E Davies It's not quite been two years since you used that awesome grease in the electric jacks, but it "might be" of interest to some what the grease is now looking like, at least in one of the rear jacks, which are easier to inspect. I would imaging, even with a good bit of use, that the grease looks fine and has remained on the teeth of the gears/cogs, unlike the white grease that came from the jack manufacturer.