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Wayfinder

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Posts posted by Wayfinder

    Parking on Slopes or Hills

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted

    2 minutes ago, Steve Morris said:

    I once drove my 1968 VW Beetle nose first down a boat ramp to see if it would float. I got as far as the rear tires a couple inches from the water's edge, and nothing was floating yet. Maybe it was because I had the convertible top down... 🤷‍♂️

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    There may have been drinking involved, too. That 3.2% Budweiser was potent stuff! 🤣

    I saw that movie.  You were fantastic in that.  

    • Love 1
    • Haha 1

    Parking on Slopes or Hills

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted

    37 minutes ago, ScubaRx said:

    Sorry, I assumed those were Harbor Freight. Either will work just fine. As a side note, I forgot to remove mine in the driveway once. I drove about 10 feet with them skidding along before they finally gave up and let me run over them. Ruined one (broke it).

    See, if you can break one of these Heavy duty rubber chocks, especially in only 10 or even 50 feet, then I would step up to a better brand.  Maybe I'll go for those nice ones I linked before and let folks know what I think of them.  Some advantages to these I am thinking of after camping on a slope:

    • Larger
    • heavier
    • Pass-thru handle that, in a pinch, could be used to drive a large "spike" or "pin" through to secure it more to the ground - no slipping at all.
    • Unlike my current ones, these curve with the tire and are quite pointed to get farther under the tires.  
    • Really looks top-notch to me.  
    • Lastly, HF for $8 each or these AFA Tooling for $12 each.  
    • Like 1

    Parking on Slopes or Hills

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted

    5 hours ago, Patriot said:

    Parking or setting up on hills and slopes? The thought immediately comes to mind-  what could possibly go wrong? Overall you made it work, and hopefully enjoyed a nice lakeside stay and beat the odds of water testing your Olivers flotation capabilities. 
    Onward!

    Patriot🇺🇸

    You must agree, that a floating Oliver would go viral on RV social media.  I purposely closed up the rear basement door and the walk-in door, JUST in case.  I wonder if Oliver would give me a break on my next Oliver, if I could make mine float for over an hour or two, naturally if it was by accident.  LOL

    • Haha 1

    Parking on Slopes or Hills

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted

    5 hours ago, ScubaRx said:

    The only thing I would change here is to turn the HF chocks over. The ridged side should be on the ground and the slightly concave side should be against the tire. In another of your subsequent posts it is clearer than these photos that they are upside down.

    Also, when breaking camp, raise those rear jacks before raising the tongue. Keep the chocks in place until completely hooked up. You don't want to make the front jack try to lift the whole weight of the trailer and you certainly don't want the trailer at the bottom of the hill.

    I think you made poor campsite into a completely workable one.  We've run into this same problem in various spots, especially at Quartzsite.

    I broke down camp just like you said, raised jacks, slowly, and kept safety chains connected to truck and was ready to pull brake pin too if needed.  But, it was steady as a rock.  

    I can never remember which way is up with my rubber chocks, mine do not have any concave shape to the one side.   I think mine are these here.  Flat shape on both sides.

    Now these heavy duty rubber chocks look like real nice chocks, and weighing in at 3.5 lbs each.  A set of four would do the trick for sure.  And, they'll all match.  😉 

    • Like 1

    Parking on Slopes or Hills

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted

    Well, thanks to all the reminders and scary stories, I not only successfully hooked back up, but the Ollie didn't move a bit.  I was able to lower my truck (using my RAM airbags) and get just close enough that the safety cables (chains) (attached pic) were able to reach the receiver on the truck.  I'm still shocked that the trailer didn't appear to move at on on a 3.7 degree slope. Although, I had to use my Rubber mallet that I always carry to persuade the blocks to come free from the tires. Especially the one chock with what @Geronimo John called a "shear-plane".  That was determined to keep tires in place.  LOL 

    I will be adding a few more things to my next trip, like X-Chocks and a few more 2x6.  I do have one pair of the Andersen Levelers, but didn't try using them, but then again, only the rear-most axle/tires could have been lifted with the Andersens I had on hand.  

    Attached are some pics of how I always block on level ground I prefer to have the 4x4 under then jack foot itself, and always positioned diagonally. 

    Also a shot of two different 4x4 blocks I JUST now wrapped in different rubber (non-slip) materials.  I like the solid material better, but the perforated material is really non-slick.  I will test out to see if that makes any difference in ANY situation.  I also need to cut some of that solid non-slip material for my Andersen Levelers, mine did not come with rubber pads like I think they do now.

     

    front-jack-blocks.jpg

    rear-tires-Jack-chocks-blocked.jpg

    Oliver-cabled-to-truck.jpg

    rubber-blocks.jpg

    • Like 1

    Parking on Slopes or Hills

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted

    @Geronimo John and everyone, thanks for the reminders. More 2x6s are needed. With careful design and planning it might be worth making several of the interconnect, so in my case this week, I could have assembled a ramp-like solution to at least reduce the slopping affect. The upper most plank could have a "stop" block (make from oak) glued and screwed to the very end so you know you cannot easily to too far. 

    • Like 2

    Parking on Slopes or Hills

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted

    Okay experienced Oliver Owners.  In your opinion, what is the best way(s) to ensure you successfully park and unhitch on a slope or incline/decline?

    What are the best chocks you've used?

    What other safety measures do you take?

    Have you made better chocks than you can find in the stores?

    This is what I dealt with this week.  First time, and was nervous about it.  I used four large solid chocks.  Two are simply 4x4s wrapped in rubber non-slip material, that other are purchased heavy duty solid rubber triangle chocks.

    And, I hate to ask, but better safe than sorry, do you see anything terribly wrong with what I've done in the pics?

    Thanks.

    Oliver-slope-1.jpg

    Oliver-slope-zoomed2.jpg

    • Like 2

    What does happen when pulling brake cable

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted

    Great advice from both of you. Adding to my checklist. 

    This was the first time to park on a slope towards a lake. So the cable did stay connected to the truck last and I was ready to pull it after that just in case. Also, being anal is safe, usually. 

    Although, I would hope I would have the peace of mind to video record and Oliver floating in a lake because at that point there would not be much else I could do. LoL

    I wonder what Tennessee Oliver would say if someone brought an Oliver to them for repairs and was full of water and a fish or two?  Hehe

    • Thanks 1
    • Like 1

    2023 Oliver Trailer Rally at Lake Guntersville Registration is Now Open (And Attendees List)

    in Events & Rallies

    Posted

    @ScubaRx or anyone, did the reminder to register with Oliver themselves for the OTTOR get put on the major Facebook page(s)?  I know I put a reminder out about that quite a while ago, when I too didn't realize I needed to register with Oliver, but I don't see a recent post about it on the "Oliver Trailer Owners" FB page, but I likely missed it.

    Again, I'll be in campsite G28 - Chris from Augusta, GA.

    Walk-in Door Window Resealed

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted

    20 hours ago, AndrewK said:

    Chris,

    I have used Dicor BT-1834 on two windows, the Truma Aguago frame, the Atwood heater frame and the outlet covers with great success.

    If you are applying it while it is cold, you won't find it to be as sticky as it, when it is warm.  It also does not compress as well.

    Andrew

    Good tip.  It sounds like you have had to reseal more items than I've heard of before.  I was wondering about that stickiness, or how it pulls apart with more "stringiness", is that a word?  I might try to put it in the refrigerator before putting it on the door frame, than, lit it warm up in the Georgia spring air before pressing it onto the hull.  Sounds legit to me.  Thanks @AndrewK 

    Using a fan to air out the hull - An UPDATE and Suggestion for everyone.

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted

    Oh, don't misunderstand me, most all the smells have remained "gone" since I did that initial blow-out nearly two years ago.  I only mentioned it because I too found it strange that a 5 year old TT (then to me) still had some "funky" smells.  No, not really glue or resins, or poo or pee, just, well, something, and not horrible, just a bit noticeable. 

    The smells are mostly all gone since I did that initial air-out.  Just wanted to bring it up as a possible solution and to state how surprised I have been that they remained gone since.  Now that I think of of it, it might be good for people with bad allergies, although, they may not elect to go camping in the first place.  LOL

    Cheers,

    Chris

     

    Using a fan to air out the hull - An UPDATE and Suggestion for everyone.

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted

    I thought I had posted something about airing out the hull using a fan, but that was nearly two years ago and I can't find the thread, if there is one at all. 

    I wanted to update my findings on hull 110 (2016), which I purchased used in 2021.  I had always noticed a "funny" smell from the trailer, especially from within the hull area.  Not a horrible wet smell, but maybe more of a mechanical, glue-like smell.  

    Well, even today the trailer still smells MUCH better, even after sitting in the sun all last summer.  The inner hull is still not nearly as bad as it was when I purchased the trailer. 

    I think Oliver, or more efficiently, the new owners, should air out their hulls a few weeks after they get them.  Some owners get their new trailers so fast that I bet glue is still curing upon pick-up.

    This is what I do.  A 24" fan blowing into the passenger side bed hatch with the dinette hatch open, tyically the one closest to the bathroom (not pictured), along with all windows open and roof fans running at least on low.  Try it, see if it improves the hull smell, even on older Olivers.  Good luck. I ran mine for hours on a nice sunny day the first time.

    I'm only showing the electrical hatch open, as that's where I was working replacing the CO detector today. 😉 

     

    ollie-fan-air-out.jpg

    ollie-fan-air-in.jpg

    • Like 6

    Walk-in Door Seal - leaks like a sieve

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted

    I just called Oliver. They just use the grey Butyl Tape on the walk-in doors, so I'm good.  They did say I'll need to go thru Lippart for a new door seal.  I think that's another spot that can be a problem, although for now I have augmented it with another small, "double-tubed", seal on the hinge side of the inner frame.  It works so well I don't see any more light shining through now.  It's only a temporary stop-gap to get me through to the Rally in May, unless I get the seal before then. 

    I'm hoping nothing in life comes up so I can meet more Ollie owners.

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