MAX Burner
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Posts
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Posts posted by MAX Burner
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10 hours ago, jd1923 said:
I would remove all the switch lights for standard hardwired lights.
Concur, 100%, John!
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23 minutes ago, Mike and Carol said:
We’ve used TST and metal stems for the last 7/8 years or so and a lot of miles, no issues. Mike
Same here, Mike.
In fact in New Mexico (I understand in other states, as well), State Police will issue citations for those driving on E-rated tires and rubber stems. Evidently, metal stems are far less to cause a catastrophic tire failure at the higher pressures than rubber stems - not that anyone in this community runs at 80psi...
Rule of thumb - if you're running any tire over 80psi, you should consider metal valve stems. These, for example, are rated at 200psi and are recommended by eTrailer for E-rated tires, FYI:
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5 minutes ago, John Welte said:
Thanks Max, I appreciate the thorough comment. We go to Colorado at least once a year with the trailer as our daughter lives in Denver. Any idea if they could install them if we came by Grand Junction? I suppose we could buy them then have someone install them. I confess that I am not too handy.
John
Hey, John;
Alcan will absolutely install them at their shop rate in GJ. It's what they do! You'll have the piece of mind that they'll be R&R'd correctly. For arrangements, you can call either Lew or Mike at:
970.241.2655
Good plan, brother!
Good luck!
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On 4/16/2024 at 12:00 PM, mossemi said:
I replaced my Zamp PWM CC with a Victron MPPT CC which I installed beneath the street side bed and I had to connect the wiring from the solar panels to the wiring going to the Victron CC. That splice was done behind the original Zamp CC location. And I found that solar panel wiring ran from the original Zamp CC location back to the attic and up into the inner/outer hull cavity and onto the combiner box.
We did the same by replacing our ZAMP PWM with the more efficient Victron MPPT unit, but we mounted ours on the forward bulkhead inside the compartment behind the Furrion. The wiring for the solar modules were right there like @mossemi and @mountainoliver describe.
Access was gained both by removing the Furrion and going through the deck plate on the forward bulkhead of the overhead storage compartment aft of the pantry. Both were needed to get "hands-on" the mounting location. Pic below taken from the overhead storage compartment looking forward through the deck plate opening:
We added Victron's remote gauge to monitor solar energy production in addition to their 7" touch screen. The pic below isn't a very good snap but you can see the 7" screen (with protective cover attached) above the Furrion and to the right is a partial view of Victron's circular solar monitor:
We like the Victron features...
Cheers!
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That's awesome! Who bought?
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4 minutes ago, Ronbrink said:
I find the polishing/waxing ordeal therapeutic, for both me and the Oliver!
Same here - but D calls it a "sickness"....
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On 4/17/2024 at 9:40 AM, John Welte said:
Max,
How common has it been to have a leaf spring break? I have been following this issue. We stay on good roads with the occasional pothole. I see a lot of owners who are switching out.
John
Hey, John:
There's at least 4 or 5 "reported" broken springs from reading these forums. Obviously, no clue how many haven't been reported here. But I've learned that there are some good reasons for switching out the 4-packs to higher rated 5-pack springs. Let me summarize:
1. Spring Rating: There's evidence that the Chinese-made "AxleTek" 4-packs, although rated at 1,750# may actually less than that rating. Mike at Alcan informed me of this. The 5-packs are rated in the 2,250# range. So, the 5-packs have somewhere in the range of 500# more weight rating. Can an owner "feel" the difference? I tried. My wife drove me around our country road neighborhood for several miles before and after swapping out springs. FWIW: I couldn't "feel" any difference.
2. Weak Area Near Eyelets: Of the reported broken springs - the break occurs within a couple inches from the eyelet on the top spring - this break is near the end of the second spring which is about 4.5" from the eyelet. On the 5-packs, the second spring extends beyond the center of the eyelet about 7/16" on either side - doubling the spring material where reported ones break. To experience a broken 5-pack spring - the break would have to take-out the two top springs. That's likely why there's never been a reported 5-pack break.
3. Bushings: The bronze bushings in the Chinese-made spring eyelets are measured at 1/16" thickness on my springs - the replacement Alcan spring bushings are right at 1/4" thick - 4x the material, which will take much longer to wear out. Also, to get that 1/4" thick bushing into that eyelet the outside diameter of the eyelet must be made larger. The OD of the AxleTek eyelet is 1.34" while the Alcan eyelet is 1.53", giving the 5-pack eyelets a more robust configuration.
4. Steel Composition: The Chinese steel is of unknown pedigree - unless someone wants to pay for an NDA test (which I'm not interested in) we'll only know subjectively that their steel sucks compared to the recognized high-quality of US-made steel.
5. Comparative Weight: OK, the 5-packs have one extra leaf, right? How much more do you think that extra leaf weighs? I weighed both - the Chinese AxleTek is right at 10#; where the Alcan comes in at 18#. Here's why:
The total length of spring material in the 4-packs is 66-1/4" versus 99" for the 5-packs, or 49% more material in the 5-packs.
10# versus 18# = an 80% increased weight for the 5-packs.
Above shows the eyelet-to-eyelet measurement of the 4-pack top spring. Each subsequent spring length was measured straight across from end to end. Notice the "flattening" of the arc of the 4-pack. The other 4-packs were flattened like this one.
JFTR: We never even come close to the 7k# GVWR of the OTT on any of our excursions.
6. Price Point: New 5-packs/U-bolt kit will cost owners approximately $800 plus shipping from Grand Junction, CO. I'm in NM and shipping was $110. FYI: No tax if purchased outside of CO.
For us it was a no-brainer. One of the last issues we want to handle is a broken leaf spring in the middle of a boon docking location in the middle of EBF somewhere.
Cheers!
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31 minutes ago, 2008RN said:
Or possible mis-rated and/or poor quality 3.5K# Dexters spring packs.
Right on, brother!
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I'd consider going with a GS anytime!!! Loved that scooter!
The GS community in the Rockies is extensive and very supportive to members. We used to hit the rallies and runs all up and down the spine of the Rockies for many years.
Still do so - but now it's on our K-bike, 2-up. HA!
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22 hours ago, carnivore said:
I placed an Alcan order this morning with Luo for springs, 9/16" u-bolts and nuts.
We worked with both Mike and Lew at Alcan in ordering our 5 spring-packs. Great guys and very helpful.
FYI: We decide to reuse our wet bolts as the brass bushings in the spring eyes (albeit very thin) were still intact which left the steel bolts totally serviceable.
IMO: The 2k#-rated Alcan spring-packs (or similar 5-spring packs) pair better with the 3.5k# Dexters than the OEM 4 spring-packs...
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Tail lights came out *****'n! = ( Bravo, India, tango, Charlie, hotel, ', November) NICELY Done... Bravo Zulu, brother!
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We've had up to 5 Beemers in the stall at one point, D used to ride too. We had an '06 R1150GS ADV (Alpine white/blue) and '08 650GS Thumper for D. We still have the '84 R90/6 (highly modified)...
11 hours ago, Patriot said:Looks like a custom Sargent seat too.
Correct-a-mundo!
...so, we're down to only 2 scooters at this point. 🥲
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Got some "Box Envy" going on over here... HA!
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3 hours ago, Geronimo John said:
Nice ride Max!
It's called the Kraken! '13 K1600GT - goes the speed of heat in a heartbeat!
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7 hours ago, Patriot said:
It’s hard to believe the Rally starts a month from today.
Safe travels everyone!
Tempus fugit, brother!
Looking forward to meeting all y'all at the Owner's Rally... Safe travels, ALL!
Cheers!
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I thought the MP2 has an internal ATS, but could be mistaken...
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17 hours ago, rideadeuce said:
Turned on inverter... Microwave works nothing els. AC plugged in... nothing. Oh well, had fun installing the hardware and attempting electrical.
Hey, Mike:
Just a thought which has worked for us on several occasions with some of our Victron components - try giving the boys at Battleborn Batteries in Reno, NV a shout.
They are an authorized Victron dealer and are well accustomed to helping out DIY'ers. We've called them many times and have always got a solution to our issues. They're very patient and will walk you through a troubleshooting process to get that AC operating with the MP2.
Keep us posted as you go through the troubleshooting as we're interested in doing the same MP2 mod after our 2,000w Xantrax fails.
Good luck!
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54 minutes ago, Dennis and Melissa said:
Another good Andersen day. Took two tries. I'm calling that a win.
In other news:
1) After yesterday's spectacular hike on the cliff trail, I drove 10 miles through Del Water Gap with my tailgate down.
But NOTHING fell out. This is the first plus from our dramatic overpacking. Things are so crammed in there I don't even need the tailgate! 😏
2) We got a drawer stuck. I was able to slide a ladle in, push down on the offending dish, and get it to open. But this is the second time I wish I knew how to remove the drawers. Now that we have wifi, I'll go take a peek in Oliver U.
3) 4 days in Worthington State Park with no hookups, we used half our fresh water, half our grey tank (of course), maybe 1/3 a tank of propane, and left with 50% charge in our batteries (it was cloudy almost the whole time). That confirms my suspicion that fresh water is what will limit anything we do that approaches boondocking. (And I was using the campground shower. DW, refused cuz it was stinky.) And I now know that our major electric draws (beside the AC) are: jacks, microwave, hair drier, water pump. TV, radio, fridge and lights are almost nothing by comparison.
Excellent situation report - thanks for sharing!
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4 hours ago, jd1923 said:7 hours ago, MAX Burner said:
No idea, but "westbound I-40 near Santa Rosa" you must be back home now!
Right on - back in pocket Thursday afternoon after about 1,875 miles over 9 days. No biggie, like @ScubaRx mentioned- most of that time was hanging out in a cow pasture.
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7 minutes ago, Wandering Sagebrush said:
We limit the load to under 100 pounds.
Good call, brother! 😉
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We were westbound I-40 near Santa Rosa, NM last Thursday around 11am, and spotted an Ollie being towed with a bright red pickup truck TV...
Any ideas who it might have been?
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OK... The lower plexiglas panel still works like a champ, however knucklehead #1, Magnus, AKA -- Houdini the Escape Artist has recently figured out how to unlock the red latch lever, pull the open handle, and push the door open. He can do it in less than a minute - I checked to see if he's grown thumbs. We caught him in the act by monitoring the security camera installed high on forward bulkhead, FYI.
The next modification to the screen door will include another velcro-ed plexi panel covering the door latch area. The slider pops out easily and can be stored in an overhead compartment. We'll see, more later...
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7 hours ago, jd1923 said:
they are not a maintenance item and once set will stay put for years, decades even.
Gotcha, brother! Couldn't imagine one of those 90 lb-foot torqued nuts loosening up...
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5 hours ago, rideandfly said:
Yep, Pre-Flight aircraft inspections have saved my bacon more than once.
Same here, brother!
7 hours ago, Patriot said:All this said it is imperative that owners inspect and maintain ALL areas of their Oliver. Olivers are extremely well engineered and well built in my owner experience.
Couldn't agree more, David!
We should all invest in something like one of these unless already owned...
...just one last blow to the horse! HA!
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Anyone have a MaxxAir model number for main cabin fan for a '19 E2?
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
@nrvale0: Once you receive your new board, please post your R&R efforts with pix for other owners to learn from. We replaced one in a previous camper years ago - it's tedious but by no means difficult. You'll be fine, good luck...
OBTW: It would be helpful to add your Oliver Hull #, type (LE 1 or LE 2), TV model and year to your address block. It's better having this info for responders to forward you more accurate information to your questions/concerns.
Cheers!