Steph and Dud B

That would work with a relay, too. They're usually plug-in relays under the hood.

I believe this is the paint on version: https://a.co/d/36fqgVe

Some vehicles have a fuse, others a relay tied to the ignition circuit. I always unplug the trailer connector from the truck if we spend the night hitched. Just in case.

This summer our large Maxxair fan started randomly powering up on its own. Google says there's a known problem with condensation or moisture on the circuit board causing this but that seems unlikely because it was happening inside the garage with the trailer windows open, so the was no temperature differential between the trailer and the air. It happened again this morning so I pulled the fan apart. (Fun fact: Oliver caulks the trim ring to the ceiling.) The circuit board was perfectly dry and seemed fine except there was a spiders nest on it. I removed the spiders, blew the board clean, and reseated all the electrical connectors. Time will tell if that solved the problem. Has anybody else had a problem with their fan powering up on its own?

Welcome to the group!

Yes Weird. So we're looking for a large parasitic draw only when the trailer is plugged into the truck? Things that come to mind: a short in the trailer somewhere, a problem with the trailer brake system, and a long shot. You have the lithium system and lithiums are very good at taking a charge. If your lithium batteries are at a lower voltage than your vehicle battery and IF, somehow, the two systems were connected, your truck battery could be trying to charge your lithiums. But, that's a real long shot, especially if this is a new problem you haven't seen before and you haven't made any changes to the electrical system. One way to find out. With the trailer disconnected, check for 12V on the trailer's Aux 12v Power pin. It shouldn't be there with the lithium package.

Does the truck start fine when not towing?

I would prefer an induction stovetop with the lithium power packages...

We just replaced ours, 2 years before its expiration date, because of false alarms. It appears to have become hypersensitive and was alarming because of errant exhaust fumes coming from the Norcold fridge. 2 problems there. I sealed the large gap at the top of the lower fridge access panel with metal tape (discussed in another thread) and then I replaced the detector with a new one. I did the same as @John Dorrer, using Wago connectors to make the next replacement easier.

For us, the advantage of double pane isn't temperature control, it's noise reduction. They really do help when the guy with the huge Bluetooth speaker sets up next to you. But the bigger problem for me is that those Lippert windows really don't move much air. We never really felt a breeze in our old trailer. That said, they're better in the rain. For functionality, I'd like to have just one swing out window for use on rainy days. I know some of the other fiberglass trailers do that with the rear window.

According to the Lippert sales brochure those windows are "Available with single-glazed and dual-glazed panels." I hope Oliver is choosing double pane. Also, as I recall, there was a hack involving drilling out a rivet that would allow those windows to open further.

Not the Euro-style I was expecting. We had these on a previous trailer. Not much airflow. I wouldn't replace all my windows with these but might do just the one over the dinette for airflow on rainy days. Are they double pane?

We use the built-in audio quite a bit. When we stream video to the TV we use the ARC channel to put the audio on the speakers. We also like to find local FM stations, especially the little independent ones, that have things like farm reports and swap meets. If Steph sleeps in, I use the A/B speaker selector to choose only the front speakers. I have music on a flash drive in the Furrion head as well and, once in a while, we'll break out a DVD.

Hard to be sure, but it looks like the overhead speakers are gone. We like the old sound system for music and videos. I'm glad the swing out windows are here, but they usually have integrated shades/screens in other RVs. Those bulgy shades look sketchy.

Yep, familiar with them. Didn't know they were doing composite frames, though. I've been inside a couple of their trailers before, wasn't too impressed. Very small, but it looks like they've upped their game with a 22 footer now. Interesting. Surprised it's a single axle!

Interesting. What's the new company with the CF frames?

This is NOT Oliver factory equipment. Oliver uses a molded plug/cable combination like Airstream, and no caulk. Sounds to me like your trailer has an aftermarket replacement plug on it, similar to this one: https://a.co/d/hD8H9JV If you disassemble that Pollak plug you'll probably find screw terminals inside. The one for the brake wire may be loose or corroded.

Apologies if my comment was taken the wrong way. My point is, electric brake problems are fairly common on all towed RVs. We've had 4 trailers and among them have had: brake wires damaged inside the axle tubes (a Dexter problem), loose ground wire to the frame (a factory problem), failed adjuster spring (a Dexter problem), failed 7 pin plug (wear and tear). They can come from the factory faulty or be fine for 5 years, then fail. It's just the nature of the beast. And, if you look through my previous posts, you'll see I'm anything but an Oliver fan-boy. I'm just saying this is a common problem across all brands. Hopefully, you'll have a resolution soon.

To be fair, this is not an exclusively Oliver problem, nor are Airstreams immune from issues like this. 7 pin connectors, in particular, often have problems due to corrosion and wear and tear. One preventative tip: store the plug upright with the cable hanging down from a water resistant mount like this: https://a.co/d/aJVOMmq Ours is mounted to the storage tray. This prevents water from wicking its way down the cable into the internal connections in the plug.

Seems like sound advice. Did he shut off the solar disconnect switch to remove the panels? Did a solar charge controller setting get changed? Victron or Zamp?

That makes sense, it needs to complete the circuit. However if the ground connection from the truck was faulty, I'd expect @BoondockingAirstream to have other problems, like intermittent running lights, too. With him reporting the breakaway system working properly it seems most of the trailer brake wiring is intact.

The brakes are grounded to the trailer frame, not through the truck connector. This is so they will still work via the breakaway switch without the truck. That makes the blue wire from the truck the likely suspect, since the breakaway does still activate the brakes. My money is still on the connector itself.

You definitely need the brakes working. You're not legal without them. I have read somewhere about some trucks having a problem with some trailers. Found this online: "Ford vehicles, particularly certain F-150 and Super Duty models, have experienced issues with their factory-installed trailer brake controllers. These problems can range from the trailer brakes not engaging at all, to intermittent connection problems, or even the trailer brakes applying unexpectedly and forcefully. A common cause is a software glitch within the integrated trailer brake control module, which can prevent the controller from correctly detecting a trailer or properly applying the brakes. " See if you can borrow someone else's truck to see if the problem persists. Another likely failure point is the 7 way plug on the trailer. Those contacts can become spread out and/or corroded. Look inside the plug and inspect the brake contacts with a flashlight. If they're corroded, a temporary fix can be using a thin file, emory board, or screwdriver blade to scrape the contacts clean. If they seem spread out, use a small screw driver or hook to bend them back inward a bit. These would be temporary fixes. If your plug is shot, it's easy to replace. Disconnect the trailer batteries before you start because the 12v Power lead is hot and then follow this wiring diagram to install a new plug.

What speaker?

They must work, then.