Steph and Dud B

That's a feature, not a bug. Built in sauna/clothes dryer.

The breakaway switch and battery are required, but not the charging. I had a car carrier trailer that only had a small sealed LA battery for the breakaway system, similar to one you'd find in commercial burglar alarm cabinets. The battery wasn't connected to the TV charging line. (Oddly, that line was used, but only for the interior lights.)

While we're taking about jacking, has anyone else experienced: using the official Oliver jacking point forward of the wheels lifts that entire side of the trailer? Both wheels come off the ground. Apparently that's the balance point on our trailer.

We have the Trailer-Aid Plus ramp, a bottle jack, some planks, and some Lynx Leveler blocks. The ramp, planks, and blocks are in the truck, the bottle jack is in the trailer closet. We also have a star wrench, impact wrench, and torque limiting extensions in the truck.

Note I'm not talking about my mileage though... 😕

We have the old 6.0 GMC gasser and 4.10 rear axle in our 3500. It handles our LE2 easily.

@STEVEnBETTY, it was wise to talk to an attorney and brave to admit you were wrong. We've been towing various trailers for 26 years. In our first year we had a combination that was marginal, within the specs but just barely. It was fine for many miles. Then one day, in the middle of a bridge, we got sway. Bad sway, all of a sudden. There's no question in your mind whatsoever when that oscillation starts. We were lucky not to wreck. Never towed with that setup again. It's not just the hitch. It's the brakes, transmission, weight of the TV, and wheelbase. They all factor in. For us now, better to size up and hope to never experience sway again.

LOL. We had a rental Class C motorhome that was missing all of those grommets. We didn't go 10 miles before Steph made me pull over. She couldn't stand the rattling any more. She cut up a kitchen sponge and used pieces of it as grommets. Actually lasted that way for 1200 miles.

The only thing on that list that I'd be willing to pay someone to do is recaulk any roof fittings that need it, and that's only because I find getting all the way up on top of the roof awkward and I'm terrible at caulking neatly.

I've never had them do the routine maintenance. Have had mixed luck with their repair services. One time, under warranty, they did very shabby work, failing to complete tasks they claimed they had completed. This included leaving a loose nut rattling around inside a brake drum. More recently (this spring), they handled a minor fiberglass repair quickly and efficiently. So, a gamble. Unless you live very close to the Oliver plant I would recommend doing your own routine maintenance if you can, or find a local RV shop you trust. Most Oliver components are fairly standard RV gear.

Good point. I believe running on propane derates the generator by a bit. With a 3400W unit, maybe enough to cause an overload in this situation, but I was wondering why it wasn't tripping the breaker on the generator. Now, after @Snackchaser's excellent explanation I'm wondering if an unbonded generator is preventing the generator's built in breaker from tripping, causing the Oliver's internal breaker to trip instead. However, the Progressive power protection should not have let him connect an unbonded generator in the first place, so maybe the generator's breaker is faulty?

Even though the Predators are well-regarded I would be reluctant to replace a Honda with one. Honda is the gold standard for portable generators. (We're still using our 16 year old Eu2000i.) Can your Honda be repaired, or is this a capacity problem?

20 years ago we took the 101 from Cape Disappointment State Park in WA to Petaluma, CA towing a 26' travel trailer without any problems. It was a beautiful drive back then.

I have a similar set of keys on my RV key ring. One morning I left it on the bumper after hitching up and drove away, using my Truck keyring. Retracing my steps I found what was left of them in the road, run over by a hundred cars. Surprisingly the only ones beyond repair were the ring itself (pretzel), the key fob to my bicycle alarm (completely disintegrated), the round hitch pin key, and the trailer door key. Fortunately I had spares for the hitch and door.

We've seen lots of awnings trashed by wind, usually when left out while the owners were away somewhere. We never leave our awnings out when we're not present and alert, even overnight. That said, we love our dual electric awnings. When camping in hot weather, I try to park the trailer in a North-South orientation so we have maximum shade on the trailer body. In the morning I deploy the East side awning, then the West side in the afternoon. Works really well.

Is there a significant difference between Gen 1 and Gen 2?

The trailer dry weight posted online is for a fully stripped down LE2 with no options. As delivered, ours actually weighed 5565 pounds. That's still without water and gear. Also, subtract the weight of any passengers and any cargo in your truck from the Tundra's tow rating. You'll probably be over the limit when set up to camp. I wouldn't do it, personally, and I'm positive you wouldn't enjoy it if you were towing in the mountains. I've towed trailers on the edge of my truck's limit before. It struggled on step grades and I eventually had to replace the torque converter.

Try letting the hot and cold water run for a while. Sometimes when switching from city water to pump we get air in the lines with the same symptoms: faint pump noise and very little flow. If we let both the hot and cold run a bit, usually via the outside shower, it clears up.

Try contacting Parts at Oliver. They can probably answer your question or even sell you one.

Pretty common with these RV doors.

It was always up and locked when it happened. The cause was the cheap mounting bracket OTT used. When tightened during installation, the mounting bracket ears warped, pulling away from the back of the TV and stressing the plastic. We were still under warranty so OTT sent us another TV. Then I put the mounting bracket into a vice and bent it forward a bit so, when tightened, it sat flat against the back of the TV. Been fine ever since.

That's the way to do it. We try to plan routes with Google-estimated 4 hour travel times or less. Much more relaxing.

Hello to the Elite 1 in Hammonasset State Park. We're on the other side in Area 1, T11. Feel free to stop by!

The Girard awnings on our 2022 are not supposed to be left open in the rain. Girard explicitly states not to have them partially open in the rain, either. I would prefer swing out acrylic windows for sure.

Reviving this thread. Now that we're doing more shoulder season camping and using the Oliver more while closed up we're getting more frequent propane/CO alarms from the sensor below the dinette. Like @johnwen above I can feel cold air entering around the top of the fridge and we have the same large gap above the fridge behind the top service vent that he has. I can look straight in and see the back of the fridge control panel from outside the trailer. I'm convinced we're getting exhaust gasses blown in that way and intend to seal it up with aluminum tape unless anyone can give me a good reason air should be allowed to flow through there.