Steph and Dud B

Now, a new mod idea: a remote control in the truck for the trailer thermostat so you don't have to pull over to turn the A/C on. Electrical wizards commence...

Perfectly do-able as long as you have the battery capacity to spare.

Yes, it would have to be adjustable, even for a specific trailer. If the ground is uneven, with a bump in between the two tires, a chock designed to fit snugly on flat pavement wouldn't fit between the tires anymore.

That's what we do. We always turn the campground power post breaker off before connecting or disconnecting from the trailer. It's more important while disconnecting, to prevent drawing an arc from your plug blades to the outlet terminals as you remove the plug. We don't turn off the trailer's main breaker when connecting to the generator because there's a delay before the transfer switch kicks in anyway, but we do turn it off before disconnecting from the generator.

Wow!

We do pretty well with just our cell phone hotspots and streaming in most places. The newer trailers come with a smart TV.

Sounds like a loose connection. That's why it's intermittent. There's really no user error option here, it should literally be plug and play. I'd start by checking the coax cable connection on the back of the TV. Coax connectors should be more then finger tight. The outer "nut" is the ground connection. Use a small wrench or pliers to give them just a little torque. Next, take the "booster plate" off the wall in the attic above the TV, should be just 2 screws, and make sure the cables behind it are tight. After that I'd check behind the connector on the outside of the trailer.

What's wrong with the Norcold?

Now that you mention it, ours doesn't have Teflon tape there, either. Anyone have Teflon tape at the connection between the pump and its filter?

We do. I use this: 3inOne Trailer Hitch Gel Lube https://a.co/d/7Kz5pKB

We've had this problem repeatedly in the exact scenario you describe. The "solution" was to open the hot and cold outside shower until the air purged from the system, which could take a couple of minutes. (Don't worry to much about the 2 minute limit. I once accidentally left the pump on for 20 minutes after draining the water from an old trailer and there was no harm done. 3 or 4 minutes is probably OK.) After that we'd be fine until the next stop when we'd have to do it again. Seemed like an air leak on the pump intake side, but I couldn't find one. I recently replaced the pump. One thing I noticed while doing that was that the pump filter didn't seem very tightly screwed onto the pump, something I had never thought to check, so look at that. Now the new pump is in. We'll see what happens next. Also, can you include your Oliver model and model year in your signature line? Makes it easier to help people sometimes.

You haven't, by any chance, seen a girl in a flatbed Ford, have you?

That's a feature, not a bug. Built in sauna/clothes dryer.

The breakaway switch and battery are required, but not the charging. I had a car carrier trailer that only had a small sealed LA battery for the breakaway system, similar to one you'd find in commercial burglar alarm cabinets. The battery wasn't connected to the TV charging line. (Oddly, that line was used, but only for the interior lights.)

While we're taking about jacking, has anyone else experienced: using the official Oliver jacking point forward of the wheels lifts that entire side of the trailer? Both wheels come off the ground. Apparently that's the balance point on our trailer.

We have the Trailer-Aid Plus ramp, a bottle jack, some planks, and some Lynx Leveler blocks. The ramp, planks, and blocks are in the truck, the bottle jack is in the trailer closet. We also have a star wrench, impact wrench, and torque limiting extensions in the truck.

Note I'm not talking about my mileage though... 😕

We have the old 6.0 GMC gasser and 4.10 rear axle in our 3500. It handles our LE2 easily.

@STEVEnBETTY, it was wise to talk to an attorney and brave to admit you were wrong. We've been towing various trailers for 26 years. In our first year we had a combination that was marginal, within the specs but just barely. It was fine for many miles. Then one day, in the middle of a bridge, we got sway. Bad sway, all of a sudden. There's no question in your mind whatsoever when that oscillation starts. We were lucky not to wreck. Never towed with that setup again. It's not just the hitch. It's the brakes, transmission, weight of the TV, and wheelbase. They all factor in. For us now, better to size up and hope to never experience sway again.

LOL. We had a rental Class C motorhome that was missing all of those grommets. We didn't go 10 miles before Steph made me pull over. She couldn't stand the rattling any more. She cut up a kitchen sponge and used pieces of it as grommets. Actually lasted that way for 1200 miles.

The only thing on that list that I'd be willing to pay someone to do is recaulk any roof fittings that need it, and that's only because I find getting all the way up on top of the roof awkward and I'm terrible at caulking neatly.

I've never had them do the routine maintenance. Have had mixed luck with their repair services. One time, under warranty, they did very shabby work, failing to complete tasks they claimed they had completed. This included leaving a loose nut rattling around inside a brake drum. More recently (this spring), they handled a minor fiberglass repair quickly and efficiently. So, a gamble. Unless you live very close to the Oliver plant I would recommend doing your own routine maintenance if you can, or find a local RV shop you trust. Most Oliver components are fairly standard RV gear.

Good point. I believe running on propane derates the generator by a bit. With a 3400W unit, maybe enough to cause an overload in this situation, but I was wondering why it wasn't tripping the breaker on the generator. Now, after @Snackchaser's excellent explanation I'm wondering if an unbonded generator is preventing the generator's built in breaker from tripping, causing the Oliver's internal breaker to trip instead. However, the Progressive power protection should not have let him connect an unbonded generator in the first place, so maybe the generator's breaker is faulty?

Even though the Predators are well-regarded I would be reluctant to replace a Honda with one. Honda is the gold standard for portable generators. (We're still using our 16 year old Eu2000i.) Can your Honda be repaired, or is this a capacity problem?

20 years ago we took the 101 from Cape Disappointment State Park in WA to Petaluma, CA towing a 26' travel trailer without any problems. It was a beautiful drive back then.