Steph and Dud B

Based on this new info, and your apparent preference for a smaller camper, I'd say a truck camper or Class C. You'd have to look into tow capacities re your gyro trailer.

On our 2022 the shade just clips onto the wall. A firm tug on the bottom to release it, then remove it from the top clips. Snap it back in upside down to have the blackout on the bottom.

This is something I've thought about myself. On the one hand, a great big fifth wheel would have tons of living and storage space, plus the safety and comfort of a full size truck as the TV. Would be ideal for long stays in various places, as would a diesel-pusher Class A motorhome. OTOH, if you wanted to move around a lot, a Class B would be convenient. Park it anywhere. There's a couple on YouTube that does just that. They live full time in a very nice Class B and take it everywhere. (They previously had a Class A and an Airstream. Their channel is called LivinRVision and they discuss the pros/cons of each RV here: https://youtu.be/pH8Wr8nT8kY?si=w2b4HkpHoH6UVzbQ) I don't see the Oliver LE2 as a good full-timer since it has the disadvantages of both: hitching/unhitching, limited storage/living space, too big for small urban parking lots. We seem to have found our sweet spot with Eggcelsior: multi-week stays in state parks with no hookups but decent bathhouses. We can fit in most sites, our lithium setup lasts forever, and the bathhouses keep our tanks happy. I can definitely see doing a month+ on the road, but not full time.

... of comparable size. If the OP wants more space there are options like fifth wheels with lots of room to spread out. Of course, that's a completely different experience than an Oliver.

If you're talking about a stock Oliver with no modifications, I don't think you'll be comfortable. The bed will be tight and you'll need to slouch in the bathroom. But, as evidenced above, everyone's different. You really should see one in person. Lie in the bed, stand in the bathroom. I'm 6'. When we visited @StillGame to see their LE2 the bathroom was almost a dealbreaker for me because my head rubbed on the ceiling. Then they suggested I try it with my shoes off and that worked fine, so we went ahead with the purchase.

Have you tried toggling the master light switch on/off a few times? We've had fiberglass dust get into those switches and cause intermittent problems. If that is the problem, spraying canned air into the switch and applying a shop vac to the switch while exercising it have worked for us.

Our 17" Blackstone measures approx 22x19" with the lid and without the drip tray.

Interesting. There was no factory tape over the levers on my Wago connectors. Maybe they skipped that step on mine?

Romex is household electrical cable, usually white or whitish gray, that contains 3 wires: black, white, bare. Yes, 3 connectors: hot (black wires), neutral (white), ground (bare). They splice the feed line, water heater, and fridge lines together. I put a bend in both Romex just before the connectors and tied the Romex together before the bend with zip ties. This was to prevent cable movement from pulling directly on the connectors. Everything in the junction box. The box is what prevented a possible fire. Electrical tape.

Scary scenario. From what I gather, the man reached under his Anderson leveler to pull it out and the truck/trailer rolled a bit, probably from the play present with the parking pins in an automatic transmission (I know my truck can move an inch or two before the parking pins engage.) This is why you never put your fingers underneath anything that could take a load (tires, jacks, cribbing, etc.). Also why I always walk back to the cab of my truck to verify it's in Park and the brake is set before I lift the trailer off the ball or pull any chocks. In addition, I double check the chocks and leave the safety chains on when I lift the trailer off the ball. I did have a truck/trailer combination start to roll on me once because I forgot to put it in Park. We also once had a "toad" car behind a neighbor's motorhome roll across the road and hit our trailer when they forgot to put it in park before unhitching. Large vehicles moving unexpectedly is very scary. https://blog.campingworld.com/lifestyle-activities/you-need-to-hear-this-story-before-you-go-boondocking-all-alone/

Welcome.

Our other trailers all had separate breakers for the fridge and water heater. This 20 amp circuit was a surprise.

Here's the link to our thread about this failure: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/7188-120v-wiring-failure-good-news-on-fridge-outlet/

This happened to us. In our 2022, a single 20 amp breaker runs both the fridge and the Suburban water heater. There was a junction box on the side of the water heater (under the bed) and I found one of the wire connectors inside melted, leaving the circuit to the fridge dead. It looked like the connector wiggled loose and overheated. After replacing the connector, I added some zip ties to minimize movement of the wiring during travel.

Another thing to try: In our previous SOB trailers I could often remove the yellowing on white plastic parts with black steak remover spray. Might be worth a try first.

@NomadLife, if all the above do not work (the valve under the dinette is definitely open but the tank still doesn't drain) you may have a "black pyramid." This is when solid wastes block the outflow pipe. The solution is usually unpleasant: running a snake up the drain to dislodge the blockage, thus releasing all that black tank goodness back down the pipe at you. 🤮 For reference, to prevent black pyramids always include plenty of water when you flush solids (a full bowl), use RV toilet paper sparingly, no wipes/feminine products in the toilet, only dump when the tank is at least 2/3 full, and never leave the black tank valve open when at a campsite with sewer. You want lots of fluid to move the solids down the pipe. Otherwise, they can accumulate in the tank and solidify.

Looks like a great trip. Curious: where do you put the litter box?

If you're sure it's not sewer or propane, another suspect could be the gray tank vent. Gray tanks can smell as bad as black, believe it or not. Your vent stack could be disconnected somewhere. Maybe someone else can describe the routing of the vent pipe.

I saw some strange behavior with the Lithionics-reported SOC while our trailer was stored indoors in a similar situation, with some trickle from the solar due to interior lights in the garage, etc. The two batteries were "discharging" at very different rates based on the reported SOC. Importantly , the actual voltages were the same. I tried discharging them, then recharging to full to reset the SOC calibration with no luck. Then I tried turning solar off with no change. However, when I pulled the trailer out of the garage and got regular solar running again everything went back to normal. I have no reasonable explanation, but I don't think you can trust the SOC reading too much when it's stored this way. Voltage is a better indicator. @Dave and Kimberly, how do the voltages in this chart for 12v LifePo4 batteries compare to your batteries' voltages and the SOC being reported?

To answer the OP's question, no comparison. Oliver uses much better materials in their construction. Aluminum frame vs steel, fiberglass walls vs aluminum. Double pane windows. It goes on from there.

I wonder if the safety override still works for those of us with lithium batteries? The 12V feed from the truck isn't connected to the batteries. Is it still connected to the awning? Will have to try it sometime.

We had OTT install the RV Lock on Eggcelsior. It's ok, but the first one failed after water got into it due to an install error by OTT. Before our Oliver we had this lock on two trailers: LATCH.IT Keyless Door Lock for RV Sealed Electricals Unlike Competitors! | Fits 2.75"x3.75" Lock Hole https://a.co/d/1lhYkU0 I think the LATCH.IT lock was superior to the RV Lock installed by Oliver, with a better build quality. Both are easy installs.

Congratulations. 30 is a big one!

Natural Bridge, VA might be a nice stop on your way north, too.

The neutral bonding plug goes in one of the 15A standard "household" outlets on your generator and connects the ground lead (the round third prong on the plug) to the neutral lead (one of the flat prongs). Without going into details, this is the setup the EMS expects to see, but most portable generators are not set up that way. Hence the plug.