topgun2
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Posts posted by topgun2
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Concrats to you guys for filling it in.
Now, a couple of oars and, don't forget to plug those scupper holes you are well on your way to getting all of the States.😁
Bill
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Got some exterior and interior pics of Jim Oliver's Ollie today.
But, I can't post them until I get home early next week.
Bill
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Winston and Brandi did a fabulous job of restoring Jelly Bean. If you ever see it don't be afraid to ask for a tour.
Jim Oliver's Beast presently sits in the Oliver Service area. However, Scott Oliver has plans to move it to his home in the near future.
Hopefully I can get some additional pics of it this afternoon.
Bill
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Life on the road sometimes requires stopping to do laundry!
Here in Cody, WY the best laundry is the Cody Laundromat.
Now that this chore is done and restocking at Walmart is done the regularly scheduled activity of fishing at a higher altitude is to be resumed.
A special hello to the Ollie II that was headed east towards Cody last week after they left Yellowstone National.
Bill
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Perhaps even more important is the load capacity - how much stuff can it carry?
Find the sticker inside the driver's door jam and then add up your hitch weight, plus all the other things you carry (like people, dogs, equipment in the bed, etc.) and compare those two numbers. Most 1/2 trucks have a "limited" capacity in this regard.
Bill
Posted from a sage brush field outside Meeteetse, WY
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Where else would Ollie be but at Cracker Barrel for the night?
Not the best CB location ever, but, the price is right.
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When you say, "
1 hour ago, ZLarryb said:I have tried two of the 90 degree fittings so I know it must be me.
does that mean that you have replaced the fitting or simply that you tried another zerk that was already in place?
It is possible that the zerk in question was installed improperly - these must be installed relative to the bolt such that they will accept grease. If this is the case then there isn't much you can do except for taking the bolt out and installing it the correct way.
However, it is more likely that there is something going on with the way you are trying to connect the grease gun to the zerk. If you have a small "punch" or nail set you could gently press on the little "ball" that is in the end of the zerk to make sure that it will depress under pressure. Sometimes these little ball do get "stuck".
Of course I'm also assuming that you were able to get grease into the other zerks on the Ollie?
Bill
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Sorry but I'm in the middle of preparing to leave for the Rockies.
However - the reason for the switch is so that you can turn the fan off if the slight noise it emits bothers you while trying to sleep.
Both Mossemi and I have replaced the original fan due to bearing failures in the fan and Mossemi also replaced the thermal switch.
Hope this helps at least a little.
Bill
p.s. there are posts here on the Forum about both of these repairs.
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Spy any moose down there in the willows?
How are the bugs?
Bill
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Have you tried one of THESE fridge fans?
I've used one of these for years due to the fact that our RV fridges are subject to a bunch of factors that simply are not present with our fridges at home. The fan helps to more evenly distribute the air and, thus, evens out the temps throughout the fridge.
Bill
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Two years ago I installed the "Gas Stop" devices on both my propane tanks. Given that my Oliver was 7 years old at the time I thought that it would also be prudent to install new "pig tail" propane hoses at the same time.
At the end of the camping season last year I suspected that I had a small propane leak but since I was placing the Ollie into storage for the winter I didn't investigate the possible leak any further. However, I did purchase a propane leak detector - exactly like the one that Rivernerd mention in THIS THREAD.
While attending the Annual Owner's Rally this year, my suspicion of the leak returned. So, today was the day to get serious about finding it.
After getting the propane tanks in place and attaching the pig tails I opened the valve on what I thought was the offending tank. Sure enough, I not only smelled it but I even heard it! Obviously, the main brass fitting at the end of the pig tail was the problem (i.e. the fitting that screws directly into the regulator). So, I took that apart, cleaned it up, wrapped yellow Teflon gas specific tape on it and reinstalled.
That solved the main smell and certainly the "hissing" issues, but, I still thought that I could smell a leak. Out comes the "bubble test" (i.e. a little dish soap in water sprayed onto the offending area and look for bubbles). Well, sure enough, there was a small leak in the brass reducer between the end of the pig tail and the main brass fitting that I had just repaired.
OK, take it apart again, new tape all around, reinstall and using the "bubble test" I thought I had this issue nailed. Sure enough - no bubbles!
Great, but maybe my nose was just getting to used to that wonderful propane smell. Maybe I was just imagining it - surely I had fixed everything that there was to be fixed AND there were no bubbles.
Just to be sure I used the "test" feature on the Gas Stop devices. Yep - the needle in the little gauge was slowly dropping. I bubble tested again but had the same test result - no bubbles. Being a bit slow witted it was only at this point that I remember my purchase of the propane leak detector (thanks again Rivernerd).
I got it out, read the directions and proceeded to "sniff". My repaired connections didn't set off any alarms. But, the connection from the pig tail to the large knob that screws onto the propane tank gave off a "faint" reading (actually a beeping noise on the detector). Sure enough - even though this was a "factory" installed item and I've never had one of these leak in over 25 years of dealing with propane tanks and pig tails, this was the final source of the leaking. I'm still surprised that the "bubble test" didn't show this leak but the "Smart Sensor" picked it up right away.
There are a number of these types of sensors available currently on Amazon - both models that are priced higher and lower than the Smart Sensor (HERE). But, as Rivernerd said, "Not only is it worth the peace of mind, but even if only used once, it is less expensive than a motel stay!".
Bill
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Highly recommend you try the plastic hack that Seadawg mentioned - you simply will not believe how much easier it is getting the foam back inside the covers.
Bill
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OK - this will not explain the 2.3 - but - did you pull the fuse on the propane detector?
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Chris -
I'm so sorry but I don't presently have the time to study your drawings - but - the thought occurs to me that there is some truth in what jd1923 has to say about the shunt in the original Oliver setup.
As far as I can tell mine (hull #117) will capture everything EXCEPT for the loads placed through the inverter - the 4/0 positive and negative wires go directly from the batteries to the inverter and, thus, bypass the inverter. This really is no problem for me in that I seldom use the inverter and, thus, virtually never have it on. Could this be the source of your -2.3 amps?
Bill
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2 hours ago, Dave and Kimberly said:
I should mention that everything works perfectly fine when we are using the camper and this is only a problem when home and NOT USING the camper.
OK then - the obvious answer is that you should be on the road. Problem solved!😇
Bill
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Is it just me or is there something extremely satisfying about that sound of yet another mosquito being fried when hit with the "tennis racquet"?
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Each year prior to heading out to the Rockies to fish for a couple of months, I treat several changes of cloths with THIS STUFF.
It lasts through washings and helps keep the bugs off for about 6 weeks.
Have a great trip!
Bill
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1 hour ago, jd1923 said:
We want to really clean the floor but not sure what to use. Wonder if anybody has replaced their flooring in an Oliver?
You can use anything that one might use on any vinyl flooring. I've used - Simple Green, Ajax, 409, Mr. Clean, Fantastic, Awesome Orange, Spic & Span, etc..
Yes, I do know that at least one person replaced the flooring but I don't remember exactly who that was. If I were going to do it, I'd ask Oliver Service for suggestions regarding what to use for removing the old glue.
Good luck.
Bill
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JDB -
I understand your frustration - its simply no fun trying to chase down what is most likely a "simple" issue. However, electrical problems are very difficult to pinpoint via phone and/or internet. Basically the procedure is a process of elimination and tracing the most likely flows of current and this is difficult to do without the proper equipment.
Do you know of a local electrician that you trust (or even a friend that knows a bit about electricity)? Or, a local RV tech that you trust? Either of these should be able to get to the bottom of the issue reasonably quickly, have the tools needed to test for grounds and/or continuity, and that would save you a long drive.
As jd1923 points out, your issue is most likely with the grounds that these three circuits share. And, my bet is that the location is at or near those three switches on your Master Panel.
As far as liability is concerned - if you are not plugged into shore power, there is not much in or near these switches that can "kill" you. Yes, a bite on your flesh and/or the flash of a short will get you attention and it is a tough learning lesson that can be avoided with knowledge and proper equipment.
Stick with it - you'll get to the bottom of the problem.
Bill
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"Organize it and they will come".
Good job!
Bill
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Is THAT what they mean by - "Cowboy Up"?
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OK - you asked for it:
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Molly is one of the very few Ollies that have been "wrapped".
Looks great.
Bill
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Wanting to purchase a nice Orbital buffer for use on the Ollie gelcoat.
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
E6000 is useful for all sorts of stuff in and out of the Ollie. I always have a small tube of it with me while on the road.
Its available (of course) on Amazon, WalMart, Ace and (probably Lowes and Home Depot too.
Bill
E6000 on Amazon