topgun2

I'd guess that if you check the details, you will find that a weight distribution hitch will be required by the manufacturer when towing an Ollie II. Also, remember that the hitch weight gets deducted from that 1547 and with most Elite II's that will mean something like 600 pounds which will leave you with under 900 pounds. So, you will need to be a bit careful on that weight. Bill

HERE'S another YouTube observation on the subject - start the Battle Born segment at 2:27 of the video. Bill

Gary - There is already a three page thread on this subject. Try CLICKING HERE to start reading. Bill

Have you tested this Silence/Test switch? Does it really Silence the alarm for more than a couple of minutes? If so, how do you turn it back "on"? Bill

This is NOT the greatest pic below of the frame I made for a switch and the place that the frame was located - just inboard of the detector under the dinette seat. I used two part epoxy and left it dry overnight and it has been in that spot for the past 7 years. Make special note of ADKCamper's note above about "flagging" this or any other safety unit when you have it out of service. Bill 2 inch square bracket for propane switch.jfif

Yet another reason you got that Ollie! 😀

Of course the answer to the first question depends on a number of factors - how cloudy is it and for how long is it cloudy? How depleted are the batteries to start with? I replaced my lead acid batteries (400 ah) with two 230 ah li batteries thus just about doubling the usable capacity of energy. But, my actual usage has stayed just about the same as it was before the upgrade. So, my standard Oliver solar panels have absolutely no problem fully charging these new batteries to 100% every day AND I have plenty of capacity in the event there are several days of no sun. Asking about brands of batteries is akin to asking about brands of truck, cars, etc.. To each his own. For what its worth, I purchased LiTimes and have had zero problems. However, I understand that Epoch is making a nice battery and, of course, there is always the higher end Battle Borns. Check to make sure that the manufacturer is using #1/grade A cells and then it is a matter of the features that you might want/need (i.e. bluetooth, heated, on/off switches, etc.). I'd wait on the DC to DC charging until you have the experience with the new batteries. If you actually need the extra charging then you can add it later. Bill

AI has the following to say on the subject of AGM battery life: "AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) batteries generally last 3 to 8 years, but the lifespan depends heavily on usage: expect 3-5 years for deep cycling (RVs, marine) and 5-8 years for standby/float (backup power), with high-quality units potentially lasting longer. Key factors include temperature, quality, depth of discharge (how deeply it's drained), and charging practices, with extreme heat or shallow discharges shortening life, while proper maintenance extends it. " Therefore, as Mike says above - you are probably at or very near the end of life for your current batteries. Bill

Ditto for me. Relatively speaking, our installs are at the lower end of the scale of difficulty. Without additional monitoring devices (think Victron stuff here) there is some requirement for having a bit of experience with energy usage. Speaking for myself - while using my "old" lead acid batteries I never had an occasion where the batter charge of those was below 83% FULL! So, when I got my LiTime Li batteries that had even more amp hours of capacity AND they could be discharged much lower than the 50% limit of the old lead acid batteries, I found myself virtually bathing in a wonderful supply of energy. I should note here that I VERY RARELY have a need for air conditioning and I am VERY conservative of even using the furnace (think blower motor using electricity here). But, if you are in a similar boat, you too can do this conversation VERY easily. But, if you want/need more bells and whistles then adding what you need is really not too difficult. Bill

With shop rates getting to the point of about $150.00 per hour, you are probably a touch low on the $50. But around $75 per wheel would probably get it done. Bill p.s. while just about any boat or regular trailer can do this job - I'd ask around a bit to get some recommendations. Bearing service is NOT difficult. But, if it is not done properly it can cause you some real headaches down that lonesome road.

Or--- How about this for a little back ground/elevator music? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JC3h7z83OeI&list=PLc9188Xa99jH0yPXAQzo4pDbbilSfFWGE&index=4

Gene - There are a bunch of posts here on the Forum about anything ranging from minimal (me) to substantial Li overhauls that were done by anything ranging from rank novices (me) to certified professional outfits. Have fun reading! Bill

Very interesting and different. Perhaps someone out there in Ollie land has done something similar, but, I've never seen anything close. Sure does look like a very nice job. Any idea of what the ceramic guy used for the coating? Bill

You might want to ask Spectrum for a "coverage map of the USA" and see what it tells you. Or, simply go straight to the horse like I just did at: https://www.spectrum.com/mobile/coverage-map. Bill

Not that I know of (assuming that you mean "authorized/recommended by Oliver". However, if it were me, I'd start by asking any friends in the area, the campground hosts/owners and/or other campers in the area. Bill

Have you tried a "mobile tech"? Bill

And the fact that Michelin stopped making a tire in the size needed for the Oliver. Bill

Pat - It does seem likely that the notes you refer to have to do with the brake system. Primarily this is because I assume that it is a "mis-type" and should read "liner gone" and that the only "electromagnet" that exists in the Oliver is the one found in the brake drum. Can we assume that you are also experiencing a lack of trailer braking? Bill

Yes, It is likely that you have "tripped" one (or both of the "breakers" that look exactly like the one in the picture you post right above this post. If either of the two of those are tripped then you should see a little yellow "flag" that will stick out the side of that black plastic. In order to reset it all you have to do is push the little yellow flag back in. Bill

I hate to admit it now - but - I was one of those that thought I could not live without a dry bath. During fairly early discussions with Anita (Oliver Sales) I told her of my concern in this regard. Without missing a beat, she explained to me the relative value of the real estate (i.e. square footage) of the dry bath versus the wet bath. Indeed, Oliver could convert the closet into a dry bath, but what is the value of that closet versus the relatively small amount of time that one actually spends in the bath every day, she said. Having an undergraduate degree in economics this spoke straight to my understanding of the "economics" of the situation and the rest is history. And, as with most things, Anita was right - at least for me. Bill

And - what's "wrong" with "rat fur"? Back in the day when I was first looking at molded fiberglass, I took a look at a Casita. I was fairly impressed with the "oak" cabinet doors until I looked a bit more closely and saw that they were actually "press board" with a decal oak cover. Then I looked at the rat fur, then I looked at the frame, then I looked at the "holes" in the shell that were used to secure the "furniture inside, then I took a look at .....

In case you missed it. Bill https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1-Il-AaOC4

Other than adding a device to change 120 volts to 12 volts, as far as I know you will have to put the (or at least one 12 volt battery back into the Ollie in order to get 12 volts to the water pump (or anything else that runs off 12 volts for that matter). As long as it is charged up, basically any old 12 volt battery will work for your purpose. I always have one or two 12 volt AGM batteries laying around in order to use with a small trolling motor I have. This would be more than adequate to power that water pump. Unfortunately, you are in Pittsburgh and I'm in the mountains of western North Carolina. Good luck! Bill

I don't know if I'm in the minority or not - but - I happen to like the rear jack switches located on the front of my Ollie. Unlike Mike, I found the bubble level that is on the top of the front jack to be virtually useless. So, I installed three small bubble levels on or near the front of the Ollie. All three are right at the "belly" line where the top and bottom shells are joined. The first one is just above the front jack, the second is basically under the bath window and the third near the front door. These levels are much more accurate and sensitive than the one on the front jack and can be observed with a simple step in one direction or the other. I also didn't hurt that they were very inexpensive and are attached with exterior double sided tape. Finally, even though I very seldom use the rear jacks, when I do I use 6x6 blocks under those jacks. This makes positioning easy (in most cases) with one quick look to make sure that the jack and block are properly aliened. Perhaps, the "perfect solution would be to have three way switches so that these switches could be placed in BOTH the front and the rear which would allow for the use in either location depending on the situation. Having thought about this solution, I'm marginally surprised that ScubaRx has not done this type of mod (note that if you ever get a chance to see ALL of the switches that he and Tali have in their Ollie, you will see what I mean here). Bill