topgun2
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Posts posted by topgun2
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I forgot about those marker lights on the nose. Does that make it more "balanced with the rear "Oliver third brake light"? 🤪
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2 hours ago, Ronbrink said:
I opted for the skimpy two-piece so as not to be totally naked and unnecessarily “bothered”!
Sure - but you look sooooo good in that "skimpy two-piece!
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42 minutes ago, Wandering Sagebrush said:
Unfortunately, ours is different. The hand piece has the female side.
You might want to take a look HERE - there are a number of these shower heads that have the same kind of shut-off valve as the original plus several that have a female fitting and extra hose or even some with different spray heads. But, be careful that anything different will still fit inside the compartment without causing you additional problems.
Bill
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2 minutes ago, Ronbrink said:
My 2020 wasn’t ordered totally naked, I did opt for the rear-side label
Initially I ordered mine also without the side label. But, Anita talked me out of that and I'm glad she did. Her reasoning was that if there was something on the Oliver that told people what it was, the number of times I would be "bothered" in a campground or out on the road would be dramatically reduced. I think that she was correct - as she is with most things. 😁
Bill
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15 hours ago, jd1923 said:
I did notice looking at the Texas Rally pics that 5-6 hulls had no front logo. The big round white front looks bare without one!
I actually ordered Twist WITHOUT the nose logo. My reasoning was that this area is a target for bugs. Since gelcoat is easier to clean than a decal, I just figured that it would save me a bunch of time and trouble over the years I planned to keep my Ollie. So far, I still feel that I was correct.
Bill
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14 hours ago, CRM said:
There are pics of the new models on the Oliver FB page and the ones I saw do have the front Oliver logo.
At this point I do not know if these are still produced in house or are sourced externally. But, (hopefully) I'll have more answers to all of these questions soon.
Bill
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15 hours ago, CRM said:
I had already removed my side stripes and I like the look better without them.
You're not alone and (as I mentioned) this was one of the reasons that Oliver stopped supplying them. Other reasons were that the side stripes were difficult to apply properly (and the lady that did that job moved on to other things) and, of course, it saves material costs in both producing them and applying them.
Bill
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6 hours ago, CRM said:
Strange... I was able to buy a full set of decals a couple of years ago.
Yep -
these used to be produced "in house" on a really neat machine. In fact, there is still some unused material that was used in the loft above the Sales area. I wouldn't be surprised that if someone were to make Oliver an offer for this material they would be more than happy to get rid of it (suggest sending Jason Essary a note if your interested). When the decision was made to stop producing the side decals (basically at the suggestion of current owners) much of the materials used were not replaced and the few people that knew how to use that fancy machine went on to other things. Since I've not actually seen the machine is a couple of years, I'm not sure that it still there.
Bill
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In response to another Elite II owner's request for graphics files for the "old" side decals I happened to be with Matt Duncan when we went on a search for these files.
Matt thought that he knew exactly where they were housed - both on the original computer main hard drive and the USB memory stick backup of that hard drive. Unfortunately, BOTH of the file folders for both the USB and hard drive had been erased and replaced by other files. We tried to re-constitute these deleted files without success (after about two hours of trying). Given the nature of the files that replaced the original graphics files, it would appear to me that a somewhat inexperienced employee had done the deed. And, since the "marketing/advertising/video production/rally organizing/printing/etc." department for the travel trailers basically has no full time employees (at this point) there simply wasn't anyone there to watch the "store" or computers or files. Yes, it would be nice to think that files of this and other natures would be housed securely, but, its not exactly easy to get into the area where these files were located.
Now, having said all this - I would think that the artwork for the "nose" and "tail" just might still be around. As I recall, during our search for the "side" decals there was/is still a file or two with the "Oliver Elite II" artwork for the various different font types that have been over the years. I will ask and see if they can be found and report back here. This might take a bit of time, so, please be patient.
EDIT: Any additional information that I obtain will be posted under a new thread such that we don't hijack this thread any longer on this topic.
Bill
p.s. Basically during the search for these side decals and for the hull number plaques is how we discovered that the side decals files had been lost. Also, there were/are only a handful of people that were familiar with all the things that went on in Matt's old department. So, its not surprising (at least to me) that information about these types of things would be somewhat limited.
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On 10/23/2025 at 7:42 PM, trekhard said:
Sometimes it pops down really easily and other times ours gets stuck and needs multiple attempts to lower.
I'd be looking into the possible reasons for this "getting stuck" issue. The way these things work is not all that complicated and most likely something is not aligned properly or it needs a touch of lube or there is something getting "caught" in there, or something is bent, etc.
Bill
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5 hours ago, Gliddenwoods said:
Without regard to cost what brand(s) of zerks would you purchase if you wanted to obtain the very best zerks available?
As with anything else, I'm sure that there are some zerks that are better made (materials, craftsmanship, etc.) than others. However, given the relatively simple design and purpose of these things, I've never given the cost of a zerk or where or how its made much thought. Heck, you can buy as many of these little things as you most likely could ever use for much less than $50.
Having said this - I would strongly suggest that for any new zerks and/or even old zerks, the usage of protective caps over the zerks helps keep them cleaner and less likely to get "plugged" by keep most dirt out of that little spring loaded ball that is in the end of the zerk.
Bill
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1 hour ago, Gliddenwoods said:
Not sure how the claim will go, but new equalizers will be installed either way.
Assume that you realize that this is a relatively expensive option versus simply tapping new threads and replacing the "cheap" zerks?
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15 minutes ago, Dennis and Melissa said:
But mine have started to fail, even wiggling out on occasion. 😩
An occasional good cleaning and a shot of WD-40 will make these things last a long time. Pay particular attention to the little "ball" in one end and the "push button" in the other and also give the holes in the bumper a little shot of lube (WD-40 or something similar) from time to time.
Bill
p.s. you might also take a look in Tractor Supply if that is easier - they used to carry these pins.
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47 minutes ago, Boudicca908 said:
but I did receive the senior discount.
You're a "senior"?
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1 hour ago, Boudicca908 said:
I didn't mention the rally.
In the past - if you mention that you are with the Oliver Rally, there is special pricing.🤑
Bill
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3 hours ago, John Dorrer said:
Totally my error.
Care to share where you went "south"?
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1 hour ago, Gliddenwoods said:
Any further zerk replacement project advice?
Given your picture, if it were mine, I'd break out the Q-tips and clean those small holes really well. Then - assuming that I could see threads in there - I'd remove one of the zerks from the other EZ Flex, clean it and take it to the local NAPA store. They should be able to get you a couple of exact replacements. Then I'd drive home and using only my fingers I'd see if these new zerks would thread into the existing holes. If they do then the job is basically complete.
Bill
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34 minutes ago, Gliddenwoods said:
I will call Oliver on Monday, but I am just outside of my two warranty period and I am assuming I am on my own even though I just discovered their assembly error.
Any thoughts, advice, sympathy and/or empathy?
While not guaranteed, I would not sweat the being just outside the two year warranty period. If, indeed, this was Oliver's error, I be willing to bet that they will make you "good" regardless of the warranty having expired. On the other hand, if it is just a case of the zerks missing, it is certainly possible that they became dislodged or broken and, therefore, the "fault" would/should not be laid at the door of Oliver. Simply put, Oliver should/would not be held responsible for those things that are entirely out of their direct control. Unfortunately, I'm not too sure just how one might go about proving and/or disproving that the zerks were not or were in the appropriate positions at the time of delivery.
My experience would suggest that if you "even handedly" made your case and could show reasonable "proof" that the zerks were not where they should have been then Oliver will most likely take care of you. Of course in this case it helps that zerks are not very expensive. On the other hand, if there is no place for the zerks that should be there, this is ,obviously, easy to prove and, again, I believe that Oliver will take care of you.
Good luck!
Bill
p.s. In my business dealings and general discussions with the staff at Oliver, I've found that a professional even handed approach tends to be received much better than what might be considered an angry confrontational approach.
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5 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:
the CGI guys (Gavin and Colin) did a renew on our ceramic coating this week. Looks better than new (except for the chips on the lower front)!
That's great to hear -
I'm already on their schedule for early September, 2026!
Bill
p.s. that gal is looking good 😎
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53 minutes ago, Steve Morris said:
When you store the filter do you do anything special so that it is ready to use for the next trip?
Having remembered instructions included with a backpacking personal water filter I have, I asked "Google AI" the following question:
"do camping water filters need anything between uses?"
And the reply was:
"Yes, camping water filters need cleaning and drying between uses to prevent bacteria and algae growth. After each trip, you should flush the filter with clean water and allow it to dry completely before storing it in a cool, dry place, preferably in a sealed bag. For long-term storage, some manufacturers recommend a more thorough cleaning with a diluted bleach solution or sanitization, and it's always best to follow the specific instructions for your filter model. "
Certainly makes sense to me.
Bill
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Steve -
Do you just lose pressure at the head of the faucet or does the loss of pressure also effect the kitchen?
Do you know how far you pull the faucet out before it starts effecting the pressure?
Bill
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3 hours ago, Against The Wind said:
So, Oliver, what’s up?
I doubt that the "Company Store" will happen any time soon.
Since the end of the Covid induced boom in RV sales, the RV market has not been anywhere near even what it was prior to Covid. This along with many economists predicting an economic downturn plus an unsettled political climate basically forced Oliver (along with much of the RV industry) to reduce staff. In turn, this reduction in staff has caused even fewer people to be available for what might be called "non-essential" activities.
Please be reminded that Oliver is very sensitive to not only its own bottom line, but, also the well being of its employees. During the 2008 recession when Oliver stopped producing travel trailers, Oliver was the only company (that I know of) that never laid off any of its employees. Those employees that were involved with travel trailers were all offered comparable jobs in other areas of the overall company - like the walk-in tub line.
Bill
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According to AI:
"No, propane tanks are not required to be on the ground to be refilled; in fact, for safety and stability, above-ground tanks must be placed on a solid, level surface, like a concrete slab. While some tanks are buried underground, the key requirement for refilling is accessibility for the delivery truck, not a specific placement on the ground.Above-ground tanks-
Placement:Must be placed on a stable, level surface like a concrete slab or compacted granite to prevent instability from water runoff.
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Accessibility:The tank needs to be easy to access, with the propane truck able to get within about 80 feet.
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Safety:The area should be well-ventilated and clear of obstructions like trees, shrubbery, or power lines that could cause damage or block access. "I suspect that what you are running into are local dealer (or even national chain store) standard practices that are designed to lessen the loads that workers have to carry/lift combined with their not wanting to be held liable for damages to RV's and/or other structures due to troubles getting tanks in/out of reasonably confined spaces. As we all know, propane tanks are not light and getting them in/out of our Ollies is not the easiest task regardless of the tanks being full or empty. Frankly, I insist on taking these tanks in/out all by myself because I don't want damage done to my Oliver by someone that simply isn't as careful.There have been a number of discussions here on the Forum over the years about aluminum/fiberglass tanks and I'm certain that at least one owner has them.Good luck!Bill
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Cort -
Any chance you could "borrow" a handle from one of the other valves down there? Or, is there an Ace Hardware/Home Depot/Lowe's nearby where you could purchase a replacement?
Bill
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Entryway Mod
in Ollie Modifications
Posted
Nice mod - I never thought about putting a bar on the closet door.
Another thing that should be mentioned -
The bar on the screen door is great for catching the entire door assembly in the event that the wind catches it. However, no matter how it is attached to the screen door the fact remains that the screen door itself is made from rather light weight aluminum. Anyone that places a bunch of weight on that door risks either the catch bar being ripped out of the mounting screws or brackets or (worse yet) the door frame becoming bent.
I always try to tell people that are unfamiliar with this issue to please use the Oliver installed grab bars if they feel they need the extra support while entering/exiting the Ollie.
Bill