stlipa

We had a similar experience. What began as one, fine crack near the window eventually spread with a spider-like appearance throughout most of the door over a period of several years. Finally decided to have the door replaced earlier this year by Oliver. I had asked Mike Sharpe if repair, instead of replacement, was an option. Mike had gotten that question before, and had then checked with a tech who had attempted the repair. Mike was told by the tech that the repair wasn't feasible; too labor intensive with unsatisfactory results. Note: the shade of the door (manufactured by Lippert) was a slightly different shade of white than the rest of the trailer; noticeable if you look for it. Jason said that Lippert might consider a custom job to match the shade of the existing door. However, even if would Lippert did agree to it, Jason was unsure of the cost or time it would take for the job. We decided to go with the slightly off-shade version. I had asked both Oliver and Lippert what caused the cracks, but neither knew. Good luck!

"Camping Le Joie" has shuttles that go into Old Quebec City. Very convenient. We were there in 2023.

We first experienced cracks in the fiberglass interior of the door about four years ago. Initially, there were only a few. Over time, the cracks spread spider-web like over most of the door, widening as they spread. When the cracks first appeared, I had contacted the Oliver Service Dept. for guidance. Service did not know what would cause the cracks. The only option was to replace the door (Mike Sharpe also checked with a tech who had tried to replace the cracked fiberglass in another door, but had determined that was not feasible.). I also contacted Lippert, the door's manufacturer, for its take on the possible cause, but Lippert had nothing to offer on what might have caused it. We lived with the spreading and widening cracks for four years, but bit the bullet earlier this year and replaced the door while in Hohenwald for other work on the Ollie. The new door is still manufactured by Lippert, and still features the same pebbled fiberglass on its interior. A major difference, however, is that the door closes much more easily. Now, a nudge will close it whereas the old door had to be firmly closed (a light slam?.). I have to wonder if that continuous hard closing caused the cracking? The other feature that I don't remember from the first door is the new door appears to have first installed within a frame, which would have then been attached to the Ollie's frame. I never noticed if the first door was built into its own frame, or not.

I have an 2016 Elite II. I had the same issue a few years ago. The cause of the problem was a faulty check valve. I eventually replaced it (it’s located in the basement), but was able to use the inlet in the rear of the trailer to fill the tank. You might try that as a temporary work around. You’ll need to re-configure the valves, same as when winterizing.

Stlipa #137 Dometic 13.5 Mid 90’s with sun, cooled fine will downsize to smaller unit when the Dometic needs replacement

We have 57,800 miles on our 2016 (hull 137.)

Same experience. On the road, and the charger/converter failed. Have lead acid batteries, + 5 years old. Happened to have a trickle charger with me, and used that to recharge the batteries overnight, every night.. Topgun’s advice is spot on. Replaced the the PD charger/converter, and that solved the problem.

A thorough review of the development of the 2022 Tundra with Toyota's chief engineer who managed the process.

I had the same problem a few years ago, and almost replaced the rear quick connect. However, I was eventually able to insert the male connection using two hands, one to push back the collar while forcefully pushing in the male insert with the other. It does seem to go in more easily now. I was told by MB Sturgis, where I bought the propane hose extension, that was probably due to the female connection being slightly out of spec.

I had a similar experience, checking the bubble indicators periodically, which never did turn 'white'. When I finally pulled off the caps, the cells were dry. I did not experience a significant voltage drop, or electrical issues, although the minimum voltage at night has been 12.5, lower than it should be. I have read, and found, that the hydrolink system does prevent overfilling, indicated by no longer being able to squeeze the hand pump; so I have periodically topped off the water. Try equalizing the batteries a few times, if the voltage does not come back to where it should be. I've found that does boost the minimum voltage a decimal or two. By the way, Trojan advertises a four year warranty for the hydrolink system. Good luck. Russ Caslin

I contacted the Oliver Service Dept. a few months ago, and was sent a collection of fuses that are representative of those used in the Ollie. Spoke with Linda: the cost of the package was ~$18.

Hello Rob: We have a 2015 JGC Overland 4x4 (see earlier posts in this thread) with the 3.0 Diesel that has similar torque and the same towing capacity as the Hemi. It has towed the Elite II an estimated 30,000 miles over varied terrain, including through the Rockies from New Mexico up into Wyoming and back, with no problem. We don't use a WDH, and haven't experienced a need for one. Russ

I had previously applied Capt. Tolley's crack sealer to the gasket around each porch light (to stop streaking), and a second time to the porch light above the window that leaked, before going through the above exercise. Is that what you mean by 're-sealing', or something else?

We experienced the same problem: the weep holes were clear, as were the channels, but still had a wet bed on the driver's side after a storm. Yesterday, I pulled the Ollie to our house, and my wife trained a hose on the suspect window. It took a while, but rivulets appeared in several spots running down the side of the interior below the window frame. The frame is caulked, but there were several breaks in the caulk through which the water ran. I cleaned out the existing caulk as well as I could, and re-caulked the entire bottom of the window frame. We had a storm last night; this morning, the bed was dry. It's a small sample size, but I'm hoping this solved the problem. I don't understand enough about the window frame's structure to understand how the water got to where it did from the channels; I had checked the exterior caulking of the window, and it appeared to be intact. We're going to Hohenwald in a couple of weeks for some odds & ends, and I'll ask. Anyway, you may want to check the caulk on the underside of the window frame. Good luck!

Puzzled by the apparent drop in towing capacity, I contacted the local jeep dealer where I bought mine (Glendale Jeep.) The service person I spoke with was unaware of any changes in the chassis or suspension in the 2018 version of the Grand Cherokee, but agreed that the communication materials on that subject were less than clear. I contacted Jeep's headquarters via email with the same question, and received this reply, in part: "When comparing the 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 3.0L V6 Turbo Diesel 4x4, the 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee is capable of towing 7,200 lbs with no changes from its 2015 counterpart." In addition, the following link was provided which more clearly reflects the towing capacity: www.mopar.com. So, it appears that the towing capacity has not changed. Russ Caslin