John E Davies

I just went over for a look, and my factory charger is a dual 1 amp unit, by Blue Sea, just an earlier model. I could have sworn it was a single. Good for Oliver, they spec good qality parts. Too bad it isn’t a higher amp version. Thanks for the link. John Davies Spokane WA

I have a single low power usb charge socket on the street side, factory installed. I need one on the other side and prefer a double 2.1 amp receptacle unit. The Web is full of junk Chinese units, and they are all lit up with a bright colored LED. That is the last thing I want over a bed.... I can’t find anything unlit except for this Blue Sea one. MSRP is $45. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Sea-1045-Fast-Charge-Dual-USB-Charger-Boat-Socket-Mount-4-8A-Phone-Tablet/291719502520?epid=1560446457&hash=item43ebd65ab8:g:DN8AAOSwU4FaGh0j&vxp=mtr Blue Sea sells it on Amazon for $58 plus free shipping. LOL. ... what a deal! Does anyone have any other recommendations? I want a high quality unit. The Blue Sea one will visually match the Oliver one and does not cut any corners in terms of quality. Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

Using regular plain (unscented, no additives) household bleach, you can sterilize your fresh water. Note, this is not the dose for a shock treatment, rather it is the dose needed to treat suspect water that you intend to fill your tank with, and leave it there. I was looking for a compact storage solution, and I found a 4 ounce squeeze bottle and a small shot-glass style measuring cup from a cough syrup bottle. Conventional recommendation is 2 teaspoons per 10 gallons. Unless you bake, you may not find measuring spoons lying around.... I converted tsps to milliliters (ccs) and to my delight, 2 tsps = 9.9 ml. So 10 gallons of water needs 10 ml of bleach. My little shot glass is graduated 5 ml increments, which means 5 gallon increments. Plus it nests neatly on top of the bottle: From looking at different websites, this amount is on the high end, so I would not add any more.... I have never tried this before, I think pouring the small amount into your uncharged fresh water hose, after your filter, then connecting it to the tank fill port, would be a painless and quick method. Any thoughts about how to get the bleach into the tank, other than using the suction port? John Davies Spokane WA

Great post Mark, thank you. With the suction fill system on the, Ollie, would you add a small amount of bleach-treated water to a clean container and slurp it into the fresh tank before filling from the normal fill port? Sometimes you don’t know exactly how much water the tank will take - you can guess using the gauge and/or looking at the water level - so how could you get a reasonably accurate dose? Or does it just not matter much? We drink bottled water, so I don’t mind if there is a slight chlorine tang to the tap water.... normally I try to fill up from a trusted source. My house has treated city water, and that is my first choice. But I do worry when I have to top up at a strange campsite... John Davies Spokane WA

I tend to react more toward corporate stupidity rather than CEO stupidity. Mr. Anderson sounds as if he is a clueless jerk. I probably would not like him if I met him in person. Will I get rid of my hitch? Nope, not for such a dumb act as this. I hate vandalism, big or small, but I am not going to get unglued over it. John Davies Spokane WA

I always tun off the hydrant when we leave the site, even for a walk. My wife laughs at me, so what? I never release pressure inside, since I turn the tap as we walk away. John Davies Spokane WA

This article is a condemnation of a greedy and immoral company that spent decades hiding data and even destroying evidence. Goodyear’s “court sealed” tire failure information has been released and their lawyers are frantically trying to prevent the data from being published. Note, this story is specific to the big 22.5 inch commercial truck tires used in large motorhomes. “Almost universally all of the failures occur at highway speeds,” he wrote. The letter also revealed for the first time how many manufacturers utilized the G159. Goodyear’s disclosures, Kurtz wrote, “reveals G159 failures in what appears to be 17 different motorhome manufacturers and 39 separate motorhome models commencing July 1996 and continuing through September 2015.” For context, Kurtz points to the failure rate of the defective Firestone tires that ensnared Ford in a nationwide scandal nearly two decades ago. Court filings suggest the G159's failure rate is anywhere from 10 to 27 times worse than the Firestone tires deemed defective by NHTSA. Goodyear employees themselves can’t identify any tire made by the company that comes close to the G159's failure rate, Kurtz wrote in the letter. https://jalopnik.com/goodyear-knew-of-dangerous-rv-tire-failures-for-over-20-1824997252 I had a set of Goodyear car tires once and was not terribly impressed. Now there is a seriously valid reason to never buy ANY of their (tire) products in the future. Also, how many of these injuries and deaths would have been avoided if there has been Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems in the affected RVs? Most of them? Makes you think.... The article also reinforces my natural aversion to travelling on Interstates where the heavy trucks are driving 70 or even 75 mph. I will stick to slower roads whenever possible, since my normal towing speed is 60. John Davies Spokane WA

Yep. All the wiring other than the 7 pin trailer main harness. John Davies Spokane WA

Well, I am bummed. I loosened the bulkhead fitting and tried to pull a little extra cable through it. There must be a second compression nut on the inside of the hull that is holding the cable, because the cable only moves less than 1/8 inch.... I ordered a junction box and front harness. Rats. I guess that will be another HOW TO thread.... John Davies Spokane WA

I am pretty sure you could build a system for WAY less than $450. The largest expense will be hoses and really heavy gauge electrical cable to run the pump remotely, unless you want to sub a big battery for that. As long a reach as the pump in the video had (40 meters), you need big wires, and they get pricy. For 50 feet or so, 10 AWG would be plenty big. For 150 ft I would be looking way larger, (ie: heavier and expensive). How far away do you want to pump? If I were going to do this, I would use a 110 volt AC water pump, short hoses and wires, and a jerry can to fill and to carry the water to the trailer. The can is always with me anyway, as is my generator to run the pump. This method would greatly minimize complexity, weight, storage space and cost.... it would be kind of a motorized backpacking filter, using equipment I already carry. Depending on what filters you choose, and how skillful you are at finding deals (used pump, for example) I think you could do it for way less than $200. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHURflo-Industrial-2088-594-154-Electric-Pump-115V-60Hz-3-3GPM-45-PSI-/222661842556?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10 Do NOT cut corners with the filtration, you do not want nasties living and breeding in your fresh water system! You will never match the capabilities of this system, but you should try to get close .... http://earthcruiser.net.au/features/#waterp John Davies Spokane WA

Is this the sort of setup you want? I have not heard of a commercial version, but it would be very simple to build your own. The only comment I could make about his system is that the suction hose should be as short as possible and at least one size larger in diameter than the discharge hose. I wonder if he worries about nasty creatures in that muddy river? John Davies Spokane wA

Oh yes, what is the payload of your truck, and the weight of the toy tray and the CanAm? Subtract those fixed loads, and the rest is what your truck can deal with in terms of “stuff” and 700 pounds of draw bar, Rock Tamers and trailer tongue weight. If you will be close to maxxed out, then perhaps a WD hitch will be needed. Some of those HD Fords have massive payloads, do the math for us. My Ram was pretty lightly loaded compared to your rig. John Davies Spokane WA

Alex, first of all, the Anderson hitch is available in a number of different configurations. So your tall receiver is a non issue. You might or might not need it for the Tundra.... you should try without first.... https://andersenhitches.com/Catalog/weight-distribution-kits.aspx Second, you do not need ANY kind of equalizing hitch for your HD truck. Dead weight is fine. My Ram 3500 never noticed the weight. I used an extended reach conventional stinger with a 2 inch, 7500 pound long shank ball. I had to get that from Etrailer, it is intended to go through a double wall steel truck bumper. https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Ball/Brophy/SC23-C.html I bought eight Grade 8 (hard) flat 1 inch ID fender washers at Fastenal to use to fine tune the height by stacking them under the ball. They worked great. You may or may not need them, but it is good to have the ability to shift the height a little. Do not use soft washers here! Plan on a tongue height of about 23.5 inches. Buy the correct drop bar to put the top of your ball about an inch higher, when your truck is fully loaded (wih full gear and CanAm). Close is good enough. Done. Worst case scenario, you might want to switch to HD adjustable reaarshocks, if the factory ones seem overwhelmed. But I bet they will be fine, for a few years at least. As far as your Rock Tamers go, if you have slop in your receiver, you will be unhappy to see them flopping around when you drive empty. A little play at the hitch translates to up to a couple of inches movement at the far end of the bars. It is not a problem while towing. You can buy TWO of these if it is a problem: https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Anti-Rattle/Roadmaster/RM-061.html?feed=npn&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2Mnkz6Cd2gIVyrfACh2a2QjSEAQYAyABEgIs8_D_BwE One clamps the draw bar to the receiver. The other clamps hard up against the Rock Tamer bracket, strengthening that connection and taking the strain off the two pinch bolts. I am in bed right now pecking away at my iPad. I will see if I can find a pic of my previous setup to share. John Davies Spokane WA

Thanks guys ... I was hoping to avoid buying a new box, front harness, and clamps, then spending two or three hours wiring it all up. I think I will loosen the compression fitting and give the cable a tug. If it slides out easily I will be happy. The J box could then be another winter project. Otherwise, thanks for the links Mark. Do you prefer one box over the other? I did send a note to Jason suggesting they install a J box during production. John Davies Spokane WA

120V 2200W max. (18.3A), 1800W rated (15A) There is not very much reserve power, 15 amps is not really enough extra to safely run your converter or some other DC loads at the same time as the air conditioner. The Yamaha 2400 will push 19 amps all day long, and surge well over 30 amps. It is a significantly bigger/ heavier unit though. I don't know the running load of your AC, for my Air Command it is 12 amps, so I have lots left over for other circuits. There are always trade-offs in choosing a generator. John Davies Spokane WA

Is it possible to just pull out some extra cable from inside the trailer after loosening the compression fitting on the hull? Is there extra slack under the vanity? I only need three or four inches. (I am extending my Anderson hitch with a"rack" with a longer shank.) Does anyone else wish there were a weatherproof junction box up front for the trailer harness, so you could swap in a new front part easily? Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

1 - If you are determined to see Glacier it does not make a bit of sense to detour west to WA unless you change your mind and decide to take the Alaska Ferry. In your shoes I would stay on the west side of Glacier, drive the Going To The Sun Rd as far as it is open, and enjoy the camping lower down for a few days. Then head up toward Banff, staying in the Rockies, But if you need to make time on the road, you could cut west and go through the ID Panhandle and cross at Eastport (US95). That is probably a better route if you just need to cover miles. But I have never driven very far that way, so I can only really comment on the US side. Coming into WA is knd of out of the way, unless you need to crash in my driveway :) 4 - Series 80. That was a 1996 LX450, a tarted up LC. I bought it used in stock condition and completely modded it over 14 years. I loved it, and gave it to my son. He was returning to Seattle on the day after New Years 15 months ago, and in the middle of the state he hit a patch of sheet ice and spun it into a cable guard rail. It was totalled but he was uninjured, except in his heart. I have a mostly stock 200 now. It is a way better machine in most ways, except offroad nimbleness and coolness... 5 - Rock Tamers - They are not a bad choice, just be sure you follow the Aussie guidelines when you install them. They should sail at a 30 to 45 degree angle when driving. You rig this by twisting the shafts in their brackets so they have a preload up and back. It looks odd since everybody else in this country has his straight down. But they are all wrong, you will be the right one. An angle causes the stones to be deflected down onto the road instead of straight up to your tailgate. Also, make sure they don’t drag the road on dips or they can shoot a rooster tail of gravel up at your new baby. No flaps on the TV are really effective, I retired my Rock Tamers and they are gathering dust. John Davies Spokane WA

"Hand deliver, back to Anita, the box of samples and one dozen donuts from (just up the road) Walmart Bakery." Fixed it for you. Anita is a sweetheart, and so is the office dog. FYI, Mouse was greased at delivery, but after 3000 miles the fittings took a lot, so maybe I should have topped them up earlier. It certainly cannot hurt to do it in TN. It is hard to do something as inherently messy and unappealing as greasing suspension ,when you have all those cool new features to play with and learn about.... For sure check the tires and lower the pressures to a reasonable setting, including the spare. I hope you and Joni have a great trip, enjoy your new Ollie, and if you have time please post some road pics. John Davies Spokane WA

One more thing.... do you have a special reason, or folks you are going to visit in Montana? Because this early in the season very few National Forest Service campgrounds will be open (they begin to open mid-May), much of the high country will be inaccessible due to snow, and you certainly wouldn’t be able to drive across Glacier NP. Yellowstone will be mostly open, if that is on your itinerary. Unless you must be in MT, I suggest that you spend an extra week in southern UT and visit the Parks there, and maybe do some exploring around Escalante in the CanAm, for example Burr Trail and the Waterpocket Fold/ Lake Powell area. Southern UT in May is delightful and warm to hot. MT will still be recovering from winter. Don’t get me wrong - I love MT - but it simply can’t compare to UT for pure scenery, except for a few spots which you won’t be able to fully experience early in the season. Western MT is trees and mountains, and I bet that you get enough of that in Alaska. The desert terrain will be a refreshing change, and I suggest that you maximize your exposure to it.... two weeks would be plenty. Finally, if you are driving through Spokane, send me a PM and you will be welcome to stop by, boondock in the driveway for a day or two, and take care of any maintenance chores before finishing the long haul home. John Davies Spokane WA

There you go. If you need help figuring out how to edit pics, tell us what you are using to take them. If an iPhone or similar, it is super easy. I love your tow setup, that will work great. I am not sure about leaving the top up on the Can Am for that many miles, is there a tight fitting tonneau that would protect it and also lower the profile? Do you plan to install larger mudflaps on the Ford? Those factory ones are definitely adequate for such an epic trip.... You will love Moab. Any of the trails outside the parks will be fair game. Just be sure your UTV is street legal if you want to tool around on roads, and keep the speed way down. The White Rim Road in Canyonlands is simply stunning, but you can’t drive your toy on it, but you could rent a Wrangler for a day, and camp overnight if you bring the gear and bags. You can only camp at designated spots along the White Rim, and reservations are essential. http://www.discovermoab.com/atv.htm Tell us what you like to do, and that will help..... we were at Moab in 2012 and I still have absolutely vivid memories. What a great place to visit, when it is not too warm. White Rim pics: Overnight visitor tracks on the rear bumper: John Davies Spokane WA

Spike, you can ask for an extra bearing set to be colleced at delivery, it will cost less than getting it from Amazon. Just remember to look for it with the suppled spares, and make sure it is there. John Davies Spokane WA

I mounted them smooth side to the rear EXACTLY because that is the easier side to clean. That is the part that shows the most, I do not care if the front face collects stuff. I just pressure wash that off anyway, or it falls off in the rain. Secondly, if I have to trim the bottom for clearance, I will round the corners and the back side will look unchanged. The front has a thicker lip all the way around the perimeter that would look weird if cut away and facing the back. If you want to install a set with the textured side, or a naked lady, facing the rear, go for it. I won't hold it against you. ;) I usually do stuff for a valid reason. It may not match your own logic, but I did think about it, and there was a reason for doing it the way I did.... John Davies Spokane WA

I would really like to see a detailed thread describing the XO Jack and also your McHitch coupler. If I still had my HD Ram I would order one of those couplers in a heartbeat, but I really need the Anderson with my Land Cruiser. I used to use a Treg coupler on my old trailer, those are neat too. Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

Yes and no..... If you have a TPMS system, the hot hub will show up on your display and a warning will sound, and it may give you some time to get to a shop. If you don't have any way of monitoring the hub, then the first sign something is wrong might be be nasty noises and smoke coming out of the hub. I have had several bearing failures over 40 years, luckily all but one I caught in time. The one I missed was on a little motorcycle trailer with 8 inch wheels. It did not like cruising at 75 mph for three days straight and one bearing set disintegrated catastrophically. Everyone really should have a TPMS, it just makes sense for peace of mind and safety. It's also smart to physically check all the bearings routinely, say every thousand miles, by raising the tires off the ground and moving the wheels by hand. Rotate and listen for "dry bearing" rumbles, and shake the top of the tire inwards and outwards to watch for play. This latter check can be done in five seconds per tire when stopped with the tires on the ground and the trailer brakes off (a normal parked scenario). Put your foot on top of the tire sidewall and push violently inward as hard as you can, repeatedly, using all your weight. If there is play in the bearings you will see the hub move and it will make clunking noises. That second method only detects bearings that are REALLY loose, moving them by hand is a far better way to do it, I have caught bad bearings on rental trailers by kicking with my foot. It really does work. John Davies Spokane WA

The flaps are easy to cut with a new razor knife blade. Level the trailer side to side! Once clamped into position, check that the flap is vertical along the outside edge using a bubble level, drill the holes 5/16". Remove and enlarge slightly oversize; this gives you a little wiggle room for final adjustment. Install the flaps with hardware specified in the other thread. Both flaps clear the jack, and also any blocks under it. The flap can easily be pushed back for extra room. The left flap: Clearance with the jack was tighter on this side. The jack was mounted about 1 inch further back on the frame rail. It still clears. And the flap also clears the cargo door when fully open. The bar has about 2 inches clearance with the door itself. The right flap again: The hot water heater door lies against the rubber when fully open. The bottom edge is 3.5 inches off the ground. I will see how this does, and if it seems to be dragging excessively, I can easily trim off a couple of inches. ***** I don't THINK that it would be possible to pinch a flap between a curb (or rock) and the tire when backing up! I will check to be certain, and if needed I may have to remove a little from the bottom. ***** EDIT 05/20/18: No worries about dragging, I have backed over a standard street curb and the flap folds forwards but does not get pinched. The flaps are very effective on gravel roads, but there are still rock strikes on the gelcoat above the front of the flaps, there is no way of stopping that. But behind them, the bottom of the hull stays much cleaner and relatively undamaged. I'll post a few pics outside when I next tow Mouse. This was a fun project. Fabricating the bars, drilling the subframe and installing them was time consuming and a little finicky. Actually fitting and attaching the flaps was quick and easy. I like how they look, and they should provide significant protection for the curved part of the hull, the puddle lights, water fittings, rear bumper and back of the trailer (from rocks pinging off the front face of the bumper). John Davies Spokane WA