csevel

A list of the items I bought to complete the project. 1. https://amzn.to/3JVHMJU 2. https://amzn.to/3MdT8dT 3. https://amzn.to/3uQgyjC I also used some Duck Nano Tape from Walmart to hold the vent in place and to be waterproof. I used these Dremel cutoff wheels https://amzn.to/3vjIjju, but you can use whatever tool necessary to cut the plexiglass. Some people use a jigsaw for plexi, but I don't own one. The Dremel with a long flexible shaft made the work easy, especially for the center cutout. It did take some time to get the measurements correct but I went with 16.5" for the height. I imagine you could make the width any size you want. Please wear safety goggles and a mask as the plastic gets everywhere! Good Luck.. I'm super excited in any interest. Hopefully with the rain we're getting today, I can report back with positive results.

I tried unsuccessfully to rotate the pix! Hopefully a moderator will step in and help me out!

I don’t even know when Airxcel (makers of the Maxxair Window/Maxx Louvered Window Vent) stopped production (maybe 2015) but I was one of the lucky ones who purchased a couple from Little House Customs for use on my Casita. Right before putting OCD for sale, I removed them for use on the ILOVHER. I consider myself lucky as there are still current threads about owners with radius style sliding windows who want the ability to open the windows in the rain for that much needed airflow. The company apparently doesn’t see the need to start production and maybe our fiberglass market is just too small to justify a rebirth. Occasionally, I’ll see a couple pop up on Ebay but they go for a mint..sometimes upwards of $150 plus shipping! I have followed the topic with interest because one of my vents is spider cracking..probably from UV exposure and vibration over ten years. It’s still hanging in there with a bit of FlexSeal tape! I stumbled across a gentleman on Fiberglassrv who was 3D printing a drop-in two piece vent in three colors and sent me info on his prototype. Here is the link to the discussion and a picture of his 3D design: https://bit.ly/3JNotT5 I was emailing him back and forth in September of 2020 but my understanding is that he’s dropped off the planet. He was charging right around $80 for one. I’m not sure how many people were able to purchase one but I never did. I decided to put my mod brain to work and came up with the design below. I will eventually make another one for the curbside. I really enjoyed the process and it wasn’t terribly expensive to do! (about $50) in materials. PM me if you’re interested in the material list.. The vent is made out of a black boat louvered ventilator. I got the idea from a friend who had something similar on the hood of his ATV. I used a piece of ⅛” smoked plexiglass and the window screen as a template. The plexi was cut with a standard Dremel tool cutting wheel. The edges were trimmed with rubber edge trim and the vent is seated with a waterproof nanotape. The only downside is having to install the vent when it’s raining outside and removing it before travel…that’s where the Maxxair vent had the edge! You simply slide the whole thing upwards into the upper track and it fits snug and water-tight. The other bonus was that I didn’t have to add screening as the current screen still closes with it in place. This was really fun to do and I’m super stoked to test it out!

That's impressive! My understanding is that treated lumber isn't what it used to be and I've actually had some split. We had part of our deck replaced last summer and it's already showing signs of warping!

Weighs 9#

Just wanted to share an item that I've found recently that I'm pretty impressed with. I have used various pieces of treated lumber in the past and will still carry a few for sloped sites where I need to lower the bow more, but I recently was looking for a better (and safer) option for the front jack post while parked in my driveway or at level sites. It's called an Ox Blox. They can be purchased in a pack (4) for the rear stabilizers as well. I only ordered one for now to test it out as it's a little pricey for a hunk of 9# plastic, but so far, I really like it. It can support up to 10K pounds. I added the knotted red rope handles for ease of use. I know there are other options like Andersen but I'm liking it's low profile and the recycled plastic. https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Camper-Blocks-stabilizer-Supports/dp/B09DMM51FP/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2QDUHSRGXH4DQ&keywords=Ox+blox&qid=1649865895&sprefix=ox+blox%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A2VI3MSVP5BC79&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzR0dXVTcwMUFBVFJDJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzg3NTkzMjk4MVVISThCUE1WRCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDgwODAwMklGNEtXWTNDVzRLTSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

This is one of my worst nightmares! I am so happy you and your loved ones are alive! I have noticed in recent years how many people are distracted and crossing the centerline. I see it and am on the lookout all the time, even within five miles of my house! I can't even imagine the terror of rolling with camper in tow. Blessings to you and your search for a new Ollie 🙂 ♥️

Well then! Back to the drawing board as I DO have the Dexter E-Z flex Suspension! Now I'm completely confused! My goodness..does it have to be this hard??

I did receive a timely response from Jason Essary: "The preferred method for a dual axle camper is to use an EZ Jack tire chock. If you do not have an EZ jack chock then locate the closest frame point, to the wheel that will be removed, and place cribbing between the frame & jack so that the pressure is spread across the cribbing" I do in fact have the Andersen Rapid Jack from my Casita days in addition to the smaller Andersen leveler which I use for the front tire for side to side leveling on the ILOVHER. I guess I was NOT thinking! Makes perfect sense for roadside flats or bearing failures (which I hope doesn't ever happen to me)..DUH!

Yeah, you're right! My Dad simply left me out of the mechanical stuff and reserved his knowledge for my brothers. He died when I was 21 so I never got to ask him these things now that they are important. The brothers..well, they live in other states.

I didn't mean to revive the beaten topic as I've noticed this has come up time and time again through searching and I know there are a number of variables that would predicate different jacking methods, but since I'm a girl with limited knowledge, I'd like to feel confident lifting the trailer in the right spot whether on the side of the road or in my driveway. I have a 3 ton floor jack to use for in-driveway maintenance or rotations, but obviously wouldn't have that available on the side of the road. I have a 2 ton bottle jack that I could use roadside if the onboard jacks shouldn't be used for flat tires.. So the question is the spring plate the right spot if I don't have the steel subframe? Thanks for all of your help!

I do have a service ticket for May. I'm in a place where learning to do my own maintenance and/or repairs is important and I excite for the learning experience. However, my tireless research on the forum and elsewhere has left me a bit confused. There's many ways to skin the cat I've gleaned - and since Olivers are constructed differently in different years, I'm having a hard time nailing down how to properly lift my ILOVHER. My Casita (OCD) was simple. The Oliver service bulletin doesn't seem to apply in my case. I will be traveling quite a distance to my first rally and these type of things are just worth knowing if I end up on the side of the road. Thanks for all of your help!!

I know I'm reviving an old thread but my '17 does not have the steel overlay forward OR aft of the tires as shown in the photo above. I know because I used a magnet to see. Am I safe in just using the spring plate to place jack stands under while I do bearing, lube and brake work??

This was removed, properly sealed and modified last summer

This was exactly how I was able to identify the moisture, by removing the left partition in the attic (and the associated electrical outlet and antenna box) to get to the base plate of my corner TV and mount. There was no moisture in the main attic itself...just on the ceiling behind the white reflectix in the dark cauldron of tangled wires! I did not want to mess with removing wires or cords that someone after me might want so I they just got zip tied and neatly placed inside. The moisture was fairly prevalent on the ceiling surface. I know it's not my rear upper taillight as that was properly sealed this past summer. I will check it again in a few days when the weather changes. Thanks for your help.

Interesting visual! I'm well aware of condensation as I had a fiberglass Casita for ten years with single pane windows.. Double hull is a whole nuther animal!!

I'm a second owner so I have no idea if Oliver gives a credit for nixing the TV on a new build.. HUMID? I wish..Nope..NE Ohio!

Today I tackled the removal of the television! ILOVHER ('17) has her TV installed in the corner which prevents flipping the mattress up fully to access the valves. It's also a head knocker for anyone who ever would sleep there although the DH sleeps with his head at the galley end. I considered the center position above the nightstand with a flip up mount but we simply NEVER watch TV while camping and if inclement weather shackles us indoors, we can always download movies or whatnot on to our tablets. I'll hold on to the set for sale or maybe someday when I'm older and less active..buy a newer lighter smart TV. However.... what I encountered was a mess of tangled wires and cords!! I tried to neatly keep things zip tied together and out of the way but my concern is the amount of condensation I was feeling up there! It is below freezing today and I did have the furnace going to keep me warm while working, but how much condensation is too much between the shells? I know we have weep holes at the bottom of the trailer but I'm concerned with all of that wiring that something might fry. Should I worry about it? I had some snap caps left over from my Casita days so that made the bolt holes look acceptable. It looks so much better and I'm happy with it gone and out of the way!

The bearings I received from Summit have the QR code as in the right photo and also have raised 'Timken' black print below it. I scanned the bar code from the box on the WBA app. Not sure what else I'm supposed to do besides wait for a reply from Timken as I don't know what 'suspicious' is supposed to mean. The app is fairly basic and not really informative. Summit Racing has been highly recommended by forum members here and is supposed to be an authorized distributor. Just wanted to give others a heads up if these aren't authentic.

I'm getting ready to attempt my bearing repack, shock replacement and lube of the EZ-Flex suspension on ILOVHER as soon as the weather gets reasonable here in the Northeast! I'm lucky to be able to have my brother help me so I'm hopeful things will be straightforward. I ordered the Timken bearings from Summit Racing as suggested here to the tune of $150..including the SET17 and SET4 bearings, 4 seals and Redline CV-2 grease but... An FYI: I used the WBA app to verify that the bearings aren't counterfeit and they are coming up 'suspicious.' I filled out the information and we'll see where this goes. I'm sort of miffed by it but I will wait to see what Timken says..the World Headquarters are only 20 minutes away from Summit. You'd think they'd be legit. Any tips or tricks for this newbie would be greatly appreciated. I like to learn and am hoping things will go well with my brother's help.

I love the wood stove fan for your Buddy. I've seen a few cool Youtube videos of this modification and I plan on doing that to mine someday!

I find it useful for a hand held vacuum but I can't see using that door to access anything else that's stored farther back.

I went from owning three Toyota V8 4Runners to a Tundra. I knew that I had to have secure and dry storage since I was used to a lift gate. I studied tonneaus pretty intensively. I ended up with a BAK Revolver X4 rolling cover. I absolutely love it and it rolls easily, weighs only about 70#, can handle about 400# of evenly distributed weight on top and also locks for security. It's been flawless and looks really nice.

This concerns me as I have a '20 Tundra and I thought I would only have to worry about my cat in my '97 Ford Econoline van, but now BOTH?! I have a friend who loved my truck and wanted similar. He paid more for a pretty stripped 2019 Tundra than I did for my 2020..crazy times! I also say push back a bit more for a total. Good to know that your family is safe. Blessings to you!

There is no wobble at all. The nylon is thicker but it doesn't seem to matter. Since I tend to be a little obsessive, I even took all the stickers off the hatches that 'aren't for storage' and also removed the screws. I added some white snap caps to the screw holes and now have access to all of the compartments in the event of a mechanical need. Obviously, I'm bored. 😉