csevel

After reading the thread on the misaligned placement of the bracket and bushings for the Oliver's shocks, I went out to look and of course, I also have one blown shock! The shocks don't look terribly expensive but can you guys tell me how difficult it is to replace? Tools needed? I'm going to have to tackle this myself but don't want to rely on just Youtube videos as every application looks different. I have to say, I'm really starting to get aggravated as this trailer was barely used. The previous owners (hull #184) went twice to the rally in Alabama and a few times to their local state park before becoming very ill. The trailer sat for over a year and a half. I'm finding all these annoying issues that shouldn't be there and could have been dealt with under warranty had the owners known or noticed. Everything from the fresh water pick up, to faulty blinds, water intrusion at the upper tail light and front closet, over torqued screw heads, bad regulator, lifting flooring and a leaking fogged bathroom window...and now a blown shock, ugh! I realize other things are regular maintenance as I'm used to those but this is a bit much. 😞

I have used both Happy Camper and RV-Digest It in the powder form for about 5 years. I like both but think the RV-Digest it is a tad better. I pretty much would buy them based on the percentage off on the coupons they send me!

They are now $800.

Thank you for your responses. Everything suggested seems logical to me. I have a hard time with the Hypervent and Den-Dry products as they seem expensive for what it is. I read on Fiberglassrv that the material used is nothing more than stucco rainscreen or waterway drainage material but doesn't come in small rolls. I think I'd like to try some other materials first to see what works as I feel like everything 'Oliver' ends up being over a $100 mod. I really haven't had any moisture UNDER the mattress, just on the streetside 'side'. I put a 200w mini desk heater in the basement last night just to see if there was improvement and there was ZERO condensation this morning. This leads me to believe that that side of the trailer is more exposed to the cold since the water heater and furnace are on the curb side. I looked inside the basement and I'm baffled as to why there are partitions blocking any heat transfer to the vulnerable areas of the backside plumbing lines and streetside. I wonder if I should cut them away a bit so heat can move to that side more freely. I've seen the mod to the furnace where ducting was added and laid on top of the plumbing however, I think this beyond my skill level. The question about moisture is a good one for all travel trailer owners and I had my share from the single pane windows in my Casita. I guess I thought double pane would somehow not fog up this much, but I will definitely vent more in the future. I have decided not to pull the inner trim ring from the window as I don't want to create more problems. I think I'm going to plug the lower screw holes with something like caulk or rubber plugs to just prevent dripping out of them. I really like the idea of the pipe cleaners for wicking out of the weep holes and will add them to my arsenal. I want to study more real world cold weather camping as that's why I bought this trailer ..to extend my camping season in the Northeast. Condensation is probably a fact of rv ownership but I'd like to reduce this and protect my investment and custom mattresses as much as possible. Any other suggestions are always welcome! Thank you!

No other opinions on this? I guess I thought this would generate some more interest and/or ideas.🤐 Last night.. I took all of the gaskets out of the windows AGAIN (including the window track gasket) and thoroughly cleaned them. I will always vent a window or the MaxxAir fan lid when heating the inside. Lesson learned. However, I'm still getting condensation ONLY beside the beds near the wall NOT underneath. Any remedies for this? My plan is to just plug the inner frame screw holes with something that won't let water seep through.

So amongst a variety of other issues I've found in my 2017, this broken window screw thing got my attention this morning. I've read the thread above and am just reviving it and asking for more current advice. We had a low of 39 last night and we slept with the furnace set to 62. This was our first time using the furnace since we got ILOVHER in May. It worked perfectly and we were comfortable but woke up to two wet beds near the back of both windows. I will admit that I had little ventilation and hadn't thought to crack a window. (probably fireside wine induced, lol) We had some decent condensation on the interior back windows. We're slightly nose high (1 degree) and the water was dripping out of the missing screws holes I found after removing the shades. FYI...EXTERIOR WINDOW WEEP HOLES HAVE JUST BEEN THOROUGHLY CLEANED prior to this trip. I decided to try to remove a couple other interior screws and they are ALL SHEARED and can't be reinstalled due to the breakage and misalignment. I guess I'm now going to have to do an operation on all of them! Has anyone got a better solution to this inner trim ring issue? My assumption is that if you have INTERIOR condensation and it drips..there's no other channel for the water to go and those open screw holes just leak onto the beds.. That back window is tight to the first interior window track/channel and if it's any more than just a little fog..you're going to leak! Since we were tipped the back open screw holes were the culprit. What is the best way to proceed? I'm a bit irritated...although I know now to crack a window and dehumidify!

I have resorted to just taking the Andersen chains off and putting the whale tale on once I've driven to a nice level DRY straight section of asphalt. Sometimes slack and raising the front doesn't seem to help and I don't love the stress on the hitch or jack.. Removing the chains is easy and I don't mind it. Better than the frustration and subsequent swearing at the campsite.

I received my Calmark cover last week from Oliver.. Ouch$.. and I'm starting to think about the dreaded Ohio winter sleep that ILOVHER will endure in my driveway. I realize there are Oliver videos and numerous posts on winterization (& I have that experience from my Casita days and will fully do so) but I was wondering about leaving the trailer plugged in (30amp) and not removing my Duralast batteries. I have this crazy idea about wanting to still camp (if weather permits me to remove the cover) I used to remove the battery and keep it on a tender in my basement. I guess I'd like to know if there's any harm in doing so?

Yes, this was my concern as well when considering replacement. You'd have to be diligent in remembering to remove them for travel and stand in the rain to install. Not ideal but maybe a good enough replacement when my Maxxair ones brittle-out! I've got hairline cracks and have repaired them with clear flexseal tape. All of my screws are cushioned as well with rubber washers and NOT torqued too tight. As far as cleaning, I'm thrilled with being able to open the windows in my Oliver and clean from the inside! Makes it so much easier than when I had to take them off of my Casita due to lack of non opening windows!

If anyone is looking for vents.. There's a guy on the Fiberglassrv forum who has 3d printed a vent in his own design. If you private message me, I can dig that email/ info up and share. They work slightly different as they slide into the track and are not permanently affixed like the Maxxair but they come in three colors.. black, white and smoke. I certainly knew the vents were the first thing I was removing before I sold my Casita! But ~ I will say that eventually mine will need replaced with this alternative, as the Maxx do get brittle. I have a couple hairline cracks already!

I just received my estimate for items to be worked on. Apparently, they still do the water pickup mod..but it's pricey at $400. Might necessitate a local plumber instead of a roadtrip. Not exactly the 'warm and fuzzies' since this is a serious design flaw of the fresh water tank.

I was in love since the day I saw one in person about five or six years ago. I was content with my Casita for ten years and never expected to ever own an Oliver. Sadly, we too had a hard time swallowing the cost as it dipped heavily into our retirement savings. The thing that sold my husband was the resale values of fiberglass and finding one close to home eventually sold us. We were lucky! I expect this to be my last travel trailer but I feel confident we can recoup much of our investment if something springs up. Good luck !

Yes, I've tried that. Don't really like my fridge being much out of level. I've read you can be up to 6 degrees off on an absorption fridge but I find it a design flaw of this trailer and would really just like it repaired. Sensor is basically useless with it until you realize 38% means empty.

That would be most unfortunate as it's one of the main problems I have with my ILOVHER. Not being able to utilize 10 or more gallons of water in a 32 gallon tank while boondocking is inconvenient and a pain to do multiple times during even the short trips! Major design flaw. I started my service ticket and am patiently waiting a response.

Exactly the reason it's on there 🐶

Hi All, I've been thinking about a visit to Hohenwald for service/potential upgrades on ILOVHER and wanted to know (prior to starting a service ticket) what your experiences have been with planning a visit. It's a long haul for me and I really don't know anything about how they handle service to used Ollies but have a number of questions: 1. Where do you stay when your trailer is being worked on? I saw in a thread that there may be room on their lot for service customers but if they have your unit for a few days, is there any place to stay close by to possibly tent camp? 2. What things are included in the general service and is it worth the price? Not sure if I should just contract someone local for brakes, etc. I know they would answer my questions readily but I thought I'd ask anyway. 3. Is there a long wait time for service appointments? 4. Have you been happy with the service you received? I really have a short list of items I'd like addressed (definitely the fresh water pickup) but I feel a visit with the infamous tour might be enjoyable! Regards..

I too do not drink from the fresh water tank and bring my own. My experience with different water sources (aside from plastic taste) is that most campground water tastes terrible! Mineral content and rust come to mind. At the NF campground I managed the water was tested every day for public safety however it always had a tinge of yellow from the two sixty year old 50K gallon tanks and wasn't the best tasting. This begs the question about cleaning out the fresh water tank. Obviously, sediment settles. How on earth is one to clean the bottom of the Oliver tank? I have first hand experience with a clogged fresh water outlet. The black gunky grime/algae from the stagnant water clogged the outlet, the bathroom faucet and the pre-filter! I used a combination of bleach first then vinegar to get things rolling again...but I hate the idea that there is rust and sand sitting flat against the bottom of the tank. On my Casita, I added a waterproof marine deck plate that allowed me to completely wipe out and clean the tank at the end of a season. There was ALWAYS a film of rust no matter what sources or pre-water filtration I used attached to my fill hose. I hope that the tank in the Oliver doesn't ever need replacing due to a build up of sediment. I can't even fathom how it would be done. I will continue to do a fresh water vinegar treatment every year and try not to lie awake at night about sediment. I don't intend to ever drink out of the tank unless I'm dying from thirst.

I didn't want to cut and have the drill twist up into the insulation so I just peeled it back to find the center and used some spray adhesive to put it back when the job was completed.

Landrover's mod has been high on my mod list since the day I brought ILOVHER home. Imitation is a genuine form of flattery they say! I have a sewer clean out near my driveway and I really wanted to be able to run grey into it while keeping the door shut and locked. I have a few tools/cords that I don't want to walk off. Keeping the door open while raining also seems counterintuitive. I admit to showering in the trailer and driveway camp as we get frequent power outages here. Something that I was worried about was exact measuring. I came up with an idea to use a pencil eraser super glued to the middle of the handle. I added bit of chalk line chalk to hit the inside of the door to find center. I'm happy to say it worked well! Attached are the photos of my progress. I'm a girl and these kind of things freak me out a little but I'm happy to say everything worked out perfect! I used butyl tape around the marine fitting and stainless screws and nylocks nuts. I decided to paint the handle silver as well since the shortening and grinding of the handle (with a Dremel) made it look ugly. I'm really pleased with this mod.. THANK You Landrover!

I hate mine too but I'm lucky that my counters are more ivory so it's not as distracting. Someone here recently painted theirs with Krylon, but it looked to be quite the job. The frames look easy but not the interior parts. I also read that total replacement is somewhere in the $500 to $700 range. Too expensive for my taste. Let us know John if you ever tackle it; if anyone can do it, it's you!

I did the same thing with my Casita (OCD) by keeping a spreadsheet of what I was actually spending on my hobby. I came to be known locally (our tiny OH rally) as the 'Mod Queen' I didn't do it for notoriety but to substantiate my selling price if I were to sell. It worked well in my sale but also allowed me to share all I learned by logging websites, videos and sources to share with others. I haven't done it with the ILOVHER because I'm fairly sure this is will be my forever trailer!

I ordered a replacement plate. $17 with shipping is a bit steep for something that apparently doesn't last very long. The negative reviews on Amazon say the plate has a very short life expectancy...but I drank the kool aid and I'm pleased. Easy install. Hopefully, it won't crack again.

We bought this generator too from Sam's Club back in early April for the $399 price. We do have the MicroAir Easystart. We figured out that the water heater draws 1200 watts so we had to shut that off before starting the A/C. We bought the grounding plug and so far it exceeds our expectations as well in terms of low decibel sound and power.

I decided to reinforce the fridge hinge with the LHC reinforcement bracket. Since my Dometic is the same primary design as the one that was in my Casita, I know the benefit of strengthening that part of the door. I've know a couple owners who have broken their door and Dometic's prices for parts is astronomical! I added the button guard in addition. As far as the fridge front, I added a metal decorative sticker to the front panel for aethetics and to try to keep the front from fingerprints. I just didn't like the black. I don't recommend the film I bought as it was a bear to install without a few bubbles and another person to help!

I have extensive experience with Krylon from my days with my Casita. I think the ILOVHER will probably end up with a new quality weatherproof cover that will open a bit farther. Thanks for your input!