Steve Morris

Especially when combined with the Level Mate Pro! I used the BAL leveler on our Hiker trailer, but it was a PITA to use. So I got an Anderson leveler, which worked great. If we wanted the trailer crossways on a site, we'd just rotate it by hand, and shove it onto the Anderson leveler until level. So when I ordered the Oliver, a new set was among the first things I ordered. I too have several of the Harbor Freight chocks.

I’d read all of the books remotely related to Justified. Now that there’s a new series, it is apparently very roughly based on City Primeval. Raylan isn’t in the book at all. The FX folks just took another Elmore Leonard book and dropped Raylan in as the main character. It’ll be interesting. I’ve read about a dozen Elmore Leonard books over the years, and every one has been thoroughly enjoyable. @SeaDawgWe have AT&T, but our daughter has Hulu, so we borrow it now and then. 😉

I believe Hulu has a TV series from the books. The second season is on now. We haven't watched yet, but it is on our list. He is the same author that wrote the Hoyt/Dewell books that were the basis for the Big Sky TV show. I just finished up another Elmore Leonard book (Kindle, not audio)

We’ve had two C-Gear Original Sand-Free Mats since 2017 (10x10) and 2019 (8x11) in orange/teal. The square one fits perfectly in our six-sided CLAM enclosure. They worked great in the teardrop, where it is too east to transfer dirt and grass inside. Now they’re perfect for the Oliver. They dry fast, fold relatively small, and work as advertised. They do tend to gum up with clay mud, but a good hosing off at home easily cleans them. I don’t know if it is still the case, as I don’t see it on their web site, but both of ours were made in the USA. The company started out making landing mats for military helicopters is sandy locations.

Yep, you'd added those in the thread where I was asking about support. I don't have top tubes, but could go to the seat posts. I'll take a couple of straps with me in case I need to add more support. Thanks!

Loaded up and ready to go!

Two of them just bought Escape trailers, and another has a Scamp from one of the new Escape owners. So fiberglass trailers are well represented. (Mostly older folks, so very few teardrops any more.)

We initially got a Brita water filter, but the filtered water tasted terrible. We even tried it at home, feeding it already filtered water from our home Royal Berky, and the filter added the bad taste. Same thing with a second replacement filter from a different package. We now have four one-gallon jugs that we use for potable water. We fill them from the Royal Berky at home and transport them in the closet. We use them to fill the Brita pitcher sans filter on the countertop. When we need additional water, I use our Lifesaver Jerrycan water filter to purify campground water, water from our fresh tank, or other water supplies to refill the one gallon jugs.

Thank you, David, and thanks for the call last night. As noted above, maybe my expectations are not what's normal in an RV. If it doesn't seem right after the weekend, I'll use the sealant and PPF option to be sure to seal things up well.

Thanks Robert! As this is our first RV of any kind with AC, it may just be that I'm expecting it to be similar to our home AC. I wasn't getting any condensate running down the side, but there may be some trapped behind the seal. I'll look later today when I hook up the trailer to the Cruiser. Thanks!

Thank you, Ralph! That's very helpful. We take off in the morning for a long weekend with the Ohio Tearjerkers group. If I still have concerns when we get home, I'll pop the top and take a look. Thanks!

Later, I bump the thermostat up to 71 degrees, and now it is 70 degrees in the trailer, and 88% humidity! Outside is 75 degrees, 68% humidity, and full overcast. It’s almost like the AC sucks the humidity out while the compressor is running, holds onto it instead of sending it overboard, and then dumping the humidity back inside when the compressor shuts off. Vert confusing!

I’m still wondering if my AC is working properly. Today it is 75 degrees outside with 70% humidity and mostly cloudy. Inside the trailer it was 78 degrees and 72% humidity. I turned on the AC to medium, with the thermostat set to 68 degrees. 25 minutes later it was only down to 72 degrees and 65% humidity, with mildly cool air coming from the vents. I changed the thermostat to 60 degrees, and it finally had cold air coming out of the vents. It is now 61 degrees and 51% humidity about an hour later. Nothing has dropped from the condensate tubes, nor down the side of the trailer. It isn’t horribly humid, so I don’t know if it would, though. I’m still wondering if the fins on the condenser are blocked by the zillion tiny Linden tree flowers/leaves. They’re a good six inches deep under the tree, and the trailer is maybe 40 feet downwind. None have accumulated on top, but I had it running a lot early last week. Maybe it sucked some in? All that to ask if anyone knows how the top cover (item #10) is removed? The parts list doesn’t show any fasteners. I haven’t climbed up to look yet, wanting an idea where to look before doing so. Thanks

20 minutes later: Nope, that’s not going to work. The ratchet from the end of the two receivers to the highest solid spot on the bike rack is almost perpendicular to the movement. So while the ratchet is very tight, it didn’t reduce up/down movement at all. Back to the ratchet to the spare tire mount. Now that I know there’s a solid plate inside, I cranked the ratchet tight, and it took up all the slack. And there’s enough stretch in the webbing to allow a bit of downward movement. I think I’ll try that on Thursday. Smooth interstate almost all the way, so it shouldn’t be unduly stressed, and I’ll check often. thanks, @John E Davies

Thanks, John. I hadn’t considered hull movement in relation to the frame. I figured those rubber mount pads were pretty stiff, and the whole thing solidly mounted. Thinking about it, that would transfer a lot of twisting stress to the hulls. I do have a snubber of sorts. It is a motorcycle strap that has an internal stretching component and adjustable strap. Probably. It enough tension, though. I like the idea of the eyes on the frame extension. That should be easily doable. I found the rings on Amazon by searching for “5/8 eye nut” and then limiting my choices to stainless steel and next day delivery (we’re heading out again Thursday morning.) If I could have waited I’d have gone with a less expensive option. Thanks!

Yes, sir. Thank you. That looks like a substantial support.

I know that some of you have had the basement back wall out. And I've looked at those, but can't see deep enough. What, if any, support backs up the spare tire mounting 5/8" threaded rod? I'm using a ratchet strap to take the slop out of the bicycle rack system, and if there's only a big washer behind the wall, I don't want to pull the whole thing through!! I looked at the limited photos I was allowed to take from our plant tour, but didn't have this area of the outer lower hull. I'm hoping that there's a support welded to the frame, or at the very least, a large plate embedded in the fiberglass. Thanks! NOTE: For actual use, I will have a threaded carabiner in place of the steel hook to avoid it coming off on a rough road.

I have just been collecting data from various post on here and the Facebook groups. I haven't posted anything yet. I think I first posted last years list around February. I only have 14 spots so far.

My preliminary 2024 site list has been update! 🙂

I thought I posted this reply earlier, but it must not have made it due to poor service. I think you'll find the answer by clicking on the little people icon that shows who responded. Seems a mischievous Mississippian clicked every poll option possible. 😉

This is what the old 2" receivers looked like? Wow, that's a nice setup! The tube on the right is the current receiver, with a pair of U-bolts through the bumper. (Ignore the sleeve on the left. That was an earlier concept.)

Nope! And I've searched the forum and Facebook group for any Oliver supplied rack failure, and found zero results. That's why I was careful to say "If there's any weak link." I don't think there is, but if so, that's where it seems likely to occur. @Geronimo John Even simpler would be to take a ratchet strap from the spare tire ring nut around the outermost point on the deployed rack. Then take up all the slack in the system. This would facilitate folding the rack up without having to remove the extra support. Neither of our bikes have top tubes, so your design would have to go around the seat post if I went with something similar. Cool idea! My license plate relocation kit arrived early, and I just installed it. I could remove the flip-down license bracket from the spare tire cover for even easier access. BTW, the relocation kit is pretty slick, working in the up or down position, and works even with the EZ Pull handle. Now to rig up a 4-pin harness on the trailer to use the included lights. (One thing I overlooked is that I use the rack on the Cruiser, too. I'll have the wrong plate showing unless I swap them with each use. 🤷‍♂️ )

@John E Davies Thanks for the input. I’ve had Raingler ceiling nets in my Outback and 4Runner, so I’m familiar with the excellent quality. (KAON shelf in the LC.) On the bike rack I’m using four heavy duty Wrap-It brand straps around the rack and wheels. Plus four of 1UP’s skewer style locks through the wheels. So as long as the rack stays attached to the trailer, the bikes will be attached as well. I have a 1UP license relocation kit arriving tomorrow. @MAX Burner Art, my 1-1/4” rack is rated at 150 pounds by Oliver, so I’m three pounds over according to the specs. The 2” Reese receiver that I mounted instead of the OEM receiver is rated at 350 pound tongue weight. If there’s any weak link in the system, I think it is where the optional rack is inserted into the two square tubes bolted to the frame. Oliver has to machine these tubes to get them to fit inside the fixed tubes, possibly creating a stress riser. I’ll keep a close watch on this (as well as the whole shebang) and replace with steel if needed.

I forgot to take photos with the bikes on the rack. Here it is empty. The bikes seemed very solid watching on the rear view camera.

Over the years, I've had too many USB style outlets fail, and of course USB specs change (now going to USB-C as standard.) So I use the simple 12V cigarette outlet, albeit a good quality one from Blue Sea, and then stick whatever style adapter needed into that. My external 12V outlets will be Andersen Power Pole style.