Dean and Mary

I hope to be at that point within a year or less.

I see the source of the confusion now. There are only two water inlets on the OTT-2025 vs three inlets on my OTT-2022, and the rear inlet and city water inlet are actually the same connection. As I mentioned earlier, the fresh water inlet and rear inlet are not the same. The attached diagram from the OTT 2025 manual illustrates this more clearly, showing that the rear inlet and city water inlet are one and the same.

Mossemi, Providing the electronic manual for the OTT-2025 should help. From that manual, the rear inlet appears to be in the same location has my OTT-2022 model. Cut and pasted from the OTT-2025 manual.

You may want to hear from an owner with a 2025 model, or a model year closer to yours. On my 2022 unit, the winterizing inlet is clearly located at the rear of the trailer near the bumper, as shown in the photo.

Here are two images showing those three inlets. (my camper needs a good cleaning) I hope this has helped.

No No, they are not the same inlet. The port that connects to the jug is located on the curb side at the very rear of the trailer, next to the bumper. The fresh water inlet is on the rear street side of the trailer, and on my unit both ports on that side of trailer are clearly labeled (fresh water and city water). When we purchased our used 2022 model earlier this year, I found the factory valve configuration diagram to be incomplete and somewhat confusing. After tracing the plumbing and verifying the valve functions, I expanded the diagram and created a revised version, which I’ve attached. In my opinion, it provides a much clearer explanation of the system and makes it easier to understand the various valve configurations.

The A/C upgrade is on our list for next spring. Before we purchase anything or begin the installation, I'll go back and review the forum discussions and your post to refresh my memory. I may reach out with a few questions once we get closer to the project.

John, that’s a lot of great information. Thanks for sharing the details. This will most likely be my next DIY project. I’ve done quite a bit of reading on the forum about how to achieve the best results, and I have a Little Giant scaffold that should make the job easier, or at least safer.

Hi Patriot, Your trailer looks great, and I wish I lived close enough to have CGI do some work on mine. I really like your hangar, and I have enough space on our mountain property to potentially build something similar. Would you mind sharing the make, model, and dimensions of your hangar? Thanks, Dean

Wish we could have attended. We'll do our best to tune in for the morning coffee livestream.

I enjoy projects like this, but like any major undertaking, they come with their share of frustrations. One of the biggest challenges is having to be a contortionist to route wires in such a confined space. Being in my 70s certainly doesn't make that task any easier. Another familiar frustration is getting to a point where I realize I need one more trip to the hardware store for that specific screw, bolt, or bracket needed to finish a portion of the job. Most of my electrical components are ordered online because the big-box stores carry very little that is suitable for RV electrical systems. That often means putting the project on hold while I wait for the correct parts to arrive before I can continue. Despite those challenges, seeing the system come together and knowing it was done correctly makes the effort worthwhile.

John, Thanks for sharing that your electrical upgrade took nearly 200 hours. When my project is complete, I suspect I'll be much closer to that number than to 100 hours, especially when I factor in the time spent researching products, sourcing all the required components, and figuring out the best installation methods within the limited space available in our camper. This type of upgrade is a significant undertaking, particularly when you're first removing and correcting a poorly executed installation left behind by a previous owner who hired out a smaller upgrade. I'll save those details for another post. You're also absolutely right about how much prices have increased over the past several years. My roughly $5,000 upgrade does not include batteries, as my trailer already came from the factory with 640Ah of Lithionics lithium batteries. It's hard to believe, but I've spent nearly $1,000 on cables, fuse holders, fuses, mounting boards, and other miscellaneous hardware alone. For example, a quality Class T fuse from a reputable manufacturer costs around $65, and of course I needed a spare, for a total of two. That brings me back to the original topic of allowing members to list used or surplus parts for sale on the forum. During this project, I've removed a number of fully functional components that could be valuable to other owners looking to replace failed equipment or complete their own upgrades. Providing a marketplace for these parts could help fellow owners save money while keeping quality equipment in service.

I am still in the process of completing my full Victron upgrade, which has taken more time than expected. Most of the delays have been due to limited installation space and having to wait for additional, unforeseen materials such as wire, wire mesh, lugs, connectors, bolts, screws ... John made several excellent points about the simplicity of having a single display in a Victron-based system. While a Victron upgrade is a very robust and capable solution, it does require configuration and programming of the various components. If the installation is performed by a professional, the programming is typically included as part of the process. Once everything is set up correctly, the system is actually quite straightforward to operate, especially considering the level of capability and functionality provided by such a comprehensive upgrade. At least that is what I hope to find once this project is complete. One display instead of multiple apps is one of my goals in this upgrade. I've been keeping track of nearly all of the project expenses in a spreadsheet, and I'm now over $5,000 invested and more than 100 hours into the installation. Once everything is finished, I'll start a new thread with a complete write-up and details of the upgrade.

We placed rug gripper pads under the cushions, but they still slide off. We're going to try a different brand and hope we have better luck.

That is a splice connector, specifically a Wago brand lever nut splice connector. Considered a good easy to use connector joining two or more wires together.

No worries at all! Honestly, a loose battery connection is one of those things that's so simple it often gets overlooked. We've all chased complicated problems only to find out it was something basic in the end. I'm just glad you found the issue and got it sorted out. You definitely didn't waste my time. Troubleshooting is just a process of eliminating possibilities until the culprit shows itself. Great news that you're back up and running. Thanks for letting us know what the fix was!

Thanks Snackchaser, that makes sense.

Thanks for the detailed response. I agree—the wiring is a mess, and that’s exactly why I’m redoing all of it. I did not know about the failure rate of the Optifuse. I’m also curious about the maximum of three wires on a lug, and why there are two connections ahead of the Optifuse. For my upgrade, I’ll be using the Victron Energy Lynx Distributor with ANL fuses.

Imelda, Thanks for the update, and I’m glad you’re able to get home with things as they are. Just a quick reminder—the jacks don’t receive their power from the converter, but more of a direct connection from the batteries through the 60 amp Optifuse shown in my above image.

jd, thanks for sharing the photo of your original 12‑volt distribution. It’s definitely cleaner than what my original setup looks like. I’ve attached a photo of mine—minus the 8‑gauge input wire. I’m in the middle of replacing everything and wanted a picture before I completely disassemble it. On my install, there are two wires on the input side of the Optifuse (not counting the main 8‑gauge battery feed that’s been removed). I haven’t traced them yet, but I suspect one may be for the breakaway switch. I don’t want to hijack the thread until the main issue is resolved, but identifying these wires would save me some time. I know that the heavy red wire on the output side goes to the converter and the three jack fuses are also easily identified, but I have not traced the others out. As for troubleshooting the thread creators main problem, a ground can also be found on the inverter chassis for your voltmeter. I hope all is going well and solution has been found. Dean

Topgun2: Maybe in the future we’d be interested in organizing a regional rally, but right now life is just too busy—and we still feel a bit too new to the Oliver group. Thanks for sharing the information.

Yes, I agree—the VHB tape has excellent shear and tensile strength, and on some materials it can even be peeled away slowly when no longer needed, which makes it an even better choice.

I also like using 3M 4950 VHB tape for mounting to fiberglass. I tested several products and ended up preferring the tape. I used it to mount the solar panels on the roof of our Bigfoot camper, and it’s held strong for 18 years so far. I’ve been following your posts—and others—on the A/C upgrade and plan to tackle mine next spring. Right now, I’m leaning toward the Furrion Chill Cube, but I’ll keep researching over the winter and make a final decision in the spring. I may have questions for you then.

Our 2022 is new to us this year, and I shared the same initial confusion when looking at the water‑valve diagram. While it’s a great feature to have the valve positions shown based on the function you want, I also wanted to understand the actual start and end points of each line. So, I enhanced the diagram and placed a laminated copy under the bed next to the water pump. Below is that updated drawing. Please let me know if you spot any errors in it.

Wow, I’m really sorry this happened. I’ve heard of similar issues with other trailer brands when there’s little or no effective overflow outlet. That’s why most trailers are filled using a flex‑hose insert—to let air escape properly. With the direct connection on our trailers, it’s difficult to manually fill at the inlet and allow that air to escape. In your case, it sounds like the overflow tube may have been restricted, or the incoming water volume and pressure simply exceeded what the overflow tube could handle. Thanks for sharing this experience. And again, I’m sorry you had to deal with it.